[plug ugly]

rear hanger from ruff stuff.* captured by one bolt.* Will prolly need some side support

front hanger, also from ruff stuff.* captured by one bolt that is part of a factory crossmember

rear shot

shackle amgle, right about 42 degrees

made some new side pieces, to attch the hanger and slider tie in to.* I cut the old slider mount out, and the B post of the cage used to tie into the front hanger, so i have to still redo that

center of spring to center of spring is right about 4.5" inboard

also shows the combo pack of leaves I am using.* Its a mix of chevy 63's (2 plus big overload) and blazer 52's (2 older looking pnes, plus chopped down overload).* net me about 2.5 inches more lift than I had before.* Its very soft, especially without rear shocks yet.

relocated the breather as well, will move brake line drop here as well as adding a center limit strap.

still have lots to do, but might have it driveable by the meet and greet next weekend. Found out my locker was more broken than I thought, so I have to source another part. still need to finish weld the spring perches, bend up new brake line, and measure for shocks and mount those, but its close. My guess is it will be a little tippy, but i will let you know when I find out.

 

[broncomania]

its lookin good. how about a full pic of the back. i wanna see the tube stuff thats part of the bumper.

 

[dogonmut]

3 Werdz...

ANTI
Wrap
BAR

-Scott

 

[dogonmut]

Buds experiment with out one.

Um...I won't menchin that this is the 3rd time this has happened or any thing.

-Scott

 

[ToddACimer]

I guess I'll be the first to ask... What are you trying to gain by moving the spring inward? I know it would be minimal but wouldnt you get more "rear steer" I'd tend to guess you want more flex but how much better is it going to be?

 

[plug ugly]

BM, are you just wanting pics of the bumper? thats easy. I still plan to tie it into the frame from the outside edge, into near the shackle.

dogonmut, yeah, i alread have a antiwrap. hard to tell what I am looking at in Buds pic, but it appears that his main leaf has a long section of unsupported spring, which may be part of the prob.

todd, with a 4" stretch, there wasnt much off the shelf i could do to make my ride a little softer, and flex better although this was really a secondary concern. I had started out with 63's that were going to be in the same location, but it was much easier to just mount them under the frame, and it also protects the shackle a little, by being tucked in by the tank (it will be getting a new skid plate too). it should flex a ton now (way more than before), prolly more than I really need.

 

[Billingslee]

nice welds. it will be interesting to see how it does on the trails

 

[godless]

Spray some Dye pen on those welds. Its easy to do and cheap insurance..

Nice work.

 

[plug ugly]

whats dye pen?

 

[dogonmut]

dogonmut, yeah, i alread have a antiwrap. hard to tell what I am looking at in Buds pic, but it appears that his main leaf has a long section of unsupported spring, which may be part of the prob.

In the pic...
He got an a$$ load of wrap which bent the main leaf, then the U joint went bye-bye. An anti wrap bar would have kept it from happening. He knew it but you know how it is. The lack of realestate due to the narrow frame spacing of an EB and the fact he was planning a 4 link kept him from building one. Like most would have done he was tryin' to get one more run in before it went under the knife.

He's currently 4 linking the rear and going to 16" travel 2.5" Fox air shocks.

Looks good bro-bro.

-Scott

whats dye pen?

http://materials.open.ac.uk/mem/mem_dye.htm

I've seen your welds 1st hand in the past and your skills look much improved. Even though you had to weld against gravity, I think you'll be fine since they show no major signs of porosity.

...and good luck getting it clean enough to dye test anyway.

-Scott

 

[reptillikus]

Lookin good thus far :thumbup
Ive been considering this as well; i need to do something since the rear suspension is alot stiffer than the front.

 

[magnumpi]

so you could have run those 63's without inboarding the the hangers?

I guess you would have just had to move the factory hangers forward?

Interesting idea, i had never thought of it, apparently other people have thou.

 

[project86]

Very curious to see how this works out-- I have friends with Yotas and 63" springs, same pack as yours but without the Blazer bits, and they mentioned they were soft but they flex well. Will you run a swaybar?

 

[plug ugly]

you would have a hard time with the front factory hanger. I have stretched my WB 4" already, and tried to keep it the same. Figure the front hanger would need to be 6" approx, forward of where it is stock, which would put it under the body mount. You would prolly need to source some new hangers (F350 front spring, rear hanger might work) or go custom. The rear would be pretty easy, and close to the same spot.

Ill run a sway bar if need be, Im hoping not to, but will likely have to have one.

 

[chvyboat]

I think your welds look like shit and you need to do them all over again.

 

[chvyboat]

I think you will be pleased with the out come. Worst case it will be to soft which is easy to fix.

Side hilling will take some getting used to. I would bet you will end up running a front or rear sway bar.

Curious to see how much more soft the rear end of your bronco is compared to the rear end of my truck. And how much more body roll you have.

 

[bigbroncojeff]

i have those ruffstuff shackle hangers... i've been impressed with their brackets... i see you added a grease fitting to it... lookin good

 

[dogonmut]

If it's too soft and wants to unload when side hilling, you can always borrow some of Bill's gold chains, put them in an ammo can and us them as counter weights.

To keep your rig semi-sanitary, you'll probley want to remove all the chest hairs cought in them first.

-Scott

 

[plug ugly]

HA!

 

[chvyboat]

give me some time, I am thinking of a cum back.