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Ok, so I have an 83 F-150, 4x4, reg cab, shortbox. It's a 351w with the T19 4 speed and was originally equiped with the feedback Holley carb and a Duraspark III ignition.

When I bought the truck, it had an Autolite 5200 on it, but still had the duraspark III box. It ran, but idled high and had a million vacuum leaks. I fixed all the leaks and wham, the alternator seized up.

So I replaced it with a 3g, from a 96 Mustang V6. I'm in college, I work at McDonalds, moneys tight to say the least, but you can do upgrades on the dime if you look hard. I got my alternator for 10 dollars, and they threw in all the charge cables and mega fuses I could carry free.

Bummer number 2, my big case 3g didn't fit my smog pump/alternator bracket. The bolt spacing was fine, but a rib on the case interferred with the bracket. I took a grinder to the bracket, but after 20 minutes and 2 exploded wheels in my face, I gave up on that lol. So I got to thinking, my truck is smog exempt where I live, and my smog pump belt is cut anway, so I can just do away with that. After some looking and some thinking, i relized the upper mount only spaces the alternator out from the block and lines the pulley up.

So, a trip to Home Depot and a 2 3/4 inch piece of well pipe later and I had my new upper bracket. I used a few washer to get the spacing and tension on the bolt exactly where I wanted it.

Wasn't done yet though, my belt didn't fit anymore! 17 trips to the parts store got me one that did, all I had to do was find a counter jockey with enough sense to just let me go look at the belts myself. So I had it all mounted, now to wire it. I took the voltage regulator completely out, ran the new green/red to the old green/red, ran the yellow back to the alternator, and ran my charge cable to the pos batt terminal, with mega fuse bolted to the terminal and charge cable bolted to that.

Hopped in the cab, fired it up, no spark! Yikes, somehow, the duraspark III get's it's juice from the voltage regulator. I didn't look at a diagram, because I didn't really care, I wanted it gone anyway. Back to the boneyard!

I pulled my duraspark II distributor from a 79 Bronco with a 351m. The cap and rotor were gone, so I grabbed three rotors and two caps from random Fords. I got home, knocked the roll pin out of my old distributor, pulled the gear, and put it on the new Duraspark II unit. Yes, the Duraspark 2 is about 1/2 shorter than the Duraspark 3 at the bottom where the oil pump drive is. I put it in anyway and it's been fine for a week so far, maybe I'm more likely to bust a oil pump driveshaft, time will tell. Anyhow, I went ahead and ran my plug wires like a normal 351w and bolted the thing down. The timing pointer and mark do not line up with TDC anymore, oh well.

On to the HEI module. I pulled mine from a 80's van, any 4 or 7 pin will work. I got a TFI coil from a early 90's F350, but again, any TFI will work. 10 bucks out the door, and some looks like I was crazy.

On to wiring, I completely removed the Duraspark 3 box, and the entire harness. I started fresh, I recomend you do the same, leaving stuff around that's still hot is a recipe for disaster eventually. I mounted my module to an aluminum lid I got from Radio Shack, it was meant for a project box, that I inteded to put the module inside, but it didn't fit. SO I removed my factory bottle jack, and mounted the plate there, then the module to it. I used heat dissapating paste on both the module, and the plate where it meet's the body, those thing's get hot. The module need's to be grounded. I didn't realize this at first when I rough wired it and had it hanging in the breeze. It gounds through the mount hole, so I attached ring terminals to my new mounting screws (6-32 1 1/4 BTW? and then grounded the module to one of the old mount screws for the jack that's gone now. Just a little extra insurance.

Now that it's all mounted up, I needed to wire it nicely, and this is real easy and simply, it's why I chose this route instead of the duraspark box. Easy to diagnose and fix, piece of cake, and no more fifty million wires everywhere. Plus I can still plug an MSD box into the Duraspark distributor if I ever get rich.

On the distributor side, I found a plug in my old harness, that matched the plug on the new distributor, even though the wires were different color's, so I cut it off and used that. There are three wires on the Duraspark distributor plug. Two side by side, and one at a right angle. The one at a right angle should be black, and is the ground for the duraspark system, you don't need it here, I cut mine off at the spliced plug, and left it in tact on the distributor side.

Next, there are orange and purple wires coming into the plug. These are side by side. The orange goes to pin W on the HEI module, the purple goes to pin G. Easy as pie, that side is done. Up next, the other side of the module, for this, it's kind of hillbilly, but I can't get my new TFI coil off the stupid bracket it's on, so the whole thing is just jammed up next to the solenoid until I can afford a new coil lol. Now, the negative side of the coil goes to pin C of the module AND to the tach, if you have one. Just crimp the two wires onto the same connector.

The positive side goes to pin B, AND to a switched hot in crank AND run wire. Most wires hot in run are not hot in crank. And the "I" positive of my solenoid is only hot in crank. So... An hour with my little 6 dollar tester showed me that one of the wires on the old Duraspark III plugs left over on the body harness IS hot in crank and run. It's red with a blueish stripe, but check to make sure first. There are three or four red wires over there, this one has a fusible link in it though, so that should help you finding it. So I ran that one and my tach wire through some loom left over from the 3g upgrade up by the cowl, looks clean.

With it all done, the truck needed the timing messed with, of course, and I had to do it by ear, but it runs great now, no more sputtering and coughing and dinking around with timing locked at 10 degrees and wires all over the damn place. It's clean, it's simple, and it works. Not only does it work, but it works better than the stock stuff, and I have about 65 dollar's in the whole thing.

I went from a 40 amp 1g alternator to a 130 amp 3g, and ditched the smog pump and ugly bracket, and went from wiring nightmare timing locked at 10 degress to a simple, cheap, high energy ignition system with adjustable timing. All in all I'm very happy and pleased with myself, and it goes to show, you don't need to be on a baller budget to do some upgrades.

I'm sorry I dont have any pics, I don't have a camera, but I'll get em when I can. The whole point of this was to help people searching for infor on these nightmares lol. Any questions, feel free to ask, I'll help anyway I can.

I have pics now, sorry no before though.

Here's the module mounted to the fender, the wires on the left go to the distributor, on the right to the coil.



Wires out of distributor and 3G Alt into loom,



Here you can see my salvaged plug from the duraspark III, colors don't match the II distributor



Close up of the module and my hillbilly coil stuck on it's bracket not bolted down (Hey I found it on the ground for free lol)



I have a few more to take but I need to have my GF find the charger, lemme know if anything isn't clear.

I think my next upgrades are going to be new box, gas tank, rear springs, shocks, and electric fan. I'm already collecting parts lol
 

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Cool, lets see some pictures of the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My truck looks like poop with throw up on it, but I'll get some pics up tonight
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Only shot I have right now, but yeah, the box is falling off, I need doors, fenders and cab corners too lmao. Ironically the floors and rockers look brand new, weird.

Oh, I painted the wheels (the previos owner did it with some stupid fake chrome that was peeling bad), and bumpers with Rustoleum Hammer Black.

 

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I did all for the Nookie
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My truck looks like poop with throw up on it, but I'll get some pics up tonight
Dude we ain't the country club here I don't think it looks that bad.

Now this is bad. :barf
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Lol, about the same really. I actually found a box, tailgate, fenders and doors, all rust free, for 500 bucks, going to pick it up next weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well I was at the yard about a month ago and stashed this Holley 4160 I found laying under an F250, went back and got it yesterday, 10 bucks! They looked at me like I was crazy, told me no refunds, it's yours LMAO, good! I want it! Bird's nest and all. This carb is the basis of the street/truck avenger line BTW.
Here we go, vacuum secondary isn't bolted on, manual choke zip tied open, and some kind of creature nest inside, woot!
My trick kit will be here saturday, I'll do the rest of the write up then, right now I'm going to disassemble take some more pics. I think it came off an F250, at least it was underneath one missing an intake..













Ok so I tore the carb 80% of the way apart today, here's my little write up on that, still waiting on parts to tear it all the way down, then I'll be waiting on parts to put it back together lol.

Ok so, first I took off the float bowls. The float bowls are the thing's in the front and the back that the gas line runs into. Four 1/4 inch bolts hold them on, shown here,



Now the float bowls don't just pop off, they probably need some persuasion, be careful though, it's just cast aluminum. When you get the front one off, you'll be looking at this probably,



This is the metering block, the thing in the middle is the much talked about powervalve, and the little brass screws with slots on them are my jet's. The jet's are numbered, mine are 66's, so I'll probably leave them as is for my 351w. This also needs to be persuaded off, once it is, it should look like this,



Now you're looking at the main body of the carb, the part Franklin2 is talking about filing flat. The rear float bowl comes off the same way as the front, but with an exception if you are using a 4160 (vacuum secondary "single" pumper), this here,



This is a metering plate, and all 4160's have them. The rear (secondary, 4bbl, whatever you like to call it), is fixed from the factory with this plate, no jet's to change or adjust in the back. Doesn't bother me a bit, because I don't need to, and if I do later, Holley makes a conversion kit to bolt a "Double Pumper" metering block and float bowl back there anyway. It uses those funky "clutch screws" to hold it on, I just used a Phillips head and some care to remove them. The correct tool is sold in stores if you want it.

Here it is removed,



Up next you'll need to turn the carb over to remove the baseplate, take these six screws off



You should now have this, Main body alone,



Base plate alone,



My base plate is effed up, so I'm gonna have to disassemble it and clean it and the bores, I also need to replace my throttle shaft bushings. The throttle shafts come out by removing these two screws and the butterflies themselves,



Then you can work the shafts out, I had to file thread turds off mine to get them through the bore. Now if you are just doing a simple re-gasket, you can pretty much reassemble, you don't need to mess with the shafts. I mean check them for smooth operation, and poop, and just clean and reuse if they are decent. Mine aren't unfortunately.

One other thing to talk about is the accelerator pump, shown here,



Four screws hold it in in the bottom, and there's a rubber nipple inside the float bowl. This get's replaced as part of a simple rebuild, so don't forget it. Here is everything in mine, newer ones have a weight and spring on them.



That's my progress thus far, I'll update as I move along and collect parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Got an Edelbrock Performer intake off Ebay, 75 bucks woot! My baseplate and butterflies are messed up, not sure if I'll put new bushings in it or buy another carb or new baseplate right now.

here's the intake cleaned and painted,



 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well my timing chain went apeshit on me, sooo while I was waiting for my gf to finish jumping on the trampoline :hump I went ahead and tore the front dress off, then I realized my balancer tool isnt here, so I figured why not put the intake on, and here it is.

Here's the poo I had goin on under there, oh yeah, I've been in the mud a few times too.





Clean under there, kinda curious about those numbers, maybe I'll google em lol.





When you instal intake gaskets on a SBF, they have these little tabs that make it fool proof to get them on right, they also say "head side" on them, of course I'm sure a fool will come along and prove me wrong, but anyway, here's the gaskets installed.



Here's the intake installed, I got the throttle linkage mounted, it's a little cockeyed, and I had to go get bolts for the carb and a stud for the throttle, so all that will happen tomarrow.

 

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penis
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Dam man if I would have known you were gonna do that much I have a set of 302w mustang head I would have sold you, cast iron heart shaped combustion chamber. But looks great, I am not a fan of carbs but looks great.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Eh i'm not gonna go any further into this motor unless I have to. It runs well, holds good oil pressure, doesn't burn or lose any, doesn't use any water, everythings good. I'll probably focus on the body then the suspension.

Today I bought a wood floor stepside box, and I already have my rockers and cab corners, so maybe this spring I'll paint it.
 

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its looking real nice, might as well take off the valve covers and clean them up too.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If I do take them off, do those little brackets come off from the inside with a little bit of grinding? I was thinking about maybe getting late model 5.0 valve covers when I go get another Exploder intake tomarrow, i dunno.
 

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Ford Tatted On My Chest
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:thumbup Definently like this thread, I am in the same boat bout being broke college student. I am trying to afford my bills and shit and some JY parts for my build so mine dont blow up!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
:thumbup Definently like this thread, I am in the same boat bout being broke college student. I am trying to afford my bills and shit and some JY parts for my build so mine dont blow up!

Everytime I got to the junkyard, I look for something to sell, GT40p heads, Exploder intakes, taillights, master windows switches... I pretty much fund my truck, pay our cell phone bills, pay our insurance and gas bill with parts from the junkyard lol.
 

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Everytime I got to the junkyard, I look for something to sell, GT40p heads, Exploder intakes, taillights, master windows switches... I pretty much fund my truck, pay our cell phone bills, pay our insurance and gas bill with parts from the junkyard lol.
Nice, I may start doing this once I get a lil money so I can pull stuff. Good ideas! And start posting more on the cheap fixes and upgrades!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I got it 90% wrapped up today, one of the holes for the thermostat housing was stripped, or I stripped it, I dunno. Anyway, I'll drill and tap it tomorrow, going to get a Taurus fan tomorrow, hook up my misc hoses and connections (alot less now) and try to figure out what's causing it to crank so slowly and make the terminals too hot to touch.

I did get it running though, pulls alot better with no fan and the cam retarded 4 degrees lol. Oh yeah, and not having 79 million plugged vacuum lines is nice too.





 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well, i haven't updated in awhile, truck has been sitting. Taking 6 course for 19 credit hours, working part time and being a husband is time consuming.

I've been fighting with that holley every since I bought it. The main body was warped, the power valve wouldn't seal, the throttle shaft bushings were shot... After some careful consideration of what it would take to get it up to snuff (truck is spewing black smoke right now), I decided to give the new Summit carb a try. I ordered it last night. From what I've read, it's a "improved" copy of the Holley 4010, with is a copy of the Autolite 4100, which is simply a 4bbl version of the 2100 everyone loves. So I should have it on this weekend, along with a new solenoid, battery, and molded hose for the Tstat bypass.
 

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Hope that new carb works out for ya. What you've done to the motor looks great, you should strip and paint those valve covers, get everythingthing looking clean under the hood...
 

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Well I hope the rest of the motor looks like that valley pan! (I'm sure it does) Good work so far and dont worry about the body, you should see my POS!!! just cut out the rust and let it ride. Good Luck
 
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