[MR_Q]

Hello all,

It looks my father broke his bronco again. This is what happened as he tells it. He backed the truck up to the barn, roled the back window down, shut the truck off, put something in the back, used the dash switch to role the window up but the switch didnt work. Used the key and it went up fine, put the key in the ignition to start the truck up, but the truck didnt turn over, and the window wont go up or down with the switch or the key.

Im guessing the back window is unrelated to the starting problem but I could be wrong

I went out and looked at it, and it seems like something in the steering column broke. The key turns to the "run" position and the fuel pump comes on, but it doesnt have any "resistance" like it does when the starter engages. The key just stops turning. I tried putting the truck in Neutral. Still no luck and now I cant get it back into park.

I did some searching and read about somethng called the "ignition actuator". Would that most likely be whats broken in this case? Or is it something else?

Im going to need to get it fixed sometime this week, but I know dick about mechanics, and Im hoping someone here would be willing to hold my hand while I do this.

Thanks, and sorry for the long post.

 

[SigEpBlue]

Yeah, sounds like a broken actuator. There's a write-up in the Tech Write-Ups forum, methinks. :toothless

 

[OCsurfrider]

Here's an excellent in detail tech write up:

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70454&highlight=ignition

 

[OCsurfrider]

And by the way, it's easiest if you use a wheel puller. You will need 1/4" X 4 1/2" machine thread bolts to for your wheel puller. The one I bought didn't have that size so I got them at Home Depot.

 

[butch87]

And by the way, it's easiest if you use a wheel puller. You will need 1/4" X 4 1/2" machine thread bolts to for your wheel puller. The one I bought didn't have that size so I got them at Home Depot.

my 87 with a stock ford wheel didnt have those bolts i had to go out and get 5/16 x 4" 20 or the 8 mm 4" bolt is what i used. 1/4 " is was to small for my 87
I just got the wheel off today after work so im going through the same deal as we speak.

 

[MR_Q]

I took it all apart today to find the problem. You were right, it was the actuator. It wasnt as hard to do as I was afraid it would be.

I think I may have broken my horn cover. But Thats fine. I scratched my dash a bit, but Ill probably just color it in with a magic marker or something.

I have a question. The gear selection display is controlled by a little red thread looking thing. When I put it all back together, where does that thread hook on to?

A mechanic at the ford dealer told me to get my wheel off by prying lightly on the metal in the wheel with a claw hammer and tapping the center with another hammer. Worked great.

Also I found that the actuator was broken flush with the column. What I did was I drilled a hole in the top of the broken piece and pulled it out with a pair of needle nose plyers.

Thanks for all of the help, folks!..... Now I just have to get it back together and fix the rear window again, lol

 

[OCsurfrider]

Scroll Back up to the link I included in my first post. Look at the fourth picture up from the bottom and you will see where the red thread goes.

 

[butch87]

Well i thought i had the same isue with the actuator but no dice. its either super dirty and not enough grease so the actuator got stuck on the on position or its binding up. i have to greas it all back up and see here are a few pics.

The actuator seems gummed up so ill clean it with brake cleaner and then clean up the actuator hole and lube it up. Anyone got any suggestions for a good lube for the steering column?

For cheap insurance im going to replace the ignition switch while its tore apart and scotch brite the steering column shaft and regrease the bearings.


I also found my next project hidden beneith the driverside rug.. :shocked

Time for some welding before winter hits.

 

[butch87]

ok i went through and did the whole steering column actuator deal and everytime i go to put the battery cables back on it throws sparks. could the selenoid be stuck open? or the starter stuck with the actuator being in the start position? or do i have to some how adjust the ignition switch on the column? i put the key in the at rest position then placed the ignition switch on top of the studs and tightened it down.

it sparks when i have the key in the ignition and when its not in the ignition ?

need help asap.

 

[butch87]

thanks steve i guess its gonna have to wait then. i cannot find my haynes book anywhere to get the procedure to adjust the ignition switch.

the reason why i guestioned the starter selenoid is because they truck kept cranking until the battery basically died and i didnt know if it got so hot that it welded itself together inside the selenoid. So i went to run to pepboys to grab a selenoid but they were closed so i figured id go steal the one off my mustang i dont know if it makes a difference but it says diode suppressed in the selenoid from the mustang.

Well im hoping its just selenoid issue and not a short or a ground issue somewhere, but it didnt sound like the starter was engaged when i tried to put the battery cables on this time, so maybe it is just the new ignition switch has to be adjusted, but i did get the full sweep of the key even the acc..

Wish me luck maybe ill see if i can find a diagram for the ignition switch adjustment.

If i have to ill pay alldata for a new subscription since mine ran out a few months ago.

i am gonna try the starter relay on the fender and switch it with the one out of my mustang it should be the same , same motor same starter basically.

 

[butch87]

thats what it was the starter relay was bad it must have burnt up. I put the one from my mustang in and it started right up first crank. It started smoking though something must have gotten on the headers cause it was white smoke and then it seemed to burn off and go away.

Thanks for everyones help.
Butch