[CZ Eddie]

So, I did a search first. And every single post was about the key spinning in the ignition cylinder. But mine doesn't do that.
While the key is a little difficult to turn at first, it does it's job just fine.

But what's weird, is the key ignition cylinder spins freely by itself?
It won't start the car or anything. But if I turn it, it will set off the "door open" chimes.

Oh, and why does my '94 Bronco have three freaking keys.
I've figured out one is for the ignition.
One is for the rear window up/down.
Not sure yet what the third is for. I only know it doesn't work in the ignition or rear window cylinders.

 

[wasp1971]

Lock cylinders are quick and easy to replace. Lots on youtube. Maybe third key is for gas cap or hitch??

 

[CZ Eddie]

I filled up with gas once already and don't recall using a key for it.
The second key is large, just like the first key. Just a different cutout/pinout/whatever.
The third key is the smaller, all silver key for the back window.

If I replace the lock cylinder, I'd have to replace the key?
I guess that would be okay.
Not like I know which freaking key to use anyway when I walk up to my car in the morning.

 

[NickOille]

Maybe the 3rd key is for the glove box lock? But I’m pretty sure that should be the same as the ignition
For the ignition cylinder spinning without a key, I think it’s fairly normal once they get worn out. My wife’s 87 Bronco II did it, and my 93 F150 did it. It’s easy to swap out for a new one. So if I understand it correctly, half of your key is cut for the ignition, and half is cut for the door. So most of the new ignition cylinders you buy have keys cut to the ignition on half, but the door half is left blank so your local locksmith can match that half to your old key, and it will open the door

 

[miesk5]

Yo Eddie,
One suspect is the Column Key CYLINDER Drive Gear (last tooth on drive gear must engage last notch on actuator).. @ http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/72346/fullsize/columntilt-exploded.jpg

Part #73 Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder 11582
Part #70 Steering Column Lock Gear 3E717
or 64 Steering Column Lock Lever Upper Actuator 3E723 (with roll pin, not shown) is stripped

Ignition Lock Cylinder Rekeying in a 92* Source: by amtarsha (Sotally Tober) at https://www.fullsizebronco.com/foru...s/128285-ignition-lock-cylinder-rekeying.html

Lock Cylinder Replacement in a 94 (from Bronco, F-Super Duty Chassis Manual); "...To install ignition cylinder use steps 1-6 on the left column...)
Source: by Ken B (Kenny's 94) at https://www.fullsizebronco.com/foru...stions-flame-free-zone/174074-push-start.html

Ignition Switch Mechanical Test
NOTE: Accessories such as radio, starter, etc. that fail to operate with the key in RUN, or that remain on when the key is turned off, may be the result of a misadjusted ignition switch rather than a malfunctioning ignition switch.

Does ignition Key have the usual spring back from Start to Run?
The ignition switch, mounted inside column's shroud is where the spring-back is provided, but the actuator(s) is often damaged. Ensure switch is securely mounted first.

Ignition Switch Mechanical Test
NOTE: Accessories such as radio, starter, etc. that fail to operate with the key in RUN, or that remain on when the key is turned off, may be the result of a misadjusted ignition switch rather than a malfunctioning ignition switch.

Test the steering column ignition system mechanical operation by rotating the ignition switch lock cylinder (11582) through all positions of the ignition switch. The movement should feel smooth with no sticking or binding. The ignition system should return from the START position back to the ON position without assistance (spring return). If sticking or binding is encountered, check for the following:
burrs on the ignition switch lock cylinder
binding ignition switch lock cylinder
shroud rubbing against ignition switch lock cylinder
burrs or foreign material around the rack-and-pinion actuator in the housing of the ignition switch lock cylinder
insufficient lube on actuator
binding ignition switch

Ignition Actuator Removal in a 95 w/Tilt; "...Symptoms of the problem before tearing into the steering column was that I could start the truck, but not shut it off. The key was easily turned without any
normal resistance/spring to it and all accessories had power with the key in any position. The rest is pretty simple though. All reverse of installation..."
Source: by KC200787 @ Steering column teardown and ignition actuator replacement in a 1995 (92+ Columns) - FSB Forums

 

[jowens1126]

I recently replaced my Steering column and my lock cylinder. My problem was similar to yours, I could start it without a key, and if you force it, it would spin all the way around. In the process, I completely stripped down the old column. In the next month or 3, I am going to do a thread on the 92-96 steering column tear down and rebuild. Its pretty easy. The complex part is the internal actuator rod that the key turns that engages the start switch. Its not bad to do, you just have to be careful, take lots of pictures and have good fishing tools like a small gasket pick, straight on one end, hooked on the other.

The main issue I found was the key switch plastic parts were broken. Replacing the key switch solved 99% of the issues.

I was confused as hell which one to order though. If you look on RockAuto you will see the Motorcraft cylinders are noted as Number 3 Cut C, and Number 2 Cut B. I assume this is so that the lockset can be keyed to your door lock type. How to determine which one I or anyone else has is something I could never find out. Instead I got the Standard Motor Products part. The key cut pattern is completely different than my stock key. Im going to take it to a lock smith eventually and have them match it or tell me where to go from there.

I replaced the whole column and added the new switch, so that problem is now solved. After I completely rebuild the old one I may swap it back or sell it or keep it.

 

[CZ Eddie]

Okay, so this issue is not a disaster yet.

Thanks everyone!!

I'm going to come back to this issue in a few weeks or so.
I have more sensitive issues to fix first.
Bouncy side mirrors.
Slight clunk at stop'n'go.
Oil leak.
Sloppy steering.

I love having a used vehicle again.
Fun projects!

 

[miesk5]

I'm going to come back to this issue in a few weeks or so.
I have more sensitive issues to fix first.
Bouncy side mirrors.
Slight clunk at stop'n'go.
Oil leak.
Sloppy steering.
I love having a used vehicle again.
Fun projects!

Yo Eddie,
Check trans and engine mounts.
Check for a bad/loose engine mount by having helper put it in Drive, foot on brake, then rev up engine. With the hood up you can see if the engine "lifts up" too much (bad or loose mount). Do the test in fwd and reverse gears.

U joints, esp at front of rear driveshaft. "
ElKabong wrote, "when you check the u-joints, park it on a flat spot, block the wheels & put it in neutral. That way the driveshaft will be free to move if the u-joints are bad..."

Rear Driveshaft Slip Shaft needs greasing.

Slip Shaft Spline Lubrication pic in a 95; "...If your bronco suffers from the notorious thunk this is a good time to lube your shaft.." see pic @ http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/259896/fullsize/img_2630.jpg
Source: by TRUCKY18 (Bco)

Driveshaft, Rear, One-Piece Removal;
This is how FORD describes it;
"Raise vehicle and install safety stands.
NOTE: On four-wheel drive vehicles equipped with a slip between center driveshaft, disconnect the driveshaft (4602) at the transfer case during removal.
To maintain driveline balance, if the yellow alignment marks are not visible, mark the relationship of the driveshaft flange yoke (4866) and the rear axle companion flange so they may be reinstalled in their original positions.

Circular rear axle companion flange:
Remove the bolts retaining the driveshaft flange yoke to the rear axle companion flange and disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle (4001).
Lower the driveshaft and slide the driveshaft rearward off the transmission output shaft.
Install an appropriate plug in the extension housing (7A039) to prevent fluid loss.
Installation:
Lubricate the slip yoke spline with Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.
Remove the tool from the extension housing. Inspect extension housing seal for damage. Replace if necessary.
Install the driveshaft slip yoke (4841) on the transmission (transfer case for BRONCO output shaft. Do not allow the driveshaft slip yoke to bottom on the output transmission shaft with excessive force.
NOTE: When installing a new driveshaft, align the factory-made yellow paint mark at the rear of the driveshaft tube with the factory-made yellow paint mark on the outside diameter of the rear axle companion flange. If paint marks are not visible and vibration exists after installation, refer to Section 05-00.

Install the driveshaft so that the index marks made before removal are aligned or the yellow mark (if visible) on the driveshaft tube (light side) is in line with the yellow mark on the rear axle companion flange high side runout. This prevents vibration that occurs when the balance of the shaft and runout of the axle companion flange become additive instead of neutralizing. If a vibration exists, the driveshaft should be disconnected from the rear axle, rotated 180 degrees and reinstalled.
Remove stands and lower vehicle.
Road test vehicle.
Driveshaft Removed
Cut the driveshaft slip yoke boot clamps (4K227) with sidecutters. Remove and discard the clamps
Separate the driveshaft slip yoke (4841) from the splined stub shaft on the driveshaft.

Remove the slip yoke boot. Inspect the slip yoke boot for rips or holes and replace if required.

If, during inspection, the driveshaft and coupling shaft boot is found to be cracked or split, the grease should be checked for contamination. Check the lubricant by rubbing between two fingers. Any gritty feeling indicates a contaminated driveshaft slip yoke and stub shaft. If driveshaft (4602) is operating satisfactorily and the grease does not appear to be contaminated, add grease as described in the assembly portion of this procedure and replace the slip yoke boot. If the grease appears contaminated, disassemble the driveshaft, clean and inspect the stub shaft and driveshaft slip yoke for wear. If splines are excessively worn, replace driveshaft.
If required, remove and replace the U-joints.

Assembly
Install the slip yoke boot with the small diameter side facing the splined stub shaft on the stub shaft. Push the slip yoke boot as far as it will travel on the stub shaft.

Install a small driveshaft slip yoke boot clamp and crimp the clamp using Keystone Clamp Pliers T63P-9171-A.

Compress the slip yoke boot and coat the stub shaft splines with Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.

Fill the slip yoke boot with approximately 10 grams of Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.

Slide the large driveshaft slip yoke boot clamp onto the barrel of the driveshaft slip yoke.

Align the blind splines on the splined stub shaft and in the driveshaft slip yoke. Push the driveshaft slip yoke onto the stub shaft.

Remove all excess grease from the slip yoke boot and driveshaft slip yoke surfaces. Position the slip yoke boot over the driveshaft slip yoke boot groove.

Move the driveshaft slip yoke in or out in order to obtain the distance of 10 inches between stud shaft weld to the centerline of the driveshaft slip yoke U-joint
Before installing the new large slip yoke boot clamp, make sure that any air pressure which may have built up in the slip yoke boot is relieved. Carefully insert a screwdriver between the slip yoke boot and the driveshaft slip yoke and allow the trapped air to escape ("burp") from the slip yoke boot. THE AIR MUST BE RELEASED ONLY AFTER THE DRIVESHAFT IS SET AT THE SPECIFIED LENGTH
Position the new large driveshaft slip yoke boot clamp over the slip yoke boot and groove in the driveshaft slip yoke. Crimp the driveshaft slip yoke boot clamp with Keystone Clamp Pliers T63P-9171-A
Source: by Ford

 

[CZ Eddie]

Yep, yep. Thank you
I've got the high-pressure grease and a couple new U-Joints sitting in my garage right now.
I figured as long as I was going to grease the slip yoke, I may as well replace the two U-Joints also. A pro-active maintenance idea since while they seem "okay'ish", they will need replacing at some point in the near future.

Just waiting on Amazon to deliver my fog-proof, over-the-glasses eye protection sometime today.
Wanna pressure wash my undercarriage before I do any work under there!

 

[CZ Eddie]

The sloppy steering is the only thing I'm not sure how to tackle yet.
I'll be researching that and Saginaw and the hydraulic (?) brake mod soon.
That'll come after the other issues are fixed.

 

[jowens1126]

Clunk in the rear...... another thing to check is your rear wheel cylinders. If one of the plungers gets cockeyed it could also make that sound on stop and go.

 

[CZ Eddie]

So, the third key is for the doors.
One key for doors, one for ignition and one for rear window!
And one of the door keys is flaky. It works to lock but not unlock (passenger side).

Argh!

 

[j. r. Nice]

So, the third key is for the doors.
One key for doors, one for ignition and one for rear window!
And one of the door keys is flaky. It works to lock but not unlock (passenger side).

Argh!

Sounds like someone has replaced the ignition before, and didn't match it correctly.

One option is to decode the door key (locksmith) and buy the correct series service ignition and have him transfer the door cuts to the new key.....

OR

Buy a lockset consisting of the ignition and 2 door locks, eliminate the locksmith and install them yourself.

The "flaky" door key isn't cut correctly, if it goes one way and not the other, it's not a good copy. If it's on an aftermarket blank, chances are it's a 3rd or 4th generation of the original.
You could have the locksmith code cut a new key and fix the issue.

 

[Native_Viking]

I replaced the ignition key cylinder in my truck but not the door key cylinders.
I was lucky enough to be able to have one key made that had one key cut to one side of key and the other key pattern on other side of key.
I cut a notch in the area where the key ring hole is so I knew what side did the doors.

Brand new my 1993 and my 1995, the ignition key and door key was the same square key and the round key did the rear gate (and the locking glove box if you have one).

Next go around I will be buying matching door/ignition key sets

 

[CZ Eddie]

Thanks, everyone.
I don't want to go janky so I'll just buy the full ignition + two door locks set and call it a day.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Large...ilSmallFlatRateBox!78665!US!-1&frcectupt=true

Not going to be doing this for a couple/few weeks though.
I'll go the DIY route of course.