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1992 5.0 4x4 Eddie Bauer E4OD
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a ground loop going to the hot Red/Light Blue wire on the fender Solenoid. I do not get 12v when turning the key. I thought the output R/L-B from the ignition switch was bad but it is not.
Solenoid works otherwise if I jump it out or across the two posts.
The only other point in the circuit is the Neutral Safety switch on the trans. The starter solenoid Red hot wire is not in ground loop.
 

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Yo Sully,
To save you time and for better responses, please fill out your Bronco info with location, year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. .
Bronco info is now able to be put under your user name.
Click your profile button in the top right and go to account settings.


On that first page, named Account Details, scroll down to "Vehicle Info" and type in up to 100 characters.

Now you can simply enter your information in the text editor and click save.

The starter relay mounted on passenger side inner fender is grounded through its body to the fender. Ensure area is clean and relay is securely mounted.


How To Test The Ford Ignition Control Module (Distributor Mounted);
The wire that feeds the ICM ground is the number 6 circuit of the ignition module connector.
Put the multimeter in Volts DC mode
Connect the black multimeter test lead to the ignition module connector's number 6
circuit wire (with the appropriate probe).
Connect the red multimeter test lead to the battery positive (+) terminal.
Your multimeter should register 12 Volts DC.
CASE 1: The multimeter registered 12 Volts DC. All is good in the neighborhood, since this test result confirms that the ignition control module on your Ford is getting Ground.
The next test is to check that the ignition control module (ICM) is activating the ignition coil to fire spark, for this test go to: TEST 3: Ignition Coil Switching Signal.

CASE 2: The multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts DC. Re-check your multimeter connections and make sure you're testing the correct wire.
If your multimeter still doesn't indicate a Voltage between 10 to 12 Volts DC; then this means there is an open in this wire. Without this Ground the ignition module will not function. Repairing the circuit (or adding ground) should get your engine to start." @ Part 2 -How to Test the Ford Ignition Control Module (Distributor Mounted)

Ignition Switch Logic Test in 87-91
View attachment 152831

Test the ignition system mechanical operation by rotating the ignition switch lock cylinder through all positions of the ignition switch. The movement should feel smooth with no sticking or binding. The ignition system should return from the START position back to the ON position without assistance (spring return).

When you turn the key to "RUN/START" and there's no spring resistance feeling it usually because the actuator inside steering column is broken or ignition switch is loose.
Overview; "...The ignition rod is attached to the upper ignition actuator by a 3/32 x 38 roll pin ($0.12 each) and the rod needs to be straight so it travels enough to trigger the igniton switch but it's a chore to take it off as you need to remove the steering wheel and tear it down to the (Tilt or Non-Tilt) knuckle, usually down when you replace a broken upper ignition actuator. The ignition switch located on the lower part of the steering column has slots so it can be adjusted by loosening the 2 -7/16 nuts and move it up or down but a lot depends on what's wrong up top with some of the other parts, ie: ignition rod, key cylinder, lower igniton actuator and upper igniton actuator. These parts are timed so when you turn the key to RUN they all need to move forward/downward so the rod triggers the igniton switch to START the BKO..."
 
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