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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

I'm in the process of installing new wheel bearings (inner and outer) on my 92 fullsize and have arrived at the section where I torque the inner nut to 50 ft/lb to seat the outer wheel bearing.

I'm now supposed to back the inner nut off by 90 degrees, I'm supposed to then install the slotted lock washer then advance and or torque the inner nut to where as the pin on the inner nut fits into one of the holes on the slotted washer.

My exact questios are, WHICH slotted lock washer do I use? Is it the one with 4 tabs extending OUT of the circle or is it the one with ONE tab extending inwards?

The second question is, how do you torque the inner nut with the slotted lock washer on? Am I supposed to be able to do that ?

I can't seem to be able to torque the inner nut once I put the slotted washer on with the tab extending inwards. Do I gradually torque the inner nut and keep doing that WITHOUT the slotted washer on it and do I keep putting in the slotted washer until the pin on the inner nut aligns with a hole?

This little piece of information is a show stopper for me :)

BTW, I used to have 5 screw stock FORD automatic locking hubs but now use manual warn locking hubs.

Thanks in advance!
Lee
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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17,747 Posts
First off, thank you so much for separating your post as you did. This was so much easier to read than people who cram a whole bunch of information into a huge, nonstop paragraph. :beer

Do I gradually torque the inner nut and keep doing that WITHOUT the slotted washer on it and do I keep putting in the slotted washer until the pin on the inner nut aligns with a hole?
Pretty much. Does your spindle lock nut set look like this?


Once you have the inner nut where it's supposed to be (after torquing, backing off, and re-torquing), getting the lock washer on there shouldn't be too difficult. Usually if I have to move the inner nut a little, I resolve on turning it so the nut is slightly tighter.

In my mind, it's not going to make a large difference turning a nut with 16 threads per inch another five or ten degrees. Plus if anything, the slight extra preload will be lessened as the bearings wear and the grease is pushed out of the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Excellent! Thanks very much for your answer SigEpBlue!

I got a package with 4 pieces in it from my Ford dealer.

The contents of the replacement parts consisted of the 2 adjusting nuts in your picture in addition to the lockwasher (4 outward tabs and one inner also in the picture),. I also got what the FSM appears to label as a thrust washer with a smooth outer ring and only one inward tab.

My setup didn't have the thrust washer (which I think is for F250's etc.) But I'm not sure since someone else took it all apart.

Now that I see the picture, I realized that I was using the thrust washer instead of the lock washer. I'll use the lockwasher with the 4 outward tabs and one inner tab and won't use the thrust washer.

I also understood what you meant when you said that I would gradually torque the inner nut untill the pin fit into one of the holes. I honestly thought you could somehow torque down the inner adjustment nut WITH the lockwasher on at the same time Duuuuh :)

Thanks again for the instructions. I "get it" now. I hope the Bronco cooperates when I go back to finish it up!

Much appreciated!
Lee
 

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Get yourself a fisherman's tool box and load it up with the tools necessary to do this. That will keep your driver and hub wrench together along with the manual lockout hex wrench. In time, you can collect those little pesky items that may break or be damaged when wheeling.
 
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