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EDIT:

You're welcome to read through the good stuff about how this came to be, but the Reader's Digest version is this: BikerPepe kicked in some cash to cover printing costs, my buddy kicked in some SolidWorks expertise to create the file and I contributed a stock panel and many trips to the print shop to test the various iterations. The file is now publicly available on "der Interwebz" on Google Docs...

PLEASE SHARE PHOTOS AND ACCOUNTS OF YOUR EXPERIENCE WITH THE FILE -- NOBODY I'VE SENT IT TO HAS TOLD ME ABOUT WHETHER IT WORKED FOR THEM. I KNOW THE TWO SHOPS I HAD PRODUCE THEM TURNED OUT VERY CLOSE APPROXIMATIONS (WITHIN 1/8") BUT WANT TO HEAR AND SEE FEEDBACK.

Thanks, Pepe, for the seed money and jowens1126 for trying to convert my Crayola wannabe originals to actual files... I finally had to just donate one to the cause and have my buddy Tim do a hands-on reproduction rather than rely on my artistic abilities.

Without further ado... the link. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BxdYTCrlkeWWdnJaWGVRQzdEcElOQmhYY050cUVMek9NVTJv
END EDIT


Having seen a handful of threads asking if anybody had good templates for the rear interior panels on a 1978-1979 Bronco, I just created full-size templates using a set of factory panels. If you want the template, you pay the rate to have them copied and shipped (large format copies are pricey but I will do it at cost so this is NOT a for-sale thread and hopefully won't need to go to the Classifieds). Honest cost -- no markup. Copies + mailing tube + postage.

Template includes knockouts for factory armrests. Passenger side had an ash tray and an optional knockout for the interior spare tire carrier. I think I even got all the mounting holes where they meet those little "rails" marked. The factory included a bead around the perimeter which is shown in the pics but I didn't attempt to include those.

If one of you wants to pay the scan charges, I will post the digital image files for free on the interwebz. I have no clue what they'd charge me for it but will get quotes if you're interested.

Assistant Template Artist Abigail not included.


Both panels are mirror images of each other (lined them up in the photo for demonstration) except for the ash tray and spare tire knockouts.


Not interested in making money on this -- I'd prefer to see somebody restore/modify their Bronco with these. (Please don't send it to the Classifieds, mods. :rockon)
 

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cute kid. ;)
Thanks. I'm partial to her myself.

hmmm... I can see what's up here and it's totally cool of you to do. Let's try to get this into a digital download format or something, then you're giving it to your fellow members. Technically, you are still "selling" something but I realize you're only covering cost to produce and ship to the recipient.
Hell... even if it's in digital... I don't have anything to print something like that out on.
I should have pointed out that you can send or hand-deliver the digital file to your local print shop, FedEx Office, Staples, etc. and they can print it for you.

Tough one. I'd hate to have to send this to the classifieds, where it might never be seen again. We could still leave a thread here and just point to one there... but that's kinda lame too. Tough call speedy... I'm going to leave it here.
That's exactly what I was trying to avoid. Hell, if we can get this scanned maybe I can create a separate thread with a link to it so that can become a sticky with a link to the free download and instructions on how to get it printed out. No sales.


AND... I'd like one of those. My ol' lady's '78 RXLT has 80's panels stuck in the back. They provide the armrest and ashtray, the even fit well over the wheel-well, but the ends are a crap-tastic fit and I've either got to trim them to fit properly or more likely, replace them with upholstered wood panels or diamond plate, if I'm feelin' real gaudy. ;)
This is exactly what I've seen in 20 other threads. Guys want to make something out of diamond plate or aluminum or plywood and just wish they could find a set of original panels on the cheap just to get the shape right. Get me a shipping zip code or would you like to contribute part of the scanning cost? :)
 

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Save the drawing in DXF format (that is the universal CAD drawing format) and post it on supermotors or another image hosting site. Then its out there for anyone to download.

If you need help translating it over to a CAD format I will be happy to help. If you post up your scan links, I can download them and either re-draw them or rework them to a CAD format. This way the dimensions wont drift and will be exact. It will also be easier and more universal to have a print shop print off a set. Its possibly cheaper to print a CAD file than a picture file as well due to the fact that pictures use ink for much of the entire image and CAD only uses ink for the actual lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Save the drawing in DXF format (that is the universal CAD drawing format) and post it on supermotors or another image hosting site. Then its out there for anyone to download.

If you need help translating it over to a CAD format I will be happy to help. If you post up your scan links, I can download them and either re-draw them or rework them to a CAD format. This way the dimensions wont drift and will be exact. It will also be easier and more universal to have a print shop print off a set. Its possibly cheaper to print a CAD file than a picture file as well due to the fact that pictures use ink for much of the entire image and CAD only uses ink for the actual lines.
I like your suggestions. I'll call a local shop (or three) for scan quotes. If it's not too bad I'll foot the bill. Then you can turn it into a DWG or something.




I hope this goes through. I was interested in making some for my bronco as it had none when I got it. I had to go to the junkyard and buy some really crappy ones to trace.
The paper version is easy enough. If you want to wait for the digital file...well...we'll see how that goes.
 

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This is a great idea. I will be looking for this one of these days when my build get's closer to being finished. Thanks for doing this! :thumbup
Hope it helps! (And don't thank me yet! All I've done so far is trace a panel onto a couple sheets of butcher paper! :thumbup)
 

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Speedy, you're offering a great favor to those in need. I know, I just made a pair of diamond plate rear panels, your templates would have been invaluable to help locate the retaining holes. I've a couple of pictures in this thread http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4508210&posted=1#post4508210

Pepe, good call. With no financial gain, it's free help.
Well, thanks. I hope somebody gets to use them -- and I owe you an apology. I "was gonna" do this about a year ago and they've literally sat against my wall that long. I was about to throw them in the rafters and decided to just get it done. It took me maybe 15 minutes from start to finish but I put it off for a year.

Obviously you got them done (and they look sharp, btw) but had I not been so lazy, you'd have been able to use templates.

If it can be put on the computer screen, I can convert it to CAD. doesnt matter what format it is. PDF is actually easy.
Excellent! I take it you will need some kind of scale marker, though, right? I can mark off a scale indicator on there if needed.

Yea well, trust me... it's a fine line and I know someone is going to try and take advantage of it, sadly. :rolleyes:
I know, but once they're scanned and FREE TO THE WORLD, this won't be a for sale thread at all. We'll just make a new one (speedy's first sticky? :toothless) with only the links and no talk of money. We can put together some instructions for people on how/where to get them printed, etc.
 

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Finished... check this out.







I put a scale on them since I don't have a flexible measuring tape. You have to remember that the scanner they're going to use is a slit-scanner, not a platen scanner so the measuring tape would have to "feed" through it like the top of a copy machine.

Anyway -- I had a factory Ford door panel with the P/N D5TB-1023890-AW-RH.6 molded into the back, so I used that. The mounting holes in the plastic were shot to hell so I drilled clear through the panel where the original holes were and made a mark where the screw hole should be on your panels. The window crank hole was a bitch to make round, so I made a mark dead center and noted beside it the correct hole diameter since the drawing was wavy.

I also had a lower door panel that isn't found on every truck, but that one had lots of holes in it that were almost certainly not factory. I marked the ones I could tell were original and put dots where the extra(?) holes were.

All drawings have a scale indicator on them, as well as notes on what holes do what... except the two perfectly round ~1" holes on the rear panel -- anybody know why those are there? They were upholstered over at the factory, never punched so I don't know what they are.

Did what I have the tools to do. Hope it works out for you guys. I'll go get them scanned tomorrow or Friday. Spent the better part of 4 hours on these three little templates between stripping the upholstery off and making my notes all over them. :rockon

Oh well. It's for a good cause. The first guy to use them owes me pictures of his handiwork. :beer
 

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Awesome! I need to build all 6 pieces for mine. I was going to use diamond plate as well. I'll keep an eye on this thread...
 

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A couple of weeks ago I took a photo while my son cut the diamond plating, I didn't think I'd use the photo but posting it here may inspire others to DIY the panels. He's using an angle grinder to cut the final shape, (only wearing a welding helmet to prevent the sparks, instead of goggles). A little filing and it goes straight in.

A standard-size sheet of diamond plate of 4' x 8' costs between $80-120, enough for both rear trunk panels and extra for other projects.

 

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Ok gang... got them scanned this morning. Need an email address to send it to you. It's a *.dwf file right now. What I'd like to do is have jowens convert them to *.dxf (or similar) and then mail back to me for confirmation on the measurements. Also - if it's not too much trouble, maybe you can add the actual measurements to the drawing...?

(Remember, I had to trace them with a Sharpie so it'll be within .125-.25" but I'd really like them to be completely accurate so people can use a plasma table or just not have to use a grinder to make them fit just right.)

If you can mail me the *.dxf, I will print it back out, lay the piece on it and correct/double-check all measurements.

Anybody who wants the raw file -- WITH THE UNDERSTANDING THAT THE DIMENSIONS ARE REALLY CLOSE BUT PROBABLY NOT EXACT -- let me know. I'm into this for a little short of $20 at this point. Not too bad.
 

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ok I got it open. I had to convert it to a Tiff file to get it to read which is a bummer. But I am working with it.

One thing I wondered was, is the top edge supposed to be a straight line or does it drop off from one end to the other? There just doesnt seem to be a straight line on this whole thing.

I guess what im really asking is, how exact is this tracing?
 

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Ok I have a rough draft of the side panel done. I need some more info on these 8 sets of double holes around the wheel well.

How far apart are the centers of each hole in the pair?

I think what I am going to do is draw up the questions I have onto the rough draft so you can make some measurements for me. This way I will be able to get it as accurate as possible. I will post it up tomorrow.
 

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Ok I have a rough draft of the side panel done. I need some more info on these 8 sets of double holes around the wheel well.

How far apart are the centers of each hole in the pair?

I think what I am going to do is draw up the questions I have onto the rough draft so you can make some measurements for me. This way I will be able to get it as accurate as possible. I will post it up tomorrow.
I think that's a great idea. I just went out and pulled them down or of the rafters again before work. That way I can measure and verify. Using a Sharpie here, not a scanner...

The top edge of the side panel is bone straight - 60" from the leading edge to the BEGINNING of the downward curve at the rear. The rear edge is not straight - more like two straight sections with a bend in between. Bottom edge is straight except for the wheel arches. Front edge is straight and at a perfect 90-degree angle to the top edge.

once I get the questions I will get your answers. Those peanut-shaped holes are a pain in the ass...different centers for several of them. Turns out I think I missed one of them where the PO cut out a new speaker hole. I have just the very bottom of the hole here so I will carefully measure that one. For the actual measurements on those, I think I will dig up some graph paper and photograph it with the template laid on top of it for you to get the dimensions precise. They're not conjoined circles...more like fat ovals with a slot in between.
 
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