[auto alchemist]

this is on a 91 351

its the metal fitting that the sensor is plugged into, it also has a small metal 90 degree coolant tube coming off the bottom, which on mine now has a hole and pissed coolant all over my engine, im just not sure what the name of the peice is to buy a new one :twak

 

[Jasonhughes2009]

its the engine coolant temperature sensor for your cars computer, not the one for the gauge

edit: wait are you talking about you need a new metal thing?

 

[auto alchemist]

its the engine coolant temperature sensor for your cars computer, not the one for the gauge

edit: wait are you talking about you need a new metal thing?

yep the metal piece that the sensor screws into

 

[Jasonhughes2009]

every book i have is saying its part of the the thermostat housing

 

[jermil01]

Junk yard.

 

[JKossarides]

FYI: You don't need to go to the JY for that "ogtagonal tree part, just disconnect and take out then all you have to do is drill out the remaining cooling tube piece and tap in 3/8" threads then go to Lowe's etc. and find a short brass 1" tube with 3/8" threading AND in the future you now have the ability to "unscrew" the cooling tube from the "octagonal tree" which then unscews from the lower intake manifold to replace the ECT sensor if need be WITHOUT having to turn the distributor out of the way. Yeah! :chili:

I did mine that way a number of years ago with no leaking issues since, easy peasy and costs less then dollar for the 1" brass tube AND no more rusty cooling tube...lol lol.... :doh0715:

While you have the ogtagonal tree out I would clean it inside and out including the threads where it goes into the lower intake manifold, maybe use some RTV Ultra Copper sealer or Permatex/form a gasket and you're good to go for some time. :rockon

*The octagonal tree is not part of the thermostat housing they're both in different locations on the lower intake manifold where the T-stat opens and closes allowing coolant into the engine at a certain temperature to maintain engine temp. The ECT= engine cooling temp sensor is "one" of the "fuel management" sensors for cold start and normal operation.

The octagonal tree is for the ECT sensor, inline heater hose that comes in from the passenger side to a long tube going into the side of "tree" with the lower cooling tube and hose from the throttle body, problem is the TB is aluminum but the cooling tubes are metal and over time rust and dissolve becoming very soft...PITA design.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup

 

[Seattle FSB]

Junk yard or fab your own.



ECT is 3/8" NPT.

ECT Tee goes above the Thermostat Housing.

Thermostat Housing is below the ECT TEE.

 

[Mikey350]

Everything JKossarides says, plus one other thing.

Don't overtighten it, remember it is a tapered pipe thread, the tighter you make it, the bigger it gets, until you crack the manifold.

So, don't overtighten it, put on a little pipe sealant and get it snug enough to not leak.

 

[JKossarides]

X2 with Mikey350......:doh0715:

OK maybe some ECT's and T-stat housings are in the same location, not familiar with all BKO's ......sorry!

I learned the hard way after I had just swapped in my new 302 EFI long block back in 08, I over torqued the pipe threaded "temp guage sending unit" and cracked the manifold badly right at the thread area..PITA....so JY manifold off a 92 302EFI 5.0 pickup AND cost for drilling a hole for the knock sensor was $125.00 mistake so becarefull, you know less is more...lol lol

Good Luck ~ :thumbup

 

[Seattle FSB]

FYI: You don't need to go to the JY for that "ogtagonal tree part, just disconnect and take out then all you have to do is drill out the remaining cooling tube piece and tap in 3/8" threads then go to Lowe's etc. and find a short brass 1" tube with 3/8" threading AND in the future you now have the ability to "unscrew" the cooling tube from the "octagonal tree" which then unscews from the lower intake manifold to replace the ECT sensor if need be WITHOUT having to turn the distributor out of the way. Yeah! :chili:

I did mine that way a number of years ago with no leaking issues since, easy peasy and costs less then dollar for the 1" brass tube AND no more rusty cooling tube...lol lol.... :doh0715:

While you have the ogtagonal tree out I would clean it inside and out including the threads where it goes into the lower intake manifold, maybe use some RTV Ultra Copper sealer or Permatex/form a gasket and you're good to go for some time. :rockon

Great call. I have yet to find a new ECT TEE, or even a part number for that matter (and I am good at searching). :beer

 

[auto alchemist]

yeah its threaded into the intake behind the t-stat housing, i just wasnt sure what it was called, and this part broke on the way back home from getting a fuel pump for the neighbors windstar so i was in a hurry and just posted in the noob section. and i can say one thing, i was a little mad that the part broke, until i had to drop the tank on that [email protected]#king mini van bye myself in the neighbors driveway:banghead

i was quick to cuss the bronco but it doesnt bother me now, at least its not a mini van lol

 

[auto alchemist]

oh and if anyone is wondering why everything around that tee is red its because theres what appears to be that clay stop leak stuff caked on EVERYTHING inside my radiator, if anyone has some good tips on how to get it out that would be nice.

 

[Bronco85]

I have that fitting sitting in a manifold at my parents house.... Hmm.

 

[Jasonhughes2009]

when my radiator fins got caked, i took off the grile and hooked up a power washer and sprayed that sucker

id recommend not doing it on a day when you plan driving, do it at the earliest point in the day you can, and disconnect the batteries, no need to short something out

 

[JKossarides]

Seattle FSB:

It just seemed obvious to me to tap in threads and be done, the Tree is thick metal but the funny thing was when I found the 92 lower intake manifold at the JY it had all kinds of extra parts on it like several fuel injectors with elec.connectors cut short, a busted IAT with the ECT sensor still in the "octagonal tree" along with the inline heater hose tube as well, though they're not in perfect shape, may still be useable.

When I had the new engine melt down and took it in for "warranty" work back in 08, in the midst of the repair work they totally destroyed the ECT female harness connector leaving just the 2 wires laying there so I just used the one that came with the manifold and it worked out great.

A lot of these harness and sensor connectors "unsnap" and disassemble like weather-pak style connectors used by the "snorkel hearted individuals" ...lol lol....available in pigtals for around $12.00 just about anywhere.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup

 

[Alvin in AZ]

FYI:
You don't need to go to the JY for that "ogtagonal tree part, just disconnect
and take out then all you have to do is drill out the remaining cooling tube
piece and tap in 3/8" threads then go to Lowe's etc. and find a {5/8"} brass
{hose barb} with 3/8" {pipe} threads AND in the future you now have the
ability to "unscrew" the cooling tube from the "octagonal tree" which then
unscrews from the lower intake manifold to replace the ECT sensor if need
be WITHOUT having to turn the distributor out of the way. Yeah!
I did mine that way a number of years ago with no leaking issues since...

Cool idea thanks, JK, I'm gonna do that to all of 'em I mess with from now
on.

The threaded nut (1/2" pipe threads) on the bottom is "supposed to" turn
and leave the side-pipe stationary but in my experience that sucker doesn't
turn easy enough. Ford had a good idea but in practice it didn't work out
as planned?

Alvin in AZ
ps- An idle thought... since I don't have coolant running through the heater
core or the throttle body neither one... was to tap a new 3/8" pipe hole for
the sensor and get a 90* elbow brass hose barb with 1/2" pipe thread and
getting rid of the tree all the way. Hadn't looked into it at all, just thinking! :/
pps- Just use the original hole in the intake manifold with a special Tee...
www.McMaster-Carr.com
9171K34
or
4757T54
plus
4429K413 for the sensor
and
5346K66 for the heater hose (comes in a 5 pack)

 

[JKossarides]

That sounds like an interesting idea that could work giving you more room right there OR if you drill out the remaining cooling tube and tap in 3/8" threads, why not just get a "plug" for there blocking it off since you're not using the cooling tubes.

Sooner ot later we all have to revisit these parts simply due to the continuos corrosion you know and granted, the Octagonal Tree is ugly but it fits properly and with only the inline heater hose side tube and ECT you won't have any headaches but you have to wire wheel them and use "something" on the threads...

Just a thought......pictures either way so we can see what you did..

Good Luck ~ :thumbup

 

[auto alchemist]

i got to thinking about it, and the elbow that is leaking on my truck is the one that runs to the throttle body, could i just cut it off weld up the hole and cap off the coolant port at the filler neck for the radiator and be done with it?

also on the bottom of the tee there is what looks like a nut to get it loose, does the nut spin freely of the tee? if not it looks like i may have to take the alternator and the distributor out just to get the thing unscrewed because of the longer line that goes to the heater hose.

 

[Alvin in AZ]

i got to thinking about it, and the elbow that is leaking on my truck is the one
that runs to the throttle body, could i just cut it off weld up the hole and cap
off the coolant port at the filler neck for the radiator and be done with it?

It's needed to cool the throttle body etc because of the EGR heats that stuff up
bad without it.

also on the bottom of the tee there is what looks like a nut to get it loose,
does the nut spin freely of the tee?

It sure as heck did when it was new, not so sure about how good it'll spin now.

Alvin in AZ

 

[Alvin in AZ]

That sounds like an interesting idea that could work giving you more room
right there OR if you drill out the remaining cooling tube and tap in 3/8"
threads, why not just get a "plug" for there blocking it off since you're not
using the cooling tubes.
Just a thought......pictures either way so we can see what you did..

Not sure what all the bad ideas are about the brass tee idea yet, but two
things about re-using the iron tee come to mind...
1) It's iron. ...so it rusts but its thermal expansion is half that of aluminum.
2) The thin walls kinda have me spooked a little? YMMV on #2 having messed
with one and had good luck both.

I try to take pictures of all my crazy ideas.

Alvin in AZ
ps- Filed out a shorty 11/16" boxed end wrench and turned it into an 18mm...

...is that crazy enough for ya? The other end was already "16mm".