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Discussion Starter #1
You guys were a HUGE help last time, and now I've run into another electrical brick wall. About a month ago, i had to leave my bko outside overnight in the -10F cold. When I went to start it, nothing happened, not even a drain on the battery. So I popped the hood, looking for answers and in the end, stuck the key in the run position, stuck a screwdriver up to the posts on the starter relay and vroom up it started. After that, it was about 50/50 whether it would start with the key, or I'd have to pop the hood and start it. Now, it NEVER starts with the key. So I put in a new relay, no change. So I started metering. In the start position, I get about 8 volts through the small clip to the small terminal on the relay. Is this enough to trigger the solenoid? Or do I need to chase more wires down?

After it's started everything is great, charges fine, runs fine, shuts down fine.

Ideas?
 

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sounds like your ignition switch is bad

the key turns the tumbler which is connected to a rod that runs down to a switch mounted to you steering column

these switches go bad as they are made of aluminum and plastic and the plastic eventually pops loose
I had the same problem and replaced the switch ($9.00) at auto zone
good luck
 

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I was going to make a post but i think im in the same boat , i went to work today every thing was fine it was like minus 10 so i went out to start it up during the day and the ign. snaped , so i put a new tumbler in . Now when i turn the key i get power but it wont start and i cant move the column into drive. Chester do you have any problems with the column. I also jumped the selonoid let it run hoping something froze but it didnt work, anyone have an idea. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #8
No, I dont have any problems moving through the gears. Yours sounds like maybe the neutral safety switch is bad? Dunno, maybe one of the more knowledgeable owners can speak to that one.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
OK I pulled out the ignition switch and expected to see broken metal or plastic or something loose inside and it looks A-Ok. So I put it back in and lined everything up right and tightened up the column, and it fires up. Shut off, restart fine. So the switch may be near the end of it's life, but somehow I've convinced it to work a little longer. Good call!


Another thing, after reading the above post and doing more searches, I tried something. I dont think my bko will start in neutral, the key won't turn that far, it's locked out of the start position. This doesn't seem right.....I sould be able to turn the key to start in neutral, right?
 

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correct , you can only start you car in neutral or park anyother gear it wont let you even turn the key. Im having some similar problems in my 89 too start ups are well takes some time relays all new everythings goes i have great battery an alt. volts so, im thinking maby ignition coil. Do yours start but not turn over? and unsing the key can you even get it like close to starting or is it just a no go?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, the day after and it fired on the first turn of the key. The key switch positions seem a little 'firmer and defined' now. I think perhaps my ignition switch was off a bit or is just getting old.

I do however think my NSS is wrong, or out of whack. I cannot turn the key to the start position in anything lower than reverse ( I have an automatic). ( Try this with your battery disconnected! I don't want to hear someone went out and drove through the back of their garage ) In Neutral, it's locked out, but in park and reverse i can turn it. I'll work that out next time I'm under it.

Thanks all to who posted, once again, yall figured it out. :beer

Pulling that ignition switch and re-aligning it is cake, you two may want to give that a shot and see if anything new happens.

Good luck T MAX and capedunes.
 

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I figured out my problem had to tear the column down to the tree theres a piece on the ign. rod ass. that goes into the tree to unlock it its broke and jammed, so i think i am going to replace the whole column, unless anyone knows if i can get a replacement ign. rod ass. . I think it will be easier to put in a new column it was a bitch getting the old one appart. I dont think i can get it back to gether and working properly. Thanks guys.
 

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T MAX

Had that same actuator rod assembly go on mine two Decembers ago in front of a Ford dealership in a town a long way from home. It was obvious it wanted Ford parts and wasn't taking no for an answer so it stranded me in front of a Ford dealer (damn unreasonable female Broncos !).

The next morning I was in the Bronco the whole time holding a trouble light and passing tools to the super friendly master mechanic who taught me more in 1/2 a day than a one month course on columns could have.

There is a couple of special tools and pullers for getting that piece(which is critical to allowing the key cranking fuction at the different angles the tilt can get into) out and back in.

The way he was in and outta that column and the way he used a pick tool was awe inspiring. I vowed then and there to get some quality pick tools when I got back home and I did.

MAJOR TIP****************** LISTEN UP ALL NON CRANKING BRONCOS

I had thought the coil had died and swapped in a new one before taking it to the dealer (who more than earned his way out of being called a stealership). He told me it would have started that night before if I had done this;

He turned the key onto crank(nothing happened), reached low on the column, just below the dash, and shoved his pick tool into the column and pulled down. That thing not only rolled over but it started.

I was half pissed that I could have driven home that night if I'd known this, but realized that there probably wasn't a better Ford mechanic on the planet to have replace that actuator rod assembly quicker and diagnose the $11 column switch either.

SO IN CONCLUSION REACH UNDER YOUR DASH AND PULL DOWN ON THAT COLUMN SWITCH ACTUATOR ROD(with the key on) AND SHE'LL LIKELY START RIGHT UP.

He told me yes the switches die but they can also "walk" up the column and and get so loose the rod coming down from the key will not actuate the column switch(it's also a sign the $11 switch is about to die).

He also recommended I change that pot metal actuator rod assembly (Ford # E9TZ*3E715*B, $16.32 CDN). This took him half an hour and if I'd been able to do it I estimate even after my install lesson would have taken me most of the day.

He also recognized my round copper contact disc on the column was getting worn out and that was probably the reason my cruise was no longer working. Man if they'd had one in stock I'd have had him chuck one in !

Also learned about a super fix on our coil plugs. Mine's wires were nearly broken off. Part #9111 socket is a brand new coil plug with two wires going into it that have to be 10 gauge (little re-engineering there Ford ?) and come with blue solderless butt connectors on the end of the 18" long wires.

That was real lucky breakdown dieing in front of that particular Ford dealer !

Hope this helps y'all !

Sixlitre
 

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Sixlitre, that helps a ton i was about to put a bone yard column in tonite , now i will call the dealer ship and try to get the part, I just took the column apart and put it back together i should have no problem HOPFULLY. Thanks a ton.
 

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i had a similar probolem with my 1983 bronco the ignition wire went out instead of taking for ever to replace it and what not i just riged a push button start. connect a wire on the bat then to thw swtich then to the part of the selenoid that the starter is connected to.
 

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T MAX said:
Sixlitre, that helps a ton i was about to put a bone yard column in tonite , now i will call the dealer ship and try to get the part, I just took the column apart and put it back together i should have no problem HOPFULLY. Thanks a ton.
Sounds great, glad I could help

Can you take some pics for us a do a write up maybe after it's back together ? Man you got guts tearing that far into the column, but like you say it's easy enough to throw another column in if things go awry.

Within a year of my repair I purposely went out and scored an entire duplicate column (with keys, tilt and cruise) just to toss in the attic as a spare. May never use it but at least I'll have it.

Good luck tomorrow

Sixlitre
 

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Hey Sixlitre: is that part number for the actuator for a 1986 FSB ?
I'm just at that point, using pliers to move the pushrod back & forth and disconntecting the battery terminals just to be sure not to drain anything in case it's still "ON". In order to fix this bugger, you do have to pull the steering wheel off correct? Seve83 is another "GURU". Why do the build these things so complicated?
Thanks!
 

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JKossarides said:
Hey Sixlitre: is that part number for the actuator for a 1986 FSB ?
I'm just at that point, using pliers to move the pushrod back & forth and disconntecting the battery terminals just to be sure not to drain anything in case it's still "ON". In order to fix this bugger, you do have to pull the steering wheel off correct? Seve83 is another "GURU". Why do the build these things so complicated?
Thanks!
Glad to help out JK

Steve ain't just another guru, he's the one who taught me. Half the time I'm just regurgetating what he told me. I do have the odd original idea and thought, but most of my Bronco knowledge stems from the different gurus here and on the old BBS Bronco forum, where a lot of us came from.

Yes that is the FoMoCo # for the 86 tilt column actuator white pot metal rod that is busted in your column.

Steve's got me off on another tangent of thought. I saw the pic where he slipped the later 87-91 steering wheel onto his 83 column.

Not only is the rim twice as thick and padded as even my "wheelskinned" 86 padded rim, but you get the more modern cruise, which he says will work on our columns !

My horn and cruise push areas are starting get get pretty tattered so that'll be the route I'm going !

It also is early enough so it comes without an airbag, which I cannot abide !

Sixlitre
 
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