Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,867 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok, before anyone says it, I have researched but nothing come up under the same problems besides "replace lock cylinder"....It is a BRAND new cylinder that broke. Also, it has a new upper actuator and (for some reason my mind went blank) the control module at the bottom of the column.

Anyways, I went out on my lunch break to make a quick trip for food and my truck (lights and stereo) came on. Waited a second like normal and the key hesitated for second and spun around. I pulled the cylinder after ghetto starting it and getting my food and the spade part broke off inside the column and I cannot get it out. It's stuck in the "RUN" position so the only logical thing I could do was unhook the battery so I don't drain the power and come back inside. I have thought of stuff to do and the only logical solutions is to either tear apart the column or get a new one from the JY...

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks ahead of time.
~Levi~
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
I had the same problem. I had to pick the chunk out using a couple of picks. Took bout 10 min to dig it out. Put in new cylinder and havent had any problems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,867 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
That's for 92+ with a manual (basically the same except mines an 88 with an auto) but oh well

Edit: Mine isn't a tilt either, but I AM looking at the thread

I had the same problem. I had to pick the chunk out using a couple of picks. Took bout 10 min to dig it out. Put in new cylinder and havent had any problems.
Damn, I guess when I get off at 11 tonight I get to have fun with that :doh0715:

Thanks! :thumbup
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,867 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Oh, ok. Now I understand why you posted the first one. I'm looking at both of them right now, but I'm gonna try it the easier way first. If it doesn't work, then a column teardown is in my future :cry
 

·
Forward Some Money
Joined
·
5,054 Posts
Remove the snap ring, and hardened washer. Try using a shop vac with a small nozzle to suck it out. You may have to jiggle the broken piece with a small screwdriver to make sure it's loose. If it's really stubborn, you could try drilling a small hole and use a tap. I like a locksmith's tool called a broken key extractor.

Good luck, shouldn't need to tear the column down.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
561 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,867 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Remove the snap ring, and hardened washer. Try using a shop vac with a small nozzle to suck it out. You may have to jiggle the broken piece with a small screwdriver to make sure it's loose. If it's really stubborn, you could try drilling a small hole and use a tap. I like a locksmith's tool called a broken key extractor.

Good luck, shouldn't need to tear the column down.
That actually sounds best. I didn't get to the bronco because I had to help my brother drop a new motor into a Mitsubishi Eclipse and got it almost finished up....(makes you appreciate the room you have under the hood of Fords)

I'll be doing this after work. :thumbup
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,867 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Well, bad news. stupid snap ring won't budge....it'll spin inside the groove but I can't get a good enough grip on it to get part of it out...any tips on getting it out or do I just have to keep f*ckin with it until I get lucky?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,867 Posts
Discussion Starter #12

·
Nvr Been Bnnd
Joined
·
8,675,444 Posts
^^^^ dont know how bulky those might be....

u could probly get one of these to work, and they are 8.99 at HF.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,867 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Like I stated, I don't plan on using them more than one time. When I go to a manual, I'll go out and get higher quality tools, but for now I just need something to get me by and get my bronco back on the road....I miss watching cars move out of my way (plus my gf is a crazy ass driver :tinfoil)

Edit: I'll have to go and actually look and I'll post pics of what I do to get that piece out
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,989 Posts
Sorry but buy why are the letters in all the threads so large....? lol lol

I'm having a hard time understanding your language but I understand the new key cylinder lock broke inside while in the RUN position...did you attempt to use a sharp pointed tool in the "slot" just below the key cylinder where with a good push up inside it should pop out, but that it left the "tip" still inside leaving you with no key functions and now you can't get that out..?

I have a "dental pic" that I use for difficult situations like this because both ends are sharp, pointed with a slight angle on them to "grab/scrape" at things so you can work them out, it takes patience and maybe a magnet wouldn't hurt but I don't think it's necessary to swap columns for this, partial tear down maybe...lol lol

Once the key cylinder pops out normally you should see a snap ring then a washer with the indentical shape of the tip of the key cylnder end and then the "brass drive gear" also with the same shape in the middle where the tip fits into or still is...?

Once the snap ring and washer are removed you should be able to see the teeth on top of the brass drive gear and maybe with a small screw driver or dental pick "turn" the gear from right (RUN) to left (OFF/LOCK) position, they way to tell is the dash clock display should go out indicating power thru the ignition is now OFF otherwise the battery will run down. If for any reason the tip prevents turning etc. that's what the dentsal pic is for and now you're surgeon....lol lol

Inside the "metal column collar" where the key cylinder fits, on the other side is a small lower actuator with teeth that mates with the brass drive gear teeth where it's in it's own little compartment and the only way to get it out is to take off the steering wheel, unscrew the directional signal cam, lift it up slightly with the "harness" to stretch and lay it out the way, then unscrew the little locking block on the lower right that keeps the lower actuator partly in place then unscrew and completely remove that metal collar tilting it forward so it slides out. Oh yeah, you also have to unscrew the directional signal lever, it's spring loaded on both Tilt and Non-Tilt but NBD so if you get to that point you should be able to resolve this, get a new key cylinder and put it all back together.

The upper igniton actuator inside the steering wheel slides in a track with a tiny nipple on the end and the "loop" on the lower actuator goes on/over that nipple so when you turn the key to RUN/START, OFF/LOCK and AUX ALL parts have to "rotate" forward especially the ROD attached to the upper ignition actuator ( uses a 3/32 x 3/8 roll pin) at the top and hooks into a slot in the ignition switch lower down on the column.

That brass drive gear has to be "timed" correctly so you have all key functions i.e. RUN/START, OFF/LOCK and AUX.....AND if you look at the ignition switch below it's mounted on 2 column studs with 2 - 7/16"nuts, you'll notice the ignition switch has 2 elongated mounting "slots" for additional "timing" of the ROD so timing matches at both ends otherwise if the ROD fails to travel the correct distance when rotating the key it won't "trigger" ignition switch for RUN/START or anything else so you'll be forced to turn the key to RUN and jump start off the starter relay under the hood........ROYAL PITA EVERYDAY....

This assumes what I just explained is what you're talking to some, any or all degree........

The best thread for all of this is "upper ignition actuator replacement on an 85/w tilt" I believe by FSB member bronco boy, it's a "picture" step by step how to and you'll have a better sense of what I mean with the first few pictures.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

·
Forward Some Money
Joined
·
5,054 Posts
As I understand him, the tailpiece on the lock cylinder broke. Probably a AutoZone or really cheap Chinese lock.
Lock is non-ferrous so magnet wont work.
Needle nose pliers might work if the tips are small enough. Snap ring pliers have more action at the end. Those from HF are probably too big to pass.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,867 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Good Luck ~ :thumbup
I'm seeing the letters normal size :shrug

But anyways, I did jump the posts to get my truck home from where I work and had to use a screwdriver to turn the truck off. Now, the key will not turn back to the "RUN" position so, I can't jump the posts to get where I need to go now. The part that broke is the spade part that goes underneath the retaining washer/hardened washer and is now locked underneath it so I can't just pull out the broken piece. Once I pull the snap ring I should have no problem after that with replacing it, just didn't know exactly how to go about it until now. (Never had the ignition break INSIDE the column besides the upper actuator which has been replaced recently)

ANYWAYS, Thanks to everyone for their suggestion and links. I'll be getting the pliers tonight and take pics of what I did to fix it. :thumbup Might just add it to another thread about this process....

~Levi~
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,867 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
As I understand him, the tailpiece on the lock cylinder broke.
Correct. :thumbup

But the lock cylinder came from NAPA and just randomly broke after like 2 months. (thinking it was just a defect in the lock) But I'll see what happens tonight and post up what it was
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,989 Posts
My after thought was to use chewing gum because it's sticky, gooey and will latch onto things BUT I don't understand " the spade " part terminology , are you talking about the odd shaped "tip" on the end of the key cylinder that fits thru the washer and in thru the middle of the brass drive gear.......what's going underneath the "retaining washer/hardened washer", it's not like there's ANY room to work in there, how about some PICTURES because without them, honestly we're all just pissing in the dark, we need to see what's happening because your explanations regarding parts to me aren't making 100% sense OK....Sorry!

I'm know this stuff like the back of my hand and once you tear down a steering wheel/column to replace the upper ignition actuator, you're NEVER going to forget what's involved and what the parts are specifically called.

So PICTURES....otherwise do as I suggested and remove the steering wheel and column collar to get to the problem inside.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,867 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Sorry JK, I'm not entirely up to par on every parts name yet :goodfinge

Anyways, I had to walk all the way across town from work, to the parts store, and then home so if I don't make sense, sorry....I'm tired...

Now to the pics

What I saw when I pulled the ignition



After the Snap Ring was pulled



Washer removed



Gear back in place



Washer back in



After math to the lock cylinder





I have to take it all back apart tomorrow and I'm going to make sure the gear is in the correct position and clean all the sh*t out of it. Got cold as hell and it sucks when your using your dead phone as light at 11pm :banghead
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top