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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

When I shut my car off sometimes the ignition switch wants to go past the off point and into accessory mode (that is accessory mode right?) even with the key out.

I will turn the car off and it will give me the beep beep beep noise warning me it isn't off all the way and then i will have to jiggle the switch back and forth with the key out of it until it stops beeping at me.

What's the problem here you guys think?

It's not a major major concern but it is definitely annoying.
 

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Maybe the tumblers are getting worn in the actual switch in the column, it's not an ignition switch issue because the key actuates a rod that moves the ignition switch under the dash,

Mine does the same from time to time, I can pull my key out while she's running.
Sometimes when I shut her off and pull the key out the dinger still goes off like the keys on the ign but all I have to do is cycle it all the way to acc and then to off or lock position.

Don't worry even if it turns without the key in it. It won't start, at least mine won't, mine has to have the key for it to start. Yours might be diff.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah I'm less worried about it starting and more worried about accidentally leaving it in accessory mode. Though I guess because it beeps at me to let me know that's what's going on, I'm at a pretty low risk of that. I just don't like having to fiddle with it after I've already cut it off.
 

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Issues like this usually consist of a couple of different possibilities, you can buy an ignition key "cylinder" for the column, inexpensive and easy to replace.

The other side of the coin is that if you turn the key off and remove it and the engine is still running you might want to consider it might be the "upper ignition actuator" is about to break inside the steering wheel requiring a tear down to replace the actuator which can be found in the Help section of most auto parts stores mfg'd by Doorman for $10.00., especially if you have to "rotate" all the way over towards the dash with little spring return to start the engine......this assumes you have this actuator set up in your year BKO.......FSB member "bronco boy" has an original post "upper ignition actuator replacement for a 1985 steering column" or dialog similar to that......just look it up, it's a picture step by step How To and gives you an idea what you might be dealing with.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Actually 92-96 actuators are a dealer only item and they are a bit*h to change.
I'm leaning towards the lock cylinder being your problem.
 

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As long as the ears are not turning separately, I would assume the lock is "ok" as you described it.

For best results, take the lock out. Spray electrical contact tuner cleaner (or equiv) liberally into the keyway. Use compressed air to dry it and blow the excess out. Re-lube with dry graphite. That should fix the lock.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Issues like this usually consist of a couple of different possibilities, you can buy an ignition key "cylinder" for the column, inexpensive and easy to replace.

The other side of the coin is that if you turn the key off and remove it and the engine is still running you might want to consider it might be the "upper ignition actuator" is about to break inside the steering wheel requiring a tear down to replace the actuator which can be found in the Help section of most auto parts stores mfg'd by Doorman for $10.00., especially if you have to "rotate" all the way over towards the dash with little spring return to start the engine......this assumes you have this actuator set up in your year BKO.......FSB member "bronco boy" has an original post "upper ignition actuator replacement for a 1985 steering column" or dialog similar to that......just look it up, it's a picture step by step How To and gives you an idea what you might be dealing with.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup


I checked it out and the ignition key cylinder is absolutely the problem.

And apparently under 20 bucks to buy? Winning.

Thanks man! :armed:armed
 

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I checked it out and the ignition key cylinder is absolutely the problem.

And apparently under 20 bucks to buy? Winning.

Thanks man! :armed:armed
They range in price from 13 bucks to 45 for a Motorcraft.
Don't get a cheapy, unless of course you like changing these things.

And don't go anywhere near Autozone
 

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Discussion Starter #9
They range in price from 13 bucks to 45 for a Motorcraft.
Don't get a cheapy, unless of course you like changing these things.

And don't go anywhere near Autozone


The one I saw on bronco graveyard must be a cheapy then, it's under 20 bucks.

Going to go ahead and order the motorcraft one. I'm a huge fan of buying the best quality part the first time even if it costs you more.
 

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Hey firefighterw Would you mind posting some pics and any tips for doing it? If it's simple enough I'd do it too
 

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Thanks for this great tip!

My collar spins freely. When this happened on my ranger, I replaced the cylinder and got a locksmith to cut the door portion of the key onto the new ignition key, which was only half cut.

I could do that again, but since I have the original Ford keys for this truck, I dont want to.
 
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