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Seeking Tanelorn
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21,075 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is the original thread; for an edited down version, go here.

*EDIT* I've had several requests over the past year for info on the locknut socket, so here it is:

This will be my feet first jump beyond simple "bolt-on" type automotive stuff. As I said in another thread, I've got Stangs writeup bookmarked, and I've got a Haynes manual and almost enough ego to think I can do this. :brownbag I've got a lot of basic tools, plenty of local stores if I need something, and I've got the ball joints in hand, so there's no longer any excuses; I have to do this.

I will try to remember to take lots of pics, especially when I run into problems, and hopefully I will chronicle enough detail that other novices will feel informed enough to do their own as well.

First few pics...

Spicer "Professional Grade" Ball joints.



I jacked it up and pulled the wheels tonight in prep to start in the morning. I spent a little time figuring out how to coordinate jacking up the truck, and placing the jack stands; I was thinking I needed to have the stands pretty far forward on a flat horizontal spot in the frame, and was having problems making room for the stands and the floor jack in almost the same place. I finally went with moving the stands back a couple of feet, and it still seems pretty solid. I slid some bags over the hubs just to keep the local kids from messing with anything this evening.



Ok, first problem... WTF happened here? Sway bar pulled loose on full extension? All I did was jack it up and pull the wheel!!

 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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21,075 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
You have air tools, BFH, and a ball joint press?
No, yes, rental.

And just wondering what the Spicer's costed ya? I just put TRW's on my passenger side New Years Day. I'd rather had the Spicer's.
1990 FORD BRONCO 5.8L 351cid V8 MFI
SPICER 5001048 Ball Joint $28.79
2 - $57.58
SPICER 5051156 Ball Joint $24.79
2 - $49.58
Shipping Ground $17.41
Order Total $124.57

They weren't cheap, but when something wears out, it's time to upgrade. :thumbup


Your jack stands look to be in a good spot. I say this because 2 years ago, I went to change my springs and my stands were a little short, so I place them in a spot that seem to be ok but wasn't happy with (TTB). :smilie_slap Shook the truck, seem to be ok,:twak then with the prybar, I pryed on the axle housing to drop it down to get the spring out:twak, then WHAM!!! :cryTruck came down, my hand was in the wheel well and smashed my wedding ring, gashed my hand had to get 5 stitches. So now I have no wedding ring, decent scar, and BIGGER jack stands.;)
Thanks for the affirmation There were only so many places that I liked (that were flat enough to seem stable). I almost put them right behind the bumper, but i thought they might get in the way. It looked like Stang put them about where I did, so I went with that.

No wedding ring? If that happened to me, My wife would have been at the jeweler's the next day, saying "match this for him." :rofl:
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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21,075 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
BTW, before I pulled the tire, I tried moving it to look for the movement my mechanic said he saw, and saw this part flexing as I moved top/bottom. Is that what I was looking for?

 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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17,039 Posts
BTW, before I pulled the tire, I tried moving it to look for the movement my mechanic said he saw, and saw this part flexing as I moved top/bottom. Is that what I was looking for?

That would be the upper BJ and if you were pushing/pulling on the tire and felt movement, and saw movement up here, you are doing the right thing in replacing BJ's.

So get on with it man!!!:twak I don't even see where you have been soaking them.
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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21,075 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
That would be the upper BJ and if you were pushing/pulling on the tire and felt movement, and saw movement up here, you are doing the right thing in replacing BJ's.

So get on with it man!!!:twak I don't even see where you have been soaking them.
Haven't soaked them. I see you guys talking about PB Blaster? Is that like a penetrating oil? Would they have it at PepBoys, or Home Depot? I can run out for some first thing, and let them soak while I work.

*Edit* And I did know what part I was looking at. :twak
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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21,075 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
The patient is on the table, and been opened up. There no turning back now! :shocked.

First up, a pic of the rotor. The rigs been sitting for a substantial amount of time, and the surface shows it. Should this be resurfaced?



Ok, so... on with it. Like I said before, I'm going to detail things so that another novice like myself will know what to do; I'll try not to leave anything out.

The Haynes manual said to remove some of the brake fluid to prevent overflow when I compress the cylinder.


This is as far as I could go because of the filter in the top.



Next, using a c-clamp (which I had to run out for; mine weren't big enough to fit around the assembly) compress the cylinder so that you will be able to pull it off the rotor. It won't move far; all you're doing is loosening it up.



Next, you need to take out these pins.



If you look at them closely, you'll see some bumps on each side that hold it in place; they need to be compressed to clear the edge, while at the same time pushed through. Squeeze them with some pliers, while prying at them like so. Once you've got both pins pushed in, push them through with a punch if you've got one - a big ass screwdriver if you don't. ;)



Now you can lift the whole thing off and suspend it out of the way. Careful with the brake line, and watch the brake pads; they fell right out. I looped the wire over one of the shocks; and yes, I tightened up the hook so that it wouldn't slip.





And this is what you have left.



Now's time to pull the manual Warn hub. Find the right allen wrench and pull the cover. Watch out for the spring that's behind the cap; it'll fall out while you're trying to keep the bolts in the cap. :rofl:




Next pull the axle shaft snap-ring and the hub lock ring around the inside edge. The lock ring took a little doing, but a small flat-head and an awl got it out (I'm not sure which actually got to it, but they were both in my hand at the time).




The Haynes says next to remove the stop screw next, and has a picture of where it should be, but after a close examination, I decided the Warn didn't have one, and just pulled the hub out. A couple of the Allen bolts helped out here.



Now you're ready to pull the Wheel bearing lock nut...



...with a tool like this.



There should be nothing else holding the rotor in place now. Pull it off, and watch for the outer bearing; it'll be loose and will likely fall out of the rotor if you're not careful.



This is what you should be seeing now; you just pulled everything off of the spindle. That's next.



Next, pull all those nuts surrounding the spindle, and take the spindle off. Apparently, a lot of people have serious problems here, and have to get a special tool to pull the spindle off.

Courtesy of Stangmata...

Spindle puller AutoZone p/n 27104
Slide Hammer AutoZone p/n 27033
They ran me $45 for both pieces.
I, however, had no problems. I just used a hand sledge and a piece of plywood, hammered the outside a few times around, and started wiggling it back and forth 'til it came off.



Now pull the shield and set it aside.



Next up is pulling the axle shaft. I think the driver's side axle just pulls out at this point, but there's one more step for the passenger's side. It's mostly loose right now, but you'll need to crawl under the front end, pull the boot clamps...

I'm guessing these are single use items? Can I replace them with hose clamps? It would make replacing the axle on a trail a lot easier.


...and slide the boot over onto the stub coming out of the differential.



Now you're ready to carefully pull the axle shaft out.



Next up, remove the tie-rod. Pull the cotter pin and take off the castle nut. Again, Stang had a problem with this being stuck (rusted), and apparently it can sometimes just spin as well, but I didn't have any problems with the nut.



Getting it to come out though wasn't aparently optimum. Steve83 says to hit the joint on the side and it should flex enough to drop out, but I hit it hard enough to dent metal (which you can see if you look close), and nothing happened; so I did what Stang did - flipped the castle nut over, screwed it back down some, and hit it with the hammer a few times. Dropped right out. :toothless



That was pretty much it for today. I'm at the ball joints themselves, but I've found out that my tools don't go up that size, so I'll be heading over to HD to get what I need.

I'm a little worried about getting a socket on that nut; it's awfully close to the spring.

 

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Practicing Infidel
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15,309 Posts
I'm a little worried about getting a socket on that nut; it's awfully close to the spring.

Pound that socket on Iolaus !:toothless

Lookin' good ! You got more cahones than me. I farmed mine out. I noticed you'll be able to grease the living $h!t out of your inner spindle bearing now, wontcha ?

Spring for the fully synthetic grease muh friend. Good going :thumbup

Sixlitre

p.s./
I couldn't help noticing the rust, so where's the snow, ice and salt (it's currently -35 here tonight:doh0715:)
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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21,075 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
p.s./
I couldn't help noticing the rust, so where's the snow, ice and salt (it's currently -35 here tonight:doh0715:)
It was in the 80's today. :toothless Even in the desert, you can get rust, it just takes a little longer. :thumbup
 

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Practicing Infidel
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15,309 Posts
another thing go to Lowe's an buy there kobolt electric impact gun don't beat it up and save the receipt and take it back when done makes removal and install of bj's alot easer.
Buckinbronc I think you've just dethroned me as FSB resident cheap [email protected]$turd

at least for this week

Sixlitre

p.s./
Iolaus, just being sarcastic. Keep up the great write up
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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21,075 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
another thing go to Lowe's an buy there kobolt electric impact gun don't beat it up and save the receipt and take it back when done makes removal and install of bj's alot easer.
I wouldn't be setting a very good example for the kids if I did that. :twak

Slight diversion this morning. Neither shower is getting much hot water, and the valve feeding the hot water heater just spins. It's been a developing problem which makes me think that the shaft in the valve may be broken, and that the valve itself has been working itself closed. I'm going to pull it apart and see if it's fixable or if I need to sweat on another valve. :banghead It never ends with a 50 yr old tract home.
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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21,075 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Good work Iolus, how long did the wrenching take so far?
Wasn't really timing it, but I think it was about 3 or 4 hours yesterday afternoon.
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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21,075 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
This is your first time doing this? Great job and in 3-4 hours too! The ujoint looked pretty rusty, you DID inspect it while you were there, right?
Not really; I was more concerned with disassembly at that point. Aside from rattling inside the cups and needle bearings falling out, what should I look for?
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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21,075 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
OK kids...lets keep Jeff's thread to Ball Joints...and keep the random crap out of it...
I figured once I'm done, I'll collect all the operative posts together and make a blog entry, or just start and link to another thread that's the "official write-up" without the talk. :thumbup


BTW, that plumbing problem was exactly what I thought; the valve feeding the water heater was busted. I removed the whole assembly (threading was just covered with crap; no cutting/sweating involved) and slapped it against my hand to open and close the valve. :shocked $20 & 1/2 hour of work and it's all better. :toothless Some might remember me having problems getting out a shower valve to replace it last year (something I never did). Well apparently, that was just the first place the inequality of pressure had started evidencing itself. :doh0715: It finally slipped almost shut yesterday, cutting the hot water to the point that my wife refused to shower in it this morning. She's going to be soooo happy tonight. :rofl:


So now that the EMERGENCY is handled :rofl:, I'll get back to the ball joints. I need to get the sockets, and I can't find the tub of bearing grease (I think the kid used it for his Mustang and never put it back), so I'll have to replace that; and while I'm shopping, I'll need to pick up a decent 1/2" torque wrench. Stang said 1 1/16" socket and 1 1/8" socket for his '95 ball joint nuts; is that going to hold true for my '90 as well?
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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21,075 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Looks good Iolaus.

Yes, PB blaster or any good super penetrating oil
Yes, as Six said now is the time to clean and grease the spindle with a synthetic, good grease. Also check ujoints, and the hub/bearings/racings. get all that old grease out and look over your bearings, if timken and in good shape you can re-grease with the synthetic and put them back in, otherwise spring for new timkens and knock this sucka out while you're at it.

when you go to reassemble stuff like spindle to knuckle, do you have a little jar of antiseize lube? This helps ensure that if there is a next time getting into this it comes apart just as easily as it went together. I even used a bit of this in the knuckle bores where you will be pressing your new BJ's back in.
Keep talking; I'm making lists. :toothless
Did you ever decide if you were going to yank the pumpkin out and install your mini-spool?....not much more work required, and would be a good time to install a drain plug in it also.
Still thinking about it. Since I have the right-side axle out, I wouldn't have to remove that beam, right? Just the left side? I like the idea, but I'm stretching my confidence just doing this! :brownbag
The ball joint nuts should be standard....
I've got an adjustable wrench that's big enough; I'll find out out that way.
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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21,075 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
The area around the nut that holds the bottom balljoint on is really tight. Not alot of room to swing the wrench, an adjustable might not work. Too wide. :shrug
I just meant to measure it. I'll go out and check right now.
 

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Administrator
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you dont need to remove any beams to get out the center section....theres the bolts on the front and two bolts on the drivers side...plus the drive shaft...the inner pass axle will come out with the center section.
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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21,075 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
I'm not talking about the size of the nut. Will you be able to move the wrench after it is on the nut with an adjustable wrench. I had issues using a 1 1/8 box wrench.


Yeah, crows foot, that's the ticket.
You mean actually working the nut? I'm going to use a socket for that; I just needed to know what size. If I swing the knuckle toward the rear, I open up a pretty large gap in front; that should be enough to work with.
 
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