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Discussion Starter #1
It is a ten bolt rear end. There are two curves along the bottom. There is a tag on it.

The first line reads S837 M R (I'm not sure about the "S" it was hard to read)
Bottom line read 55 88 6C18

What is it? Is it good, bad, average?

Thanks

96ProjectBronco
 

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The Anti Yam!
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Hi welcome to FSB.:beer

A little info about your Bronco, year etc would be nice.

You should read this thread.
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60144
Many of your questions will be awnsered inside.

If it is a 96 like your name and listed in your FSB garage then it is the standard 8.8
 

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average axle, the other option in broncos was in the 86 pre where they used a 9", but those are very easily identified b/c they are the only Ford axle to have removable 3rd member, so basically if you see a diff cover, its an 8.8, IMO, the 9" is much stronger and has way more potential, but your axle is plenty good for an average application
 

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Check the link provided by Gacknar for more info but...

From what i know you have a 3.55 gear ratio, 8.8 inch rear end...cant tell if you have limited slip or not. Also you might be able to look at the axle code on your door sticker..for a 91, H9 should mean limited slip..but not always the case...

If you still cant tell you can do it the old fashioned way. Block you front tires, put the truck in neutral and jack the entire rear end up. Spin the tire with your hand...if the other tire spins in the same direction, then you have limited slip/locker. if it spins in the opposite direction, then you have an open differential.

(not sure if this part has ever been covered before)You can also find out the gear ration by doing the same thing. turn the tire 1 turn while watching the drive shaft/yoke. Count how many times it spins per 1 tire spin. IF you have a locking differential, this number will be your gear ratio. IF you have an open rear end, this number will be 1/2 your gear ratio. so if you have limited slip and it goes around 3 1/2 times, then you have a 3.5 (most likely 3.55, its hard to count the .05 of a turn).

Please correct me if any of this info is wrong.
 

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Bitchin.
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quiefinator said:
average axle, the other option in broncos was in the 86 pre where they used a 9", but those are very easily identified b/c they are the only Ford axle to have removable 3rd member, so basically if you see a diff cover, its an 8.8, IMO, the 9" is much stronger and has way more potential, but your axle is plenty good for an average application
not the only removable 3rd member....:thumbup
 

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84x4bronco said:
not the only removable 3rd member....:thumbup
huh? did ford make another one, i just read that in P4WAOR, that the 9" was the only 3rd member axle ford has built, i have the article
 

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sorry about the technicality, it sounds like the 8" is real relevant to this forum, but yes i forgot to put truck, my bad
 

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Bitchin.
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just makin sure ya knew. trivial i know. this guy should have searched anyways...:popc1: only reason i bring it up is because it does have a full line of lockers, aftermarket axleshafts, andis COMMONLY mistaken for a 9 inch in earlier mustangs.
 

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yeah, good call though, i re-read my own post and still thought i said truck, but that just goes to show that u cant even say one little thing wrong and get away w/ it on this forum, its like english in High School
 

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FSB warrior
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9" you need a wrench to get the bottom 2 nuts off the 3rd member... 8" you can do with a ratchet, also the 8" was always a completely round/egg shaped back end where as 9" had the buldge popping out the back on newer applications (I think it was late 60's 9" s were just round)
 

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81Bronk36 said:
9" you need a wrench to get the bottom 2 nuts off the 3rd member... 8" you can do with a ratchet, also the 8" was always a completely round/egg shaped back end where as 9" had the buldge popping out the back on newer applications (I think it was late 60's 9" s were just round)
with a drain plug i might add..:thumbup (god im picky...)
 

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ok i realize what i posted earlier in this same thread will tell you if you have a locking dif, but does it actually work on factory limited slip? i've never actually tried it. The reason i'm asking is this...

I cant read my axle tag. its rusted all the heck. I can make out the very last number of where itshould say L55 or what have you, so i can basically read a 5 on the very end...

the door tags axle code is H9 (i have a 91 eddie bauer) and i've read that h9 decodes to 3.55 LS

I was on the trail the other weekend, found a nice dirt pile (the one thats my avatar) and decided to test my stock bronc's flex. I may have hit it a little aggressively at first and ended up with the rear drivers tire in the air (oops) i tried to back off the mound (had it in 2wheel) and when i put it in reverse, lightly touched the gas, and the in-air tire spun, and i didnt not move. Instead of flooring it (should've tried..not sure how much effort it takes to lock up if i have LS) i just put it in 4h and back down. (i later remounted the mound with all 4 tires on the ground for the pic).

What this entire little story is getting at is i'm untrusting if i have LS now. Going uphil on loose dirt/gravel my buddys didnt notice either tire spinning when i tried to spin them out. Short of taking the dif cover off, how can i be sure i have LS?

If i do i'm sure i need a new clutch pack, but i don't want to buy the clutch pack, take it apart, and find out i dont have LS...or vice versa. i dont want to take it apart and find out i do have LS, put it all back together and then go get a new clutch pack... i dont have a garage so i wouldnt want to just leave it in pieces while i'm going out for parts etc.
 
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