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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys thanx for lookin....I just want to know if anyone has some info about where the Ignition Control Module is on an 86 Bronco XLT 302 efi.....If this module is bad, would it cause a problem starting the vehicle? Its hard to start my truck and when I do, it doesnt IDLE....I have to keep my foot on the gas to keep it running. I replaced the fuel filter, the fuel pump primes nice and strong, I am getting spark to the plugs..I changed the valve cover gaskets and I started having this problem afterwards....Could it be the TPS or the IAC? Any input would help...I am just kinda stumpped!:banghead
 

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Probably pull and clean the IAC with Fuel Injection cleaner spray. Also, probably search for IAC, it should pull up alot of info.

Ignition control module should be just below the distributor cap on the distributor, but if it runs, doubt that's it.
 

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Norseman8305:
Any of these could contribute to the problem but first you need to "pull codes" from the PCM - power control module which is located under the dash right of the steering column, the connectors for pulling codes is located under the hood right side near the battery. So find out what the BKO is doing, then you do KOEO - key on engine off and, KOER - key on engine running the PCM performs the diagnostics then spits out a code. Codes can be copied FREE from www.fordfuelinjeciton.com this site is owned by Fireguy50 who is a FSB member.
There are numerous threads regarding "How to Pull Codes" SO SEARCH . :doh0715:

The module is called a TFI -Thick Film Integrated Module which is attached to the diisy outside, failure is quite common when cold, hot then cold etc. You can have it tested for free at an Autozone type place or get a reman dissy complete with both TFI & PIP sensors from Napa for about $130. out the door. :chili:

PIP - profile ignition pickup sensor (Hall Affect Sensor) inside on the end of the dissy shaft which has to pulled out to replace that sensor PITA. :banghead

TPS, this just sets the blade angle of the TB
IAC - you can clean it with TB cleaner replace the gasket and if necessary set the idle using the your Tach & TB idle stop screw for correect idle according to Haynes. :duh

Varying voltage can also play a part in all of these so you'll need a multmeter.

Changing valve cover gaskets won't cause you any of the problems unless you inadvertantly did some damage to your harness or wires leading to any of the afore mentioned.:twak

Welcome to BRONCOLAND the home of continous repair work in progress. lol lol

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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I just want to know if anyone has some info about where the Ignition Control Module is on an 86 Bronco XLT 302 efi
On the side of the distributor.



If this module is bad, would it cause a problem starting the vehicle?
Yes. Most likely, the vehicle wouldn't start.



Its hard to start my truck and when I do, it doesnt IDLE....I have to keep my foot on the gas to keep it running. I replaced the fuel filter, the fuel pump primes nice and strong, I am getting spark to the plugs..I changed the valve cover gaskets and I started having this problem afterwards....Could it be the TPS or the IAC?
Check for codes, but I would be suspect of the IAC in a case like this; either it is dirty or faulty. Pull the throttle body off and clean it, as they get a large build up of carbon.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I already pulled codes, and it passed the test with NO error codes whatsoever...thats whats so frustrating!!! So this is not a compression issue or anything because all I did was change the VCG's...could changing these throw the timing?
I checked all the wiring and all I found was a wire leading to the injector that had some insulation cracked off but I looked and the wires were all intact..... Any other suggestions?
 

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FPR -fuel pressure regulator maybe, when was the last time it was changed? Located drivers side fuel rail back near the air filer box.

Shot in the dark ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Man I have no clue when that was changed last....Is it between the fuel pump and filter or between the filter and engine??? Could this cause the problem?
 

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When facing the top front of the motor, FPR (triangle shape) is located above the lower intake manifold on the drivers side (right) FUEL RAIL going back towards the firewall just below the air filter box you can see it. It has 3 upside down allen head screws so you need to pull off the air filter box and bracket for room to work, you have to stretch to get it. You also have an IAT sensor and NOX sensor right there, the FPR is the farthest back.

Check your Haynes or "search" for a picture in one of the threads here!

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Okay I will check that out...does a bad FPR cause a "no idle" condition? And I am wondering when you clean the IAC, is it true that if you turn it upside down, you will ruin it and have to buy a new one? I read that somewhere on here
 

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Here, Here! :rockon

YES on the IAC and make sure all the TB cleaner has evaporated or you can fry the solenoid attached if you re-connect it wet. :doh0715:

Even though the fuel pumps are working, if the FPR is failing you'll loose continous pressure or cause erratic pressure starving it for fuel at that point, so no fuel no idle right......? :banghead


Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here, Here! :rockon

YES on the IAC and make sure all the TB cleaner has evaporated or you can fry the solenoid attached if you re-connect it wet. :doh0715:

Even though the fuel pumps are working, if the FPR is failing you'll loose continous pressure or cause erratic pressure starving it for fuel at that point, so no fuel no idle right......? :banghead


Good Luck ~ :thumbup
And by upside down on the IAC I mean with the openings facing up to the ceiling.....is this correct that it will ruin the IAC?

Any other possible causes besides those discussed above?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah....what happened was I bought the truck and it ran great...however there was smoke coming from the VCGs. I drove the truck around for a couple of days filled the tank up just under half full and then parked it in my driveway for about a month due to out of state work. When I got back, I IMMEDIATELY changed the VCG's...When I went to start it after I did the gasket job, it just cranked and cranked and thus my present problem I have.....
 

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Could it just be "bad gas" in it? or water in the fuel from sitting for a month?
 

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Norseman8305:
With regard to the IAC, when you pull it off the TB for cleaning the IAC Valve opening should be facing downward with the Solenoid upright for the simple reason you don't want the TB cleaner to invade the solenoid if possible and infect the electricals.

In any case you can replace the IAC solenoid seperately, it just unscrews from the IAC valve with 2 screws, it's spring loaded inside to that rod that runs inside.

Have you had any ignition problems, coil for example.............?

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Norrseman8305:

Have you tested the TFI igniton module yet at a Autozone for example....?
To remove it you have to losen the dissy and turn it to the right for screw access, don't forget to mark the dissy and a reference spot after you test/replace the module to turn the dissy back where it was before. :chili:

On my 86 on the right frame rail towards the back under the Tcase skid plate there is another "fuel filter" in a round black plastic device called a "Reservoir" with a hockey puck shaped filter, hole in the center with an "O" ring, the filter goes hole up to meet the top part with a center nipple/tube for fuel flow back to front. The bottom plastic cap unscrews and you'll see a track where the "O" rings sits. Once cleaned with new filter, I used a almost DRY brush with a tiny amount Permatex so it would set up and keep the "O" ring in place when screwing the bottom cap back on because the "O" ring doesn't want to cooperate and stay in the track by itself and you can crush it pissing out every where and then you can't re-use the "O" ring. Also when screwing that cap back on it needs to thread all the way closed with NO seem gap at the top. Putting this back on correctly is a must and it is a PITA because as the cap screws on tighter and leverage to keep tightening becomes harder due to the location under there. Cost for filter and "O" ring was $9.00 have fun Bro! lol lol :banghead

Somewhere there is thread with pictures of what it looks like, it's purpose is to keep a level of fuel supply to the pumps when cornering, up/down hill etc.
Mine was black & cruddy inside. :doh0715:

Another shot in the dark, but there could very well be some blockage or sludge restricting fuel.

:thumbup
 
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