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Discussion Starter #1
OK, I really need to thoroughly clean my Right rear brakes. I don't know why but that one looks very badly rusted and locked up last week. I managed to remove the drum and loosen the brake but I need to clean it up well and figure out why or even if it's actually working. Instead of going through a lot of spray brake cleaner, I was wondering if Mineral spirits would be OK to use along with a thorough brushing. I figure, after the mineral spirits I'd spray it all down well after to remove any residue from the spirits. Any better ideas?
Thanks


Strange thing is, the other side doesn't look anything like that. It looks pretty clean comparatively.
 

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NO! Mineral spirits IMO is to oily. If you are gunna use a solvent go with lacquer thinner, acetone etc...or good ole brake cleaner
 

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you can use it, i use it all the time to do this sort of work. alot cheaper then 50 cans of break clean. the one thing you wana watch is the seals on the brake cylinders. if you douche it all off and dry them off right after you will be fine. if you let it sit on the rubber seals it MAY swell them up. i usually use a siphon gun and once im done spraying the mineral spirits, pull the hose out of the can and just use it as an air nozzle to blow dry everything
 

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NO! Mineral spirits IMO is to oily. If you are gunna use a solvent go with lacquer thinner, acetone etc...or good ole brake cleaner
no its fine, it leaves no residue when it drys. i would hit the pads/ shoes with some brake cleaner after wards to get any oil or greese that the mineral spirits may have lifted and put on the pads
 

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no its fine, it leaves no residue when it drys. i would hit the pads/ shoes with some brake cleaner after wards to get any oil or greese that the mineral spirits may have lifted and put on the pads
Yes mineral spirits is a good cleaner but brakes is one thing I would not use it on...Thats just me though.
Just sayin with all the solvents and stuff out there paint thinner would be my last choice to clean stuff with....old timers swear by it though..LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #6
OK, that was my plan, to use the spirits to help clean everything and then clean that off with the brake cleaner. The rust on the brakes is really just what seems like 20 year old brake dust and these are the factory original shoes. I also need to go through the E-Brake cable and clean it and lube it up. I think that's actually what's causing the lockup issue.
 

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Yes mineral spirits is a good cleaner but brakes is one thing I would not use it on...Thats just me though.
Just sayin with all the solvents and stuff out there paint thinner would be my last choice to clean stuff with....old timers swear by it though..LOL
ive done it a bunch, as i said i go back over the pads with break clear to get anyhting that might be on there off, then dry them thoroughly
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I've got a few cans of the Non-chlorinated brake cleaner. I always keep a few on hand to use for gun cleaning instead of the expensive GunScrubber. I figure it should take off whatever film the spirits might leave behind.
 

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Might consider replacing the wheel cylinders (both sides) while you're at it - RockAuto has them for something like $5.
 

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you can use plain old dish soap and water too. that's exactly what was in the machine we had at our shop specifically for cleaning drum brakes.

you don't need a lot of brake cleaner either. i can make a can work for both drums.
 

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I am saying if you use mineral to do what others are saying and use like brake cleaner or laquer thinner after that. Mineral spirits will leave the oily doo doo on your shoes.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'll give the Dawn and water a try for the removable parts. I was considering just replacing the cylinders but time and money are both tight right now.

I looked on Rocks site but couldn't find the actual replacement Drum Brake cylinders I found everything But them. Got a Link by chance?
Never mind. I hit every Brake related link in there EXCEPT! "WHEEL CYLINDER" I really shouldn't be parts shopping at 3am.
 

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just clean off the mineral sprints with brake clean on the shoes. everything else can be air dried.
 

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Rockauto had them for my 86.
Start > Ford > 1986 > Bronco > 5.0L > Brake/Wheel Hub > Wheel Cylinder
They have Wagners for $4 and Motorcrafts for $20.
 

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yo JOHN
for wheel cyclinders, Parking Brakes,

Ford advises to;
Caliper
Clean all metal parts with isopropyl alcohol. Then, clean out and dry the grooves and passageways with compressed air. Make sure that caliper bore and component parts are thoroughly clean and dry prior to assembly.



Use denatured alcohol to clean component parts. Allow the parts to completely air dry. Apply Ford High Performance DOT 3 Brake Fluid C6AZ-19542-AA or DOT 3 equivalent fluid meeting Ford specification ESA-M6C25-A to the rear wheel cylinder internal parts before assembly.

Brake Shoe and Lining
Apply Disc Brake Caliper Slide Grease D7AZ-19590-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C172-A to the threads and the socket end of the brake adjuster screw

Brake Shoe and Linings
Inspect brake shoes and linings (2001) for wear. If the lining is worn to within 3mm (1/8 inch) of the shoe, replace all four shoe and lining assemblies (complete axle set) on front wheels as required.

Do not attempt to clean or restore any oil- or grease-soaked brake shoes and linings. When contaminated brake shoes and linings are found, they must be replaced in complete axle sets.



WARNING: DO NOT INHALE DUST FROM BRAKES OR ASSOCIATED COMPONENTS. INHALATION OF DUST CAN BE HAZARDOUS TO YOUR HEALTH. COMPRESSED AIR OR BRUSHES MUST NOT BE USED TO CLEAN BRAKES, BRAKE DRUMS (1126) OR ASSOCIATED COMPONENTS. A VACUUM CLEANER (ROTUNDA BRAKE/CLUTCH/SERVICE VACUUM 164-R3600 OR EQUIVALENT) EQUIPPED FOR THIS PURPOSE SHOULD BE CAREFULLY USED TO REMOVE ANY DUST. ADHERENT DUST SHOULD BE REMOVED WITH A DAMP RAG. ANY DUST SHOULD BE CONTAINED IN A SEALED AND LABELED BAG FOR DISPOSAL. WEAR AN APPROVED HIGH EFFICIENCY CARTRIDGE OR AIR LINE RESPIRATOR AND USE EXTRA CAUTION TO AVOID BREATHING THIS DUST.

Rotor
Grease or any other foreign material must be kept off the brake shoe and lining (2001) surfaces of the rotor and external surfaces of the front disc brake hub and rotor (1102) during service operations. In handling the front disc brake hub and rotor and disc brake caliper assemblies, avoid deformation of the front disc brake hub and rotor and nicking or scratching of brake shoes and linings.

CAUTION: Never reuse brake fluid that has been drained from the hydraulic system or has been allowed to stand in an open container for an extended period of time.

Use Ford High Performance DOT 3 Brake Fluid C6AZ-19542-AA or equivalent DOT 3 fluid meeting Ford specification ESA-M6C25-A.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks Bro.

The shoes on the Right Rear look like they've never been used. Honestly, I beginning to wonder if it just wasn't' set properly at the factory. The Parking brake cable for the RR is completely frozen and won't budge. It was hanging loose in the equalizer bracket and was tight inside the drum. I've got another one on order. The Soap and wire brush worked OK to get the majority of the rust and crud off the components but they will need to be replaced when time/money present themselves. Cleaned them all off with the brake cleaner after and blew it dry.
 

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yo John,
I went 60K miles before I replaced the drums
 
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