[BurnedB]

for me it was hard to reliaze that no one hardly removes taper fit tie rod ends and balljoints like i do, realized it wehn i got so many funny looks from other friends when taking the front end apart on my trucks, whenvere i try to explain how i do it nobody comprehends what i am saying to do, or just dont believe it works.

best way about my method is that it does NOT damage the tie rod boot, or the acually ball and socket itself, and it does not mar the threads on the stud that you are tyring to get out. no special tools required either
jsut a little FYI for guys who dont know it

just remove the cotter pin and nut and hammer away. BIG ballpeen or mini sledge works best. what also works is ratting the side where i say to hit wit ha big air ahmmer with a blunt nose bit on it, but not everybody has a air hammer strong enough to do it, plus this works really good on the trail.

and before anyone is skeptical of it working, i have not had it not work on me once, working on 1 ton trucks, vans, and semi's in the rust belt of chicago

just hit where the pics say to and you will say a ton of time, and not F the parts up with the pickle fork since alot of times you are not replcaing the part you are removing/

 

[GKR]

Also works well to use two hammers at the same time on opposing sides. Pops em loose nice and quick.:thumbup

 

[BeastBronk]

I will try this! Is there any slight chance of damaging anything using this method?

 

[magnumpi]

i do this all the time at work on dump trucks, straight trucks, semis, etc. Works great. I have never damaged anything, just make sure you have good aim. Bigger hammer the better.

 

[Late Model Man]

The only problem is sometimes you don't have the room for a big hammer swing. I tried this method when I did my balljoints and it worked great for the tie rods but I guess I didnt have a heavy enough hammer....

 

[stan the man]

So you're saying that if you hit the knuckle near the ball joints, it will force them out?

 

[Fireguy50]

I tried it once, but didn't hit it hard enough. I had this fear of breaking something like weak old cast iron pipe fittings :smash

 

[Bronco4Life]

i do this all the time at work on dump trucks, straight trucks, semis, etc. Works great. I have never damaged anything, just make sure you have good aim. Bigger hammer the better.

So you're saying that if you hit the knuckle near the ball joints, it will force them out?

Yep, I was taught the same thing. Especially nice when you're working on tri-axles and such and you've got the room for a nice 3 pound sledge.

Our mechanic was blabbering something about the shock causes the metal to deform by thousandths of an inch for a split second, and the shockwave breaks any corrosion free resulting in the tie rod or whatever dropping right out.

I only ever half pay attention to the guy either way, so it was something along those lines, but it's worked EVERY single time for me on big trucks, all the way to my Bronco and F250.

 

[magnumpi]

So you're saying that if you hit the knuckle near the ball joints, it will force them out?

it more or less "shocks" them loose. Its kinda like using a really slow air hammer....similar principle

but yeah, its worked every time for me too. I usually put a little PB on the tie rods first, just because

 

[BeastBronk]

it more or less "shocks" them loose. Its kinda like using a really slow air hammer....similar principle

but yeah, its worked every time for me too. I usually put a little PB on the tie rods first, just because

PB? translate for a noob?

 

[rightofway]

i thought everyone knew this, i like to leave the nut on a turn or two and use a big drilling hammer. turn back to truck and swing.

PB? translate for a noob?

Aerokroil:thumbup

 

[Fireguy50]

PB? translate for a noob?

 

[magnumpi]

yeah....i forget to translate sometimes. Kroil is also awesome stuff as well