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Discussion Starter #1
Is there a way to tell which transfer case, transmission, etc. my model has? It the Haynes manual they list all of them ever available from 80-96, and I want to know what I am working on. Thanks.
 

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The door tag will tell you and the transfer case has a tag and stamp in the casting. Axles have an axle tag but anything can be changed. What year is your Bronco?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The door tag will tell you and the transfer case and axles have an axle tag. What year is your Bronco?
It's a 91 XLT. I just added that info to my profile. Thanks for the information.

i guess you missed the stickies at the top of the page?
Sorry, I just started looking through all of that stuff, but since this forum said it was for Noobie, I thought it would be ok to post in here a question.
 

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Yours should have a Borg Warner 1356 with a 2.69:1 low range ratio. If you have an automatic then you are running an E40D. If you have a manual then it's an MSOD or an MSOD-HD unless a previous owner made some drivetrain swaps
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I'm pretty sure the '91's could have a C6 as well. If you've got the overdrive switch to the right and down of the steering wheel you've got the E4OD, if not you've got the C6. Assuming you have a slushbox.
It does have a switch for overdrive. What is a slushbox? Sorry, this is literally the first time I have ever A. owned a vehicle that is not a small passenger car, and B. the first vehicle I have had any interest in learning how to work on myself.
 

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a slushbox is slang for an automatic transmission, c6 are 3 speeds, e4od are 3 speeds with an overdrive, thus the control button
 

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YO!
Welcome!
I made a mistake 15 years ago by telling someone to use the Driver's side label to ID their Rear Differential (axle, pumpkin type, etc.); turned out that a previous owner had swapped a Dana 60 in place of the stock 8.8
so... a run down;

TRANSMISSION, Automatic
Identification;
E4OD have 20 pan bolts; P-R-N-D-2-1 shifter pattern - Indicator pic by Chris A @ http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/media/117390

AOD have 14 pan bolts, see diagram & pic; P-R-N-(D)-D-1 shifter pattern, note, OD is actually a (D) - Indicator pic by trigger @ http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v663/RampageFSJ/a4-1.jpg

C6 have 17 pan bolts, see diagram & pic; P-R-N-D-2-1, shifter pattern - Indicator pic by miesk5 @ http://www.broncolinks.com/gallery_images/C6ShiftIndicatorpic.JPG

You can measure the transmission fluid pan to determine which transmission you have if identification information is not available. A 4R70W transmission pan has an overall length of just under 15 inches, while an E4OD pan is much larger, measuring about 20 inches in overall length.-
But a visual depiction is better!
C 6, AOD E4OD, 4R Pan Identification & Driver Side pic
Source: by technicalvideos.com

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TRANSFER CASE;
Borg Warner Identification; "...The model number is cast into the rear housing, and sometimes stamped into an ID tag on a tailhousing bolt. This is a 93 EB Bronco1356 ESOF..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
Transfer case ID; NP203, 205, 208, BW 1345, 1350 & 1356
Source:http://ww.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/transfer_case_replacements_and_parts/cross_reference_chart.html


Difference/Measurements, 1356 vs, NEW PROCESS 205 in a 94
Source: by Damon H (Plug Ugly) at FSB

NEW PROCESS 203 Exterior Parts Diagrams; Shifter Assembly, Mounts, Transmission Adapter, etc.
Source: by Indybronco

208 Parts Break-Out Diagram
Source: by transtarindustries.com

Atlas 4 Speed pics in a 96
Source: by GKR (Greg R) at SuperMotors.net

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ENGINE
5.0 vs. 5.8 (EFI) Identification
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at FSB via web.archive


5.8 Parts Break-Out Diagram, External
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net


5.0 Parts Break-Out Diagram, External
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net

of course; it could have 460 in htere..etc..
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I have info on other engine sizes and type in my site under ENGINE, V8 or six cylider, and Diesel (yep.. we have a bunch of motivated folks here!
As well as other components/systems

DIFFERENTIAL;
8.8 Information, History, ID, pics, etc.; "...8.8” rear’s have a ten bolt inspection plate on the back that’s about 10” from the center of the top bolt to the bottom bolt center..."
Source: by Kenneth C at http://www.badshoeproductions.com/rear.html
See 9" & 10.25"; as well as Dana 44
for Dana 60, 12 bolt pattern see http://www.truckporn.com/tech/axle-guide/images/identification/dana6050.jpg

Gear Ratio Determination; "...remove the differential cover or the 3rd member and count the number of teeth on the gears. Unfortunately, this can get messy. One somewhat easy yet very reliable way is to jack up the wheels, disconnect the driveshaft, rotate one wheel, and count how many revolutions the pinion yoke/flange makes. If you turn one tire & the other one either stays still while the pinion rotates, or the other one rotates backward while the pinion stays still, or something in between, then you've got an open diff or a very weak LSD (like a Trac-Lok with too many miles on it). In this case, you need to secure one wheel (perhaps by lowering the tire onto the ground), then you can figure your gear ratio by rotating the airborne tire TWO full rotations and counting the number of times the pinion rotates. 3.73 turns means 3.73 gears. If you only rotate the tire once, then 1.865 turns means 3.73 gears. If you turn one tire & the other one turns the same number of turns in the same direction, then you've got a good LSD or locker. In this case, you can just rotate the tires ONE full rotation and figure your gear ratio by counting the number of times your pinion rotates. 3.73 turns means 3.73 gears..." Read More
Source: by Obi-Wan at jedi.com [/URL
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[URL="http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=219542"]Door Jamb Label (Data Plate, also referred to as the Patent Plate & the Warranty Plate)
[URL="http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=219542"]As an example, a pic for a 94
Source: by Adrianspeeder (The OJ Special, The Lariat, The Bronco) at SuperMotors.net
[/URL]
from this Plate; you could assume you have a rear diff code of 19 installed in his Bronco;
Basing on this;
Bronco, Rear from 85 & 90 Owner's Manuals; "Note, I'll add that the axle code for some years (Maybe all ) adds a 2 after the limited slip code if the front is also limited slip. So the code "H9" is a 3.55:1 limited slip rear axle only. "H92" would be a 3.55:1 limited slip on both axles. by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong)"
Source: by Ford & Helm via Keith L (TTB Blows, Bling-Bling) at homestead.com via web.archive.org

CODE 19 = 3.55 ratio
and that would be for a Ford 8.8 diff
Bronco & F Series Differential, Front & Rear Brands in 91-93
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net


Also, VIN Decoder Chart for 81-86 & 87-96 Bronco & Ford Trucks BEST!
Source: by lmctruck.com


Build Sheet Information (Ford 999 Report); Fords build sheet reply letter w/original build date, optional equipt., axle ratio, paint color, etc. & Build Sheet; Example of an 85
Source: by equivalent (Beetlejuice) at SuperMotors.net


Build Sheet Information (Ford 999 Report); Helms charges $17.00 for a "Basic" Sheet and $48.00 for a "Deluxe" sheet. Helms is Ford's Official Publisher for Ford EVTMs, Owner Manuals, Wiring Diagrams, etc. Basic Build Sheet Item# 39415 Vehicle build sheets are available for 1967 and newer cars and trucks up to F550 and 2002 and newer F650-750. Using Ford Motor Company internal databases, each build sheet is personalized and drafted on Ford stationery signed by Ms. Elena Ford. These letters are a great addition to any car enthusiast's collection. A basic build sheet will detail your vehicle's "as built" options: Model year •Manufacturing plant name and location; Body style; Build date; Engine size; Consecutive unit serial number; Transmission description; Rear axle ratio and description (locking or non-locking); Tire size; Exterior paint color and code; Interior trim color and code; Interior options; Any other option information available. You must enter in the VIN number of the vehicle you want a build sheet for on the next screen. Requests for vehicles older than 1990 may take up to 6 weeks. Price: $17.00; Deluxe Build Sheet Item# 39416, Vehicle build sheets are available for 1967 and newer cars and trucks up to F550 and 2002 and newer F650-750. Using Ford Motor Company internal databases, each build sheet is personalized and drafted on Ford stationery signed by Ms. Elena Ford. These letters are a great addition to any car enthusiast's collection. In addition to the basic build sheet, the deluxe build sheet will include all available production figures. You must enter in the VIN number of the vehicle you want a build sheet for on the next screen. Requests for vehicles older than 1990 may take up to 6 weeks. Price: $46.00; Item is shipped from manufacturer and may take additional time for delivery. Please allow 2-3 weeks for delivery."
Source: by Helms at shopfordgear.com
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Tranny Code from Door Jamb Label;
See Code Information by Type, Vehicle, Engine, Ratios, Fluid, Shift Indicator Pattern, Code, Pan
Source: by Adrianspeeder

So, Trans code= E, that is an E4OD based on Adrian's Listing and Pan ID
(I have PAN ID info LINKS in my site under Transmission, Auto, E4OD and da 4R..
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Also see my site for the PAINT CODE from the jamb label; such as,
Paint Color Code Location, Bronco, 85-96; "...1985 and Newer is on the driver door. There will be a white sticker. Towards the bottom of the sticker in the left hand corner it will say paint. This is decieving because underneath of the word paint is the body style code. What you want is the 2 digits or letters above the word paint..."
Source: by levineautoparts.com

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what else?.. to be continued...
 

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91 Bronco's were not available with a c6 but if you're not the original owner there can be a number of drivetrain swaps and a c6 would definately bolt up. Just because it has the overdrive switch doesn't mean it still has an overdrive transmission so miesk5's chart is a good starting point for identification purposes
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Wow, lot's of info! I think I know you from somewhere else there miesk5, I recognize the YO! Thanks guys.
 

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Sorry, I just started looking through all of that stuff, but since this forum said it was for Noobie, I thought it would be ok to post in here a question.
Its not a problem. A lot of new guys always ask questions like these, then they'll see them at the top of the page, and all of their questions are usually answered when they read through them.:thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Is there a place where I can see pictures of what's what stock? The Haynes manual has a picture of the engine compartment with some things labeled, but it is a carburetored motor, not fuel injected. I am in the process of messing with this Bronco, I replaced the alternator (my first actual experience with doing anything automotive wise, and it didn't go simple either one of the plugs melted) and I am having some other issues that I need to work on. The engine is running hot, so I am going to flush the radiator and check the thermostat. As I am going through the motor some stuff looks very warn out. Specifically on the passenger side of the engine compartment there is a can with a paper-like tube coming out of it. The tube is all beat to hell and dead, I can't tell if it was supposed to go anywhere or what. I will post some pictures. Also, what do you guys think about fuel additive injector cleaners, like Lucas?
 

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Is there a place where I can see pictures of what's what stock? The Haynes manual has a picture of the engine compartment with some things labeled, but it is a carburetored motor, not fuel injected. I am in the process of messing with this Bronco, I replaced the alternator (my first actual experience with doing anything automotive wise, and it didn't go simple either one of the plugs melted) and I am having some other issues that I need to work on. The engine is running hot, so I am going to flush the radiator and check the thermostat. As I am going through the motor some stuff looks very warn out. Specifically on the passenger side of the engine compartment there is a can with a paper-like tube coming out of it. The tube is all beat to hell and dead, I can't tell if it was supposed to go anywhere or what. I will post some pictures. Also, what do you guys think about fuel additive injector cleaners, like Lucas?
Does it have a fan shroud? also check the fan clutch, if it spins in either direction with very little resistance the fan clutch is probably worn out.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Does it have a fan shroud? also check the fan clutch, if it spins in either direction with very little resistance the fan clutch is probably worn out.
I don't think it does, if I remember correctly there is nothing around the fan. I'll check the fan clutch (if I can figure out where it is)
 

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the best thing for you to do is. take tons of pictures of what you need to know what is what, and put them on here so we can tell you what them are. your year motor should be EFI, and your saying that it is not? somebody must of swapped it, or converted it to carb.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
the best thing for you to do is. take tons of pictures of what you need to know what is what, and put them on here so we can tell you what them are. your year motor should be EFI, and your saying that it is not? somebody must of swapped it, or converted it to carb.
It is EFI, what I was saying is that the picture of the engine in the Haynes manual is of a carburetor model, sorry if I wasn't clear. I'll take some pictures and post them up tonight. Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
OK, got home yesterday to see what codes it was giving. I did the KOEO test and it gave a 1 1 for current and a 3 3 for memory. SO I surmised from www.fordfuelinjection.com/ that I need to figure out what is going on with my EGR valve/sensor. Looks pretty torn up, but I will do the testing as outlined in the Haynes manual.

On to my previous question about broken things that I can see. These pictures are on the left hand side of the engine bay. There is a coffee can looking thing with a black and a red wire (at least it looks like a wire, might be a hose) coming out of it and they both head into the firewall. The red one is cut, it looks like it was deliberately cut as there is no wear on it. Inside is no wire, which leads me to think it might be a hose of some sort.





The other thing that I can see that is broken is also on the left hand side of the engine bay, it is a paper looking tube of some sort, it isn't connected to anything. I don't know if it needs to be connected to anything, or if it is just an exhaust of some sort.




These are in the engine bay next to the firewall, look really worn. Do they need to be replaced?




Thanks in advance for everything.
 

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Wow, lot's of info! I think I know you from somewhere else there miesk5, I recognize the YO! Thanks guys.
Yep, we have met on-line; I helped ya out w/spare tire carrier info in another Message Board
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Some answers... or guesses since I'm tired and may mess-up right now;


Vacuum Reservoir (VRESER) (coffee can); it stores "excess" vacuum to prevent rapid fluctuations and sudden drops in a vacuum signal, such as during acceleration; the RED & BLACk are vacuum lines; as shown in this "typical" diagram by Steve83;

Get those 2 lines repaired soon; this info is by SigEPBlue here;
"...Vacuum Line (Hose) Sourcing; "...They sell hard plastic line at most parts stores now, in the HELP! section with the rest of the vacuum fittings. Most places have it near the bottom of their display, and it's not too expensive. The b!tch is forming the stuff to the shape or routing you need. I've not had the time to test it, but I believe a little heat might allow you to bend 'er into the correct shape. I should email Motormite/Dorman about that...Rubber lines collapse in long runs under low pressure (high vacuum), which is why Ford and most other manufacturers went to plastic lines. They're cheap to make, and form easily. Plus with the polymer they're made from, you can color code the lines for easier assembly line installation..."

Next; to hook em up correctly; use the (VECI) Decal. on the core support or hood or air filter cover.

if gone, Get it On-Line for Free at Ford. Click "Quick Guides" in left panel; Scroll to & CLICK VECI Labels "Provides Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) and a related calibration parts list." Enter applicable info (need to know your Calibration number from your B-pillar sticker). Since Ford doesn't list our broncos in da pop-ups, use Light Truck..
They go to da Thermactor Air Bypass (TAB) Valve (Solenoid) & Thermactor Air Diverter (TAD) Valve (Solenoid)

and also gets vac from manifold

see my site for these solenoids info at http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=416
Location pic by Steve83
 

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for; paper looking tube of some sort

strange; I haven't seen that reinforced hose is years! Guessing that it is hooked up to da intake too smog pump's filter; as shown is this pic;

Filter & Silencer Location pic in an 89 5.0 (Adam Titled the air silencer as And This; and the filter as An This)
Source: by AdamDude04 & miesk5
 

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think those hard tubes were replaced with that old type air cleaner element tubing?

ok, here is waht I'm yakkin 'bout!
Manifold Heat Stove Tube
 
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