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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally got tired of my truck smelling like mold all the time so I tore into the dash to find the source of the leak. The attached pics show my findings.:cry

Any recommendations on the best way to clean it up and patch it?
 

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my bko ate my money
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wheatherstripping adhesive or RTV silicone might do it,

as for cleanin it up or dryin it out id take the top off and leave it in the sun or just park it in a hot sunny parking lot with the windows down for a day
 

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Yooman is right, though if you've gone to as much trouble as you have already, the seats and thus the carpet come out relatively easily and can be power washed, deodorized as neccesary and dried on a line. I say this because I had some bad leakage living on the coast and got some whitish mildew from hell deep into the carpet which eventually required replacement. Search for a thread detailing powerwashing the carpet and it has lots of pics on removing and reinstalling the carpet. Hell, I even put down some mold proof thermal barrier sound deadening stuff on the reinstall. Really nice blue EB by the way!--Buzz
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
wheatherstripping adhesive or RTV silicone might do it,

as for cleanin it up or dryin it out id take the top off and leave it in the sun or just park it in a hot sunny parking lot with the windows down for a day
Thanks for the advice. I did a little more water leak testing with the yard hose and that is the only leak I could find. It leaks quite a bit though. I've had the problem as long as I've owned her it just became more obvious since I moved to Tennessee (weekly rain vs twice a year in NM). I am going to clean the area with alcohol to get all the dirt off and plan on using some kitchen and bath adhesive caulk (in pic below) because I have 5 tubes left over from remodeling my house. After it cures I will leak test it and post pics.


Yooman is right, though if you've gone to as much trouble as you have already, the seats and thus the carpet come out relatively easily and can be power washed, deodorized as neccesary and dried on a line. I say this because I had some bad leakage living on the coast and got some whitish mildew from hell deep into the carpet which eventually required replacement. Search for a thread detailing powerwashing the carpet and it has lots of pics on removing and reinstalling the carpet. Hell, I even put down some mold proof thermal barrier sound deadening stuff on the reinstall. Really nice blue EB by the way!--Buzz
My carpet is only about a year and a half young Buzz! See, I replaced it because of some bad chemical stains from the previous owner. I too added sound barrier I purchased from JC whitney. I'm hoping I can just dry it out after I button it all back up. If the smell lingers then out the carpet comes for a powerwash. Thanks for the compliment -- it turns a few heads.:thumbup

what are those pre drill holes from the factory, so we can rust out?!


bastards.
Thats what I'm saying! They were also nice enough to include pre drill holes in the back. As soon as I'm done with the front I'm tearing into the back tailgate seal area.
 

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...using some kitchen and bath adhesive caulk (in pic below) because I have 5 tubes left over...
I've got 2 tubes of toothpaste; that doesn't mean it's a good thing to use on a truck. :twak
bastards.
They were also nice enough to include pre drill holes in the back.
The factory doesn't predrill body holes anywhere, except for the seats, and they plug the unused ones. If there's an unused drilled hole, it's from a previous owner.
...I'm tearing into the back tailgate seal area.
Don't tear anything - there probably aren't any holes. It's most likely poor alignment, or a bad outer weatherbelt. Click my black Bronco in my sig & look thru the Tailgate Tech album. :deal
...the back tailgate...
Not the FRONT tailgate, or the SIDE tailgate? :shrug
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've got 2 tubes of toothpaste; that doesn't mean it's a good thing to use on a truck. :twak
:twakToothpaste isn't meant for sealing water leaks. Thats why I posted what I was going to use before I go and use it -- so I could get feedback and recommendations. Care to elaborate on a specific brand or type of silicone that would work better? I don't see why the adhesive caulk I intend on using would'nt work unless you can prove otherwise.

The factory doesn't predrill body holes anywhere, except for the seats, and they plug the unused ones. If there's an unused drilled hole, it's from a previous owner.
Your sarcasm meter is broken!

Don't tear anything - there probably aren't any holes. It's most likely poor alignment, or a bad outer weatherbelt. Click my black Bronco in my sig & look thru the Tailgate Tech album. :deal
Thats what I'm thinking. When I said "tear into it" I meant take a look at it and dissassemble panels and the rear carpet so I can see where the water is leaking.


Not the FRONT tailgate, or the SIDE tailgate? :shrug
Alright, so I probably spent a little too much time in the sun today.:whiteflag
 

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My first choice would be an industrial seam-sealer marketed for steel buildings, because I have a few rolls left over. :toothless The difference being: it's intended for sealing joints in steel that are exposed to extremes of temperature, vibration, & chemicals. That's what I provide with my fuel pump access panels, and you can ask the people who've bought them what they think about it. Your bathtub caulk MIGHT withstand mild cleaning chemicals, but not much else. My second choice would be an automotive seam-sealer, like what the factory put there, or like old butyl windshield adhesive. Modern polyurethane windshield adhesive would be third, with silicone running a distant 4th.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
:beerThanks. I'll go to my local O'Reilly auto parts tomorrow morning and see if they have any automotive seam sealers or windshield adhesive and post what I get.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Alright, I went out and bought 3M super weatherstrip and gasket adhesive (3M P/N 08008) like yoomooman suggested in the first place. Thanks for pointing out the error of my ways Steve. Pic of adhesive below.

Its the best I could find and only O'reillys is open today.

Product Description
3M (TM) Super Weatherstrip Adhesive is a strong, flexible, rubbery adhesive that can withstand vibration, oil, grease, and extreme temperature variations. It can be used to bond weatherstripping to car doors, trunks, T-tops, moon roofs and sun roofs. It is an excellent adhesive for holding paper, cork, or rubber gaskets in place during installation. It provides the strength and rapid setting needed to hold weatherstripping, vinyl headliners, and side panels in place. Features:High StrengthFlexibleAdhesion To Many SubstratesFast DryingGood Oil and Water ResistanceHigh Temperature ResistanceTypical Physical Properties:Container: 5 oz. TubeBase: Neoprene RubberDensity in lbs/Gallon: (Appx.) 7.6Color: Black Flash Point: -14?F Viscosity (CPS):Brookfield Viscometer 4,500 CPSSolids Content: (Appx.) 39.0%Consistency: Heavy LiquidService Temperature: -20 to -300?FDirections for Use:Thoroughly clean surfaces to be bonded. Wiping with 3M(TM) General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner (P.N. 08984 or P.N. 08987) will aid in removing oil and dirt. Apply a thin, uniform coat of adhesive on each surface. Allow adhesive to dry until tacky but will not transfer to your knuckle when touched (maximum dry time about 4 minutes). Assemble materials with sufficient pressure to ensure contact. Greater initial strength may be obtained by reactivating. To reactivate, coat both surfaces with adhesive and allow to dry tack free. Lightly coat surface with at thin coat of adhesive or lightly wipe with 3M(TM) General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner (P.N. 08984). Complete bond within 30 seconds.Applications:Weatherstripping and Gasketing Adhesive.Cloth and supported vinyl bonding.General rubber bonding.Good adhesion to wood, metals, painted surfaces and some plastics.Storage and Handling:Store at room temperature. Rotate stock on a ""first-in-first-out"" basis. When stored at the recommended conditions in original, unopened containers, this product has a shelf life of 12 months.
 

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That's an adhesive - not a sealer. And it's specially designed for holding vulcanized rubber to paint or metal; not for filling in holes, as your post says. I'm not saying that you can't squish so much in there that it stops the leak, but again: toothpaste would be cheaper & just as well-suited to the job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I cleaned up the area some and it looks like the metal under the seam seal rusted out - causing the leak (pics below). I'm going to go see if I can return the 3M adhesive and buy some rust cleaner/dissolver.
 

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Have you cleaned out the cowl area on the outside of that seam? Usually what happens (and you can ask any early Mustang owner about this) is that something will plug the drain holes in the bottom of the cowl, causing it to fill up when rain falls, you drive through a mudhole, etc. Remove the wiper arms, then the cowl cover, and make sure the bottom of the cowl is cleaned out and the drain holes are clear, then run water inside to verify it is actually draining. A little compressed air helps, too, if you have a compressor.
Oh, and buy a 25# bag of quicklime (dolomite lime), lay it down on top of the front seat or center console, slit it open and close up the truck. Let it sit for four or five days and all the moisture will be gone. Then vacuum the Hell out of the carpeting, as any mold will be dry, and the spores will suck right up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Have you cleaned out the cowl area on the outside of that seam? Usually what happens (and you can ask any early Mustang owner about this) is that something will plug the drain holes in the bottom of the cowl, causing it to fill up when rain falls, you drive through a mudhole, etc. Remove the wiper arms, then the cowl cover, and make sure the bottom of the cowl is cleaned out and the drain holes are clear, then run water inside to verify it is actually draining. A little compressed air helps, too, if you have a compressor.
Oh, and buy a 25# bag of quicklime (dolomite lime), lay it down on top of the front seat or center console, slit it open and close up the truck. Let it sit for four or five days and all the moisture will be gone. Then vacuum the Hell out of the carpeting, as any mold will be dry, and the spores will suck right up.
Well now that you brought it up I went ahead and removed the cowl cover as you suggested. I now have full access to the hole - thanks.:thumbup

The pic below is after I cleaned it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
So I went and returned the 3M adhesive and bought Permatex Rust treatment Item#81775. I went ahead and applied it - below are pics of it curing. It looks way better in person. Pics aren't doing any justice!

That should take care of the rust, now I am just waiting on Steves input for where I can purchase the industrial joint sealer he's talking about.
 

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wow i bet you wish you had taken the cowl off first before removing the dash.... Thats alot of work!
 

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Your 1st & 2nd links are appropriate materials, but not the 3rd.

Try to find a local steel building fabricator or erector. If you see a construction site where there are red or grey beams going up, they'll probably have plenty lying around. It's used on the wall & roof sheets, so watch for that material to be delivered, and then talk to one of the guys handling it. You'll only need a foot or so of it, and you might even see some lying on the ground that will work. It comes in a roll with a strip of wax paper to keep it in tape form, but it has the consistency of wet chewing gum. It's usually light grey or olive green. They'll have miles of the stuff on their trucks, so just ask them to rip you off a small chunk.

Where exactly in TN are you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
wow i bet you wish you had taken the cowl off first before removing the dash.... Thats alot of work!
Not really. I had to find the source of the leak into the cabin area so removing the dash was necessary. As for the work, the worst part was doing it directly in the sunlight (I should of parked the bronco in my workshop).

Your 1st & 2nd links are appropriate materials, but not the 3rd.

Try to find a local steel building fabricator or erector. If you see a construction site where there are red or grey beams going up, they'll probably have plenty lying around. It's used on the wall & roof sheets, so watch for that material to be delivered, and then talk to one of the guys handling it. You'll only need a foot or so of it, and you might even see some lying on the ground that will work. It comes in a roll with a strip of wax paper to keep it in tape form, but it has the consistency of wet chewing gum. It's usually light grey or olive green. They'll have miles of the stuff on their trucks, so just ask them to rip you off a small chunk.?
There's a steel building fabricating business on my commute to work, I'll stop by today and see if I can get some.

Where exactly in TN are you?
Oak Ridge (north of Knoxville).
 

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Not really. I had to find the source of the leak into the cabin area so removing the dash was necessary. As for the work, the worst part was doing it directly in the sunlight (I should of parked the bronco in my workshop).



There's a steel building fabricating business on my commute to work, I'll stop by today and see if I can get some.



Oak Ridge (north of Knoxville).

Wow, good thread Elroble. Seeing your dash completely off is totally enough incentive for me to take a good look inside my cowl and remove if needed for some cleaning. Would NOT want to go through what you just did with that leak.
 
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