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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Everyone,
1994 XLT 5.8 4x4 auto locking hubs

Symptoms:
While driving I get a humming noise from the front end (im pretty sure driver side) when I turn the steering wheel to the right. This sound is more pronounced when going over 30mph or highway speeds. When I straighten the wheel or move it left the humming noise is either gone or or barely noticable.

What are my chances that this is a bad wheel bearing? Something else? It's very hard to describe the noise, no grind and sounds almost like the droning sound a big rig makes when it brakes.

I am going to check for hub play this morning when I jack up my truck.

Thanks in advance!
 

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1990 EB, 5.0
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761 Posts
So if recall those wheel bearing should be changed about every 60,000 miles. Don't know the history of your truck, but I'd change out both front bearings and switch over to manual locking hubs while you're at it.

Oh, and please update your signature. It'll make things easier in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thanks @Siggy89 for the reply. I updated my sig :).

So you think it's the wheel bearings? I'm pretty sure when I bought the vehicle there was little to no work done on any of the suspension components.
I've so far replaced springs, shocks, pads, pivot bushings, tie rods, sway bushings.

Why manual hubs?
I may be one of the rare few that likes the convenience of the 4x4 push button lol. I replaced the transfer case motor a few months ago, the 4x4 seems to be working fine.
 

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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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Thanks Siggy for the reply. I updated my sig :).

So you think it's the wheel bearings? I'm pretty sure when I bought the vehicle there was little to no work done on any of the suspension components.
I've so far replaced springs, shocks, pads, pivot bushings, tie rods, sway bushings.

Why manual hubs?
I may be one of the rare few that likes the convenience of the 4x4 push button lol. I replaced the transfer case motor a few months ago, the 4x4 seems to be working fine.
They prefer the manual hubs because they say they're more reliable than the auto locking. I have auto locking in my 82 and for me it was actually a selling point. My 89 had manual and imo they were a p.i.t.a... But I'm also a delicate flower who doesn't wanna get out in the crud and the yuck to lock or unlock my hubs 😏

But... I'd also be looking at bearings and hubs for your hum... Hopefully @miesk5 see this and comes in with one of his super detailed troubleshooting guides.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks @BroncMom , appreciate the reply. I love the pushbutton too.

I'm hoping for a some input on whether my symptoms strongly suggest wheel bearings or something else.
 

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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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Thanks @BroncMom , appreciate the reply. I love the pushbutton too.

I'm hoping for a some input on whether my symptoms strongly suggest wheel bearings or something else.
Mine isn't push button 🙁 it's floor shifter, but is auto locking...in it's infancy...
Vehicle Car Plant Window Motor vehicle

I'm sure once miesk sees this he'll have some great info to help you out to pinpoint it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Mine isn't push button 🙁 it's floor shifter, but is auto locking...in it's infancy...

I'm sure once miesk sees this he'll have some great info to help you out to pinpoint it.
:D Whoa your interior is so nice! Nice ride btw.
 

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1994 XL, E4OD, 5.0, front auto hubs
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I am changing my front axle universal joints so I have to take apart everything(very soon, maybe next week between two rains if I can gather all the parts). Mine is a 94. I would like to change every single bearing and seal in the knuckle, spindle and hub. So I'm very interested in the answers here.
 

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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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:D Whoa your interior is so nice! Nice ride btw.
Hey, thanks 😊 lots of work getting it there with repainting the panels and lots of cleaning a lifetime of Arkansas crud out of it... But still a ways to go before it matches my back half...
Vehicle Car Automotive tail & brake light Plant Hood
Automotive lighting Hood Light Automotive design Motor vehicle
Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Steering wheel Trunk
Vehicle Car Automotive design Motor vehicle Window

Yeah... I'm the type that takes any opportunity to show off my rig 😏
But you can see it all in my build thread. There's a link in my signature 😊
 

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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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Was talking to hubby about this as he had a similar issue with his escape (I just couldn't recall if it was actually the wheel bearing or the hub), a growl or hum especially when turning, he says is wheel bearing and if it's louder turning one way over the other then the side that's louder in the turn is the side that's junked up... So if louder turning right than left then it's the right bearing and vice versa...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Was talking to hubby about this as he had a similar issue with his escape (I just couldn't recall if it was actually the wheel bearing or the hub), a growl or hum especially when turning, he says is wheel bearing and if it's louder turning one way over the other then the side that's louder in the turn is the side that's junked up... So if louder turning right than left then it's the right bearing and vice versa...
Amazing restoration, your progress is where I'm hoping to get to someday.

Thanks for the input, it's such a strange noise, almost sounds hollow.
 

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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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Amazing restoration, your progress is where I'm hoping to get to someday.

Thanks for the input, it's such a strange noise, almost sounds hollow.
Thanks 😊 she's been a real labor of love
Maybe you can get a video of the sound? But I remember hubby's sounded off too. Not really a hum not really a growl...
 

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A growl is usually something grinding. If you're wheel bearings are grinding, you don't want to be driving it, until it's fixed. I had a wheel bearing go out once, truck was on 38s, couldn't hear it. The hub was grinding its way through the bottom side of the spindle. Only thing holding it on was the snap ring on the axle in the hub, and the brake caliper.....
 

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yeah man, change out all the bearings on the front end. Sounds like you're already in there anyway. After that I'd rebuild the drive shaft. Or rather take it to a driveline specialist to get rebuilts for about $350. You can do it yourself, but it's not worth it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks everyone for the replies. I'll replace the bearings and seals this Saturday and post results.

Another question: Do I need to replace the spindle bearing and seals too? Or is that somethings that usually doesn't get worn out?
 

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Thanks everyone for the replies. I'll replace the bearings and seals this Saturday and post results.

Another question: Do I need to replace the spindle bearing and seals too? Or is that somethings that usually doesn't get worn out?
If you're that far in, replace the spindle bearing and seal. Often, that's how water gets in, and kills the main bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Was hoping I wouldn't have to, guess I'll replace the spindle stuff too. Just heard it's a pain to take off.
 

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Was hoping I wouldn't have to, guess I'll replace the spindle stuff too. Just heard it's a pain to take off.
In my instance, I had to replace a spindle. It wasn't that bad. Five or six bolts, the nuts are the pinched lock nuts, so they're tight all the way off. A little lube helps. The spindle is an interference fit in the knuckle, not as tight as press fit, so light tapping all the way around out at the end while pulling takes it right out. Be careful not to damage the threads.
In my instance, I replaced the spindle, bearings, outer races in the hub, bearing nuts and washer, all in a gas station parking lot, some 30 miles from home, using hand tools and the underhood retractable light, because it was after work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
In my instance, I had to replace a spindle. It wasn't that bad. Five or six bolts, the nuts are the pinched lock nuts, so they're tight all the way off. A little lube helps. The spindle is an interference fit in the knuckle, not as tight as press fit, so light tapping all the way around out at the end while pulling takes it right out. Be careful not to damage the threads.
In my instance, I replaced the spindle, bearings, outer races in the hub, bearing nuts and washer, all in a gas station parking lot, some 30 miles from home, using hand tools and the underhood retractable light, because it was after work.
Dam that's quick. I'm hoping under 3 hours lol, with no hiccups. Bet I won't.
Thanks for the tips!
 
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