So I need to be cleaning out all the old grease, top to bottom, and replacing it with synthetic? Any recommendations? What should I be using to clean it all up, lacquer thinner?
:histerica Like I said, it was an ongoing thing that had just gotten progressively worse and then suddenly plumeted. I showed her we had steam in the room again and she was jumping up and down with excitement! :rofl: I think I made points :toothlessBTW, that plumbing problem was exactly what I thought; the valve feeding the water heater was busted. I removed the whole assembly (threading was just covered with crap; no cutting/sweating involved) and slapped it against my hand to open and close the valve. :shocked $20 & 1/2 hour of work and it's all better. :toothless Some might remember me having problems getting out a shower valve to replace it last year (something I never did). Well apparently, that was just the first place the inequality of pressure had started evidencing itself. :doh0715: It finally slipped almost shut yesterday, cutting the hot water to the point that my wife refused to shower in it this morning. She's going to be soooo happy tonight. :rofl:
I got a one pound can of Mobil 1 Synthetic and two large cans of brake cleaner. I'll wipe everything down with rags to get the bulk of, and then work it all with the cleaner and some brushes.I'd just wipe the inner spindle clean
with a rag and wash the inner spindle bearings with gas or varsol. Then hand lube them up with synthetic grease.
I use the Canadian Tire house brand synthetic grease.
As far as the socket you'll end up into 3/4" drive stuff pretty soon, so buy a whole set of off shore 3/4" drive impact sockets and an adapter so you can use your 1/2" drive flex bar.
I don't work at night. :brownbagSo how goes it?
I'm using the Haynes more than Stang's writeup. I keep it up on the machine though, so when I do need to, I just come in and roll the scroll wheel with a clean spot on my arm. :rofl:Don't be using a iphone or similiar phone with internet looking at FSB directions at the same time when you are doing your balljoints, I don't think they would cover it under warranty when its been raped with grease!
I knew a older guy that was crushed by a Ford Aerostar about 10 yrs ago. The van had an oil leak so he jacked it up with a hydraulic jack to inspect, did not use jackstands, got underneath the vehicle and the hydraulic jack failed. The vans ground clearance was low enough to crush him to death. Moral of the story: USE JACKSTANDS.... Placement is important too and one must use them properly.Your jack stands look to be in a good spot. I say this because 2 years ago, I went to change my springs and my stands were a little short, so I place them in a spot that seem to be ok but wasn't happy with (TTB). :smilie_slap Shook the truck, seem to be ok,:twak then with the prybar, I pryed on the axle housing to drop it down to get the spring out:twak, then WHAM!!! :cryTruck came down, my hand was in the wheel well and smashed my wedding ring, gashed my hand had to get 5 stitches. So now I have no wedding ring, decent scar, and BIGGER jack stands.
I got the best Harbor Freight stands that money could buy out of that store's stock at the time. I think they're rated for 12 tons.Moral of the story: USE JACKSTANDS.... Placement is important too and one must use them properly.
I got the ones in the pics below a few years back from northern tool for $200 shipped. (I was replacing my rear springs with deavers in the pic)
Probably a good idea; it's been sitting for close to two years.from the looks of the brake fluid you need to flush the system, if you havent used the truck in a while it frobably has alot of water in the system as brake fluid loves water. second i would take the time and remove the rust from the rotors , take the brake pads and rub them around on the cement then look at them ,for cracks ,even hair line i would replace. or turn rotors and purchace new premium brake pads :thumbup
thanks for the prices and location
By the way reading your post in the muffler/cat thread, I was starting to have a feeling that you would be trying to get US parts since McGlinty ordered all older cars destroyed or something. It would be the same thing as shipping gun parts across the border, a no no in the eyes of the Canadian gov't.Sewiv does live inside the salt belt and Michigan is no heated picnic this time of year.
For the exact reasons Sewiv is describing I decided to farm my ball joints out. It was also -30 below at the time and I hadn't installed the radiant floor heating in the garage yet.
My mechanic ran into two problems that would have halted me and he still came inside the $300.00 estimate he quoted me.
For this Ontarian it was money well spent, though I think Iolaus should get top marks for his efforts.
BTW I've had muh kilt let oot at least once since my brutha's wedding in 88'.
No, that one appears to be fine. The one that destructed is sized to fit the same shaft that the gear fits over - it's a little bigger than the snap ring. What's left of it is sitting under the coil spring in that picture. I'll take some better closeups after I clean things up a bit.Is it the "wave spring" that is sitting in the cap that destructed? The wave spring is what is in Warn's premium hub. That may have bit the dust with the toothed gear coming apart somehow. The inner part of the hub...you may have had a snap ring come loose in order for that toothed ring gear to come out.
Ok, that bigger floppy spring came out when that toothed ring came loose. Clean the grease out of the inner hub dial and see if you can see anything else broken. all this junk is usually retained by a snap ring or something to keep it as one unit, though you can disassemble them (and buy any new parts you might need if cost effective).No, that one appears to be fine. The one that destructed is sized to fit the same shaft that the gear fits over - it's a little bigger than the snap ring. What's left of it is sitting under the coil spring in that picture. I'll take some better closeups after I clean things up a bit.