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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Replaced the leaky power steering line. Got it snugged up. Started the truck and let it idle to see if I got the leak fixed. Truck was idling smooth, rolled under the truck on the creeper to snug the clamps I have on a piece of exhaust flex pipe (temp fix until I get it to exhaust shop) mating y-pipe to tail pipe. I'm tightening the bolts on the exhaust clamp and the truck dies. No stumble, no miss, just dies. Roll back out, try to start it up --------turns over no problem no start.

More than a 1/4 tank of gas, but I added a couple of gallons just in case.

No spark at coil. Turns over easily. I haven't messed with any electrical connections. Battery good voltage (hooked up the charger to make sure). Also noticed no fuel pump noise when key turns on.

Intertia switch is not tripped. (Button is not popped up from what I can feel).

Swapped EEC and Fuel relays around. Nothing.

Pulled spout connector - no difference.

Won't give any codes to the code reader - no check engine with KOEO test (But to be honest - the bulb might not be working) - but the code reader worked fine yesterday.

I'm at a loss. Will go at it tomorrow morning. I'm thinking I will start with yanking the ECM and opening it up to see if anything is burned.
 

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Sounds like you have been around the block a few times.
You might check (with a test light) to see if you have power through the fuel pump relay to the inertial switch, and then to the other side of it. If you do have power then see if it made it to the pump, (assuming that it did) then check the ground to the pump.
There are wiring diagrams around. I don't recall if the ground is near the pump, or at the radiator support G101 or G102.
 

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I would look at the Ignition control module as well. These are notorious for causing wires no start issues, as well as random engine stalls fallowed by no start
 

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Whoops. Just noticed the NO Spark. If that condition was before and after swapping relays, then I'd pull the PCM and see what it looks like.
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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Did you check the distributor?
 
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Yo ctandc,
Scan Tool Won’t Initiate Self-Test Due to a Poor Ground.
165124


by jermil01

Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning
If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that bulb is burnt-out or loose, socket was damaged by PO or shop, etc. or someone in tge hood removed it😎.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Did you check the distributor?
Didn't check the distributor. Looking through the 95 Ford EVTM I can't see how a distributor going bad would also keep the fuel pump from priming with key on. The truck died while running. And after - fuel pump will not prime, no spark from coil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Okay - so keep in mind I've made no other changes to wiring etc. So since I suddenly lost fire, spark and fuel pump prime and all relays / fuses test fine PLUS the fact my code reader / tester (Which worked perfectly fine hours before all this happened) would not read any codes - I decided to pull the ECM and take a look.

Easy enough to get the 10mm bolt that holds the harness loose. Made room in the fender well to get it unhooked. The harness connector WOULD NOT come loose. Yes the bolt was loosened completely. I got the black connector cover off no problem, but the harness would NOT budge. Ended up having to break the plastic collar piece on the ECM itself.

This allowed me to get the harness off the ECM.

When I moved the ECM I heard a rattle inside the ECM case.



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The nut and collar for the 10mm retaining bolt apparently. No swelled capacitors or burned spots on the circuit board I can find anywhere.

I put the ECM back together, plugged it up to the harness. Hooked the battery back up. Turned the key - and the fuel pump primed. Keep in mind - that has not happened AT ALL Since it died while idling yesterday.

So I had removed the ignition module from the inside of the fender to give me more room dealing with the ECM. So I literally laid the ECM and the ignition module on top of the relay box, plugged them up.

Turned the key - fuel pump primed - started it and it fired right up and ran fine.

So I'm trying to dig through the EVTM to get my answer - BUT I can't see how a bad ignition module can keep the fuel pump from priming - at least on initial turn of the key - it primed it without the module plugged up during my testing.

Shopping replacement ECM's now. Likely going used.

Anyone had any random weirdness like this?
 

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Yo,
Sometimes, I have seen corroded terminals on the EEC CONNECTOR.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yo,
Sometimes, I have seen corroded terminals on the EEC CONNECTOR.
Honestly that would make sense - it would be convenient for me sure - but that connector was welded on there. I may check Monday with AutoComputerExchange.com

@jermil01 mentioned using them. Will call them Monday morning and see what they have to say.

Thinking about cleaning the connector / pins, rigging something that will keep out weather (I had to break the "hood" on the EEC / ECM around the harness connector. Gasket for firewall is in good shape, hooking everything back up and see how it does. Will wait to see what they say tomorrow about a ECM swap / price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well I decided to work on some other stuff. ECM temporarily sitting on fender, would crank it up now and again and it would start fine. Went to start it up - and it wouldn't start. Fuel pump stays on when key goes on, and tail lights lit up?

Unhooked battery, unplugged ECM and it was WARM - as in REALLY warm. Guess I'm looking for a replacement ECU now officially.
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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When mine went bad, there was no visible sign... unlike many I've seen.
Honestly that would make sense - it would be convenient for me sure - but that connector was welded on there. I may check Monday with AutoComputerExchange.com

@jermil01 mentioned using them. Will call them Monday morning and see what they have to say.
He gave me the same recommendation and I was and still am, satisfied. (y)
 

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Yo ct,
Man, that's a lot!

Consider G7 Computers @ How Does This Work?
Member gedebohls wrote, " i went with sending my ecu to G7 computers in Canandaigua, NY, the reason i went this way is because i send them my unit, i get my unit checked out 100% and they will then fix as needed. I like this bc I will know for sure if my ECU is or was bad, etc, and I get my ECU back fixed. the cost is $225 plus shipping one way, if nothing is wrong with my ECU i get 100% refund. Once i get my ECU back or get an update from G7 I will update."
Update; "I sent the EEC to be rebuilt by G7 computer and they quickly sent the EEC back saying they replaced a faulty resistor. When the EEC came back I still had the same issues with the bronco , and we spent a lot of time re testing and checking things to only determine that the only possible issue was a bad EEC, so back to G7 Computer. This time they determined a faulty Main processing chip, and stated that the damage was too extensive to replace the main chip, I get it; it is a computer sometimes it is hard to pin point an issue when it is intermittent. My question is; is it just not cost smart for a company like G7 to not want to replace the main chip, or can you just not replace the main chip? So in short G7 sent the EEC back to me and will credit $225 of the $250 saying they get a diagnostic fee of $25, which I also get , "Well sort of get". "
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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Yo ct,
Man, that's a lot!

Consider G7 Computers @ How Does This Work?
Member gedebohls wrote, " i went with sending my ecu to G7 computers in Canandaigua, NY, the reason i went this way is because i send them my unit, i get my unit checked out 100% and they will then fix as needed. I like this bc I will know for sure if my ECU is or was bad, etc, and I get my ECU back fixed. the cost is $225 plus shipping one way, if nothing is wrong with my ECU i get 100% refund. Once i get my ECU back or get an update from G7 I will update."
Update; "I sent the EEC to be rebuilt by G7 computer and they quickly sent the EEC back saying they replaced a faulty resistor. When the EEC came back I still had the same issues with the bronco , and we spent a lot of time re testing and checking things to only determine that the only possible issue was a bad EEC, so back to G7 Computer. This time they determined a faulty Main processing chip, and stated that the damage was too extensive to replace the main chip, I get it; it is a computer sometimes it is hard to pin point an issue when it is intermittent. My question is; is it just not cost smart for a company like G7 to not want to replace the main chip, or can you just not replace the main chip? So in short G7 sent the EEC back to me and will credit $225 of the $250 saying they get a diagnostic fee of $25, which I also get , "Well sort of get". "
I've used G7 in the past..good company and responsive. If your EEC has a faulty capacitor or resistor as is the case with most of them it's usually fixable as long as the board isn't damaged, but they need to have to be able to determine that. A while back I had a spare EEC I was going to send to them to have checked out, before I did, I snapped a pic of the board it had scorch mark. They said not to bother that the board was probably shot..

I'm not sure the processors are even available any more, almost all of these units are just refurbs.
 
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Charlie don't surf..
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@jermil01 @BikerPepe`

Apparently my 95 5.0 MAF ECM is "a hard one" per the guy at AutoComputerExchange.com

$499.

So yeah - guess I'm checking with salvage yards.
That's stiff..You need a WAY1 or VEX1 EEC..Not sure why they would say it's a hard one..Although the rig is 25 years old but Ford probably made a couple hundred thousand of them back in the day..Keep an eye on fleabay, they'll crop up there from time to time.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well I called a buddy who ran the ECM number through his exchange. Called a salvage yard out of NC, they have one on the shelf. $75 shipped. She told me if it didn't work, they'd do a free exchange. She did mention they normally only sell ECMs from vehicles that were running when they pulled the drive train.

Maybe I'll get lucky and it's good to go. I am going to hit up one of my local yards tomorrow morning. Apparently they have two 1995 F150s on the lot. Will check both and maybe I'll get lucky.
 

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I would look at the Ignition control module as well. These are notorious for causing wires no start issues, as well as random engine stalls fallowed by no start
Amen to this ...I just went thru this with a new rebuild chased no start(died while driving it no warning) it was the Ignition control module...a 60$ part in 2020 goes right right near the (dIstributor front on) my 5.0 EFI 1987 XLT
 

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Yes, but a faulty ICM will not cause a no prime of the fuel pump.
It may cause a no continuous run of the FP while cranking the engine, if it fails to generate a PIP signal.
 
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