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Hi yall. I need advice on brakes for a 92 jeep wrangler. Tgey were worn, and the rear wheel cylinders were leaking as well as the proportioning valve. We replaced the shoes, drums, wheel cylinders, and proportioning valve. For the fronts we did, calipers, pads, and rotors. We bled at least 1/2 a gallon of brake fluid through until it came out clean and air-free. Now the brakes don't do a damn thing. The pedal goes to the floor and it stops, eventually. They definitely won't lock the wheels up. Where would i go now.
 

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Did the master ever go dry? If it did did you bench bleed it first? Don't know if those things have abs pumps but there might be air in that as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah i believe the master cylinder did go dry when we replaced the proportioning valve. I don't think it has abs either. How do you bench bleed the mc?
 

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Have you tried pumping the brakes till pressure builds? When I replaced my MC and booster with a rebuilt one from an F350, I had to pump the brakes a few times to build up pressure the first time I tried them after bleeding the lines.
 

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Yeah we've pumped the brakes. Alot. Weve bled all four wheels twice already.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Also the parking brake doesn't work at all. Tge drum brakes should be self-adjusting whenever its put into reverse
 

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Also the parking brake doesn't work at all. Tge drum brakes should be self-adjusting whenever its put into reverse
They're supposed to be but it will take forever for them to self adjust all the way. I always adjust drum brakes manually after the shoes have been removed. Otherwise I get a really low brake pedal that doesn't just go away after a few stops.
 

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Also the parking brake doesn't work at all. Tge drum brakes should be self-adjusting whenever its put into reverse
they will,but they also need some friction to self energize the adjusters ,like stopping in reverse from at least 5 mph a few times hard,and it will take a long tome for the adjuster to adjust a long way
just driving in reverse will not adjust them

also,the shoes and pads need time to bed in to be up to their maximum potential

also ,the rear shoes may take a longer time to "wear" themselves into full contact with the drum
whenever I do a drum brake job,i have the shoes arced so them fit the drum 100% on install and really shortens break in time

and sometimes when you have had all wheels open and the prop valve moves out of center,it takes a good solid smack or two to0 the brake pedal with your foot to get things back to where them belong
also,sometimes when a master cylinder is old, and you suddenly take it out of its travel range ,like pushing pedal to the floor during bleeding, they may never work properly again
 

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Also the parking brake doesn't work at all. Tge drum brakes should be self-adjusting whenever its put into reverse
The fact that you said the parking brake doesn't work makes me almost positive your shoes are not adjusted properly, like I suggested before. (Especially since the parking brake has NOTHING to do with the master cylinder, ABS components, brake fluid/bleeding, or brake lines) The shoes will self-adjust, but you need to manually adjust them and get them close to where they need to be first. If they're way out of adjustment, they will never self-adjust. Been there, done that, got a low sinking pedal with no braking power, expected it to self-adjust, tried using parking brake, didn't self-adjust, slammed on brakes in reverse multiple times, didn't work, finally manually adjusted them, finally all better.
 

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Why are we entertaining a post about Wrangler brakes by a guy who doesn't have a Bronco? This seems pretty dumb.
Because we are a helpful forum.

Why do you think I came HERE for help with my venture's heating problem and not a chevy forum? Because I trust the opinions and advice of the resident mechanics here who are smarter and more experienced than I.
 

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Because we are a helpful forum.

Why do you think I came HERE for help with my venture's heating problem and not a chevy forum? Because I trust the opinions and advice of the resident mechanics here who are smarter and more experienced than I.
Shame on you for buying a Chevy Venture then!
 

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Roller rockers are gay
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For the price I paid I couldn't touch a ford in my area for less than double. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Why are we entertaining a post about Wrangler brakes by a guy who doesn't have a Bronco? This seems pretty dumb.
Im sorry. I have an f250. Only 12 more lugs, a different rear axle and doesnt have a power rear window. Didn't realize how big of a difference that was. Anyways, do you guys know if the front bleeder screws are supposed to be above or below the brake lines. I read somewhere that if the calipers are switched, you'll never get the air out.
 

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Yes, the bleeders need to be at the topmost position. Sometimes, the cals would have an "R" or "L."
 

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Discussion Starter #18
That was the problem. The calipers were on the wrong side so we couldn't get the air out. Now that the brakes are fixed it won't run right. Beautiful.
 

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Just Empties Every Pocket
 
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