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Discussion Starter #1
My started died last week...replaced it.

Ran fine for about 6 startups and now when I turn the key I get nothing.

Battery is fine....all of my lights are working strong.

How can I test my ignition and my solenoid?

Does anyone have the wiring diagram for a 78 bronco?
 

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You can jump the solenoid with two old screwdrivers, make sure the transmission is in park (auto) or nuetral (standard). Did you clean the battery terminals?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Alright man. Thanks. Battery I'd clean, newer (diehard) and charged. Should the key be in the ON position when I try this screw driver trick? My wiring is pathetic.
 

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If you want the motor to run then have the key in the run position. If you just want to see if it will crank over then have the key in the off position.
 

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Certainly could be NSS.
 

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AKA: Butthead
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http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=MGI&MfrPartNumber=5898&CategoryCode=3389B

IMO, stop messing around with it! :/

Get a meter (or a buddy with a meter) to find the trouble
before you go and clear it up on yourself and not actually
"fix" it so it can return later. No kidding. :)

A meter is quicker and cheaper than just one wrong part
purchased and tried.

Don't know how? No sweat, use the meter on a vehicle
that's ok. Dig the meter leads into the battery's posts
(not the clamps) and read the voltage = ~12v.

Have a helper start the vehicle and you watch the meter's
needle, it'll drop down to ~11 volts while the starter is
working.

Have the helper rev the engine up just a little and hold it
there long enough for you to see the meter read 13+v.

On the one with the trouble...
The voltage will drop way down below 10v if the battery
is weak.

The voltage won't drop at all if there's an "open circuit"
between the battery and the starter. ...Like a bad relay
contact or dirty cable clamp or the relay not energizing.

You know, it's possible to have more than one problem
at once, BTDT many times! The meter will help you find
the second problem even if the thing starts, you might
find it not charging (going to 13+ volts). See it now? :)
A cheap analog meter kicks butt! LOL :)

This ain't rocket science, you can do this! :)

Retired railroad Signal Maintainer in AZ
 

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AKA: Butthead
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Certainly could be NSS.
x2

There's ways to figure that out without a meter but,
a meter can show you that circuit is-working-or-not
quick as it takes to connect the meter to it.

Is the starter relay's (mounted on the fender apron)
coil getting 12 volts? Negative lead on ground, positive
lead on one of the little terminals, then try the other
little terminal while the helper tries to start it.

Alvin in AZ
 

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A. Test the (S) side (right) of the "starter relay" to see if it is conducting voltage thru the cable down to the starter motor, no voltage no start....these relays are cheaply made for the most part, prone to failure so put a Motorcraft or Bosch on now or add to your wish list.

Check my video on www.supermotors.net/17406 ~ Starter Realy Ground -dtd 2/26/10 or click "my flip video library and scroll, it's a quick easy way for grounding it..

B. Check www.broncolinks.com under the transmission section: Illustration ref. "Point A", in some cases the PRNDL column shift linkage may be out of sync with the transmission vs a NSS issue, "things" ie: bushings or bolts get loose and sloppy over time where we have to jiggle or hold up the shifter arm while starting the vehicle.....lol lol....:rofl:

On my 86 AOD all I need to do is, pull the column shifter down into the D position and secure it or have it hold it in place so it doesn't move then go underneath on the drivers side and loosen the "column shift linkage bolt" at the transmission "TAB" just enough to click the TAB all the way back until it stops, then 2 clicks forward and tighten the bolt, replace in P and done.

Anything similar adjustment like this could help eliminate starting problems you know....


Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I tried the solenoid jump with the screwdrivers and I got nothing but a small spark....and I am talking small.....like a spark from taking your shirt off in the dry winter months.

So I went out and bought a voltage meter similar to this at Autozone today:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ca...arentId=01-10&itemId=1871-10&productId=347019

Let me know what to test and where.

I am still looking for a 78 Bronco wiring diagram....anyone have a link to get one online?
 

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Sounds good Brother, go back and read the first paragraph of post #8 and proceed from there and also check the connections down below to the starter motor.

Check and clean ALL the cable and wiring loop ends converging onto the "starter relay" this will eliminate any possible resistance at the spot and use Motorcraft or Bosh if you need to replace the starter relay the quality is much better.

If you haven't done it, ground the NEG battery cable to the frame by removing about an inch of the cable covering down to the wire core and secure it on a clean spot and if you look in that area there should already be OEM pre-drilled holes you can use with a hold bracket, you can't have enough continuity with these older vehicles.

Make sure the battery is fully charged, but an 850CCA battery on your wish list and the BKO will thank you everyday.....lol lol


Good Luck ~
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I tested the battery cables and it jumped between 11.50 and 6.50 with the DC 10AMP selected on my volt meter....it was sparking a bit too.

Then I tested the solenoid and it was jumping between the 4.5 and 3.5 range.

This was all with no key in the ignition.

JKossarides....thanks for your info....I will continue to test here and there and make sure everything is tight and solid. Motorcraft and Bosch sound good to me. Thanks for the tip.

Just a side note....I am parked on a slight hill for the first time since I owned the vehicle....and I used the parking brake for the first time. I just bought this Bronco in February. I love it!

 

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Looks like a very nice Rig Brother ~ :thumbup

When parking on inclines facing up or down, get in the habit of putting the parking brake on before you put it in Park, obviously after you've come to a stop, ...lol lol....one foot on the brake and the other on parking brake, place in park then shut off the engine .....

It's easier on the column shift linkage each time go you drive it...


Good Luck ~ :beer
 

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Anxious to see the results as I'm having almost the EXACT the same problem. I've had trouble starting before (nothing happens with turn of the key, no sound, nothing) but the battery is good. I played around with the column shift, moving it back and forth from D to P several times and then suddenly it came alive on the key turn. I know I need to look at the shift linkage.

This time is different, Battery is good, but this time I get a really loud click at the relay by the battery and then nothing.

Looks like I'm going meter shopping as well!

Didn't mean to threadjack, just wanted to chime in on a similar problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
OK.....more testing. I turned my map lights on and they stay on until I turn the key to the on position. Then they dim to very low. I can't even get my stereo to come on in any key position!

Testing the Starter Relay was easy because there are exposed wires......but the other items I want to test I am unsure of the wires and if I should cut, test, and solder back together....?

I need an ignition removal tool too!!!!! How the heck do you get those off!?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Solenoid is getting power....I think it is clicking once in a while when I turn the key too.
and these two other spots are getting power too.....any suggestions?



 

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Does the atrter have a small solonoid too? or is it just the stock style?

If it has solonoid on it ala mini torque starter then check the small red wire that actuates the solonoid. If it gets corroded this will happen.

If not then i Would also have starter checked if its easy to get off. Sometimes burned open brushes will do this. My brush wires in the starter burned in half and there was no way it would start with no brush power. Where did the starter come from? New or Reman? Could be defective.

So ou have 12 volts all the way down the circuit to starter? I might have missed this in the explanation though I did see amper ratings
 

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Discussion Starter #18
No the starter doesn't have it's own solenoid. The starter is a Duralast from Autozone and it has a Lifetime Warranty. I paid 10 bucks more over the other brand. To get the warranty. I am sure if I take it off autozone will test it for me. It is a 10 minute removal and 10 minute reinstall. Thanks fir your input.
 

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I am watching this as well similar problem cannot find anything wrong yet the thing resets and starts when I pull and reinstall either battery cable.
 

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I am watching this as well similar problem cannot find anything wrong yet
the thing resets and starts when I pull and reinstall either battery cable.
Well this thread ain't-going-anywhere-fast until an analog voltmeter
is used to figure out (for 'im! :) where the trouble is...
http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=MGI&MfrPartNumber=5898&CategoryCode=3389B
...the (ignored ;) instructions are in post #6.

Butthead in AZ
pps- Why is there such a strong opposition to using a meter to hunt
electrical trouble? Anyone got any ideas on that?
 
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