Sorry but buy why are the letters in all the threads so large....? lol lol
I'm having a hard time understanding your language but I understand the new key cylinder lock broke inside while in the RUN position...did you attempt to use a sharp pointed tool in the "slot" just below the key cylinder where with a good push up inside it should pop out, but that it left the "tip" still inside leaving you with no key functions and now you can't get that out..?
I have a "dental pic" that I use for difficult situations like this because both ends are sharp, pointed with a slight angle on them to "grab/scrape" at things so you can work them out, it takes patience and maybe a magnet wouldn't hurt but I don't think it's necessary to swap columns for this, partial tear down maybe...lol lol
Once the key cylinder pops out normally you should see a snap ring then a washer with the indentical shape of the tip of the key cylnder end and then the "brass drive gear" also with the same shape in the middle where the tip fits into or still is...?
Once the snap ring and washer are removed you should be able to see the teeth on top of the brass drive gear and maybe with a small screw driver or dental pick "turn" the gear from right (RUN) to left (OFF/LOCK) position, they way to tell is the dash clock display should go out indicating power thru the ignition is now OFF otherwise the battery will run down. If for any reason the tip prevents turning etc. that's what the dentsal pic is for and now you're surgeon....lol lol
Inside the "metal column collar" where the key cylinder fits, on the other side is a small lower actuator with teeth that mates with the brass drive gear teeth where it's in it's own little compartment and the only way to get it out is to take off the steering wheel, unscrew the directional signal cam, lift it up slightly with the "harness" to stretch and lay it out the way, then unscrew the little locking block on the lower right that keeps the lower actuator partly in place then unscrew and completely remove that metal collar tilting it forward so it slides out. Oh yeah, you also have to unscrew the directional signal lever, it's spring loaded on both Tilt and Non-Tilt but NBD so if you get to that point you should be able to resolve this, get a new key cylinder and put it all back together.
The upper igniton actuator inside the steering wheel slides in a track with a tiny nipple on the end and the "loop" on the lower actuator goes on/over that nipple so when you turn the key to RUN/START, OFF/LOCK and AUX ALL parts have to "rotate" forward especially the ROD attached to the upper ignition actuator ( uses a 3/32 x 3/8 roll pin) at the top and hooks into a slot in the ignition switch lower down on the column.
That brass drive gear has to be "timed" correctly so you have all key functions i.e. RUN/START, OFF/LOCK and AUX.....AND if you look at the ignition switch below it's mounted on 2 column studs with 2 - 7/16"nuts, you'll notice the ignition switch has 2 elongated mounting "slots" for additional "timing" of the ROD so timing matches at both ends otherwise if the ROD fails to travel the correct distance when rotating the key it won't "trigger" ignition switch for RUN/START or anything else so you'll be forced to turn the key to RUN and jump start off the starter relay under the hood........ROYAL PITA EVERYDAY....
This assumes what I just explained is what you're talking to some, any or all degree........
The best thread for all of this is "upper ignition actuator replacement on an 85/w tilt" I believe by FSB member bronco boy, it's a "picture" step by step how to and you'll have a better sense of what I mean with the first few pictures.
Good Luck ~ :thumbup
opc1:
