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Seeking Tanelorn
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Discussion Starter #62
I got a ball joint press from Auto Zone and... :banghead:banghead I've been trying to get these ball joints out for two hours! I don't have a vice, and I've been trying to find some sort of jury-rigged way to hold it so that I can work my cheater bar, but no luck. I just can't get enough oomph on it to break them loose!

I even dug out the old porta-power that I inherited from my follks when they moved, to see if that would work, but apparently the seal is broke; it doesn't move.
 

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Well it kind of goes against the premise I mentally started with - that this would be a writeup of how to do it yourself - but I think I'm going to have to have someone else do this part, and I do want to get the job finished before I go back to school next week.

Where will you be, and what kind of beer do you like? :thumbup
Just let me know Jeff.... I am in Covina during the day....
 

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Don't need no stinkin vise.

My impact gun does it just fine. :)

Iolaus. Take your knuckles and tools to the closest mechanic shop and see how much they'd charge ya to change em out. Should only take any competent mechanic with the tool you rented and their impact gun roughly 5 - 10 minutes to do.
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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Discussion Starter #65
Don't need no stinkin vise.

My impact gun does it just fine. :)

Iolaus. Take your knuckles and tools to the closest mechanic shop and see how much they'd charge ya to change em out. Should only take any competent mechanic with the tool you rented and their impact gun roughly 5 - 10 minutes to do.
Given the option, I'd rather drive a little and pay someone I know and trust with beer or something than give my money to someone I don't know; builds better karma all 'round. (Lord knows I can use some of that!) ;)

Tim, I'm getting ready to leave; I'll call you when I'm ready to go.
 

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Lick my balls
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It was an attempt at humour that clearly didn't work, never mind.
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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Discussion Starter #68
Question before I do this because it isn't addressed in the instructions... I'm assuming I pack the boot with grease before installation. It looks like the bottom of the joint is already packed; will the fitting just not accept more grease if it's full, or can I screw up things by forcing more grease in??
 

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Lick my balls
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no, install it and top it up after you are done
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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Discussion Starter #70
I nomally install the cap and start pumping grease in...you will see the cap start to buldge when its full.
It flows through the joint that easily? Oh, I see. I didn't see the two channels in the cup at first. :thumbup

Thanks.
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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Discussion Starter #71
no, install it and top it up after you are done
I nomally install the cap and start pumping grease in...you will see the cap start to buldge when its full.
Wait a minute, by "nominally," are you saying off the truck? ...or install the knuckle finger tight, grease it up, then torque it down?

Or am I worrying about nothing - just grease it up and get it on?

(There's one for you Steve. :rofl:)
 

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Lick my balls
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Like I said, install it and when everything is done and torqued to specs, grease everything then. Just make sure the grease nipple is accessible before you move on.
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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Discussion Starter #73
I have them finger tight right now, but not greased. Is the boot supposed to drop down around the largest diameter in post #1? Without any pressure, it sits perfectly above it, like it was designed to be there.
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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Discussion Starter #74
Here's a pic of what I'm taking about. I know it will be driven further down of the bare side as I tighten it, but is this how it's supposed to look at this point?



 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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Discussion Starter #76
There's no ring or groove to snap into place; it looks like they're just supposed to sit in place. :shrug

The bottom joints look great...




...but the uppers are so cockeyed that the boot isn't sitting anywhere near straight. you can see in these pic how far off they are. ...and that's where they're supposed to be; I haven't moved the adjusting rings.


 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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Steve can be such a PITA about stuff, but this is where I will always state the same thing:

Spicer balljoints
spicer non-greaseable.

I actually prefer their lifetime series non-greasable ujoints for driveshafts as well.

Torque NOTHING until you have your camber specs where you want them. Are you needing info. here Jeff?
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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Discussion Starter #79
Steve can be such a PITA about stuff, but this is where I will always state the same thing:

Spicer balljoints
spicer non-greaseable.

I actually prefer their lifetime series non-greasable ujoints for driveshafts as well.

Torque NOTHING until you have your camber specs where you want them. Are you needing info. here Jeff?
Probably.

They are exactly where they were when I took the knuckles off; shouldn't that be fine?
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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Probably.

They are exactly where they were when I took the knuckles off; shouldn't that be fine?
I don't know, were you having any unsual tire wear issues? Were the tires looking nice and strait vertically? NOW is the time to make changes if you have adjustable upper BJ bushings.
 
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