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Enjoy my
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Dang Boss is gonna have all the goodies on his truck....

You gonna follow Ryans suggestion with the 393 build?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Dang Boss is gonna have all the goodies on his truck....

You gonna follow Ryans suggestion with the 393 build?
Thats the plan, really would like a forged crank though.
 

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Go with the forged crank!

That way, down the line, you'll feel bad for not putting a blower on it. :toothless
 

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Discussion Starter #7
IIRC, I've seen people who've had issues with their customer service. Do a search over on corral.net to verify.
Brian at ADperformance.com is a very reputable. He's on a bunch of different forums.
I'd suggest checking him out.
Cool I will.
 

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Discussion Starter #8

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Discussion Starter #9
$1,599.00
Scat Competition 4340 Forged 393 Rotating Assembly!
Scat 4340 Forged Crankshaft, 3.85" Stroke, 3" or 2.75" main

Scat 4340 6.200/6.250/5.956 H-beam Connecting Rods, w/ ARP hardware

Probe Forged Flat Top Pistons, Forged 2618, Inline of TFS relief, Floating pin w/ spirlox, wrist pins

Clevite Rod and Main Bearings

File Fit Moly Ring (Manufactures Choice - Perfect Circle, Total Seal)

This kit will support 800++hp from your small block Ford!

Dished Pistons available for +$25, other brands and customization are ALWAYS available!

Compression with a 58cc head is advertised at 12.0:1, 11.1 w/ 64cc head

Dished compressions are 10.0 w/58 cc head and 9.5 w/ 64cc head

Upgrade to ARP2000 Rod Bolts for a combination capable of 1000+ hp!
 

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Unless you plan on spinning it up to 7000, or you want more than 750hp, a cast crank will be fine.

U should be able to get a good rotating assy, for under 1100$ for a 393.

There's really no sense in putting all forged internals into a stock block.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Unless you plan on spinning it up to 7000, or you want more than 750hp, a cast crank will be fine.

U should be able to get a good rotating assy, for under 1100$ for a 393.

There's really no sense in putting all forged internals into a stock block.
Seen some reports on them there cast cranks breaking and for a couple hundred extra dollars I think its good insurance, I hate doing things twice or wishing I should have. Just like I'm wishing I had gone with Dana 60 axles.

But yes I do agree with you and if we were talking large amounts of money for the difference than I'd likly go cast but since we are only talking the cost of going out to dinner and a night of drinking in regards to the cast crank and a forged crank think I'll opp for the forged.
 

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Seen some reports on them there cast cranks breaking and for a couple hundred extra dollars I think its good insurance, I hate doing things twice or wishing I should have. Just like I'm wishing I had gone with Dana 60 axles.

But yes I do agree with you and if we were talking large amounts of money for the difference than I'd likly go cast but since we are only talking the cost of going out to dinner and a night of drinking in regards to the cast crank and a forged crank think I'll opp for the forged.
Understandable.:beer
 

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Unless you plan on spinning it up to 7000, or you want more than 750hp, a cast crank will be fine.
:stupid
U should be able to get a good rotating assy, for under 1100$ for a 393.
:shrug $600 is all you need for a 393
3.85 stroke crank w/ 3.00 mains & 2.311 rods
22.00 cc Piston w/ comp 1.608
Everything else for a 393 is stock
There's really no sense in putting all forged internals into a stock block.
:stupid

1st you need quality pistons. after that you need a lot of go fast parts to need a forged crank (heads - intake - exhaust - boost)
But yes I do agree with you and if we were talking large amounts of money for the difference than I'd likly go cast but since we are only talking the cost of going out to dinner and a night of drinking in regards to the cast crank and a forged crank think I'll opp for the forged.
It's your money :drinkbud
 

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Scat 4340 Forged Crankshaft, 3.85" Stroke, 3" or 2.75" main

Scat 4340 6.200/6.250/5.956 H-beam Connecting Rods, w/ ARP hardware
You want a 3.85 stroker crank w/ Main Journal Diameter of 3.00 & Rod Journal Diameter of 2.311.
That way you can use any 5.8L rods and standard 5.8L bearings :thumbup
Probe Forged Flat Top Pistons, Forged 2618, Inline of TFS relief, Floating pin w/ spirlox, wrist pins
MAKE SURE YOU GET DISHED PISTONS!
flat top would be over 11:1 :shocked

use this web site to pick your piston dish:
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html
 

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Enjoy my
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Where are you getting the 5.8 computer from?
 

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Enjoy my
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MAF Broncos don't need to change the computer :D
His 96 would be OBD-II MAF (like me)
Yea but i thought b/c he has a 5.0 and is going to 393...:scratchhe

So only need new comp if running SD?
 

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Yea but i thought b/c he has a 5.0 and is going to 393...:scratchhe

So only need new comp if running SD?
MAF measures the air, so it will sense the extra displacement and add fuel.
not perfect, but close enough with natural asperated engines

SD has no way to measure air or sense the extra displacement, so it won't add fuel.
Ummm...why $566 for this Ford racing one and its only cast?

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_217144_-1
because it's over priced, or it has really cool stickers
 
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