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Discussion Starter #21
Andy351 said:
even 600 degrees is a VERY hot engine bay.....

600 *is* very hot for the engine bay as a whole, but I wouldn't be surprised if you could hit 600 down between the exhaust ports for #5 and #6 with thinwall headers, right where the #6 sparkplug port is.

I dunno, maybe I'm insane.
 

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Your not insane sewiv, it sure can get close, especially if you have headers on yours. The whole engine bay doesnt get that hot like some are posting, its only really hot right beside the exhaust manifolds, or even hotter if you have headers. The accel extreme 9000 wires handle the 1200f at the boots, where they come close to touching your manifold or headers. The rest of the wire is 600f, the accel kit is really a good deal considering the wires run $80 for the set of wires just by themselves, but you get what you pay for in life.

jb77714, the msd makes good stuff too. I just chose the accel kit because some of the components, mainly the wires are a higher quality and headers are my next upgrade in the near future. But everyones usually has a brand they stick with.
 

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Should be ok, but I'm not really sure about the I6. My set of wires came with 10 wires total and 2 coil wires. This is all so you can match up the lengths to be close to your stock ones.

So I have 2 extra plug wires and an extra coil wire.
 

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Optika1 illushun said:
think i can get by with using the ford racing wires on my 300? i figured id order the 302/351 wires and keep the extra two as a spare...
Theres a recent thread round here where I went to the trouble of finding the Taylor SpiroPro wires part number for the 300 for a guy.

Summit has the specific custom fit sets in blue, black or red for $40.00

Sixlitre
 

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Optika1 illushun said:
did a little calling and a local place price matches summit and i can have my stuff sooner.

YES, thanx sixlitre and sorry for teh thread hijack.
Optika1

Ain't my thread and it does seem very related IMO so you shouldn't get your tail feathers flamed.

Yes, I had that same problem getting Taylors in stock last July for my (then new to me) Lincoln Town Car. I dearly wanted to buy black Taylor SpiroPros but everyone said 3 weeks to order.

C'mon Taylor ! Ford not make enough small block engines over the past 46 years to make it worth your while ??????

I can accept a couple of days or a week, but three weeks ? That just bad business ! I didn't think of them as a "Chev-esque" company, but maybe they have turned into one.

Like you, on advice from someone here, I just went to the Ford stealership and they beat the heck out of the speed shop price and they had nice quiet, sedate looking "Lincoln" black in stock.

Sixlitre
 

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was doin some research while on the can :brownbag

anyways............ was lookin at this Jegs catalog I borrowed from my Bro-in-law and found this stuff:

Jegs 49k volt TFI coil part #555-40112 $32.99:



Jegs Cap & Rotor Kit (listed for the 5.0) part #555-40405 $24.99:



Jegs 8mm Spiral Core Wire sets part #555-40231(5.8) #555-40123(5.0)
$29.99

No pic but they say:

Jegs Website said:
Our spiral core design begins with a strand of Kevlar® which is wrapped 32 times per inch with a fiberglass strand that is coated in a stainless alloy and covered with conductive latex. This composition allows the wire to operate at one tenth the resistance of a conventional carbon core conductor while meeting O.E. RFI requirements. The outer jacket is constructed of 2 layers of heat resistant silicone. Each layer is separated by a fiberglass reinforcing braid for added pull strength. The spark plug boots are also made from heat resistant silicone. Every kit includes a set of numbered wire markers, a set of wire separators and a package of dielectric grease.
I dont like Jegs website. you cant plug in your ride and see what fits. If any one was to order this I would do it over the phone and MAKE SURE IT WILL FIT. The catalog and website differ on what fits. We know the MSD stuff is the same for the cap/rotor/coil for 5.0 & 5.8. So it stands to reason that the same is true for other brands. However for the wires they say "with HEI Cap" for both engine sizes. HEI????

So the good news is that the total $$$ amount is:

$32.99
$24.99
$29.99
---------
$87.97 + handling (shipping is free just like Summit)

Sounds good, now we just need a guinnea pig :brownbag
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Yup, that's right, 13* is to the "right" of TDC. Clockwise to advance (on the 5.0 at least, I'm not certain about the 5.8 since I don't have one).

Did you warm the engine first? Did you pull the SPOUT connector? Just as importantly, did you put the SPOUT connector back?

What did you mean by "12* off"?
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
Maybe you've got a cam in there that's been degreed? It seems that it'd run like total crap if you were running at 2*ATDC, but if you were running okay then, and not okay now, maybe there's something up with the marks? Has the dampener spun on the the crank?

15 degrees is a lot to change all at once. Maybe back it off a bit (5 degrees or so) and see what happens. Or hook up a vacuum gauge and adjust the timing that way.

Stupid question: Are you on the right cylinder with your timing light pickup? #1 is the front cylinder on the passenger side.
 

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stangmata50l said:
Phew (saves self embarrassment)

I was 2* ATDC :brownbag
Take heart in the fact you had the wisdom to measure your timing first

before you starting mucking about. Listen to Sewiv and hook up a vacuum gauge to one of the intake nipples.

Make danmed sure it's warmed up and the SPOUT valve is disconnected, then turn the dist until you reach the highest vacuum reading. Once you're there, read the timing light, then back off 2 degrees and tighten the dist clamp bolt.

Re-check the timing and test drive her. If it still don't feel "right" then back off two moore degrees until you find the sweet spot.

Like Sewiv says maybe someone slipped in a cam on you or quite possibly your balancer has crept around on the center on you due to aging rubber.

If you haven't done it already sand paint and mark your balancer to be sure and make sure you're using the timing mark and not the center of the timing scope hole to line up the timing marks against.

Sixlitre
 

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Discussion Starter #32
stangmata50l said:
Another tool to buy. :banghead :chili:
At least it's a cheap one.

I know for a fact it's the stock cam....the balancer I can probably buy. Anyway to check it?
Grab it and twist it? If you can grab the outside and turn it (engine off, of course), the rubber has gone bad. Of course, if it had turned 10 degrees, you'd have a tough time driving without a bite splint, due to the vibrations. I spun a balancer on the 302 in my `75 Granada, and it was amazing how bad it got.
 

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im gonna get a vaccum guage and try that tommorow...also im gonna pick up the msd coil for my 5.8...and gap the plugs to .055...sound good?

ive been trying to find a way to find a good spot for timing with the new cam

dc

stoopid question: on the timing thing...do you set the timing when the numbers are on the flat edge of the pointer or in the curve...flatedge right
 

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Discussion Starter #34
DcSkater602 said:
im gonna get a vaccum guage and try that tommorow...also im gonna pick up the msd coil for my 5.8...and gap the plugs to .055...sound good?
If you don't already have a good cap and rotor and wires, it'd be a good time to change those as well.

stoopid question: on the timing thing...do you set the timing when the numbers are on the flat edge of the pointer or in the curve...flatedge right
Yes, flat edge.
 

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Andy351 said:
even 600 degrees is a VERY hot engine bay.....
a stock engine with stock manifolds can very easily push 400 deg i've measured many over 500 so you could definatly exceed 600 deg around the headers especially if you are running a little lean or have been running the engine at high rpm's. i ran accel 8.8 with my headers and have never had a problem although i don't know their temp rating off hand. my headers have been glowing occasionaly after extended periods of abusive fun.
 

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I did a search and failed to find where anyone had done this on a 5.8L (351W) and how many degrees to advance. I'm short on theory so no basis to finger it out myself other than blind luck and searching.

Anyone have any suggestions/experience on plug gap and number of degrees to advance timing in a 5.8L for this mod????

Thanks!

:^D
 

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I got an 8227, with FoMoSpt 9mm wires, and MSD dizzy cap and rotor....gapped to .55 for a week, to let the computer re learn, and then bumped timing to 13.5*.....runsz sweet......
 

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danmick said:
I have already purchased the coil, cap, rotor, and wires. I am also looking into installing an MSD ignition box. If i do that, should i still gap the plugs to .055 and advance the timing to 13.5*?
My truck runs pretty smooth but i am looking for complete and efficient fuel burn to hopefully raise my MPGs (or GPMs).
Yes
 
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