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I guess for $75 shipping I could buy some pneumatic shears from harbor freight and go get a 18 gauge sheet of metal for another 60 or so.

I just figured by the time I run around and buy things I don't have and buy the materials then spend the time cutting them $190 might not be that bad of a deal. yes I was just going to tack weld it every few inches around the to and front, then drill and spot weld it around the bottom braces and add a small piece of angle down the rear for support. (And since I work a real job when I am not working on my hobbies those 4 hours getting and cutting could be put towards installing and finishing.)

I could go with a heavier steel for a little more money. I just thought 16 or 14 gauge would be over kill.
I totally get you on the time factor, that is why my 78 project has been untouched in almost a yr
I am thinking of bring the frame somewhere and tell them to call me when it is perfect and black!
my lack of time has me looking at every way to same time and as they say,time is money,you have one or the other but never both at the same time!
I now gladly pay to buy some things prefinished so to speak as I have to put a big price on what little time I do have

If you add some maybe small angle steel around the bottom to spot it to and use the original mid area support, spotwelding the 18 should be fine
no real difference than if it was factory fitted inner liner I guess
after all,you are not trying to make a dump truck box to haul huge ass rocks!



and then I look at the other side of the coin, I get to buy a new tool !
 

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well There is a place here in Orlando that has an 8 foot table. If your not against a 3 hour drive each way you could come down here. They did some work for me a while back. At least you would know its not going to get bent in shipping.
Or how about I give you $75 for gas you drive it to me and help me install it :)

That way we both know it is done the right way! :thumbup
 

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The only vehicle I have that would fit them is the bronco, and it is not worthy of any kind of road trip. My U joints and bearings, shocks, ball joints are just about ready to go. THey are so bad right now they chewed threw a set of tires in under 10,000 miles. Its not going anywhere except around town till all that is done and I can get a set of tires that arent cupped to death.
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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I was going to reply to the thread at the top but seems someone has closed it.
sorry about that FSU. For some reason (probably testing or something) one of our autoguide folks closed and re-opened the thread... but it didn't appear to re-open properly.
I opened it again because there was supposed to be feedback on these templates that so much time and effort was put into.

with your permission... I would like to merge this thread into that one.
 

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Do you think I could use fiberglass around the bottom edges to make them look seamless before I put on a thick coat of bedliner? I plan to put the liner on in 2-3 sprayed on coats so it will be close to 40 mil thick on the inside, that should hide almost any imperfections I would think.
I think a nice bead of seam sealer would be better as it may allow some flex that the fiberglass wouldn't
I love the brush on seam sealer
give yourself a nice thick bead and hit it your finger tip in a rag soaked in lacquer thinner for a super smooth surface just like you do with your bathtub
quick and easy and no sanding required!
flexible too
 

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I haven't got the metal ones in yet. Behind on this project probably be in the next couple weeks. I will update as soon as I have them.
 

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Finished... check this out.







I put a scale on them since I don't have a flexible measuring tape. You have to remember that the scanner they're going to use is a slit-scanner, not a platen scanner so the measuring tape would have to "feed" through it like the top of a copy machine.

Anyway -- I had a factory Ford door panel with the P/N D5TB-1023890-AW-RH.6 molded into the back, so I used that. The mounting holes in the plastic were shot to hell so I drilled clear through the panel where the original holes were and made a mark where the screw hole should be on your panels. The window crank hole was a bitch to make round, so I made a mark dead center and noted beside it the correct hole diameter since the drawing was wavy.

I also had a lower door panel that isn't found on every truck, but that one had lots of holes in it that were almost certainly not factory. I marked the ones I could tell were original and put dots where the extra(?) holes were.

All drawings have a scale indicator on them, as well as notes on what holes do what... except the two perfectly round ~1" holes on the rear panel -- anybody know why those are there? They were upholstered over at the factory, never punched so I don't know what they are.

Did what I have the tools to do. Hope it works out for you guys. I'll go get them scanned tomorrow or Friday. Spent the better part of 4 hours on these three little templates between stripping the upholstery off and making my notes all over them. :rockon

Oh well. It's for a good cause. The first guy to use them owes me pictures of his handiwork. :beer
This is really great stuff. Thanks for making this effort!


Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk
 

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Thanks for the new link... The file is only for One of the rear panels. Do you have the files for the other rear and front door panels also?

Thanks so much!
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Thanks for the new link... The file is only for One of the rear panels. Do you have the files for the other rear and front door panels also?



Thanks so much!
I never even attempted to do the front panels, so can't help you there.

The rear panels are identical minus the ashtray cutout (passenger only). They're a MIRROR image, though, so if you're cutting diamond plate or something you may end up with the peanut-shaped holes facing the wrong way (or the textured side of the plate facing the wrong way).

I'd suggest cutting both in a cheap media (thin plastic, for example) and confirming fit prior to cutting the expensive stuff.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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EDIT:

You're welcome to read through the good stuff about how this came to be, but the Reader's Digest version is this: BikerPepe kicked in some cash to cover printing costs, my buddy kicked in some SolidWorks expertise to create the file and I contributed a stock panel and many trips to the print shop to test the various iterations. The file is now publicly available on "der Interwebz" on Google Docs...

PLEASE SHARE PHOTOS AND ACCOUNTS OF YOUR EXPERIENCE WITH THE FILE -- NOBODY I'VE SENT IT TO HAS TOLD ME ABOUT WHETHER IT WORKED FOR THEM. I KNOW THE TWO SHOPS I HAD PRODUCE THEM TURNED OUT VERY CLOSE APPROXIMATIONS (WITHIN 1/8") BUT WANT TO HEAR AND SEE FEEDBACK.

Thanks, Pepe, for the seed money and jowens1126 for trying to convert my Crayola wannabe originals to actual files... I finally had to just donate one to the cause and have my buddy Tim do a hands-on reproduction rather than rely on my artistic abilities.

Without further ado... the link. https://drive.google.com/open?...d=0B_vub54z-YcMaVBYdDg5ZzI3ckU
END EDIT


Having seen a handful of threads asking if anybody had good templates for the rear interior panels on a 1978-1979 Bronco, I just created full-size templates using a set of factory panels. If you want the template, you pay the rate to have them copied and shipped (large format copies are pricey but I will do it at cost so this is NOT a for-sale thread and hopefully won't need to go to the Classifieds). Honest cost -- no markup. Copies + mailing tube + postage.

Template includes knockouts for factory armrests. Passenger side had an ash tray and an optional knockout for the interior spare tire carrier. I think I even got all the mounting holes where they meet those little "rails" marked. The factory included a bead around the perimeter which is shown in the pics but I didn't attempt to include those.

If one of you wants to pay the scan charges, I will post the digital image files for free on the interwebz. I have no clue what they'd charge me for it but will get quotes if you're interested.

Assistant Template Artist Abigail not included.


Both panels are mirror images of each other (lined them up in the photo for demonstration) except for the ash tray and spare tire knockouts.


Not interested in making money on this -- I'd prefer to see somebody restore/modify their Bronco with these. (Please don't send it to the Classifieds, mods. :rockon)
You still have templets?
 
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