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Seeking Tanelorn
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Discussion Starter #161
I just realized that the thin metal plate that goes between the pad and the cylinder fell off before I installed the brakes on one side. It looks like it was held on with rubber cement, and there's no way to use pressure to hold it in place like I did with the larger pads. Is it important to have it in place? I already took the brakes back off, so it's not an issue of "easier not to bother."
 

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If your brakes squeak then it's an anoyance... If not don't worry about it..
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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Discussion Starter #163
ibtl:bday:chili::chili:
:thumbup I'm finished!! Still have to fix that hub lock, but I have a spare in there for now so I'm calling it done. :rockon I'll finish the writeup for today's work after I clean up. A huge thanks to everyone who helped me on this; I really feel like I accomplished something.

Now I need to pay the back fees, get a temporary permit, run some Seafoam through, and get it smogged.
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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Discussion Starter #164
Ok, so the last installment stopped at installing the hub locks. At this point I kinda' started moving faster, so there's not quite as many pictures.

In the interest of economy, and because the grooving wasn't radically bad on the other rotor, I decided to go ahead and reuse it as is. Economy was also the reason I went with reusing the pads as well; they still have lots of life left. :thumbup.



Ideally, I would have preferred to replace them as long as I had everything open, but now that I've done this and I see how easy it will be to do in the future, I'll just keep what I've got for now.

Since I had originally intended to replace them, I didn't really make an effort to keep them clean; they were pretty greasy. I sprayed them done with brake cleaner and scrubbed on them with a rag, and this was about as clean as they would get. After rubbing them on the concrete to break any glazing, that stain on the one disappeared.



So first, I put the smaller pad with the spring clip on it in place against the inside of the rotor, and pushed it flat (after I took the pic); the little spring should hold it in place while you get the rest on.



The longer pad fits into cutouts in the caliper (after you take it off your hanger :toothless)



The Haynes says to lube the groves with caliper grease, in the absence of thet, and figuring that any grease was better than none, I used the bearing grease and applied it as lightly as I could to both the channels and the pins.



Now set the caliper in place, aligning the grooves, and drive the pins in.

I initially thought I could help things along by setting one pin in place, and tilting the caliper into place...



...but the tolerances were too tight to do this, so don't bother.

I also thought that I needed to pinch the pins to get them started...



...but found it much easier to simply tap them in at an angle first, and let them find their own way once they were started. I'm pretty sure they'll only go in one way, but be sure to put the tabs facing away from the calipers so that they'll lock in place.



Once I had both brakes done, I topped off the brake reservoir, started up the truck, and pumped the pedal a few times to get everything in place.

Someone suggested that the fluid was too dark, and that I should probably flush the brake system; what do y'all think?



Next up is reattaching the tie rods.

Since I was replacing the grease with the synth, I cleaned up the ends and flushed as much old grease out as I could.



Then I put the boot in place, coated the shaft and threads with anti-seize, put them in place, tightened them down to about 70 ft-lbs, and then continued tightening them 'til I could align the castle nut with the hole for cotter pin and installed it. The Haynes says to tighten them to 52 - 74, and after trying to go beyond 70 with my adjustable wrench, I would probably go with the lower part of the range next time.

So this is what it looked like when I was done. I was a bit skeptical about how it pushes against the arm, but the package specifically said that the boot was supposed to go down over the joint like that rather than folding accordion-like, the way the original one was. ...even said you might have to use something sharp to help get it started over the lip. :shrug





So once that was done, I topped off the grease in the joint, ran the tires over to the gas station to get them up to pressure, slapped them back on, and called it done!

:chili:ibtl:beer

Of course, I wasn't done. I still had those axle boot clamps to replace. They didn't have any in stock and I didn't feel like driving around, so I just dug out some zip-ties and used them.

And while I was finishing up this day's writeup, I remembered that I hadn't dealt with the sway bar end pulling out yet either. :banghead That's just little stuff though. I wonder if it might have popped back into place when I let down the truck off the jacks...nah, that'd be too much to ask. :toothless
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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Discussion Starter #165
so how bad were the old joints were they toast
Tim said he had seen worse when he pressed them for me. :shrug I'm pretty sure they were original (at least I hadn't changed them since I got the truck in the mid 90's), so it was time anyway.
 

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Practicing Infidel
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Iolaus

BTW, here's a pic of that seal puller I promised you;



Work's great. Never ruined a seal yet.

Sixlitre
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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Discussion Starter #167
Iolaus

BTW, here's a pic of that seal puller I promised you;

Work's great. Never ruined a seal yet.

Sixlitre
(Hmm, I coulda' sworn I posted this already...)

Thanks, I'll look for one to throw into the tool box; I'm sure I'll need it again. :thumbup
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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Discussion Starter #169
So Jeff, I guess your u-joints in the axles were good?
They seemed to be. They weren't stiff, and I couldn't find any play; just a slight but smooth resistance any way I moved them. :shrug
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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Discussion Starter #170
[....]
Do it next time you're under there (like when you switch to urethane sway car bushings;)), and bleed/flush the rears too.[....]
About those urethane sway bar bushings... I'm looking at the RockAuto catalog and found a Moog "Bushing Repair Kit; Incl. thermoplastic bushings for both ends of link" for $14.79/front & back. Is "thermoplastic" the same thing as, or better than, urethane?

 

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I know this thread is pretty old, but i'm just getting to my ball joints...i'm at the point where i'm trying to get the spindle off...it's stuck real good...my question is, where do you put the 2x4...more towards the break dust shield, or more towards the outside of the spindle...:banghead
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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I know this thread is pretty old, but i'm just getting to my ball joints...i'm at the point where i'm trying to get the spindle off...it's stuck real good...my question is, where do you put the 2x4...more towards the break dust shield, or more towards the outside of the spindle...:banghead
If it's stuck real good, good luck with wood, it's just going to beat and break/split the wood. after letting it soak a day or so, go to autozone and get the spindle puller/slider hammer. it's basically a huge, heavy socket that threads on the end. A few real good whacks with the slide hammer and it will pop off with no damage or cussing.

Heed the info. on antisieze lube when reinstalling.
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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Discussion Starter #173
You buy them with the understanding that you can return them after you're done. So yes, they "loan" them. Be nice and clean them up when you're through. :thumbup
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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Discussion Starter #174
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