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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Question in respect to the wiring involved in starting ab 85 Bronco. More specifically, when I bought my Bronco, the previous owner installed a push button start right next to the cup holder. At first, I was a fan of this but now not so much.

The reasons as to why I don't like this push button system is that it makes the vehicle harder to start. more specifically, pushing the start button does not direct all of the power to spark and start alone. this being the case, i did realize that when pushing the start button, i could also turn the key in the ignition cylinder to the crank position to direct all power to the starting circuit. this worked great for a while until the ignition switch downstream of the steering column fell apart as they usually do in 80's Ford trucks.

When the ignition switch was replaced, I lost the ability to direct all of the power to the coil and starter when i was twisting the key and pushing the start button.
to sum it up, i am looking to revert the starting circuit back to factory for easier starting.

side note: twisting the key to the engine crank position in the ignition cylinder alone does not engage the starter solenoid.


Thank you in advance for the help!
 

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Yo full_size_rust,
Here is info to assist you;
See this 1985 EVTM - Gary's Garagemahal (the Bullnose bible) by Ford via Gary
Excerpt;
Font Material property Parallel Rectangle Screenshot

Also see the wiring diagrams.

1985 Bronco Dealer Brochure via Gary @ 1985 Bronco - Gary's Garagemahal (the Bullnose bible)

1985 Owner Guide by Ford via Gary

Ford Manual Transmissions @ Ford Truck Manual Transmissions – Blue Oval Trucks

1985 Bronco/F Series Specifications by Ford via Gary

1985 Bronco/F Series Lubricant Specifications by Ford via Gary

1985-1986 Fuel System Adjustments - Gary's Garagemahal (the Bullnose bible) by Ford via Gary

80-86 Bronco Differences by Gary @ 1980 - 86 Ford Trucks - Gary's Garagemahal (the Bullnose bible)

Fasteners & Illustrations by Gary @ Ford 1980-86 Pickup Fasteners - Gary's Garagemahal (the Bullnose bible)

1985 Exterior Colors & Codes by Ford via Gary

Haynes Red Manual for 80-95 Bronco & F Series @ Hanes guide 80-96 bko f series.pdf via BroncMom

See my
View attachment 202200
site graciously recovered by member schwim @ Ford Bronco And F-150 Links - FORD BRONCO

For any Bronco questions or to chat about it's planned modifications or build, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories which requires at least non-padded 50 posts to buy, sell or trade due to scammers who preyed on our members many times.

Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links) including, "how do I get the tailgate glass to...", etc.

See How to add your 85s Signature @ Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum by BigBlue 94

Forum FAQs includes for example, Hot to Use Search. How To Save (Bookmark) Threads Or Posts, How To Upload Images To Posts and more tips!

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You will get ideas by those competing.
Prizes are awarded to Winner; a full spread in Bronco Driver Magazine is the top prize, in addition to a years subscription, once the article is submitted and a years worth of premium FSB membership!
Al


 

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Reading you OP, it sounds a little confusing.
So, can you start it at all, or no? Before you replaced the ignition switch, did you put the key in "run", push the button, and it would crank and start? Now, it doesn't do this at all?
You mentioned putting the key in "start", and then pushing the button. Does the key not spring back from "start" to "run"? Replacing the switch won't fix that, that's in the column. Either the actuator, or the rod and spring. I did have the head (the wing part you grab and turn) of a lock cylinder break from the cylinder once. It stayed on, but you could continually turn it without the key.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Reading you OP, it sounds a little confusing.
So, can you start it at all, or no? Before you replaced the ignition switch, did you put the key in "run", push the button, and it would crank and start? Now, it doesn't do this at all?
You mentioned putting the key in "start", and then pushing the button. Does the key not spring back from "start" to "run"? Replacing the switch won't fix that, that's in the column. Either the actuator, or the rod and spring. I did have the head (the wing part you grab and turn) of a lock cylinder break from the cylinder once. It stayed on, but you could continually turn it without the key.
the car runs and starts ok. as it is currently, the starting system mimics he idea of jumping the solenoid. kinda like using one of those hand held switches to turn the engine over when you are doing a compression test. in my case, that switch is mounted next to my cup holder and i push it to start the vehicle after i put the key in the ignition and switch it to "engine on key on". i don't like this method of starting it because it does not direct all of the power to the coil and starter when i push the switch.
the current method of starting works, just not as well as it should.

thank you for the input!
 

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If the starter works, it's getting sufficient power. By coil, do you mean ignition coil, or starter relay? The ignition coil is getting its power because the is in the engine on position. The usual way of mounting a pushbutton bypass is to connect the pushbutton to a hot line from the fuse box, or a hot line that's only hot when the key is on, and run a wire to the small stud on the starter relay on the fender. That's easy to tell, from following the hot line feeding the pushbutton, and looking at the starter relay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If the starter works, it's getting sufficient power. By coil, do you mean ignition coil, or starter relay? The ignition coil is getting its power because the is in the engine on position. The usual way of mounting a pushbutton bypass is to connect the pushbutton to a hot line from the fuse box, or a hot line that's only hot when the key is on, and run a wire to the small stud on the starter relay on the fender. That's easy to tell, from following the hot line feeding the pushbutton, and looking at the starter relay.
for the coil, i am referring to the ignition coil. it does get power when im starting but i believe that its only getting the running voltage and not the increased amount of voltage that is required when starting the vehicle. from my understanding on older vehicles (and i can very well be wrong) i believe that when turning the key all the way to the starting position, the only things that should be getting power should be the coil, spark, and starting motor.

on a side note, i can push the start button on the vehicle and the motor will turn over but will not fire unless i have the key in the running position
 

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for the coil, i am referring to the ignition coil. it does get power when im starting but i believe that its only getting the running voltage and not the increased amount of voltage that is required when starting the vehicle. from my understanding on older vehicles (and i can very well be wrong) i believe that when turning the key all the way to the starting position, the only things that should be getting power should be the coil, spark, and starting motor.

on a side note, i can push the start button on the vehicle and the motor will turn over but will not fire unless i have the key in the running position
Looks like somebody was bypassing a neutral safety switch. It might need adjustment, or replacing, which would solve all your issues.
 

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Your nss turns on the reverse lights.
It's bolted to the side of the transmission, and has a wire set plugged into it. Go underneath, and follow the shifter linkage to the transmission. There it is, the shaft that comes out of the transmission, that the linkage attaches to, passes right through the nss.
Pull the linkage, disconnect the wire, a couple bolts, it's off.......
 
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Sounds like you might have multiple things going on there.



-Yes, it sounds like your pushbutton bypasses the nss, since you can crank it in any gear.

-The original reason for the pushbutton may have been due to an nss problem, but it might have been because of an ignition actuator problem. Either one can be bypassed like that, so you'll have to dig further to figure out what is wrong.



-Yes, you're right about older coil systems receiving additional voltage during cranking. But that is normally done by the solenoid when it is engaged, not by another path from the ignition switch. So typically the pushbutton bypass would still engage the solenoid & it's ability to give the coil extra voltage while it starts. If you have a 4 post solenoid the small "I" post is normally connected to the coil circuit after the resistor wire to provide that full voltage.
 

· Driving Stuff Henry Built
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If you look at closely above the small posts on a 4 post solenoid you can see a small "I" & "S" cast into the plastic. "I" is for ignition & goes to the coil circuit to provide full voltage to the coil during cranking. Make sure that is still connected. "S" is for start & is for the wire that normally comes from the circuit that includes the ignition switch & the nss, & turns the solenoid on. The "S" post is probably where your button bypass is connected.

 

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Something weird has been going on where as I type more spaces get added, So I have to finish this in multiple posts.
YoKen,
I have a similar issue with spacing and strange changes to my text such as I just wrote "englsh numerals"and then a quick change occurred to "e g,jsh numerals"
 

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YoKen,
I have a similar issue with spacing and strange changes to my text such as I just wrote "englsh numerals"and then a quick change occurred to "e g,jsh numerals"
Yeah Al, I've got some weird jumping going on too. But if I keep working on a post it'll add so many spaces it's hard to follow, as well as jumbling my words together like you mentioned. As I try to remove them it gets worse. If I add a pic sometimes it will dump those & replace them with a small outline with letters inside.

But if I click on the settings icon (blue gear in the icons at the bottom of the new post section at the bottom of the page) it let's my type normally. Other features are off at that point, but at least I can type undisturbed.

I say type, but I'm on a phone. A fairly new android.
 

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Thanks Ken!
I spent much time trying to address a supposed hack of my tablet!
Can you post a pic of "the settings icon (blue gear in the icons at the bottom of the new post section at the bottom of the page)"?

My Screenshot of of the new post section at the bottom of the page
Rectangle Font Screenshot Software Operating system
 

· Driving Stuff Henry Built
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Font Rectangle Office supplies Office equipment Material property

Thanks Ken!

I spent much time trying to address a supposed hack of my tablet!

Can you post a pic of "the settings icon (blue gear in the icons at the bottom of the new post section at the bottom of the page)"?



My Screenshot of of the new post section at the bottom of the page

View attachment 205482
Here ya go. I had to unlock the "setting icons" to attach the screenshot & you can see how it added spaces to your quote. If I leave it unlocked it continues to go nuts & add many more.
 

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