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imdabes
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

Back around, working on my master's now but am going to use my tax return to get some parts for the 96 bronco I picked up a couple years back. She's in beautiful condition but I'm looking to do some upgrades. The engine is a new rebuild with about 15,000 on it currently. I just ordered a high output alt and all the stuff to do a second battery. I also made an appointment to have a new exhaust built from the headers back. I have been looking around and was wondering if putting an edelbrock performer on would be a good idea.

Question is, if I buy the upper for what, 600 bucks or so, should I also buy the lower? And if I do the intake manifold, is there anything else i should do while I've got it off?

I'm also going to be converting my single DIN to double DIN at some point, and my suspension is pretty shot.

Oh, not the first bronco either, the stuff for sixlitre tune is also in the mail :p As well as upgrading all battery cabling to 0awg (30' should be plenty :D)

Good to be back!
 

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0ga wire is massive overkill, even if you install a 12K winch and more amplifiers/speakers than the truck can carry.
0ga wire is probably the best thing you can do to a stock electrical sytem in my opinion. That is as long as you do it correctly. The current running through the wire has less resistance the larger the cable is. I've seen 10 batteries hooked up, 4 alts and over 100' of 0ga wire in a truck and it still dies due to power loss (super loud system:toothless). 0ga is never overkill unless ur driving lego power bronco:histerica
 

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The 4ga wire is fine if your running all stock electrical equipment.. Will 0ga be better.. meh, better as in can handle more... but... will you notice any difference... No.. Unless you are putting massive loads on your electrical system, and in that case, you need to upgrade more than just the grounds..
Most of the time when people jump to 0ga wire, and see improvements, its usually because they cleaned all the ground contacts and replaced the old corroded wire with fresh clean wiring with good clean contact surfaces.. and just because you buy 0ga wire doesnt mean crap if you buy cheap crappy wire.. not all wire is equal.
So, If you plan to run a system, lights, winch, and what not... Then, sure, upgrade to 0ga wire, but for general use.. 4ga.. or even 2ga wire is fine. Is 0ga overkill? Yes.. but overkill rarely hurts anything besides your wallet. So Go with whatever your willing to spend and are comfortable with. Just speaking from my experience in competitive SPL competitions and audio system build ups.
 

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imdabes
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Discussion Starter #4
The alternator has nothing to do with an aux. battery. What's wrong with the current exhaust? What headers does it have? Without knowing what you plan to do with the truck, it'll be hard for us to tell you what qualifies as a 'good idea'. In general: keeping a stock running truck stock is the best idea because it will work better longer for less money & hassle than a heavily-modified truck. You're jumping all over the place without explaining what you expect to gain from any of these changes - what does the radio size have to do with the suspension? 0ga wire is massive overkill, even if you install a 12K winch and more amplifiers/speakers than the truck can carry.
The alternator is nearing death and struggles to deal with the stock system.

I'm putting in an aux battery and isolator because I've got a phantom draw, I suspect the stock alarm system. I'm going to be doing a lot of work in the next few months and waking up to a dead battery is annoying. I'll track the draw down and fix it at some point, but I plan on replacing the alarm as well, because I want to, and I have disposable income.

It has stock manifolds, and the current exhaust rusted through and fell off after the cats and is dumping right under the cab. I'm going to do a rear quarter panel exit dual exhaust, with either an xpipe or a 2 in 2 out muffler. I'm routing the pipes above the frame and doing full stainless.

I had a flip out in my last bronco and would like the challenge of sticking a double din in.

The suspension is shot and will be replaced at some point. 4 or 6" lift. No SAS planned but who knows.

0 ga wire cost 20$ more than 2ga, and future proofs me and ensures there are no restrictions in my electrical system.

When did a reason become required to modify our trucks by the way? I remember getting into this site while in Iraq and it seemed much more helpful.

All I'm asking is about the intake manifold. Is the performer an upgrade? Is it better than the stock manifold? If there was a choice between the two, would I be better off doing the install? And if I do the upper, is there anything else I should do while I'm in the engine, like hell, do the lower too, or rebuild the heads, etc.

The truck is my dd now, but more importantly, after searching for years, I came across a 96 bronco that is in beautiful shape and is a great platform to be my forever toy. I'm not street racing, I'm not competing off road, I am driving on the road and off the road. I'll keep this truck for the rest of my life and want to make it the best truck it can be. I don't need five hundred HP but if there is an intake that performs much better than stock I'll put it on.

I put the console from a 2010 f150 in it and wired up the floor shifter. Why? Because it looks nicer, is a million times better than the stock console, and I wanted too.

Is that enough of a reason? I didn't post in the tech section because I would have expected this response there, cmon man. I used to donate to the site and was planning on doing it again but responses like that make me think twice.
 

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When I re-wired my battery circuit I used #1 AWG. That is about as big as I would ever want to go. Going to 0 AWG wont gain you anything, and it will be more difficult to deal with. When you solder on the connectors, the solder runs back up inside the wire by capillary action and solidifies making some length of the wire fixed, as in non flexible. The more solder you pour in the connector, the more will run up the wire, so when you solder them on, just use the pellet and nothing more.

Most people use #2 awg. I think that is the ideal size really. But #1 is good too. I just think 0 is too big. Whatever you get, go to an electronic supply house and tell them you want battery cable, the best they have. Dont go to Lowes and get the crappy stranded stuff they have. It will work, but the stuff from the electronic supply place is cheaper and better.

Just my opinion, take it or leave it. This is #1 awg, almost as big as my finger.

 

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It has stock manifolds, and the current exhaust rusted through and fell off after the cats and is dumping right under the cab. I'm going to do a rear quarter panel exit dual exhaust, with either an xpipe or a 2 in 2 out muffler. I'm routing the pipes above the frame and doing full stainless.

...

I put the console from a 2010 f150 in it and wired up the floor shifter. Why? Because it looks nicer, is a million times better than the stock console, and I wanted too.
I would go ahead and put an x-pipe in while you have the chance. You'll help scavenging, although I cannot attest to the power gain you will receive. But hey, why the hell not do it all in one shot? I would.

Do you have pictures in another thread with that console installed? Sounds like a neat idea.
 

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When did a reason become required to modify our trucks by the way?
I agree whole heartedly

And if I do the upper, is there anything else I should do while I'm in the engine, like hell, do the lower too, or rebuild the heads, etc.
Might think about doing an injector rebuild... or at least replacing the injector o-rings while you're there. Valve cover gaskets...
And when you buy the ground wire.. dont get crappy wire.. "good" 0ga wire is close to $3-5 per foot.. But, that is also why "good" 4 ga wire also works... Competition 4 ga wire carries better than crappy 0 ga wire.. Just food for thought! Good luck with your mods.. seems like you have a pretty good handle on making ideas a reality. :beer
 

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So why are you whimping-out with cheesy 0ga when 0000ga is available? :shrugYou've seen a REALLY-BADLY-BUILT truck, then; and building it badly with expensive oversized wire didn't help anything. :thumbup I've owned 2 trucks with stock-size 4ga wires going to 2 batteries with no electrical problems.
Well simply for the fact that 0 GA is cheaper and more readily available.. plus that size wire will just look funny lol...

and when I said that, u may have missed it but that vehicle was running multiple amps and speakers.. hence why it still died.. the guy was still in the testing stage is y too.. he added another 6 batteries and his voltage stayed good.. and I wasn't saying the stock 4ga isn't sufficient, just giving my 2 cents.. :thumbup
 

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All I'm asking is about the intake manifold. Is the performer an upgrade? Is it better than the stock manifold? If there was a choice between the two, would I be better off doing the install? And if I do the upper, is there anything else I should do while I'm in the engine, like hell, do the lower too, or rebuild the heads, etc.
We don't know. You never told us what engine you have. It's an improvement on the 5.8, the 5.0 not so much.
 

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imdabes
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Discussion Starter #10
A battery charger would be a MUCH better workaround than a 2nd battery. It's better for the main battery, the alternator (even a replacement), and your wallet.It has never been a requirement. But if you're going to do things without any reason, paint it pink & build a wing on the roof. :shrugIf you hadn't stopped helping, it still would be. :thumbupNot enough to justify its cost. Probably not enough to notice or even measure.Then all it really needs is maintenance. ;)There's not one. Ford designed the original correctly. There's no significant hp/torque increase to be had without forced-induction.Think 753x - nothing you donate comes to me. :cry


Bahaha, reading this all put a smile on my face! Maybe it's just my reding comprehension, I read tons of snark in the first response, and tons of wit int his one!

To everyone else, I've got a 5.8. I already bought the 0ga, it was 75 bucks for 30', and its welding cable. It already showed up and its great quality stuff.

I'm just getting ready to do a bunch of stuff, and when my truck is apart I'd rather do as much as I can at once. Money's not really an issue if my truck comes out more badass. I'm heading to autozone tomorrow to check if they have any carpeting so I can carpet the MDF console section I built today, I'll take pictures anyway but hopefully I can finish it up. Problem is the console is curved a tiny bit and I don't have the skills to curve the MDF. I'm going to try but it may look bad lol.

I'm shopping for the x-pipe now.

Thanks steve, second post was just what I was looking for :) 800 bucks isn't worth it to me if I'm not going to notice the difference, that's all I was asking :p

PS, still in the National Guard, just a full time student now, MA in Non-Proliferation and Terrorism Studies :beer
 

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The alternator is nearing death and struggles to deal with the stock system.
Sounds good. I've heard the 3g alts are a good upgrade from stock.. but I kno nothing about em.. lol

I'm putting in an aux battery and isolator because I've got a phantom draw, I suspect the stock alarm system. I'm going to be doing a lot of work in the next few months and waking up to a dead battery is annoying. I'll track the draw down and fix it at some point, but I plan on replacing the alarm as well, because I want to, and I have disposable income.
Where do u plan on putting the aux batter? If u don't already kno, there is a post in the forum where the guy used a factory f250 tray... I'm not on a computer at the moment so I can't post the page. But I will when I get t o a computer for you...

It has stock manifolds, and the current exhaust rusted through and fell off after the cats and is dumping right under the cab. I'm going to do a rear quarter panel exit dual exhaust, with either an xpipe or a 2 in 2 out muffler. I'm routing the pipes above the frame and doing full stainless. .
If your going that far with an exhaust system, id personally upgrade to headers also...

I had a flip out in my last bronco and would like the challenge of sticking a double din in.
Factory location is only single din, but if u do plan on going double, post up in the build section cuz I may want to do the same. ..:thumbup

The suspension is shot and will be replaced at some point. 4 or 6" lift. No SAS planned but who knows.
I'm going the 6" route in the future.. i figure if I'm going to spend the money, y not go all the way... you may even be interested in a body lift. I've always been against them, but for around $150, y not....

0 ga wire cost 20$ more than 2ga, and future proofs me and ensures there are no restrictions in my electrical system.
Same here, if your gonna upgrade it, y not go all the way, huh? Like u said it's only 20 bucks difference and ensures no future problems:thumbup

When did a reason become required to modify our trucks by the way? I remember getting into this site while in Iraq and it seemed much more helpful.
There is no reason required, but sometimes it's good to let everyone kno your intentions for your vehicle so we can give input to hopefully help you get there.

All I'm asking is about the intake manifold. Is the performer an upgrade? Is it better than the stock manifold? If there was a choice between the two, would I be better off doing the install? And if I do the upper, is there anything else I should do while I'm in the engine, like hell, do the lower too, or rebuild the heads, etc.
ll be no help here. I'll let someone with more knowledge than me answer this question..

The truck is my dd now, but more importantly, after searching for years, I came across a 96 bronco that is in beautiful shape and is a great platform to be my forever toy. I'm not street racing, I'm not competing off road, I am driving on the road and off the road. I'll keep this truck for the rest of my life and want to make it the best truck it can be. I don't need five hundred HP but if there is an intake that performs much better than stock I'll put it on.
I hope to also keep mine forever...:thumbup

I put the console from a 2010 f150 in it and wired up the floor shifter. Why? Because it looks nicer, is a million times better than the stock console, and I wanted too.
Sweet!! Pics?? How hard was it??

Is that enough of a reason? I didn't post in the tech section because I would have expected this response there, cmon man. I used to donate to the site and was planning on doing it again but responses like that make me think twice.
Don't let anyone bother u too much on here.. some I think post just to get under your skin... but idk.. lol... i hope I at least answered some of you questions.. good luck:thumbup
 

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imdabes
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Discussion Starter #12
Sounds good. I've heard the 3g alts are a good upgrade from stock.. but I kno nothing about em.. lol



Where do u plan on putting the aux batter? If u don't already kno, there is a post in the forum where the guy used a factory f250 tray... I'm not on a computer at the moment so I can't post the page. But I will when I get t o a computer for you...



If your going that far with an exhaust system, id personally upgrade to headers also...



Factory location is only single din, but if u do plan on going double, post up in the build section cuz I may want to do the same. ..:thumbup



I'm going the 6" route in the future.. i figure if I'm going to spend the money, y not go all the way... you may even be interested in a body lift. I've always been against them, but for around $150, y not....



Same here, if your gonna upgrade it, y not go all the way, huh? Like u said it's only 20 bucks difference and ensures no future problems:thumbup



There is no reason required, but sometimes it's good to let everyone kno your intentions for your vehicle so we can give input to hopefully help you get there.



ll be no help here. I'll let someone with more knowledge than me answer this question..



I hope to also keep mine forever...:thumbup



Sweet!! Pics?? How hard was it??



Don't let anyone bother u too much on here.. some I think post just to get under your skin... but idk.. lol... i hope I at least answered some of you questions.. good luck:thumbup

Steves a good guy, I remmeber when I was very active the stupid noobish posts about getting more mpg or hp from the truck irritated everyone! I didn't word my first post well, and realized its been a year since I posted about the sweet catch I got with my 96. I know how to do all that, but my truck is stock, and has a good engine. I'm more concerned with making it last forever, and doing some good upgrades. If the intake won't matter, no need to do it.

I'll get some pics of the console up soon, its relatively easy, except our shift cable doesn't mate well with the console, so I used a lot of zip ties to secure it. It's basically just wiring in a relay so the shifter knows when your brakes are pressed and bolting it down, I also added an OD light.
 

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:rockon looking forward to seeing some pictures of the console, I need to build some type of pedestal/console for some actual gauges instead of the crappy ones in the dash.. but my couch is just so comfy.. lol Good luck on your build, as long as your satisfied, its a win!:beer
 

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On the backside, make several parallel score cuts to weaken the board so it's easier to bend. The deeper they are, the more they'll weaken the board, but the smoother the curve will be. Once you get the curve you want, backfill the cuts with a good wood putty (or just wood glue reinforced with the sawdust from the cuts).
This process is called KERFING... when I do it, I always go a little extra reinforced. I fiberglass the backside just to give me peace of mind... this comes from my custom audio background..
 
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