Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner
61 - 80 of 93 Posts

· Premium Member
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #61 ·
quick update:
Uchhhh, not the front driveshaft. It's not the rear driveshaft. Joints seem good no play (lubed the yoke while i was down there). So now I'm really trying to pinpoint the sound again and I did notice its (kinda, sorta WHO KNOWS) like a rubbing sound on the drivers side. Also I think if I'm going slow I feel a possible VERY slight vibration. I checked the wheel movement, spun hub with tires on/off, dust shield doesn't seem to rub. Checked the back of the rim/tire. Gonna start looking at the axle joints :(

Is there any possibility its the rotor, even if it seems smooth? Or would I have heard something already with the hub/tire test I've done?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,355 Posts
Have you looked at the brakes at all? A piece of rock or something similar can sometimes get stuck in a brake pad, and make a humming/grinding noise. However, it usually follows wheel speed, and doesn't go away by turning.
I think the turning part is what makes this so odd.
Is there a place where you could have someone drive the truck, while you drive something else, preferably a small car, so the window is lower, and closer to the wheel? You would drive next to the front wheel, to listen.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Have you looked at the brakes at all? A piece of rock or something similar can sometimes get stuck in a brake pad, and make a humming/grinding noise. However, it usually follows wheel speed, and doesn't go away by turning.
I think the turning part is what makes this so odd.
Is there a place where you could have someone drive the truck, while you drive something else, preferably a small car, so the window is lower, and closer to the wheel? You would drive next to the front wheel, to listen.
I replaced the front with new calipers and pads while doing the bearings. Bleeding brakes is the worst job imo. I guess I can get my wife to follow me on a turn, we do live in a somewhat quiet neighborhood. Thanks for the idea!
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Update: Noise is still there, noise is definitely on the drivers side.
Recently replaced the u joint on the drivers side. Replaced the steering box, thought this might be a possibility since I had some slop. Didn't think it was the u joint since I've heard they usually make a clunking or grinding sound. Oh well at least my truck now drives tight and like new with all the parts i've replaced.
Kind of at a loss with what to do, will probably take it to a shop. Maybe differential, but why only noise on the front left? Maybe rotors?

Anyway, I'll keep this post updated until I get a resolution. Hope this will help anyone in the future if I do figure this out.
 

· Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
Joined
·
16,923 Posts
I know you've already done a bunch of troubleshooting, but I would think a humming noise has to be in the driveline. Personally, I've never had brakes hum, they usually screech when there's a problem.
 

· Registered
95 5.8L MAF XLT, Hedman Shorties/MF SS Y & Muff, E4OD, Man hubs, KYB Quads, 31x10.5x15, 313K miles
Joined
·
2,062 Posts
Could be a tire making the noise being you checked or changed everything else. Try swapping out your driver's side rim and tire with the spare or your rear passenger side. Waddaya got to lose!!!! That is if you haven't already ruled out the tires.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Thanks for the suggestions. I've ruled out the tire since I had my tires rotated not long ago. But I guess I can try the spare and rule out the rim? Willing to try anything at this point.
Trying to pinpoint better on how the actual noise sounds. Kind of oscillating/rubbing/hum noise when turning right at slow speeds (doesn't matter gas or no gas). Highway or over 45mph I get a kind of hum sound holding right on the steering.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Update:
Replaced the ball joints on the drivers side and replaced the axle joint with a spicer heavy duty unit. Noise still there.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,355 Posts
Well, it will be the last thing you replace that fixes it. Because, once you fix it, you will stop replacing things.............
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,355 Posts
Any possible way it could be the steering shaft?
Highly unlikely. It's only moving when you're turning the wheel, and it moves rather slowly.
Could be something in the pump, or steering gear, as @BroncMom mentioned.
Does turning the wheel feel different, depending on which direction you turn the wheel?
 

· Registered
1990 EB, 5.0
Joined
·
761 Posts
Has he replaced / refurbished the drive shaft yet? This thread has gotten so long I don't recall.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Has he replaced / refurbished the drive shaft yet? This thread has gotten so long I don't recall.
Have not done the driveshafts yet. I bought u-joints for both front and rear but haven't gotten to them yet.

Are you suggesting to replace or get a reman driveshafts? U joint replacement not good enough?
 

· Registered
1990 EB, 5.0
Joined
·
761 Posts
Have not done the driveshafts yet. I bought u-joints for both front and rear but haven't gotten to them yet.

Are you suggesting to replace or get a reman driveshafts? U joint replacement not good enough?
Most guys here will recommend you remove the driveshaft and take it to a driveline specialist near you. WAY easier than doing it yourself. I've done it both ways and can attest to that. General cost was $350 and driveline will replace all the U-joints with spicer, rebuild the double cardon joint and balance it. If you already have the correct u-joints they may knock some off the price. On all 4 of my bronco builds that is one of the first things I do. The driveshaft is too important. It's not something you want to "wonder" about.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter · #79 · (Edited)
Most guys here will recommend you remove the driveshaft and take it to a driveline specialist near you. WAY easier than doing it yourself. I've done it both ways and can attest to that. General cost was $350 and driveline will replace all the U-joints with spicer, rebuild the double cardon joint and balance it. If you already have the correct u-joints they may knock some off the price. On all 4 of my bronco builds that is one of the first things I do. The driveshaft is too important. It's not something you want to "wonder" about.
I'm assuming you're talking about the rear only right? Talked to a shop, they want around 350-400, Can't I just replace the shaft with like lets say a dorman one? Its cheaper and new.
 

· Registered
1990 EB, 5.0
Joined
·
761 Posts
I'm assuming you're talking about the rear only right? Talked to a shop, they want around 350-400, Can't I just replace the shaft with like lets say a dorman one? Its cheaper and new.
Correct. Only the rear driveshaft. You can do the front yourself if you want. Unless you plan to "haul ass" in 4x4 the balance isn't that important. Don't know how much the doorman one costs, or if it comes with quality spicer U-joints. I'd stick with your original shaft vice a Doorman. Better steel and one of the more important parts of your truck. However, if all things are equal, and one is cheaper, go for it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: turtle1025
61 - 80 of 93 Posts
Top