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Engineer
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13,165 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this will start a war but...

How's a solid 44 any stronger than a TTB 44. I've broken every part spider gears, u-joints, shafts, slip-yokes on my D44 TTB on 33's and I've been thinking about doing a SAS for a while but I don't know what I'll gain from the swap. Of course I want a decent alignment and more flex but is a solid 44 going to be any stronger than TTB or should I wait for a D60 to come my way and run a D50 stubshaft for now? I've got a couple more TTB parts but at the rate I'm breaking them I'm thinking it's upgrade time. I talked to a couple friends in my club up here at school and they say a SAS is pointless if I'm going to run a 44. Any opinions would be appreciated.

And here's a decent wheelin video from last weekend
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=314864
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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I disagree with their statement "it's pointless":

Related to strength, unless you upgrade to alloy shafts and joints, they are fairly right about strength. but it 's this option, along with 1 less center U joint, a nice strong solid housing vs. a stamped (I guess) steel housing meant to act like IFS, and options for 8 lug outers that can make a solid 44 considerably stronger. but you need the $$$ (same with a D60 as well) in order to play.

Related to other items such as trail articulataion, the solid axle is another huge benefit they musta forgot about. It rides real nice too. So even if you just drop a D44 solid under it and not put out for the expensive upgrades, it's still not pointless :thumbup
 

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Wait for a 60, the solid 44 isnt that much stronger than TTB. solid 44 flexes better and doesnt have the alignment issues but strength wise there just not much difference. IIRC the TTB knucle joints are actually bigger than the solid 44 joints but i may be wrong. The solid 44 does however have more aftermarket parts to strengthen it than the TTB. Money for money the 60 is a better choice if you are gonna spend the money. Just my 2 cents
 

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2012 Jeep JKU
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better upgardeable parts with a solid d44...I know everyone says wait for a d60 but I am going to go ahead and do a d44...less cost and dont have to change out my rims...so in my case it was better to do a d44...
 

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Sway's jealous of my
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2,856 Posts
SAS. At least your truck will be ready for a D60 when the time comes.

Plus: you get yourself a set of alloy shafts for 400-500 bucks, Spicer's should be ok (You fawker..you have me worrying abou going with Spicer's now!), and then throw something into the differential to get rid of hte spiders (weak point) and you should have something that will not break. Of course, you shouldn't be breaking chit as it is. Just my thoughts though.
 

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Crusher Mike
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redwagon said:
better upgardeable parts with a solid d44...I know everyone says wait for a d60 but I am going to go ahead and do a d44...less cost and dont have to change out my rims...so in my case it was better to do a d44...

Same reason Im doing 44
 

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After you throw 400-500 for alloys plus the cost of the solidd 44 and all the parts you could have already done a D60 swap. Ask Gearhead about breaking the solid 44. Gearhead broke his on the first trip out and he didnt even give it that much hell. He has the Aussie locker in his 44 so he didnt have spiders in his either. Now hes trying to scrounge up the money for chromo shafts.
 

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bearfoot_25 said:
After you throw 400-500 for alloys plus the cost of the solidd 44 and all the parts you could have already done a D60 swap. Ask Gearhead about breaking the solid 44. Gearhead broke his on the first trip out and he didnt even give it that much hell. He has the Aussie locker in his 44 so he didnt have spiders in his either. Now hes trying to scrounge up the money for chromo shafts.
true...but I already have everything done in my 9" (detroit,bearings and axles)
also I am going chromo shafts in mine.
 

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I'm surprised your breaking that much stuff with 33's. But swapping in a straight axle is worth it. Cost depends alot on whether you plan to fab your own stuff or buy already made parts. Plus you can reuse a lot of your ttb parts on the straight axle 44. Bolt patterns are the same, if you have a locker you can use it and you can put your hubs and rotors on from the ttb. I found a used 78 with just the axles and reused all my 89 stuff. Had to get 78 brake pads though. This is why I stayed with a 44 rather than a 60. Plus the straight axles just look more natural under the bronco in my opinion.
 

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Sway's jealous of my
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Todd doesn't havea locker, that's the problem! He manges to break more then the guys that DO have lockers. Unlucky guy..

Get a solid axle, and he could even just go with NEW Spicer joints and shafts and not break as much anymore. Still..if you're gonna spend the cash..

Thanks for hte cryo link. I'm seriously considering going this route with Spicer U-joints when I do chromo later on. I cant' see spending 400+ dollars on U-joints.
 

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Saurian said:
Todd doesn't havea locker, that's the problem! He manges to break more then the guys that DO have lockers. Unlucky guy..

Get a solid axle, and he could even just go with NEW Spicer joints and shafts and not break as much anymore. Still..if you're gonna spend the cash..

Thanks for hte cryo link. I'm seriously considering going this route with Spicer U-joints when I do chromo later on. I cant' see spending 400+ dollars on U-joints.
Ya I figured $10 a joint plus shipping it was worth a try!
 

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Engineer
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13,165 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
So a D44 with chromo shafts would be sweet but that sends my SAS way over $1k... I could probably get away with stock shafts for a while and upgrade later. Staying 5 lug would be nice especially since I havent wrecked my 8.8 yet and I want to do a shackle flip in back so I'm thinking a D44 SAS would get me 4 inches if I planned it out right I've got no intentions of going bigger than 35's on my DD. With the ZF swap waiting in the garage I think I'll be ok for a while with stock gears. I'm looking at $150 for a D50 stub shaft at a junk yard which seems outrageous and I'm not so sure I want to put a D44 stub back in after my recent turn of bad luck. I found a D44 for a decent price but I'm looking at all my options.

Saurian said:
Todd doesn't havea locker, that's the problem! He manges to break more then the guys that DO have lockers. Unlucky guy..
I've got 3 TTB third members and I might weld one up for fun and try that if I stick with TTB. But then again you guys said I'd break shafts if i was welded :doh0715: I'm more than capable of that. I suppose if I stuck to the kiddy trails I'd stop breaking shit too but that wouldnt be any fun. Watch that video it's not very often that you drag your mirrors on the ground
 

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Premium Member
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14,612 Posts
bearfoot_25 said:
It may be less cost now but breaking stuff adds up quick.
knowing how to drive helps tooo :goodfinge

jason now your playing with the big boys with a d60 chit cost hellva lot more when it breaks
 

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I killed Kenny...again
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go ahead and do the 44 swap. if you look in the right places, you can do your swap for cheaper than a 60 swap. even though i got my axle for free, the balljoints were still in great condition, even the u joints in the axle are still in good shape and i've flogged them. staying 5 lug will let you keep your 8.8. and to reiterate what others have said, the ride quality is night and day. the ride quality on the road was enough reason for me to do it
 

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The Anti Yam!
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Are you getting on the skinny pedal with the wheels turned verry sharp? From the video it looks like you are.

Perhaps a little finess would help you keep from breaking things. :goodfinge
 

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Crusher Mike
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6,111 Posts
Gacknar said:
Are you getting on the skinny pedal with the wheels turned verry sharp? From the video it looks like you are.

Perhaps a little finess would help you keep from breaking things. :goodfinge
when in doubt hammer down!!
 
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