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Discussion Starter #1
On the front drive shaft on my 89 4WD. I was greasing my front end, and also ujoints. I was told there should be a fitting on my front drive shaft because it is some type of slip yoke or something?
I looked all over it. And there is none there, and nothing broke off any where.
 

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should have a slip joke(if it has a boot like the rear), if there is no zerk fitting then you have to take it apart like the rear shaft to grease it, just make sure to mark the orientation of the shaft with a marker or some whiteout
 

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Discussion Starter #3
should have a slip joke(if it has a boot like the rear), if there is no zerk fitting then you have to take it apart like the rear shaft to grease it, just make sure to mark the orientation of the shaft with a marker or some whiteout
ah-ow.....I am supposed to take the rear shaft apart? I never did that. Is there a diy on this stuff anywhere?
 

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there's a shitload of documentation on the slip-yoke greasing. you can do a waterpump, you don't need a write-up for the slip yoke.

mark shaft orientation. (to keep ujoints in sync)

remove bolts from pinion.

cut off bands on boot.

split the driveshaft, and take boot off.

clean up nasty old grease. re-grease with your preferred grease, i like the mobil 1 synthetic (sure you saw that coming). make sure the blue teflon on the splines is still intact.

put together in reverse order, use zip ties to hold boot on. keep the clicking part of zip ties 180* of each other so they balance each other out.

done. 30 minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
there's a shitload of documentation on the slip-yoke greasing. you can do a waterpump, you don't need a write-up for the slip yoke.

mark shaft orientation. (to keep ujoints in sync)

remove bolts from pinion.

cut off bands on boot.

split the driveshaft, and take boot off.

clean up nasty old grease. re-grease with your preferred grease, i like the mobil 1 synthetic (sure you saw that coming). make sure the blue teflon on the splines is still intact.

put together in reverse order, use zip ties to hold boot on. keep the clicking part of zip ties 180* of each other so they balance each other out.

done. 30 minutes.
Oh, that was easy. Thanks! That will be this weekend. Just trying to do everything I can, since I just got it. To make sure I keep things right.
 

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Does the 89 BKO have a rear double u-joint, cv centering ball yoke Cardan knuckle with slip joint/yoke.....wonderful design....PITA......?

If so you need the small 5/16" ($4-5.00) socket for the front, 4 strange looking bolts heads that thread into the back of transfer case flange so becareful not to strip them or you're FAWKED....and for the yoke at the rear differential it's just a 1/2" wrench.

Both my drive shafts are slip yokes but you do need Mobil 1 synthetic grease which runs around $5-6.00 can BUT clean the slip shaft and inside the yoke and you'll see deep set groves, M/F and on the slip shaft only clean it down to the "blue teflon" stuff DO NOT clean that off so go easy then liberally regrease both, I used a long wooden dowel and paper towel to shove the synthetic grease down inside to the bottom of the yoke.

There several threads on the Cardan Knuckle and you need to know the "sequence" how to take it apart and put it back together correctly otherwsie it will turn into a nightmare, study up FIRST....if you have a 4" vice grip on a work bench you can rent a tool from O'Reillys basiclly for FREE if returned within 48 hours you just need to leave a refundable deposit OR Harbor Freight sells the "balljoint/u-joint" press for around $69.99 minus any internet coupon, 10-15% off. It's a great big industrial size C clamp you mount in the 4" vice grip using a 7/8 socket and long torque wrench for leverage, liberal amounts of PB Blaster pressing u-joint caps out and any oil for in gets the job done nicely.

The trick with the u-joint cap "pins" inside so you don't disturb or move them around while installing is to stick of gob of grease right inside, fill it up and when you put in the + center the grease will just ooze out, NBD...wipe and clean.

For the front drive shaft it's easier, remove the transfer case skid plate and have at it with 1/2" wrench on both ends.....don't forget to clean the slip joint "dust cover boots" inside and out, I washed mine in detergent and they came looking out like new, I used red tie-wraps instead of the PITA metal OEM clamp/s...your call.

In some case the cv centering ball yoke can be reubilt with a new seal, ball and spring form broncograveyard for around $12.00 plus shipping OR you'll need to buy one, $69.99 form O'Reillys which is what I had to do because my cv yoke was not rebuildable due to the way it's machined, doesn't come apart.

Once you rebuild both shafts you won't believe the difference when you pull away from a standing stop at a light.......NO MORE LAG, CLUNK...lol lol...and you feel the transmission shifts smoother..mine does.

Use the "search tool" and IIRC FSB member RickyB had thread with extra links on cleaning/greasing the slip joint along with some other FSB guys rebuilding the Cardan.....I've got over 500 saved posts and need to learn hot to copy the link thing....sorry!

Just take your time and be patient and "listen for plink sound" when pressing a u-joint "cap" in passed the lock spring/clip "grove" in the shaft loop/s that means it's in correctly, same for the other side and once both caps are with the lock spring clips take a look and make sure they're centered, you can carefully adjust, press left or right if need.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Does the 89 BKO have a rear double u-joint, cv centering ball yoke Cardan knuckle with slip joint/yoke.....wonderful design....PITA......?

If so you need the small 5/16" ($4-5.00) socket for the front, 4 strange looking bolts heads that thread into the back of transfer case flange so becareful not to strip them or you're FAWKED....and for the yoke at the rear differential it's just a 1/2" wrench.

Both my drive shafts are slip yokes but you do need Mobil 1 synthetic grease which runs around $5-6.00 can BUT clean the slip shaft and inside the yoke and you'll see deep set groves, M/F and on the slip shaft only clean it down to the "blue teflon" stuff DO NOT clean that off so go easy then liberally regrease both, I used a long wooden dowel and paper towel to shove the synthetic grease down inside to the bottom of the yoke.

There several threads on the Cardan Knuckle and you need to know the "sequence" how to take it apart and put it back together correctly otherwsie it will turn into a nightmare, study up FIRST....if you have a 4" vice grip on a work bench you can rent a tool from O'Reillys basiclly for FREE if returned within 48 hours you just need to leave a refundable deposit OR Harbor Freight sells the "balljoint/u-joint" press for around $69.99 minus any internet coupon, 10-15% off. It's a great big industrial size C clamp you mount in the 4" vice grip using a 7/8 socket and long torque wrench for leverage, liberal amounts of PB Blaster pressing u-joint caps out and any oil for in gets the job done nicely.

The trick with the u-joint cap "pins" inside so you don't disturb or move them around while installing is to stick of gob of grease right inside, fill it up and when you put in the + cenetr the grease will just ooze out, NBD...wipe and clean.

For the front drive shaft it's easier, remove the transfer case skid plate and have at it with 1/2" wrench on both ends.....don't forget to clean the slip joint "dust cover boots" inside and out, I washed mine in detergent and they came looking out like new, I used red tie-wraps instead of the PITA metal OEM clamp/s...your call.

In some case the cv centering ball yoke can be reubilt with a new seal, ball and spring form broncograveyard for around $12.00 plus shipping OR you'll need to buy one, $69.99 form O'Reillys which is what I had to do because my cv yoke was not rebuildable due to the way it's machined, doesn't come apart.

Once you rebuild both shafts you won't believe the difference when you pull away from a standing stop at a light.......NO MORE LAG, CLUNK...lol lol...and you feel the transmission shifts smoother..mine does.

Use the "search tool" and IIRC FSB member RickyB had thread with extra links on cleaning/greasing the slip joint along with some other FSB guys rebuilding the Cardan.....I've got over 500 saved posts and need to learn hot to copy the link thing....sorry!

Just take your time and be patient and "listen for plink sound" when pressing a u-joint "cap" in passed the lock spring/clip "grove" in the shaft loop/s that means it's in correctly, same for the other side and once both caps are with the lock spring clips take a look and make sure they're centered, you can carefully adjust, press left or right if need.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
Thanks very much! It all looks foreign to me right now, while reading. But I am sure once I am under the truck, and doing it, I will be fine. I am just making sure all my maint. stuff is done. Since i just got it, and know a lot was probably neglected.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Somewhere on You Tube I made a video of mine after it was finished but I can't remember what I titled it ...Cardan drive shaft? probably not that hard to find it..

Common sense, think about what you're doing on each step so you don't screw up and take your time gets it done..

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=95068&highlight=slip+joint

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
thanks. I did my rear one today, and was much easier than I thought it was going to be. I ended up adjusting my rear brakes, topping off rear end fluid, and some other stuff, the got cold!! I will do the front tomorrow.
I did throw the wrench in my console when I was done. I figure if I ever toast a ujoint on the road, I can slide under take the shaft off, and drive home in front wheel drive. ;)
 

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The only issue I had was not being able to get a torque wrench/socket on for proper torque settings, not enough clearance so I'll have to check things down there every so often......so far so good though!

Glad you got done without any problems ....


Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I know what you mean. I just put my wrench on and cranked it hard. Hope its tight enough.
 

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As long as you spread some loc-tight/thread locker on them it should be OK....:thumbup


Lasagna or eggplant parmesan is nice with "yellow safron rice" on the side, cost about a buck in the grocery store.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
As long as you spread some loc-tight/thread locker on them it should be OK....:thumbup


Lasagna or eggplant parmesan is nice with "yellow safron rice" on the side, cost about a buck in the grocery store.
Thats what I did. I used the medium strength. I pulled really hard with a long wrench.
 

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Either way the one thing you don't want to happen is striping any nut or bolt head.....I've got the 4 - 5/16 weird looking bolts on my rear double u-joint Cardan knuckle going to the back of the transfer case flange and you have to be carefull not to "roll over" with the wrench otherwise you wind up rounding the corners you know.....PITA ....if I could find the right thread tapper I would replace the weird 5/16"bolts with a hex , allen wrench style for a tighter fit...IDK...?

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 
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