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Discussion Starter #1
I've read ALL the threads..and none of them go anywhere or have any definitive answers. I'm sorry for wasting your guys time..I know its been beaten to death.

I have a '88 F150 4.9 5 speed 4x4. shortbox. It has 296,000 miles on the speedometer and i've been driving it for the past few months daily with the speedometer broke..so i've definitely broke the 300K barrier. I want more power to turn 35's, the sound..etc. Recently I noticed very oily brown coolant and i'm blowing coolant out of the overflow resevoir..its not overheating but something is definitely up..the oil isn't milkshaked yet but it looks funny.

1. I want a 351 out of whatever makes my life easier..what would that be? 87-91 manual F series?

2. Engine perches..are these bolt-on and off or do these have to be cut and welded out and in? rivets..what?

3. Wiring..is it really as simple as unplugging my harness and ecu and replacing it with a 302/351 harness and ecu? (if so what years if any knows?)

Any documentation of a 4.9 to V8 swap would be great if anyone knows where to look
 

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If your dead set on staying with EFI, the best thing to do is get you a 302/351 that is MAF. I think that Ford didn't start using those in the trucks till 94. MAF will make things much easier to mod later. Like intake and exhaust. Otherwise just go carbed.Thats the absolute easiest thing. The wire harness should be plug and play. You will need the PCM and whole engine harness. Ive seen both riveted and bolted in engine mount towers. I've also seen them with both on the same tower. Luck of the draw on which ones you get.
 

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Like camo said, MAF or carb'd would be the way to go....


personally, i'd go carb'd, you can run a more aggressive cam, and far more compression, better heads, and it'll be easy to tune etc. carb'd gets good mileage if it's tuned right too (not running ridiculously huge jets). remember high compression will make the engine run more efficiently, and yeild better fuel economy as well... my personal experience with engine swaps in broncos was as fallows (this was in my '82 bronco with 4" lift and 35's)
stock (351w non HO rated 137 horsepower) 10mpg
fuel injected 302 out of a '90 f-150 (rated 170 horsepower) 10mpg... no gain!!!! the only reason i did the engine swap was for mileage.... so at that point i said F it.. and built a good engine... which was:
408w (351 stroker) 10.25:1 compression, edelbrock RPM heads, crane roller cam (224/[email protected], 540/560 lift) 14mpg... 40% increase in MPG and 300% increase in horsepower! not too bad....

go carb'd.

if you want mileage and fuel injection, i've been thinking for a while a 3.8 v6 out of a windstar van would be a pretty cool swap.. it'll bolt up to a 302/351 trans, it's en easy fit, and it makes about 215hp/265torque in stock form. (a stock, fuel injected 351w bronco only makes 210 horsepower)
 

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If you go MAF, you need a ECU from a Mustang and the Injector harness from www.fordfuelinjection.com

Then you'll nee the engine harness form the donor vehicle.. the block will bolt right into your frame. You'll have have to get the correct motor mounts. I think you should just get a 95 351 it's a roller motor that's not maf. Get the harness from the donor vehicle, plug it in and go..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If you go MAF, you need a ECU from a Mustang and the Injector harness from www.fordfuelinjection.com

Then you'll nee the engine harness form the donor vehicle.. the block will bolt right into your frame. You'll have have to get the correct motor mounts. I think you should just get a 95 351 it's a roller motor that's not maf. Get the harness from the donor vehicle, plug it in and go..
There are a couple reasons I don't want carb..one is it won't pass emissions/inspection..in NY you can swap in any motor of the same year or newer..So when they pop the hood and notice a carb they might freak out. I live in NY and it gets cold..and I daily drive this truck..don't want to be playing with it daily. another strike agains't carbs..I understand fuel injection more than carbs believe it or not..they're old tech..I don't even know how to tune them.

Spectre..you say a 351 roller motor out of 95 that isn't maf should be plug and play with the the harness out of the donor vehicle? would a pre-'95 351 or 302 SD motor still work? I'm assuming as long as I get the ecu and harness out of the donor I can pretty much use whatever fits right?


Edit: Gahfdsjkfal! i'm so indecisive..maybe I should just hunt for a low-mileage 300 and get it fixed in an afternoon..I could use any year 300 if I swap all my factory stuff(intake manifold, injectors, sensors, etc) onto it?
 

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No not really. You would have to use the efi head as well. They carbed head does not have all the bolt holes for the serp belt brackets. If you use the efi head on the carbed block then you'll raise the compression ratio. The efi head has a smaller combustion chamber. It's all doable though, all the parts will fit. Just letting you know what to expect. I know more about the 300 than any other enigne Ford made. If you got anymore questions let me know.
 

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You will need the Frame adapters! The passenger side will unbolt, but the driver side is riveted on V8 frames. These adapters move the engine back the 4 inches to mate it to the transmission.
 

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300K, your 4.9 is still a pup.

If you're going to bother with a swap though, go 351 and go MAF, if you're doing the work, might as well do it right the first time.
 

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Funny I've considered swapping to a 300 and 5sp from a 302
 

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Yeah I love the 300. If I where you I would leave it in there. Thats just me though. Every truck I own has the 300. My 86 4x4, my 86 4x2, my 92 Bronco, and even my old 82 4x2 that I sold last year. In fact I've only owned 1 truck with a windsor and 1 with a 302. That's it, everything eles I ever had, has had the 300.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I did a compression test..they were all 150 across the board..if I cranked it for a long time I could get 160-170psi on some cylinders. I also found a pinhole leak on my plastic radiator endtank that was spraying right on the overflow resevoir..and maybe I just need to change my coolant.I dunno..I hope I don't have a blown headgasket..compression seems low but it was pretty much the same across the board.

I bought oil, a filter, new spark plugs today. Also got new brake pins..I have a terrible scraping/grinding sound on my passenger side in the front. It stops when i hit the brakes. But just cruising down the road they make noise. Brake pads are actually only a few months old..they aren't even close to being worn in. Could I have a caliper thats sticking or something?

I was thinking I could take the calipers off, wire wheel where the pins slide in nice and clean and the grease it up good, and grease the pins that maybe I can get the caliper moving nice and smooth back and forth and maybe get rid of that noise.
 

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Thats pretty decent compression on a 300K motor. Those POS plastic rads are known to split on the ends....get a good brass one.
 

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Like justin said thats aactually pretty good compresion for a motor with that many miles. Is the brown coolant you only key as to there being something wrong? Is it running bad? Missing or hessitating? It may just need a coolant flush. If you don't have bad compression in any cylinder, then you don't have a blown head gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Like justin said thats aactually pretty good compresion for a motor with that many miles. Is the brown coolant you only key as to there being something wrong? Is it running bad? Missing or hessitating? It may just need a coolant flush. If you don't have bad compression in any cylinder, then you don't have a blown head gasket.
Yeah..at lower rpm and low throttle it will lack power, stomp on the gas alittle and it will clear right up though. I'm gonna do the oil..change the plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, and possibly put a new fuel filter on it because it started happening right after I ran it really low on gas. And now my plugs are a VERY light brown..almost whitish.
 

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light brown plugs are also ok. and those compression numbers are great. get the radiator fixed and perhaps change out your tstat also.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Got rid of the misfire/lack of power..changed plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, oil change and fuel filter. 50 psi of oil pressure at idle now:) Guess I was just being a nervous nelly. The leak on the rad is small enough to leak when the engine is cold..but when it gets up to temperature..it doesn't..weird. I think i'm gonna try to find a radiator with metal end tanks. and do an e-fan swap while i'm at it.
 

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My project '72 bumpside has a 300 in it, great torquey engine..... had Offy 4bbl manifold, headers and 600 vac Holley on it when I bought it. If it still runs good, keep it. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #18
If you go MAF, you need a ECU from a Mustang and the Injector harness from www.fordfuelinjection.com

Then you'll nee the engine harness form the donor vehicle.. the block will bolt right into your frame. You'll have have to get the correct motor mounts. I think you should just get a 95 351 it's a roller motor that's not maf. Get the harness from the donor vehicle, plug it in and go..
BACK..from the dead!
I found a donor vehicle and I want to swap a 38,000 miles 5.8 out of a 1990 F150 into my '88 4.9/ 5speed..
this
http://rjminjectiontech.com/products/50-universal-harness

plus 88-93 mustang ECU, MAF, dizzy, injectors, tps
..would be more expensive but alot easier then swapping out the whole harness from the '90 5.8 f150 into mine, correct?

the donor vehicle is getting scrapped so I can take anything i need if it makes a difference
 
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