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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

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That is the hose you need and thier is only one used for the rear axle. A steel line is used to get from the wheel cylinders to the T block at the end of the hose.
Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
so... i dont need extended lines to run to the tires, just one that runs from the frame down, ok, that is good to know and makes sense...

any advise on installing these, i hate working on brakes over everything else
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
btw, jafo, how do you like your 400ci, i have one sitting around, thought about swapping it into my truck after a rebuild...
 

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The bracket and clip are a little hard to get to on the frame side, but not impossible by any means. A line wrench will go a long way in you not rounding the soft bolts off. The axle side is easy, just be carefull not to cross thread the hardlines into the junction block.
 

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I had a nightmare doing mine and getting them to not leak. A brake line wrench, as mentioned above, would be very useful. For me, going tight, backing off a few turns, and going tight again was the only way I could get mine to seal. If you've got a friend with a brake bleeding tool, you'll be happy to have it. You likely know, but bleed from the brake farthest from the master cylinder first, and work your way in, keeping fluid in the master cylinder the entire time. A second person is useful, but not necessary.
 

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I would first soak the line fittings and wheel cylinder bleeder valves with a good penitrating oil, (liquid wrench, PB Blasters) this will help loosen the rust that will be holding the hard lines to the fittings. As stated above, use a line wrench on the fittings and remove the hard line from the hose at the frame first. To make access a little better I like to unbolt the bracket from the frame. Try to first brake the fitting loose, if to tight, then try to tighten it some more. Your just trying to brake the fittings loose at first. If it won't move then hit with some more Penitrating oil, you do not want to start twisting the lines to remove the hose. Ounce the hose is removed, use something to plug the line (sandwitch bag W/rubber band or vacuum line plug) this will help keep the fluid from draining out of the line and master cylinder. Then remove the axle lines from the T block. Install the new hose and bleed. I like to gravity bleed first and then use a vacuum pump to make sure the lines are clear of air.
Good Luck.
 

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As far as my 400 goes, what little I have driven it, I like it. Previous owner did a basic rebuild with a RV cam, lots of torque for stock small block. Don't remember the exact numbers, but your looking at close to twice the troque as hoursepower. As far as swapping out a 351W for the 400, your going to need a different transmition. The blot patterns are not the same on a 351W as a 400. The 300 I6, 351M, 400, 429, and 460 all use the same bell housing bolt pattern. Something to think about first if you want swap in a 400.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks, ill have to buy one of those wrenches, dont have one...
 
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