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Discussion Starter #1
My 1995 5.8L Bronco with 220K miles spends a good deal of its time sitting in the driveway, and gets run once or twice a month for mostly fairly shots runs, other than when used on fishing trips to the coast.
It is only during the long runs that the problem occurs. If I dont stop it runs fine, but occasionaly when I stop for a short period of time, when I go to start again it takes three or four tries before it will fire up.
I can hear the fuel pump priming, and the starter turns the engine over fine.
I just ran 180 miles to the coast with no problems. After being on the beach most of the day, it took several tries to start. As I had about a half tank of fuel I went to the gas station to fill up. After filling up it, I tried starting heard the fuel pump prime but it took a few turns to get it to start. The next morning it started right up, and ran fine all the way home
I would welcome any suggestions on possible causes or things to check.
 

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yo Nigel, WELCOME!

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19
http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/?pid=74587&mode=threaded
A helper is good to assist in reading Codes; best is to take a cell fone vid and replay it.
Some basics;
Visual Check
1.Inspect the air cleaner and inlet ducting.
2.Check all engine vacuum hoses for damage, leaks, cracks, blockage, proper routing, etc.
3.Check EEC system wiring harness for proper connections, bent or broken pins, corrosion, loose wires, proper routing, etc.
4.Check the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), sensors and actuators for physical damage; IAC, TPS I see was replaced, etc.5.Check the engine coolant for proper level and mixture.
6.Check the transmission fluid level and quality. See E4OD Fluid Condition Check Below)
7.Make all necessary repairs before continuing
8. Check headlights

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.
Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears including Reverse.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.

Turn off all accessories; radio, lights, A/C, heater, blower, fans, etc. (close driver's door)

Then turn off engine and wait 10 seconds.

Do KOEO test First

Post Code(s) here according to:
KOEO
&
KOER


The Self-Test is divided into three specialized tests: Key On Engine Off Self-Test, Engine Running Self-Test, and Continuous Self-Test. The Self-Test is not a conclusive test by itself, but is used as a part of the functional Quick-Test diagnostic procedure. The PCM stores the Self-Test program in permanent memory. When activated, Self-Test checks the EEC system by testing memory integrity and processing capability, and verifies that various sensors and actuators are connected and operating properly.

The Key On Engine Off and Engine Running Self-Tests are functional tests which only detect faults present at the time of the Self-Test. Continuous Self-Test is performed during normal vehicle operation and stores any fault information in Keep Alive Memory (KAM) for retrieval at a later time.

Key On Engine Off Self-Test
At this time, a test of the EEC system is conducted with power applied and engine at rest.
To detect errors during Key On Engine Off Self-Test, the fault must be present at the time of testing.

Continuous Memory DTCs are issued as a result of information stored during Continuous Self-Test, while the vehicle was in normal operation. These DTCs are displayed only during Key On Engine Off Self-Test and after the separator pulse. Intermittent faults that have not occurred in the last 80 warm-up cycles (40 cycles on some applications) are erased from Continuous Memory and will not produce a Continuous Memory DTC.Note: The separator pulse and Continuous Memory DTCs follow Key On Engine Off DTCs ONLY.

Engine Running Self-Test
At this time, a test of the EEC system is conducted with the engine running. The sensors are checked under actual operating conditions and at normal operating temperatures. The actuators are exercised and checked for expected results.
============

the Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning
If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that bulb is burnt-out or loose, socket was damaged by PO or shop, etc. or someone removed it, which does happen, unfortunately.

How to Troubleshoot a No Start
(Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L) http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/how-to-troubleshoot-a-no-start-1
"...In a no start condition (also known as a cranks but does not start)... your vehicle's starter motor is cranking the engine but the engine is not starting. This is usually due to a lack of spark, or fuel, or engine compression and in this article I'm gonna' explain in some detail how to diagnose this type of condition/problem..."


EXCERPTS: "...In my opinion (and in my experience), the most problematic area, when it comes to a cranks but does not start problem, is the ignition system.

So my recommendation is to test for spark right off the bat to see if spark is missing from the mix (air, fuel and spark).

The idea behind checking for spark is to see if all of the 8 engine cylinders are getting spark. Let's assume that you have already tested for spark and you observed one of the following spark test results:

CASE 1: Spark was present in all of the cylinders A spark result, if you're using a dedicated spark tester, tells you that:
•That the ignition control module is OK.
•That the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) sensor is OK.
•That the ignition coil is doing dandy.
•You don't have to spend any time testing them or any money replacing them.

So, if you do have spark, the next step in your troubleshooting is to verify fuel pressure..." READ MORE


btw, you can make your own Spark tester; Google it..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Miesk5, Thank you for the information. The problem I have tried to describe happens so infrequently and at what appear to be "odd" times, I wonder if going through all the diagnostics you suggest will show up something that happens so rarely?
I just read your recent response on Bronco Zone, to someone who seemed to be describing a very similar issue to mine. You suggested that the discharge check valve may be stuck open.
Is it possible that every now and then the valve could stick open? Then maybe by temperature change, or simply time, close back up.
Considering the mileage I have on the truck and that the fuel pump is original (as are most things on the truck) and the change to 10% ethanol gas I could see this as a possible suspect.
Maybe a fuel pressure check will solve the check valve question.
 

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26,087 Posts
yo Nigel,

I do think my issue is the ambient temp for the check valve sticking.

Try that Self Test for Codes; could be an intermittent wiring, or connector terminal issue such as what Ford describes as "terminal back-out", etc.

Continuous Monitor Diagnostic Test Mode (Wiggle Test)

Special Note:
•The technician can ATTEMPT to re-create and detect an intermittent fault using the Continuous Monitor DTM (Wiggle Test) procedures.

Key On Engine Off Wiggle Test Procedure
1.Hook up a STAR Tester, VOM or Scan Tool.
2.Turn the ignition key to the ON position.
3.For STAR Tester or VOM, activate, deactivate and reactivate Self-Test to enter Continuous Monitor Diagnostic Test Mode (DTM). For Scan Tool, enter DTM, then enter wiggle DTM.
4.Tap, move, and wiggle the suspect sensor and/or harness. When a fault is detected, a Continuous Memory DTC will be stored in memory and indicated as follows:
•STAR Tester: Red LED lights and/or continuous tone.
•Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL): Lights
•VOM: Needle Sweep
•Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL)
•Message Center (Continental Only)
•Scan Tool: Continuous Tone

Engine Running Wiggle Test Procedure

Special Note:
•The Engine Running Wiggle Test may be activated any time the engine is running.
1.Hook up a STAR Tester, VOM or Scan Tool as shown.
2.Key off.
3.Start the engine.
4.For STAR Tester or VOM, activate Self-Test, deactivate and reactivate Self-Test to enter Engine Running Continuous Monitor DTM. DO NOT shut the engine off. For Scan Tool, enter DTM, then enter wiggle DTM.
5.Tap, move, and wiggle the suspect sensor and/or harness or drive the vehicle. When a fault is detected, a Continuous Memory DTC will be stored in memory and indicated as follows:
•STAR Tester: Red LED lights and/or continuous tone.
•Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL): Lights
•VOM: Needle Sweep
•Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL)
•Message Center (Continental Only)
•Scan Tool: Beeps
 
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