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Discussion Starter #1
I think I've finally narrowed my starting issues to the ignition wire from the starter. First of all that small wire from the starter goes to the ignition, right? I might have a short in that wire. Just curious where it goes because I want to try to change it.
 

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I think I've finally narrowed my starting issues to the ignition wire from the starter. First of all that small wire from the starter goes to the ignition, right? I might have a short in that wire. Just curious where it goes because I want to try to change it.
What kind of starter do you have? A Direct Drive (Top) or PMGR (Bottom)? Big cable is 4 gauge or larger and the small wire is 12 gauge. The Solenoid in the graphic is actually a Starter Relay.


 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies. The one I have is the one on the bottom. Right now the only way it will start is if I take that small wire and touch the bare wire on the right side post on the starter relay (with the key on).
 

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To test for a short take a meter and attach it to the wire and ground. That will tell you if it's shorted. Otherwise it could be the relay. I think they are $20-30.
 

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The one I have is the one on the bottom. Right now the only way it will start is if I take that small wire and touch the bare wire on the right side post on the starter relay (with the key on).

With the PMGR Starter, usually:


- The "S" (Starter) Post is on top and comes from the Primary Ignition Key (with Key-On and in Start mode).

- The "B" (Battery) Post is on the right and has a Battery+, Alternator In and Starter Power Cable to the Starter.

- The "M" (Motor) Post is on the left and has the smaller wire that goes to the Starter Solenoid.

- The "I" (Ignition) Post is on the bottom and only used on carburated Duraspark Ignitions.



If you happen to have a Starter Relay with an "I" (Ignition) post and installed the Starter Relay upside down, you may be using the "I" post on top instead of the "S" post which will not activate the Starter Solenoid as it is only active when the Start Signal is sent to the Starter Relay. Look for an imprinted "S" and "I" on the small Starter Relay posts.


In summary, be sure that you have your Starter Relay wired correctly. Otherwise, if your starter only works when you touch the "M" wire (Starter Solenoid) to the "B" post (Battery+), you have a bad Starter Relay.

My guess is that you have the Starter Relay upside down and have mistakenly connected the "S" wire to the "I" terminal.





 

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Discussion Starter #8
I definitely have it attached to the "S". And I do hear that the starter relays don't always work, even new. And I had a guy test it for me at Advance Auto. Like I said earlier I just bought that one last week. Maybe I'll just buy another one...Thanks again.
 

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x2 on the volt meter but if you dont have on just take a positive jumper wire from your battery and touch it to you s terminal as a test. if it cranks its not the relay. my s terminal has wire hooked up to a push button because my key kept jamming and breaking the gear off the end of the cylinder when i would go fron run to start. and make sure your getting a good ground at the solenoid
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Can it possibly be my ignition switch, because without the key in it, the switch will go further than its supposed to and I have to turn it backwards to get the key lined up right to turn it. Maybe something inside is broke...I don't know...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok, so I did the battery to the "S" and get the same click...but it took about 20 tries b4 it finally cranked and started. Can my 2 week old starter relay be bad? And in the 2 weeks I've had it, my truck only started once using the key.o
 

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when you say "click" do you mean from the starter itself or is the click comming from the relay. do you get the same results and sounds using a jumper wire as you do your key. all your key does (on the starting part) is send a positive charge to the s terminal to cause the relay to close and send power directly from the battery to the starter. if the jumper wire yeilds the same results its most likely not the key/ ignition switch. see if auto zone will warranty swap your relay, and it might be time to test your starter assuming the battery terminals are clean and tight,the cables are not all corroded and dont have crazy hight resistance and the engine is wel grounded. and i would pick up volt meter soon, it would make this easier and it will pay for itself in the future, very handy tool.
 
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