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Discussion Starter #1
Howdy all!

Just a heads up, this is going to be a review and a little bit of a technical write up for those of use (myself really) who aren't very knowledgeable about these things. So to save some people hopefully a lot of heartache and research, this will kind of make this process easier.

Anywho, I recently ordered black projector headlights, the corner lights included, LED smoked tail lights, an interior LED conversion including gauges and AC lights, and exterior LED conversion kit.

So far I've completed most of the interior and all of the the exterior conversion (not the headlights or tail lights just yet). I ran into a bit of a snag with the gauge cluster lights, and will detail those later and will be working with TCM_GLX to hopefully resolve.

To point out, working with TCM_GLX has been probably the most pleasant experience I've had as far as any kind of customer service goes. I can't say enough good things about him, and his putting up with my incessant and plentiful questions (due to my ignorance pretty much). He's been very easy to work with and very quick to correct any mistakes.

So here's my story...

So I received two large boxes with very well packed headlights and tail lights, HID kit, some of the rear LEDs and an envelope with the rest of the interior LED conversion. I have no qualms with the packaging, and based on previous reviews it looks like no one in the past has had problems with it either. It was all very snug and secure. Nothing I received was damaged from the shipping process I believe.

First I got the tail lights. I pulled them out to look them over. I noticed right away something was amiss with both tail lights. The housing of the back of one of them had a gouge in it. Not sure what caused it, but on closer inspection it really doesn't hurt anything, and has sealant right behind it so it should be fine.

Side by side comparison to show the affected area.

Next, the other tail light, the undamaged one, I think it in transit had the lens separate from the housing a little which created a gap of unsealed area shown below. I talked with TCM and he said a blow dryer or some kind of heat and pressing it back together should resolve that, but in case it doesn't he's also sent me a tube of sealant so I can fix it. Just waiting on that before getting these in.

And a side by side that shows the difference in how much the lens seems to have pulled away compared to the other tail light.

Oh, and something else I might note. This is by no means a complaint, more of a heads up for future buyers that may not expect this. The sealant stuck pretty well to the wrappings of the headlights and tail lights. My tails stuck a lot more than the headlights though. It wasn't a big deal. Pulling it away slowly didn't cause damage, that or pulling a bit and cutting it. If you try to quickly it might pull the sealant out and effectively unseal the light.

I'm excited to get these in though, the glorious product:

Installing all of the LED's are pretty easy. The more involved ones were behind the AC controls and the gauges. Here's a pic of the rear LEDs. I didn't get a pic of the interior set. However, they were all portioned off in their own zip lock bags and had written on them which went where, which is great (for me anyhow). I did it all at night to give a better idea of the difference.

Here's before and after pics of the easy stuff:

And an after picture, because I forgot the before.

I have an ash tray light as well, but I haven't got that one in yet, it's a little more involved.

Here is a pic of the dome light up front. I haven't done the map lights yet as the ones I got weren't the right ones, but the right ones are on the way, woe for not!

A quick install tip on the AC guages. You have to pull the front strip off with a flat head screwdriver. It just pops right off, no big deal. You'll need to remove the top two screws I've already removed in this picture, then pull out away from the dash on the bottom where I'm holding this piece up. It snaps into the dash there.

I removed the shown two connectors. It wasn't difficult, just be careful as you can break tabs. I used a flat head screwdriver to do it. It makes accessing the lights easier.

In the below two pictures I am touching the two connectors you need to turn counterclockwise to remove them and replace them with the LEDs.

Oh, and as a side note, there is a hole in the bottom of the tail light that comes factory. I was concerned about the high humidity causing these to get permanently misty. So I'm just going to seal it up with the sealant that is coming from TCM.

There are 5 LEDs you receive to put into the illumination ports on the back of the gauge cluster. To start, to get to removing the gauge cluster you need to pull the trim pieces away from the dash on each side of the steering wheel. The below shows the right side, the left has an identical one. I just used a flat head screw driver for this too.

There is a screw behind each of those. You can use a 7mm socket to remove these. So the next bit doesn't have pictures, I'll do my best to describe it. You'll need to pull the shifter down into 1, as low as it will go to get it out of the way. The top part of the black trim piece covering over the gauge cluster, housing my 4x4 and low range buttons as well as my rear window switch, will come away, but will be blocked by the shifter and the steering wheel. There are connectors to the back of the switch and the buttons that you'll need to disconnect. The only other piece you'll need to disconnect is the shifter cable. It wraps from the bottom of the cluster behind the trim piece, down the left side of the steering column, around the bottom of the column and mounts on the right side of it. There will be a small (in my case, red) cable coming from this to wrap around a peg directly effected by the shifter when you move it. This is for moving the little red indicator left and right in the gauge cluster as you move the shifter, over park, drive, reverse, 2, 1, etc. You need to pull that little red cable off of the peg. Then, there is a black dial you can spin to pull away the cable from it's mount. You'll have to spin it a bunch to unscrew the cable from the mount. That, or you can pull the whole mount off, but I didn't do that. After pulling the cable from the peg, and unscrewing the cable from the mount, I unwrapped it from around the steering column and was able to pull the black face away after disconnecting the connectors to the back. Sorry for the picture-less convoluted explanation, doing my best here..

There are four more 7mm screws holding the gauge cluster in. Undo those and the gauge cluster will pull away. There are three large connectors leading to the back of it. They are easy to remove, two were pinch and pulls and one had a locking tab I lifted with a screwdriver. Below is a picture of the back of the cluster with blue circles to indicate the illuminating lights for the cluster. I numbered them as I will be referencing them by number further down.

For those of us that like ease, the cluster actually indicates which are for illumination with an "ILL"

Now here is where I ran into problems. Number 5 appears to need a shorter LED than what I was provided. I tried to get it in but it was too tall. In the pic below I have a comparison pic of one of the rear LEDs that appears mostly the same. I did it just to see if the slight difference in height was going to make it fit, and it did but the light didn't work, due to the connector I'm assuming. The one on the right is for going into the gauge cluster, it is slightly taller. So for now I've settled with a halogen for this.

Here is a picture to show the (what I'm assuming is) a sort of light diffuser to spread light inside the cluster.

And lastly....
I think it may be something to do with how the connector connects to the circuit board on the back, but they seemed to have more or less "gouged" the circuit board so there isn't good contact any more. Numbers 2 and 4 I'm having problems lighting up. The LEDs fit, but only halogens will light up in these. LEDs won't light up in these at all unfortunately, and I'm not entirely sure why. Looking at this it looks like I'd have to replace the whole cluster to get new contacts, or the board on the back, but I don't think I can do the board on the back. It seems kind of punched on there. I tried using known-good LEDs and such, and the only thing that would work in those two places was halogens. I can only logically conclude the contact isn't sufficient enough to provide enough power for the draw of the LEDs. But I'm no aficionado on the subject. I did note that the brass or copper (whatever it is) contacts on the board itself seemed gouged with black marks from the connectors. I tried cleaning the black away but it seems permanent. Suggestions are welcome.
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