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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey fellas.

I have a perplexing delema. I am gathering parts to do a leaf sprung 44 SAS on my 89 Bronco. I found and axle that is complete and has good knuckles and what not on it to use for parts but the housing is to narrow the only housings I can find around here that are the right width are coil sprung. Well after doing some research I discovered that the leaf sprung 44's have the left spring perch molded into the differential. My question is.....

How have other people adressed the issue of welding leaf perches to a coil sprung housing? And did they have to weld to the diff or are the late model bronco frames wider than the late 70's pickups? I ask cause I am picking up a bare housing from a late 70's coil sprung ford for $45 and don't want to have another axle I can't use.

Also What are a set of Dana 44 flat top knuckles worth from the Junkyard? I found a pair of those yes a pair and I know they are better to have.

And finally I could use some measurements of a leaf sprung 44 sas IE what springs used and where to locate the perches on the axle and hangers on the frame. I was thinking about useing chevy half ton rear spring on the front or possibly stock rear bronco springs. they should give appropriate lift. Anyway thanks in advance.

I searched around a little and wasn't able to find the specific info I was looking for. I thought this thread might be interesting to someone else in my situation.
 

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whats the dilemma?....all i did was remove the pass spring pad and move it to the right spot and added to the spring pad on the drivers side by cutting a spring pad in half and welding it next to the housing.
 

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This might help, I'v been talking with project86 about his set up. I now have my leaf spring 44 from a 78 f250. His looks like it works really well.

No prob, it's a slow day at work. A few more pics are here: http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/...ry/16480/58530 , but I don't have a lot of detailed pics.
I started by cutting a section of 2x4 box tube to frame width, and capping w/ 1/4" x 5 plate. I set the front of the tube exactly even w/ the front bottom of the frame, and shaped the end caps to match the frame contour. It's bolted in place, 3 on each side and 2 through the bottom of the frame, 1/2" G8 hardware.

Hangers are 31.5" apart, 1/4' x 3.5 box tube with one side cut off and front capped. Eye of the spring is 1/4" back from the front of the crossmember, and locates the axle 1" forward from stock w/ K5 52" springs, bolted w/ 4 1/2" bolts per side to the new crossmember.

Shock hangers are typical F250 everyone uses, set up for 5.5" up and 8.5" down on a 14" Procomp shock. Ubolt plates: pass. is 9", driver is 10.25 w/ holes reamed slighly. Ubolts were from a kit for a Chevy D44, and housing needs to be ground at web for driver's side. Lower shock mount is a TTB mount cut in half, welded to Ubolt mount and braced (kinda hard to explain). Bumpstops are stock but spaced down using 2x4 box tubing.

Boxed the frame at the rear hangers using a cut down section of old frame fit in like [] on the pass side and ]] on the driver's side to leave access for fuel lines. Rear hangers are same as front and bolted to frame, shackle is stock Blazer but boxed.







Quote:
Originally Posted by project86
Thanks! There's a thread on it from last summer out there somewhere. It's a 78-79 F150 Supercab axle, uses 5 lug outers but with an F250 housing, so it's set up for 31.5" wide leaves. They're junkyard K5 rear leaves with a cut down second leaf added.
Overall, the swap was a little more expensive than I originally planned, but not too painful. The truck is more stable, keeps the tires on the ground and handles and rides better. Let me know if you want a detailed breakdown of what I used.


Quote:
Originally Posted by blair77
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
whats the dilemma?....all i did was remove the pass spring pad and move it to the right spot and added to the spring pad on the drivers side by cutting a spring pad in half and welding it next to the housing.
My dilemma is I was wondering if the coil sprung 44's have a narrower diff casting so you can place the left perch up next to it or if it doens't matter or what. I mean I just noticed that the leaf sprung 44's like I said have the left spring perch molded into the casting and the coil sprung 44's don't obviously. I mean I don't want to buy a useless axle.

Actually I am no longer buying one I have to go look at a house 2 hours away from where I live now (where I am moving to). And I got a call on my C6 I am selling and the guy that called me gave me a a complete '77 F150 front axle and ,matching 9" if I get it outta his garage. So I guess my dilema is solved. I may just coil spring it. Might be easier in the long run but man I wnat the flex of a leaf sprung front end. that will be so much nicer. and less maintance in the future.

Anyway. Any other suggestions? I am just curious.

Hey red do you have any pics of your front axle?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This might help, I'v been talking with project86 about his set up. I now have my leaf spring 44 from a 78 f250. His looks like it works really well.

No prob, it's a slow day at work. A few more pics are here: http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/...ry/16480/58530 , but I don't have a lot of detailed pics.
I started by cutting a section of 2x4 box tube to frame width, and capping w/ 1/4" x 5 plate. I set the front of the tube exactly even w/ the front bottom of the frame, and shaped the end caps to match the frame contour. It's bolted in place, 3 on each side and 2 through the bottom of the frame, 1/2" G8 hardware.

Hangers are 31.5" apart, 1/4' x 3.5 box tube with one side cut off and front capped. Eye of the spring is 1/4" back from the front of the crossmember, and locates the axle 1" forward from stock w/ K5 52" springs, bolted w/ 4 1/2" bolts per side to the new crossmember.

Shock hangers are typical F250 everyone uses, set up for 5.5" up and 8.5" down on a 14" Procomp shock. Ubolt plates: pass. is 9", driver is 10.25 w/ holes reamed slighly. Ubolts were from a kit for a Chevy D44, and housing needs to be ground at web for driver's side. Lower shock mount is a TTB mount cut in half, welded to Ubolt mount and braced (kinda hard to explain). Bumpstops are stock but spaced down using 2x4 box tubing.

Boxed the frame at the rear hangers using a cut down section of old frame fit in like [] on the pass side and ]] on the driver's side to leave access for fuel lines. Rear hangers are same as front and bolted to frame, shackle is stock Blazer but boxed.







Quote:
Originally Posted by project86
Thanks! There's a thread on it from last summer out there somewhere. It's a 78-79 F150 Supercab axle, uses 5 lug outers but with an F250 housing, so it's set up for 31.5" wide leaves. They're junkyard K5 rear leaves with a cut down second leaf added.
Overall, the swap was a little more expensive than I originally planned, but not too painful. The truck is more stable, keeps the tires on the ground and handles and rides better. Let me know if you want a detailed breakdown of what I used.


Quote:
Originally Posted by blair77
Thanks I can't view the link of pics. Try reposting thanks
 

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My dilemma is I was wondering if the coil sprung 44's have a narrower diff casting so you can place the left perch up next to it or if it doens't matter or what. I mean I just noticed that the leaf sprung 44's like I said have the left spring perch molded into the casting and the coil sprung 44's don't obviously. I mean I don't want to buy a useless axle.

Actually I am no longer buying one I have to go look at a house 2 hours away from where I live now (where I am moving to). And I got a call on my C6 I am selling and the guy that called me gave me a a complete '77 F150 front axle and ,matching 9" if I get it outta his garage. So I guess my dilema is solved. I may just coil spring it. Might be easier in the long run but man I wnat the flex of a leaf sprung front end. that will be so much nicer. and less maintance in the future.

Anyway. Any other suggestions? I am just curious.

Hey red do you have any pics of your front axle?
You'd have to cut off the wedges and weld on your leaf perches. Make SURE it's 77 or older if you really want leaf. 78-79 cast outer coil setup should not be used for leaf.

I would not bother honestly. If you really think your leaf setup will outflex a good coil setup you got another thing coming. Don't want to start a debate here, but it's a wash at best, with my nod going to coil setup. Simplicity I don't think the leaf setup is, and with mega flex, just look at the issues Dogonmut had with his binding and destroying bushings after every few runs.

I wanted mine setup as leaf in the beginning, but am actually happy I went with coil.
 

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My dilemma is I was wondering if the coil sprung 44's have a narrower diff casting so you can place the left perch up next to it or if it doens't matter or what. I mean I just noticed that the leaf sprung 44's like I said have the left spring perch molded into the casting and the coil sprung 44's don't obviously. I mean I don't want to buy a useless axle.

Actually I am no longer buying one I have to go look at a house 2 hours away from where I live now (where I am moving to). And I got a call on my C6 I am selling and the guy that called me gave me a a complete '77 F150 front axle and ,matching 9" if I get it outta his garage. So I guess my dilema is solved. I may just coil spring it. Might be easier in the long run but man I wnat the flex of a leaf sprung front end. that will be so much nicer. and less maintance in the future.

Anyway. Any other suggestions? I am just curious.

Hey red do you have any pics of your front axle?
Here....

http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/6130/33498

and to help out...heres what I did about the spring perchs....

drivers side...



pass side...

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You'd have to cut off the wedges and weld on your leaf perches. Make SURE it's 77 or older if you really want leaf. 78-79 cast outer coil setup should not be used for leaf.

I would not bother honestly. If you really think your leaf setup will outflex a good coil setup you got another thing coming. Don't want to start a debate here, but it's a wash at best, with my nod going to coil setup. Simplicity I don't think the leaf setup is, and with mega flex, just look at the issues Dogonmut had with his binding and destroying bushings after every few runs.

I wanted mine setup as leaf in the beginning, but am actually happy I went with coil.
He said it was out of an 77 f150. Iam getting all the coil stuff ie radius arms and what not as well. I just like leaves better they seem simpler. I don't want to start a debate cause i am sure there is one on here already. I am just stating my preference. Anyway what exactly is wrong with a 78 and up coil sprung 44. Just curious. Thanks for your input.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

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Thanks red very helpfull. I am still looking for someone who leaf sprung a coil sprung 44. Also why did you choose leafs versus coils? And how much travel do you have on yours? it looks like a ton.
It was what I could find at the time...also it seemed to be an easier install, plus I can "tune" the leafs to how I want...
 

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He said it was out of an 77 f150. Iam getting all the coil stuff ie radius arms and what not as well. I just like leaves better they seem simpler. I don't want to start a debate cause i am sure there is one on here already. I am just stating my preference. Anyway what exactly is wrong with a 78 and up coil sprung 44. Just curious. Thanks for your input.
78-79 coil axle there is nothing wrong with. I run one. but as I stated it's not a solid tube all the way out. the wedges went to a cast design so it's tube-cast-tube instead of the earlier ones that were solid tube with wedges welded on. I would not trust the cast area for use with a leaf setup.


Anyway, you may find there is more to setting up your leaves for proper pinion and caster alignment than you realize, not to mention mix and matching of leafs to gain the ride and height you wish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
78-79 coil axle there is nothing wrong with. I run one. but as I stated it's not a solid tube all the way out. the wedges went to a cast design so it's tube-cast-tube instead of the earlier ones that were solid tube with wedges welded on. I would not trust the cast area for use with a leaf setup.


Anyway, you may find there is more to setting up your leaves for proper pinion and caster alignment than you realize, not to mention mix and matching of leafs to gain the ride and height you wish.
I thimk I understand what you are saying. Well in the case that my axle is a cast housing. Will I be able to run my TTB lift springs.

Also Leaves are really simple to set up weld on hangers weld on perches locate the axle and bolt it together. Also Tune leaves is super simple my friend has been doing it on his 82 chevy for a long time and he has a ton of flex. But that again is just my opinion
 

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I thimk I understand what you are saying. Well in the case that my axle is a cast housing. Will I be able to run my TTB lift springs.

Also Leaves are really simple to set up weld on hangers weld on perches locate the axle and bolt it together. Also Tune leaves is super simple my friend has been doing it on his 82 chevy for a long time and he has a ton of flex. But that again is just my opinion
just remember, IF it's a 77 axle it will be solid tube,but yes, you can run your ttb springs if you choose to go coil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
just remember, IF it's a 77 axle it will be solid tube,but yes, you can run your ttb springs if you choose to go coil.
Thanks Shado. I have one more question. I found a d44 in the JY it is currently under a chevy and it has flat top knuckles on it. If I can pick them up right are they worth the effort to take them off? If so what would you all consider the right price for a set of flat tops?
 

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Thanks Shado. I have one more question. I found a d44 in the JY it is currently under a chevy and it has flat top knuckles on it. If I can pick them up right are they worth the effort to take them off? If so what would you all consider the right price for a set of flat tops?
Are you just after the flat tops then (not the whole axle)?

They have always been going for 150-180 range....this price assumes they are handed to you. if you have to take them off price should be less.

Make SURE this is what you are looking at:



things of note on these knuckles (which are used on my 8 lug chevy knuckle out swap):
From a disc brake equipped vehicle (6 lug pattern is differnent than a flat top drum brake setup, which you would not want).

Look at BOTH knuckles. If you saw a drivers side flattop it does not mean the passenger will be flat as well like in this pic where both are flat top. I've seen many K5 blazers in the Jyards with drivers flat top only. You CAN'T mill the passenger flat if it's not a true flat top (not enough material up top).

They also should have a consecutive number on the outside lower, mine do, which means they were a L/R matching pair.

Another nice thing with these flat tops is that they were already setup for knuckle under (i.e. from the factory the top of the knuckle arm for the tie rod was the larger part of the cone (it was drilled for TRE on top of the knuckle arm). This may not matter for you with a leaf setup if you're just thinking of highsteer, like this:

 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Are you just after the flat tops then (not the whole axle)?

They have always been going for 150-180 range....this price assumes they are handed to you. if you have to take them off price should be less.

Make SURE this is what you are looking at:



things of note on these knuckles (which are used on my 8 lug chevy knuckle out swap):
From a disc brake equipped vehicle (6 lug pattern is differnent than a flat top drum brake setup, which you would not want).

Look at BOTH knuckles. If you saw a drivers side flattop it does not mean the passenger will be flat as well like in this pic where both are flat top. I've seen many K5 blazers in the Jyards with drivers flat top only. You CAN'T mill the passenger flat if it's not a true flat top (not enough material up top).

They also should have a consecutive number on the outside lower, mine do, which means they were a L/R matching pair.

Another nice thing with these flat tops is that they were already setup for knuckle under (i.e. from the factory the top of the knuckle arm for the tie rod was the larger part of the cone (it was drilled for TRE on top of the knuckle arm). This may not matter for you with a leaf setup if you're just thinking of highsteer, like this:


Yeha this truck had flat tops on both sides. The JY wnat 60 for the pair if I pull them. I knew flat tops were better just wast sure why. Anyway thanks. I was just looking at the flat tops not the whole axle it was a chevy 44 so it would not work for my purposes. Anyway THanks
 
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