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Issues with my 1992 Ford Brcono

5K views 56 replies 5 participants last post by  miesk5 
#1 ·
First of all, let me start off by saying how happy I am that there is a website just for Bronco owners. It's nice to have thousands of other people that can help at a minute's notice.

So my Bronco has multiple issues that I want to get fixed since this is my daily driver. So the main issue is that it's running rich and once it warms up, it idles really high. The idle also fluctuates a lot when the engine is under no load such as when the clutch is depressed and the engine is warmed up. I also have some CEL codes that I was able to flash while I was on break from work. The CEL codes that I was able to flash out are 87, 32, 33, 41, and 95. These codes are all KOEO codes. My second issue, which is tied to the CEL codes is that my fuel pump keeps priming if my key is in the run position. The truck starts and runs perfectly fine, just that the pump keeps priming when it's only supposed to prime for about 3 seconds and then turn off. My third and most minor issue is that my driver's side door and the quarter panel has a pretty gnarly dent in it and I was wondering if there are any websites that sell used Bronco parts that are already painted so that I can remove my busted door and quarter panel and replace them with relative ease.
 
#2 ·
I forgot to add that when I release my emergency brake, I sometimes have to pull on the release lever pretty hard or shake and pull it around for the E-Brake light to turn off. Even after all that sometimes the light comes back on while I'm driving.
 
#3 ·
Welcome to FSB! There are lots of good people and resources here to help you.

First, your DTCs:
32 - EVP – EGR not responding properly during test – EVP
33 - EGR did not open/ respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittently – EVP EVR PFE
41 - System lean – Fuel control
87 - Fuel pump circuit fault (check inertia switch) – Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
95 - Fuel pump: open, bad ground or always on – Power / Fuel Pump Circuits

So, you should start by trying to address the codes. It looks like you have some faulty EGR/EVP codes, and from your idle issues you explained, you may have some vacuum leaks and/or broken/missing vacuum lines. I’d explore your entire vacuum system and check for broken lines and proper routing. There should be a schematic on top of your core support.

It also sounds like your fuel pump is having issues. It could be a bad pump, pump relay, inertia switch, or any combination of those. There are ways of testing these things before you go throwing parts at your Bronco though - perhaps our local Bronco guru and guardian of the scrolls @miesk5 will pop in and offer up some more wisdom.
 
#7 ·
Welcome to FSB! There are lots of good people and resources here to help you.

First, your DTCs:
32 - EVP – EGR not responding properly during test – EVP
33 - EGR did not open/ respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittently – EVP EVR PFE
41 - System lean – Fuel control
87 - Fuel pump circuit fault (check inertia switch) – Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
95 - Fuel pump: open, bad ground or always on – Power / Fuel Pump Circuits

So, you should start by trying to address the codes. It looks like you have some faulty EGR/EVP codes, and from your idle issues you explained, you may have some vacuum leaks and/or broken/missing vacuum lines. I’d explore your entire vacuum system and check for broken lines and proper routing. There should be a schematic on top of your core support.

It also sounds like your fuel pump is having issues. It could be a bad pump, pump relay, inertia switch, or any combination of those. There are ways of testing these things before you go throwing parts at your Bronco though - perhaps our local Bronco guru and guardian of the scrolls @miesk5 will pop in and offer up some more wisdom.
Do you think some carb cleaner or some brake cleaner and spraying it around the vacuum lines and gaskets will work? What I've read is that the idle will raise when the carb/brake fluid gets sucked in.
 
#4 ·
Welcome to FSB! There are lots of good people and resources here to help you.

First, your DTCs:
32 - EVP – EGR not responding properly during test – EVP
33 - EGR did not open/ respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittently – EVP EVR PFE
41 - System lean – Fuel control
87 - Fuel pump circuit fault (check inertia switch) – Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
95 - Fuel pump: open, bad ground or always on – Power / Fuel Pump Circuits

So, you should start by trying to address the codes. It looks like you have some faulty EGR/EVP codes, and from your idle issues you explained, you may have some vacuum leaks and/or broken/missing vacuum lines. I’d explore your entire vacuum system and check for broken lines and proper routing. There should be a schematic on top of your core support.

It also sounds like your fuel pump is having issues. It could be a bad pump, pump relay, inertia switch, or any combination of those. There are ways of testing these things before you go throwing parts at your Bronco though - perhaps our local Bronco guru and guardian of the scrolls @miesk5 will pop in and offer up some more wisdom.
 
#8 ·
Yes, I did just but this truck, but these issues weren't happening until after I started fiddling around with it. To me it just seems like I bought a good truck that is rough around the edges :) Thanks for the resources I'll look into them see if I can find myself some good parts for a decent price.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Yo refe1,
WELCOME!
.
Parking Brake:
Switch for indicator light probably needs adjustment, it's mounted on parking brake bracket

Idle:
Try unplugging the Idle Air Control (IAC)
IAC Location pics & Cleaning by Bobby (blue) in a 93 @ 1993 Ford Bronco misc pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net
Testing..
"First let me say this little thing has many names. But they all talk about the same item under the hood. Here all the names I've had the torture of learning throughout the years:
•Idle Air Bypass •Idle Air Control •Idle Speed Control •Throttle Bypass Air •Idle Bypass •Inlet Air Controller
•Inlet Air Bypass •Intake Air Bypass •Intake Air Control.
This is really easy to test. First as with all problems you should gather the trouble-codes from the computer. Follow the codes for testing and repair. If you get a code that points to a problem with the IAB start the vehicle and bring the engine up to operating temperature. Allow the engine to idle without any driver input to the throttle or pedal. Go under the hood, and disconnect the electrical connector to the IAB. If the engine begins to stubble or stalls the IAB is functional and does not need to be repaired. If the engine idle does not change you should remove the IAB for inspection.
The IAB can pass and still need repair, or it can fail and not need replacing. The plunger and internal spring can get clogged with dirt and oil. This will slow down the air flow and not allow the IAB to function properly. Remove the IAB and clean it. There are 2 halves to the IAB, and you can not buy just one half, but you can take it apart to clean it. But if the internal solenoid is faulty the IAB needs to be replaced." By Ryan M.
...
This is by Nelbur; "I have spent some time this week trying to set up an air bypass around the IAC valve by cutting away some of the gasket between the IAC in and out air holes, rather than pay big bucks for Fords spacer kit. I cut away the center of the original IAC gasket from the outside of each hole to the outside of the other hole, giving about 1/2" gap for the air to pass through. I noticed an immediate improvement in the engines starting behavior, but it would still die occasionally.
It would rev up and then drop the idle so low it would die unless I would catch the idle with the accelerator. ... ...
I decided that more improvement could be had if I had a thicker gasket, because the original IAC gasket was very thin (0.018"). I had some 0.030" gasket material so I made my own with the same 1/2" cut out. This gave enough bypass to noticeably raise the idle speed and almost eliminate the dying. After maybe 50 starts in the last few days, it only died twice. After so many years of catching it with the accelerator it is darned hard to leave my foot off it. It is clear to me that by trial and error one can tune the air bypass without the need for the expensive Ford kit. I may combine the two gaskets for more bypass, but the idle is about as fast as I would want now, especially for driving in snow."

Idle Air Control (IAC) Sludge; Poor Idle TSB 91-25-07 for 85-92 Bronco & F Series & many others; "...Hard cold starts, hesitation and stalls on initial start-up or during idle or decel may be caused by sludge in the throttle body and/or idle by-pass valve. Sludge deposits or oil film on the throttle body bore and plate or the idle air by-pass valve may cause one or more of the following conditions. Hard Cold Start, Stall On Initial Start-Up, Stall During Idle, Stall During Decel, Rough Idle, Rolling Idle, Hesitation During Acceleration. A new idle air by-pass service kit (F2PZ-9F939-A) is now available for service use to correct sludge contamination concerns of the throttle bore and plate only. It eliminates the need to clean the majority of past model throttle body applications. Cleaning is not required on sludge tolerant throttle body designs released for 1991 and newer model years..."
Buy a Motorcraft IAC in event it needs to be replaced

See my Vacuum leak test in post #11 incl some jowens126 HVAC Control Panel pics/info @ Help with dtc codes and idle
One tip in it is, When vacuum leaks are indicated, search out and correct the condition. Excess air leaking into the system will upset the fuel mixture and cause conditions such as rough idle, missing on acceleration, or burned valves. If the leak exists in an accessory unit, such as the power brake, the unit will not function correctly. Or Air Conditioning when in MAX mode may switch to Defrost.

Codes:
DTC 32 typically means that the EGR valve is not fully seated. This can be due to a bad EGR valve, vacuum trapped in the EGR hose, a clogged EVR filter, or a bad EVR solenoid. It is also important to note that if you have an exhaust ventilation system hooked up, that this can also cause an inaccurate reading. Try disconnecting the system and retesting...".
JOwens has an easier test, "all you really need is a piece of vacuum tube. remove egr valve, attach vacuum line, suck on the open end, look at the bottom of the egr valve to make sure the pintle moves and hold vacuum on the line to make sure it doesnt leak down and close. thats pretty much all you need to do there. You can clean the insides up with brake kleen to get all the gunk out of it. It will make it move alot easier."

151118

EVR, TAD, TAB pic by Seattle FSB

EVR Testing, Ford; "....check the filter on the solenoid (Fig. 4, EVR filter shown). If this is clogged it will inhibit the venting of the solenoid; "...EVR Solenoids should be 20 to 70 ohms (100 to 135 ohms for 7.5L engines). A functional test can be performed on most applications by using a Scan Tool. Enter the Output State check and cycle the accelerator pedal. This will turn all the solenoids on and off. Using a DVOM monitor the voltage at the EGR solenoid(s). They should toggle from a high voltage to a low voltage. Typically this is stated in the manuals and scan tools as above 10.5 volts to below 2 volts. If the voltage does not toggle make sure that you have system voltage on the power side of the connector. If system voltage is present and the voltage does not cycle to the low side check the connector and wiring to the PCM. If the wiring and connector are okay the problem may be in the pin at the PCM or the driver in the computer itself..." READ MUCH MORE by Tomco.

DTC 33 is triggered when the EVP sensor is not closing;
Testing & Operation; "...The EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor monitors the position of the EGR valve pintle. The EVP sensor converts the mechanical movement of the pintle into an electrical voltage signal which is relayed to the PCM. The EVP sensor is a linear potentiometer in which resistance varies with the EGR valve pintle movement.
Voltage is fed to the EVP by the signal return circuit. As the EGR is opened the EVP directs more voltage to the EEC and less down the voltage reference circuit. The EVP sensor provides the PCM with information on EGR flow and EGR system failures. The EVP should read between 0.24 and 0.67 volts at idle with a closed EGR valve..."
EVP Test @
EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor Testing & Replacement by SeattleFSB
151119

EVP & EGR Location pic in a 90 by SeattleFSB

DTC 41:
TSB 91-12-11 Catalytic Converter Diagnosis
Publication Date: JUNE 12, 1991
LIGHT TRUCK: 1986-91 BRONCO, ECONOLINE, F-150-350 SERIES
1988-91 F SUPER DUTY, F47
ISSUE: Lack of power or a no start condition may be diagnosed as an exhaust restriction caused by a plugged catalytic converter. A plugged catalytic converter (internal deterioration) is usually caused by abnormal engine operation.

ACTION: Diagnose the catalytic converter to confirm internal failure. Refer to the Catalyst and Exhaust System Diagnostic Section, in the Engine/Emissions Diagnostic Shop Manual and the following procedures for service details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Lack of proper HEGO operation may cause, or be the result of a rich or lean fuel condition, which could cause additional heat in the catalyst. Perform self test KOEO and KOER, service any codes.
NOTE: IF TWO DIGIT CODES 41, 42, 85 OR THREE DIGIT CODES 171, 172, 173, 179, 181, 182, 183 AND 565 ARE RECIEVED, CHECK FOR PROPER HEGO GROUND.
If the HEGO ground is good, the following areas may be at fault:
  • Ignition Coil
  • Distributor Cap
  • Distributor Rotor
  • Fouled Spark Plug
  • Spark Plug Wires
  • Air Filter
  • Stuck Open Injector
  • Fuel Contamination Engine OIL
  • Manifold Leaks Intake/Exhaust
  • Fuel Pressure
  • Poor Power Ground
  • Engine Not At Normal Operating Temperature
  • HEGO Sensor
2. Spark timing that is retarded from specification may increase exhaust gas temperature and shorten catalyst life. Refer to the following procedure for service details.
a. Check spark timing. Check base timing with spout disconnected. Set base timing to the specification on the vehicle emission decal.
b. Check computed timing with spout connected.
NOTE: COMPUTED TIMING IS EQUAL TO BASE TIMING PLUS 20° BTDC ± 3°.
3. Misfiring spark plugs may cause an unburned fuel air mixture to pass through the catalyst, which could cause higher than normal catalyst temperatures. Refer to the following procedure for service details. Check secondary ignition, hook the vehicle up to an engine analyzer and check for a secondary ignition misfire.
NOTE: SERVICE ANY ITEM THAT IS NOT PERFORMING AT PROPER SPECIFICATIONS BEFORE CONTINUING.
4. Fuel pressure that is too high may cause rich air fuel mixtures to pass through the catalyst which could cause higher than normal catalyst temperatures. Refer to the following procedure for service details.
a. Check fuel pressure, install fuel pressure gauge, start and run the engine at idle. Fuel pressures between 28 and 34 PSI are typical (4.9L typically is 15 PSI higher).
b. Disconnect the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator. Fuel pressure typically jumps to 40 PSI ± 3 PSI (4.9L typically is 15 PSI higher). Visually inspect vacuum line for raw fuel.
NOTE: FUEL PRESSURES ABOVE THESE VALUES SHOULD BE CORRECTED. HOWEVER, THIS MAY NOT BE THE CAUSE OF THE CONCERN. SERVICE AS NECESSARY.
5. Throttle plates in the throttle body not returning to the proper closed position may cause excessive catalyst temperatures during downhill grades. Refer to the following procedure for service details. Visually inspect the throttle body and linkage for:
  • Binding or sticking throttle linkage.
  • Tight speed control linkage or cable.
  • Vacuum line interference.
  • Electrical harness interference.
NOTE: AFTERMARKET GOVERNORS, THROTTLE LINKAGE AND CABLES ASSOCIATED WITH POWER TAKE-OFF UNITS, MAY ALSO INTERFERE WITH PROPER THROTTLE RETURN. SERVICE AS NECESSARY.
6. It is extremely important that all systems related to the engine and emission systems operate properly.
a. Visually inspect the engine compartment to make sure all vacuum hoses and spark plug wires are properly routed and securely connected.
b. Inspect all wiring harnesses and connectors for insulation damage, burned, overheated, loose or broken conditions.
c. Verify proper operation of the thermactor system. Thermactor systems that fail to dump thermactor air to the atmosphere properly or at the correct time can cause high catalyst temperatures.
d. Visually inspect thermactor system for damaged or kinked hoses and perform a function test on following components: air control valve, check valve, silencer, filter and the air bypass solenoid.
e. Verify proper operation of the engine cooling system thermostat.

➡DTC 87 - FP relay circuit failure; suspect inertia switch, fusible link, FP relay
KOEO Fuel pump primary circuit failure. When the FP relay was activated by the EEC, voltage was not detected on the control circuit.
"...This code relates to low or no power reaching the fuel pump. Start testing at the fuel pump relay. The relay must respond to the EEC processor and the relay contacts must be a low resistance path for fuel pump power. Relay testing can be done in a couple minutes with the fuel pump test table.
Fuel pump relay testing;1. Use solenoid test at EEC pin 22 to check relay coil current draw. 2. Voltage at pump power terminal must be within .5v of battery power when relay is turned on with amp meter at pin 22. Check power from battery if voltage is low. Check the inertia switch and fuse if battery voltage is missing. Pin 22- (light blue-orange) Grounded to turn "on". Voltage will drop to about 1v when "on". Current draw will be 160 to 270mA Pin 8- fuel pump monitor (dark green-yellow) 0v engine off, battery voltage with engine running..."
Source: by Dustin S (Dustball, Mellow Yellow, Mr. Laser Boy)
See EEC IV 60 PIN CONNECTOR LEGEND @ Ford Fuel Injection

See MLPS PIN #30 in 89-95; E4OD additions; Truck Van Bronco.




EEC IV 60 Pin Connector Pin Diagram by Ryan M

➡DTC 95.Fuel pump: open, bad ground or always on or "always "priming""
95 in KOEO & Continuous Memory is a test which EEC performs before it energizes the FP relay; looking for a weak ground through the entire FP circuit
Fuel pump secondary circuit failure. The EEC senses infinite resistance to ground from the fuel pump on the Fuel Pump Monitor circuit.
Low or no power reaching the fuel pump. Start testing at the fuel pump relay. The relay must respond to the EEC processor and the relay contacts must be a low resistance path for fuel pump power.
Check both EEC & Fuel Fuel Pump relays for socket corrosion, loose wires, etc.
EEC Relay (BROWN Connector, next GREEN FP Relay Connector Under hood behind air cleaner assy) Location pic in a 90 and all up to 91
Source: by Need4racin (The 90 Bronco, Dean) at


Inspect Inertia Fuel Cut-Off Switch.

151120


●●●

Here are some PCM KILLER perpetrators and other causes:
Old leaky capacitors, see swapped EEC and no more codes by jowens1126
Smell around the PCM. If it smells like dead fish, it's bad.
Bad Intel 8061 chip or bad Intel 8361 memory chip
Bad Internal Voltage Regulator, see http://www.fuelinjectedford.com/images/eec085.gif by Ryan M
Burned PCM printed circuit board circuits (brown burn marks).
Water damage from cowl leaks, ESPECIALLY if you you have wet carpet or mat near driver kick panel;
or on PCM Connector due to a bad hood seal near cowl panel, viewable with hood up.
The alternator could be generating an AC voltage spike due to bad diode(s) or supply Voltage Overloads.
I recommend bench-testing the alternator for voltage output and AC voltage ripple.
Thermal stress due to excessive heat and excessive vibration that causes sensitive parts to fail.
Bronco was jump started on reverse polarity.
Overheated PCM.
Corrosion or damage due to moisture is one of the main reasons for failure. Corrosion can enter through the wiring harness and moisture can enter by a failure in the seals in the PCM itself. This happens over a period of time (5 to 10 years) due to exposure to the elements.

EEC IV PCM Removal up to & include 87- 91 COMPENDIUM "...Remove driver's inside kick panel adjacent to pedals. It comes out through cabin." by Seattle FSB; "Should be one small metal screw holding it. Just slide it out, but be careful w/ gasket for firewall. Don't mess it up, you can reuse it." by Darth_ted_82 H "To remove it first disconnect battery & get use 10 mm socket to unbolt the wiring harness "connector from inside the engine bay. Then pull plastic kick panel from inside cab & remove the retainer clip Remove it by lifting rear slightly & wiggling it out of the "pocket" ... the firewall rubber gasket will have a pretty good grip on the connector so it will take some persuasion to free. " "You have to unplug it under the hood very low on the fire wall (10 mm socket)."
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#9 · (Edited)
Yo refe1,
WELCOME!
.
Parking Brake:
Switch for indicator light probably needs adjustment, it's mounted on parking brake bracket

Idle:
Try unplugging the Idle Air Control (IAC)
IAC Location pics & Cleaning by Bobby (blue) in a 93 @ http://www.supermotors.net/registry/3982/17193-2
Testing..
"First let me say this little thing has many names. But they all talk about the same item under the hood. Here all the names I've had the torture of learning throughout the years:
•Idle Air Bypass •Idle Air Control •Idle Speed Control •Throttle Bypass Air •Idle Bypass •Inlet Air Controller
•Inlet Air Bypass •Intake Air Bypass •Intake Air Control.
This is really easy to test. First as with all problems you should gather the trouble-codes from the computer. Follow the codes for testing and repair. If you get a code that points to a problem with the IAB start the vehicle and bring the engine up to operating temperature. Allow the engine to idle without any driver input to the throttle or pedal. Go under the hood, and disconnect the electrical connector to the IAB. If the engine begins to stubble or stalls the IAB is functional and does not need to be repaired. If the engine idle does not change you should remove the IAB for inspection.
The IAB can pass and still need repair, or it can fail and not need replacing. The plunger and internal spring can get clogged with dirt and oil. This will slow down the air flow and not allow the IAB to function properly. Remove the IAB and clean it. There are 2 halves to the IAB, and you can not buy just one half, but you can take it apart to clean it. But if the internal solenoid is faulty the IAB needs to be replaced." By Ryan M.
...
This is by Nelbur; "I have spent some time this week trying to set up an air bypass around the IAC valve by cutting away some of the gasket between the IAC in and out air holes, rather than pay big bucks for Fords spacer kit. I cut away the center of the original IAC gasket from the outside of each hole to the outside of the other hole, giving about 1/2" gap for the air to pass through. I noticed an immediate improvement in the engines starting behavior, but it would still die occasionally.
It would rev up and then drop the idle so low it would die unless I would catch the idle with the accelerator. ... ...
I decided that more improvement could be had if I had a thicker gasket, because the original IAC gasket was very thin (0.018"). I had some 0.030" gasket material so I made my own with the same 1/2" cut out. This gave enough bypass to noticeably raise the idle speed and almost eliminate the dying. After maybe 50 starts in the last few days, it only died twice. After so many years of catching it with the accelerator it is darned hard to leave my foot off it. It is clear to me that by trial and error one can tune the air bypass without the need for the expensive Ford kit. I may combine the two gaskets for more bypass, but the idle is about as fast as I would want now, especially for driving in snow."

Idle Air Control (IAC) Sludge; Poor Idle TSB 91-25-07 for 85-92 Bronco & F Series & many others; "...Hard cold starts, hesitation and stalls on initial start-up or during idle or decel may be caused by sludge in the throttle body and/or idle by-pass valve. Sludge deposits or oil film on the throttle body bore and plate or the idle air by-pass valve may cause one or more of the following conditions. Hard Cold Start, Stall On Initial Start-Up, Stall During Idle, Stall During Decel, Rough Idle, Rolling Idle, Hesitation During Acceleration. A new idle air by-pass service kit (F2PZ-9F939-A) is now available for service use to correct sludge contamination concerns of the throttle bore and plate only. It eliminates the need to clean the majority of past model throttle body applications. Cleaning is not required on sludge tolerant throttle body designs released for 1991 and newer model years..."
Buy a Motorcraft IAC in event it needs to be replaced

See my Vacuum leak test in post #11 incl some jowens126 HVAC Control Panel pics/info @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threads/help-with-dtc-codes-and-idle.206824/
One tip in it is, When vacuum leaks are indicated, search out and correct the condition. Excess air leaking into the system will upset the fuel mixture and cause conditions such as rough idle, missing on acceleration, or burned valves. If the leak exists in an accessory unit, such as the power brake, the unit will not function correctly. Or Air Conditioning when in MAX mode may switch to Defrost.

Codes:
DTC 32 typically means that the EGR valve is not fully seated. This can be due to a bad EGR valve, vacuum trapped in the EGR hose, a clogged EVR filter, or a bad EVR solenoid. It is also important to note that if you have an exhaust ventilation system hooked up, that this can also cause an inaccurate reading. Try disconnecting the system and retesting...".
JOwens has an easier test, "all you really need is a piece of vacuum tube. remove egr valve, attach vacuum line, suck on the open end, look at the bottom of the egr valve to make sure the pintle moves and hold vacuum on the line to make sure it doesnt leak down and close. thats pretty much all you need to do there. You can clean the insides up with brake kleen to get all the gunk out of it. It will make it move alot easier."

View attachment 151118
EVR, TAD, TAB pic by Seattle FSB

EVR Testing, Ford; "....check the filter on the solenoid (Fig. 4, EVR filter shown). If this is clogged it will inhibit the venting of the solenoid; "...EVR Solenoids should be 20 to 70 ohms (100 to 135 ohms for 7.5L engines). A functional test can be performed on most applications by using a Scan Tool. Enter the Output State check and cycle the accelerator pedal. This will turn all the solenoids on and off. Using a DVOM monitor the voltage at the EGR solenoid(s). They should toggle from a high voltage to a low voltage. Typically this is stated in the manuals and scan tools as above 10.5 volts to below 2 volts. If the voltage does not toggle make sure that you have system voltage on the power side of the connector. If system voltage is present and the voltage does not cycle to the low side check the connector and wiring to the PCM. If the wiring and connector are okay the problem may be in the pin at the PCM or the driver in the computer itself..." READ MUCH MORE by Tomco.

DTC 33 is triggered when the EVP sensor is not closing;
Testing & Operation; "...The EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor monitors the position of the EGR valve pintle. The EVP sensor converts the mechanical movement of the pintle into an electrical voltage signal which is relayed to the PCM. The EVP sensor is a linear potentiometer in which resistance varies with the EGR valve pintle movement.
Voltage is fed to the EVP by the signal return circuit. As the EGR is opened the EVP directs more voltage to the EEC and less down the voltage reference circuit. The EVP sensor provides the PCM with information on EGR flow and EGR system failures. The EVP should read between 0.24 and 0.67 volts at idle with a closed EGR valve..."
EVP Test @
https://www.fullsizebronco.com/foru...-position-evp-sensor-testing-replacement.html by SeattleFSB
View attachment 151119
EVP & EGR Location pic in a 90 by SeattleFSB

DTC 41:
TSB 91-12-11 Catalytic Converter Diagnosis
Publication Date: JUNE 12, 1991
LIGHT TRUCK: 1986-91 BRONCO, ECONOLINE, F-150-350 SERIES
1988-91 F SUPER DUTY, F47
ISSUE: Lack of power or a no start condition may be diagnosed as an exhaust restriction caused by a plugged catalytic converter. A plugged catalytic converter (internal deterioration) is usually caused by abnormal engine operation.

ACTION: Diagnose the catalytic converter to confirm internal failure. Refer to the Catalyst and Exhaust System Diagnostic Section, in the Engine/Emissions Diagnostic Shop Manual and the following procedures for service details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Lack of proper HEGO operation may cause, or be the result of a rich or lean fuel condition, which could cause additional heat in the catalyst. Perform self test KOEO and KOER, service any codes.
NOTE: IF TWO DIGIT CODES 41, 42, 85 OR THREE DIGIT CODES 171, 172, 173, 179, 181, 182, 183 AND 565 ARE RECIEVED, CHECK FOR PROPER HEGO GROUND.
If the HEGO ground is good, the following areas may be at fault:
  • Ignition Coil
  • Distributor Cap
  • Distributor Rotor
  • Fouled Spark Plug
  • Spark Plug Wires
  • Air Filter
  • Stuck Open Injector
  • Fuel Contamination Engine OIL
  • Manifold Leaks Intake/Exhaust
  • Fuel Pressure
  • Poor Power Ground
  • Engine Not At Normal Operating Temperature
  • HEGO Sensor
2. Spark timing that is retarded from specification may increase exhaust gas temperature and shorten catalyst life. Refer to the following procedure for service details.
a. Check spark timing. Check base timing with spout disconnected. Set base timing to the specification on the vehicle emission decal.
b. Check computed timing with spout connected.
NOTE: COMPUTED TIMING IS EQUAL TO BASE TIMING PLUS 20° BTDC ± 3°.
3. Misfiring spark plugs may cause an unburned fuel air mixture to pass through the catalyst, which could cause higher than normal catalyst temperatures. Refer to the following procedure for service details. Check secondary ignition, hook the vehicle up to an engine analyzer and check for a secondary ignition misfire.
NOTE: SERVICE ANY ITEM THAT IS NOT PERFORMING AT PROPER SPECIFICATIONS BEFORE CONTINUING.
4. Fuel pressure that is too high may cause rich air fuel mixtures to pass through the catalyst which could cause higher than normal catalyst temperatures. Refer to the following procedure for service details.
a. Check fuel pressure, install fuel pressure gauge, start and run the engine at idle. Fuel pressures between 28 and 34 PSI are typical (4.9L typically is 15 PSI higher).
b. Disconnect the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator. Fuel pressure typically jumps to 40 PSI ± 3 PSI (4.9L typically is 15 PSI higher). Visually inspect vacuum line for raw fuel.
NOTE: FUEL PRESSURES ABOVE THESE VALUES SHOULD BE CORRECTED. HOWEVER, THIS MAY NOT BE THE CAUSE OF THE CONCERN. SERVICE AS NECESSARY.
5. Throttle plates in the throttle body not returning to the proper closed position may cause excessive catalyst temperatures during downhill grades. Refer to the following procedure for service details. Visually inspect the throttle body and linkage for:
  • Binding or sticking throttle linkage.
  • Tight speed control linkage or cable.
  • Vacuum line interference.
  • Electrical harness interference.
NOTE: AFTERMARKET GOVERNORS, THROTTLE LINKAGE AND CABLES ASSOCIATED WITH POWER TAKE-OFF UNITS, MAY ALSO INTERFERE WITH PROPER THROTTLE RETURN. SERVICE AS NECESSARY.
6. It is extremely important that all systems related to the engine and emission systems operate properly.
a. Visually inspect the engine compartment to make sure all vacuum hoses and spark plug wires are properly routed and securely connected.
b. Inspect all wiring harnesses and connectors for insulation damage, burned, overheated, loose or broken conditions.
c. Verify proper operation of the thermactor system. Thermactor systems that fail to dump thermactor air to the atmosphere properly or at the correct time can cause high catalyst temperatures.
d. Visually inspect thermactor system for damaged or kinked hoses and perform a function test on following components: air control valve, check valve, silencer, filter and the air bypass solenoid.
e. Verify proper operation of the engine cooling system thermostat.

➡DTC 87 - FP relay circuit failure; suspect inertia switch, fusible link, FP relay
KOEO Fuel pump primary circuit failure. When the FP relay was activated by the EEC, voltage was not detected on the control circuit.
"...This code relates to low or no power reaching the fuel pump. Start testing at the fuel pump relay. The relay must respond to the EEC processor and the relay contacts must be a low resistance path for fuel pump power. Relay testing can be done in a couple minutes with the fuel pump test table.
Fuel pump relay testing;1. Use solenoid test at EEC pin 22 to check relay coil current draw. 2. Voltage at pump power terminal must be within .5v of battery power when relay is turned on with amp meter at pin 22. Check power from battery if voltage is low. Check the inertia switch and fuse if battery voltage is missing. Pin 22- (light blue-orange) Grounded to turn "on". Voltage will drop to about 1v when "on". Current draw will be 160 to 270mA Pin 8- fuel pump monitor (dark green-yellow) 0v engine off, battery voltage with engine running..."
Source: by Dustin S (Dustball, Mellow Yellow, Mr. Laser Boy)

➡DTC 95.Fuel pump: open, bad ground or always on or "always "priming""
95 in KOEO & Continuous Memory is a test which EEC performs before it energizes the FP relay; looking for a weak ground through the entire FP circuit
Fuel pump secondary circuit failure. The EEC senses infinite resistance to ground from the fuel pump on the Fuel Pump Monitor circuit.
Low or no power reaching the fuel pump. Start testing at the fuel pump relay. The relay must respond to the EEC processor and the relay contacts must be a low resistance path for fuel pump power.
Check both EEC & Fuel Fuel Pump relays for socket corrosion, loose wires, etc.
EEC Relay (BROWN Connector, next GREEN FP Relay Connector Under hood behind air cleaner assy) Location pic in a 90 and all up to 91
Source: by Need4racin (The 90 Bronco, Dean) at


Inspect Inertia Fuel Cut-Off Switch.

View attachment 151120

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Here are some PCM KILLER perpetrators and other causes:
Old leaky capacitors, see https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/7-1980-96-bronco-tech/294553-swapped-eec-no-more-codes.html by jowens1126
Smell around the PCM. If it smells like dead fish, it's bad.
Bad Intel 8061 chip or bad Intel 8361 memory chip
Bad Internal Voltage Regulator, see http://www.fuelinjectedford.com/images/eec085.gif by Ryan M
Burned PCM printed circuit board circuits (brown burn marks).
Water damage from cowl leaks, ESPECIALLY if you you have wet carpet or mat near driver kick panel;
or on PCM Connector due to a bad hood seal near cowl panel, viewable with hood up.
The alternator could be generating an AC voltage spike due to bad diode(s) or supply Voltage Overloads.
I recommend bench-testing the alternator for voltage output and AC voltage ripple.
Thermal stress due to excessive heat and excessive vibration that causes sensitive parts to fail.
Bronco was jump started on reverse polarity.
Overheated PCM.
Corrosion or damage due to moisture is one of the main reasons for failure. Corrosion can enter through the wiring harness and moisture can enter by a failure in the seals in the PCM itself. This happens over a period of time (5 to 10 years) due to exposure to the elements.

EEC IV PCM Removal up to & include 87- 91 COMPENDIUM "...Remove driver's inside kick panel adjacent to pedals. It comes out through cabin." by Seattle FSB; "Should be one small metal screw holding it. Just slide it out, but be careful w/ gasket for firewall. Don't mess it up, you can reuse it." by Darth_ted_82 H "To remove it first disconnect battery & get use 10 mm socket to unbolt the wiring harness "connector from inside the engine bay. Then pull plastic kick panel from inside cab & remove the retainer clip Remove it by lifting rear slightly & wiggling it out of the "pocket" ... the firewall rubber gasket will have a pretty good grip on the connector so it will take some persuasion to free. " "You have to unplug it under the hood very low on the fire wall (10 mm socket)."
°•°
●●●
Other STUFF:
How To Add Your Signature »
From the navigation, near the upper right-hand corner, click on the upward pointing arrow and then select “Account Settings” from the drop down menu.

From your “Account Settings” page you will then see more navigation option of the left side. Select “Signature”.

Now you can simply enter your signature information in the text editor and click save.

In future, for any questions, or to chat about it's planned build, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie section. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (75 posts required to view or post.

Our Forum faqs @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/help/faq/
Includes for example:
How To Upload Images To Posts & How to Use Search
See more tips!

Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links) @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/foru...-favorite-fsb-links-lots-lots-tech-links.html

Free registration for some wiring diagrams (86 through 96) and Technical Service Bulletins, (80 through 96), same as by Ford @ BBB Industries- Premium Alternators, Starters, Power Steering Products and Turbochargers | TSB's & Wiring Diagrams

Please find time to participate and VOTE in our Full-Size of the Month (F.O.T.M.) & Full-Size of the Year (F.O.T.Y.) Contests @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/27-f-o-t-m-voting/
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VOTE ASAP IN ONGOING the Full-Size of the Year (F.O.T.Y.) CONTEST!
Al
Dang! Did you kidnap a Ford engineer and have him write all that cause you went all out! That's a lot of useful info right there. Thank you so much! Just one question. Code 41 says that it's for a bad catalytic converter. On my bronco I have no cats and just one upstream O2 sensor. What I've heard about those O2 sensors is that you are supposed to replace them every 60,000 miles or so. Again, thank you for the info I appreciate it!
 
#19 ·
Did you clear the codes or just see if the codes went away on their own? To see if the code is gone, you’re going to want to clear the codes and see if they come back. It could take up to 40 drive cycles for a code to just go away on its own. To clear OBD1 codes, do the procedure to read codes and once it starts blinking codes, pull the jumper out of the self test plug. Then turn off the ignition. That should clear the fault codes but retain the ECU’s learned settings. If you don’t kind letting the truck relearn its settings, pull the negative battery cable for a period of time - not sure exactly how long. Maybe pull it and rake the leaves in the yard and then put it back on.

Then.....see what comes back.
 
#20 ·
Did you clear the codes or just see if the codes went away on their own? To see if the code is gone, you’re going to want to clear the codes and see if they come back. It could take up to 40 drive cycles for a code to just go away on its own. To clear OBD1 codes, do the procedure to read codes and once it starts blinking codes, pull the jumper out of the self test plug. Then turn off the ignition. That should clear the fault codes but retain the ECU’s learned settings. If you don’t kind letting the truck relearn its settings, pull the negative battery cable for a period of time - not sure exactly how long. Maybe pull it and rake the leaves in the yard and then put it back on.

Then.....see what comes back.
Dang I forgot about the most basic step ? I'll reset the codes when I come back from school and see what I get. For the meanwhile though, I wanted to let everyone know that I ordered that Vacuum/Booster Hose Engine Dress Up Kit that @MS88Bronc used to replace all his VAC lines with. Its worth the expense since I don't want to deal with vac leaks no more. Also I was poking around under the hood yesterday and found this -
151156
Tire Automotive tire Auto part Automotive wheel system Rim


That wire with the red electrical tape is hanging on with a tiny little strand of wire! I was wondering what that wire does since it seems like it dosent go anywhere.
 
#21 ·
I think that is the radio suppression capacitor that helps reduce radio noise. I think this is the replacement part, but I just did a quick search - please verify before buying one.
 
#24 ·
Ok so a quick update on my issues. I replaced all my vacuum hoses using the materials and the guide that @MS88Bronc wrote. I unplugged the battery terminal for 15 mins or so so reset the computer. I am still experiencing the same issues with the idle surge when warm and the high idle. What else could it possibly be?
151489
151490
151491
 
#30 ·
@MS88Bronc @miesk5 Ok so I managed to record the high idle and the surging idle that happens when I depress the clutch. Here is a YT video I recorded last night. The Engine was fully warmed up. It might be a little hard to hear but you can hear the idle go sky high and the idle starts surging real bad as soon as i depress the clutch. The idle also goes insanely high when I shift into neutral. What I have noticed is that if I depress the brake hard enough, the idle goes down, but not down to the low idle I want.

 
#33 ·
#35 ·
Did you do this at operating temperature? If not, bring the engine up to operating temperature first, when your idle is high. Then while it’s running, unplug the IAC and see if the idle drops, stumbles, stalls, etc. If the idle is not affected by unplugging it, the IAC is bad. If your idle drops, it’s good. If it’s bad, you can try to clean it out (there are threads on it) or replace with a new Motorcraft unit. (Save yourself the trouble and lay down a little more $ for Motorcraft.)
 
#36 ·
I've been running the truck with the IAC unplugged and it runs better. It dosent rev up when I press the clutch or when I shift into neutral. The only time it starts to idle high and surges with the IAC unplugged is when it warms up. Does this mean the IAC is bad or that the IAC is good but there is another issue that is causing the idle to go high once it warms up?
 
#37 ·
So if you have the engine warmed up to full operating temp and unplug the IAC, the idle stays high? If that’s the case, it sounds like it might be something else. Other suspects might be the throttle position sensor or even the physical throttle linkage on top of the throttle body not returning all the way to the proper idle position. Before you start testing the TPS, see if you can push the linkage with your hand to lower the idle. I had that issue on my old 88.

 
#38 ·
Sorry for the lack of updates, life really smacked me hard and I had to refocus my attention, but now that that's over I can focus on the Bronco again. I've been playing around with the Bronco and its idle issue and discovered that if you disconnect the IAC, the idle drops instantly, however as you would expect, if you drive it in the cold and start it, it's really obvious how the IAC helps when it's cold out. Today, in particular, it was really cold and I was attempting to drive home after getting out of work, but the engine was idling so low I had to stop to reconnect the IAC to be able to drive it properly. I reconnected the IAC and the idle went sky high but then settled down slowly. However, the idle was still way higher than stock. After thinking about it on my way home, I thought to myself that since the computer is requesting the IAC to open and raise the idle speed, the computer must be receiving data that triggers that response. After some more thinking and a couple of songs later, I came to the conclusion that it could also be the ECT sensor or the throttle adjustment screw that you are NOT supposed to adjust at all. Am I correct in my reasoning or am I missing something?
 
#39 ·
Yo @refe1
Aside from IAC, additional sensor inputs from the Engine Coolant sensor (ECT), brake switch and Throttle Position sensor are also used by the EEC IV to regulate idle speed according to various operating conditions.

Was the "throttle adjustment screw" assaulted by someone?

Throttle Position Sensor Testing, Replacement & Adjustment by Seattle FSB @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/thre...or-testing-replacement-and-adjustment.203080/


Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT) Test:
Before you start blaming the engine coolant temperature sensor and replacing it make sure the rest of the coolant system is in good condition. All of the following items will affect the ECT:
*Coolant level
*Radiator Fan
*Water Pump
*Water Pump and Fan Belts
*Thermostat
*Base Timing
*Engines general condition
*Harness and wire general condition
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is a thermal transistor, which means it allows less electricity to pass through the sensor the warmer it gets. The ECT receives the Signal Retur voltage from the EEC, then allows a certain amount to return back to the EEC. Because the ECT is in direct contact with the engine coolant flow it changes resistance in response to the temperature of that coolant.

The ECT is third in command in the hierarchy of EFI sensors, this means this sensor is very important when calculating fuel ratios and timing curves. This is because of simply chemistry; fuel and spark are constants in the equation. Air is the biggest variable in combustion; it changes density greatly over a range of temperature. So keeping track of the changing temperatures of the incoming air and the engine in which it is burnt becomes very important. But due to its simplicity of design, the ECT is rarely at fault when problems occur.
Before testing the ECT or any other EFI component perform a self-test, trouble codes received during test can be used as a diagnostic tool along with other indicators. To test an ECT sensor you will need a volt meter. You can test the ECT by back probing the harness while reading the voltage returning to the EEC. Or you can removing the connector completely and test the resistance between the 2 pins on the ECT. The engine temperature must be greater than 50F (10C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180F (82C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. To accomplish this, the engine should be at normal operating temperature.

Engine Coolant
Temperature Sensor​
Temperature​
Voltage​
Resistance​
F​
C​
Volts​
K ohms​
302​
160​
0.12​
0.54​
267​
131​
0.20​
0.80​
250
120
0.30
1.18
230​
110​
0.36​
1.55​
212​
100​
0.47​
2.07​
194​
90​
0.61​
2.80​
176​
80​
0.80​
3.84​
158​
70​
1.04​
5.37​
140​
60​
1.35​
7.60​
122​
50​
1.72​
10.97​
104​
40​
2.16​
16.15​
86​
30​
2.62​
24.27​
68​
20​
3.06​
37.30​
50
10
3.70
58.75
32​
0​
3.97​
65.85​
14​
-10​
4.42​
78.19​
-4​
-20​
4.87​
90.54​
-22​
-30​
4.89​
102.88​
-40​
-40​
4.91​
115.23​
Values were calculated for VREF=5.0 volts. These values may vary 15 percent due to sensor and VREF variations." by Ryan M

Another ECT Sensor Test @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threads/checking-resistance-and-voltage-on-the-ect-sensor.184491/

ECT Sensor Location in a 96, same for your 92;



1 ECT Sensor Location (Part of 9424)
2 9F593 Fuel Injector
3 9C968 Fuel Pressure Regulator
4 9D280 Fuel Injection Supply Manifold
5 9D930 Fuel Charging Wiring
6 — Fuel Return Tube (Part of 9F792 Assembly)
7 — IAT Sensor Location (5.8L, 49 States Only)
(Part of 9424)
8 — Water Temperature Sender Location (Part of 9424)
9 — Pressure Relief Valve (Part of 9F792)

The engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT sensor) (12A648) changes resistance in response to changing temperature of the engine coolant. The engine coolant temperature sensor resistance decreases as the engine coolant temperature increases providing a signal to the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) indicating the temperature of the engine coolant.


I haven't been able to read all 2 pages here due to internet provider issues. In event throttle linkage atop throttle body is slightly stuck, as we hadhad; we leaned it and used WD 40; but don't try to lubricate the cable, as per Ford

Silicone Contamination of HEGO Sensors TSB 93-23-6 for 84-96 Bronco, Econoline, F Series, 86-94 Aerostar, 83-94 Ranger, 84-90 Bronco II & Many Others; EGO sensors can be contaminated if volatile types of silicone are used when servicing the engine.
ISSUE:
HEGO sensors can be contaminated if volatile types of silicone are used when servicing the engine. Volatile silicones can migrate throughout the system during the first one hundred hours of service. They are commonly found in liquid "silicone rubber" sealants and gasket material. These products are commonly sold in tubes and caulking-type cartridges.
ACTION: When service is performed on the engine, only use new low volatility silicone sealant (F1AZ-19562-A) where specified. Also replace the contaminated EGO sensor if required.

CAUTION: DO NOT SUBSTITUTE CONVENTIONAL SILICONE RUBBER SEALANTS WHEN LOW VOLATILITY SILICONE SEALANT IS SPECIFIED.
PART NUMBER PART NAME CLASS
F1AZ-19562-A Low Volatility RTV Sealant B
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
SUPERSEDES: 89-14-5
WARRANTY STATUS: Information Only
OASIS CODES: 403000, 490000, 499000
☢☢☢

One question, if Air Conditioning, if equipped and operational;
when Air Conditioning is in MAX mode does airflow switch to the windshield defroster hose nozzles with a small amount going to the heater outlet floor ducts?
 
#40 ·
I'm gonna check all this out today and tommorow since I have 2 days off from work. As for the AC, when I was replacing my vacuum lines I discovered a massive vacuum leak in the actual HVAC system so I just capped off the line temporarily so that the vacuum wouldn't escape through the HVAC system.
 
#41 ·
@miesk5 @MS88Bronc Okay so today just because I found 20 bucks lying around I decided to pull the IAT sensor out of the bronco and see how it looked. It was completely caked with black residue and oily crap. So I replaced the IAT and I also cleaned out the connectors and the MAP sensor with some electrical parts cleaner and let it air dry and reconnected everything. After disconnecting the battery for 10-20 minutes. I attempted to restart the engine to see how it would run and to my surprise, it took a good 5+ seconds of cranking before it started. Once it started though, I let it idle for a while so it could relearn the idle strategy. The idle was low until I pressed the accelerator pedal, that's when I felt a click and the high idle came back. So the high idle is most likely the throttle linkage. However, after getting the truck to operating temperature, the idle fluttering came back so I don't know what that could be.
 
#42 ·
#44 ·
Let me ask one thing - let’s say you are putting around at slow speed when the truck is warmed up, as you would when driving around a parking lot, and you have your foot on the gas barely above idle speed. Does the truck surge slightly as if you are lightly touching the throttle when you actually aren’t? This idle fluctuation you have sounds kind of like an EGR/DPFE/EGR solenoid issue to me. The high idle could still be a vac leak you haven’t found yet or a linkage issue.
 
#46 ·
When I am lightly touching the throttle the truck does not surge. The weird fluttering/Surging idle only happens when I am moving around 15 MPH+ and I release the clutch to shift/stop at a light. As for the high idle, I'm pretty sure I've replaced every vacuum line imaginable in the truck, including the EVAP canister lines going into the TB.
 
#49 ·
@miesk5 @MS88Bronc Ok so quick update, I had the engine running and I disconnected the accelerator pedal cable from the top of the linkage, and it caused absolutely no change whatsoever. I then proceeded to manually push the throttle linkage closed and the idle lowered and stayed low. That means the cable is good it's the linkage that is binding somewhere. As for the TPS test I'll post another update in a bit.
 
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