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Discussion Starter #1
I searched the threads of people that have done the F350 brake booster swap, but didnt really find what I was looking for.

I'm just wondering if a working junkyard F350 brake booster is considered a good find or not?

I was reman ones at the parts store today, and they run about $73, which isnt too bad, but I know you can find wrecking yard ones for $20-$35.

I know that the benefits of buying one from the parts store would be the warranty, but I dont know if that's gonna be enough to justify the price difference

Do I just man up, and buy the reman, or do I take the cheaper(and possibly just as effective) road?
 

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You can't change just the booster, you have to change the booster and MC at the same time, the bolt patterns are different from the half ton parts. They still just bolt in, but they have to be done together.

For my setup, I looked around the yards until I found an MC with pretty clean fluid in it and no crap in the reservoirs. It worked fine and is still on my rig.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
stangmata50l said:
I had a quick discussion with Ox about this and his point was, why not spend the money on new when it comes to something as important as brakes :shrug


I see what you're saying. I was just thinking along the lines of how often do the REALLY go bad. Like my stock one for instance, has never been out of my bko in the 8 years that I've owned it. If I can spend $20 and get 8 years out of a junkyard unit, I would consider that a good find.

I guess it's just more of a gamble than necessary.

Thanks for the insight.:beer
 

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It's the power booster, not the master cylinder. Your brakes will still work if it fails, you'll just have to push the pedal harder.

On the other hand $73 for a new one isn't all that much. The last time I checked into buying a new one it was close to $200.

Personally, I'd go with the junkyard booster & a new master cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Steve83 said:
derrick
Are you talking about a vacuum booster, or a hydroboost?

I've just always called them a brake booster, but I guess vacuum booster would be the correct terminology.

Rick3373 said:
It's the power booster, not the master cylinder. Your brakes will still work if it fails, you'll just have to push the pedal harder.

On the other hand $73 for a new one isn't all that much. The last time I checked into buying a new one it was close to $200.

Personally, I'd go with the junkyard booster & a new master cylinder.
Let me clarify a little. It's not a new unit, it's a A1 Cardone Reman unit for $73. I remember looking into new units, and yeah, they're pretty spendy.

I was kinda thinkin' along the same lines. New master cylinders are fairly cheap, so that wouldnt be a problem. I know it's kinda hit or miss with reman master cylinders. I've personally always had good luck with A1 Cardone, but I remember when I worked in the parts store back home, that their master cylinders were getting warrantied out(prematurely) all the time...So that right there is enough to get me to spend the little extra on a new one.

I was just a little confused which route to take with the vacuum booster.
 

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I put a reman booster on my F250,it didn't work properly(worse than the old one),the parts store didn't have another one(would have to order)so I went to the auto wreckers and got a used one,works great(that was 5 years ago)Please note I was going from a 1984 booster to a 1995 booster(1984 F250 truck),I kept the 1984 master cylinder and and elongated the mounting holes in the master cylinder outward 1/8" on each side(the washered nuts still cover the holes)The brakes work way better with the newer booster than they ever did with the older booster(even when the older booster was working properly).If you are going to elongate the holes for the master cylinder to fit the booster,I wouldn't go more than 1/8" on either side.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
bronco1 said:
I put a reman booster on my F250,it didn't work properly(worse than the old one),the parts store didn't have another one(would have to order)so I went to the auto wreckers and got a used one,works great(that was 5 years ago)Please note I was going from a 1984 booster to a 1995 booster(1984 F250 truck),I kept the 1984 master cylinder and and elongated the mounting holes in the master cylinder outward 1/8" on each side(the washered nuts still cover the holes)The brakes work way better with the newer booster than they ever did with the older booster(even when the older booster was working properly).If you are going to elongate the holes for the master cylinder to fit the booster,I wouldn't go more than 1/8" on either side.

I'm going with a significantly larger tire, so I just assume go with the F350 M/C. They're cheap enough to buy new.
 

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If you go to a bigger piston master cylinder,you will lower the output pressure of the master cylinder in relation to the input pressure from the booster.Smaller master cylinder piston size or larger caliper/wheel cylinder size = more braking pressure at the brakes with no additional pressure at the brake pedal.I would start with the stock master cylinder and elongate the mounting holes to fit the booster and then re-evaluate how the brakes work.
 

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go new...and i meant that once you had the new booster and m/c in place...it would not be hard to change the booster if you had to...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Steve83 said:
Only if that's the type of booster you're after. I was just curious because many people go for the hydraulic type used on some diesels that runs off the PS pump.

Click my sig & look thru the Brakes & Hubs album for info on each.

I should have known better.

Thanks Steve.:beer
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Damn, Steve:shocked

That's good info right there.


I was matching up the different pressure lines on partsamerica.com, and my only concern is the pressure hose going from the power steering pump, to the Hydroboost unit. I'm getting ready to do a sag swap as well, and I dont know if the fittings meet in the same place(power steering pump side) as the pic in your illustration.

If a making a new pressure hose, is the only hurdle, then this looks like an awesome swap.

As far as I can tell, everything can be purchased from the local parts store(checker).

Again tho, I have to ask about junkyard units compared to reman units. Is the extra money worth it with these units? Is taking the cheaper, junkyard route too big of a gamble?

Spending the extra money isnt the problem. I dont care about that part. If a part performs well, it's worth it to me. It's the spending pointless money, for something that quite possibly could have been bought for a fraction of the cost, and performed just the same.

As far as I can tell, only 1 member has installed a hydroboost setup on his bronco.
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53632&highlight=hydroboost

The link he left to hydratechbraking.com has a half way decent forum. They also offer a kit for 83-96 bko's, but there is no way I'm gonna spend $700 for something that I can prolly piece together at Checker for less than half the price...Billet isnt that cool.:twak I'm gonna do a bit more research b4 I open up the wallet.

Anybody else know of anyone that has done the install on their bko? I couldnt find anybody on miesk5's site either.
 

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One thing with the hydroboost is I do notice a tougher steering when having to steer while stopped on a hill with a trailer it is tough to turn and that pump is whinin'. Important to keep the fluid good!

Adrianspeeder
 

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I figure you got a good chance of getting a good one, the booster seldom goes out, usually its the M/C... give it a whirl!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hmmmmmmmmmmmm.

Well, I went to the parts store yesterday, and they couldnt come up with any part numbers for the hydroboost unit, and the bendix part# that I got off of partsamerica, wouldnt work. He never tried to look in the books(they usually dont anymore:twak )though, so I just gave up trying to do research with him. I went on A1 Cardone's website, and found a number that came up for different Ford truck applications(F53 and F59 chassis:shrug). So I sent the number to Cardone's customer service. They checked it against the Bendix number I already had, and it came up good.

So, to make a long story longer...It looks like one can do a hydroboost swap with forever warrany parts, without a core(I sure as hell dont have one), for right around $325-$350. That's pretty good compared to that hydratech setup.:thumbup

I just want to look around at some wrecking yard prices, on the hydroboost unit, to see how it compares.

Do anymore of you Superduty owners have any more experience with it?
 
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