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Kenne Bell TS-3000

13792 Views 35 Replies 19 Participants Last post by  rebelranger
Who else has one of these?

I'm running the complete original Kenne Bell system, including boost-a-pump and FMU. I'm not sure that I'm completely happy with it and was wondering who else has a similar setup, what tuning device you are using, and how do you like the results?:
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Sorry boys his Supercharger is a 1.5L limited to 8psi, that isn't the blowzilla KB. That is the standard F-series SC which will max out, due to displacement not pulley size at 8psi...running a 9-10# pulley will overheat the unit and seize it. As for working with the tuning of it a walbro inline can and will do the trick, something like this

It is a 255lph inline Walbro that is a flowthru unit, set to a Hobbs switch so only more fuel is pushed when needed, mine is a 2psi hobbs. This will cover fuel up to 100psi with a 12:1 FMU...your stock intank fuel canisters will run out of fuel in the 1/4mile if you stay fuel throttle that long, a quick blimp of the throttle and your intank canisters will be good again though.
As for timing you need an aftermaket timing source to light those one stage cooler to avoid detontation on the plugs.. I recommend a good crane unit but to each his own, you sound to already have the TRC timing retard control, the factory SC install comes with a Crane unit, so the BTM box from crane is a plug and play.
You only have a 65mm throttle body on that puppy change that out.
Do you have a boost gauge? Install it below the SC head unit on the base that attaches to the lower manifold, very very worth it.
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? Install in the schrader valve, I like electric but again your choice, very IMPORTANT.
Check out, they are KB haters because they are speed demons but have great advice. what else, tranny is good, fuel good, timing ahh timing you really should set your base timing at *10 with spout connector out and let the factory setting take out any additional timing, just run good 91-93 octane and in the high heat run octane booster.
A/F yes get a wideband and install it 6-18inches from the header...get headers shortys are good and cheap.
Cooling the factory fan works great but causes belt slip...get rid of it as time and money allow, I like a windstar van dual fan setup with some controller device, your choice.
Plug wires and cap need to be in good condition...OHM test them.
My setup is the 2.2L and is never fully done, I get it together run it, change it, run it, change it, clean it up, it's a passion...

oh as for tuning at 8 psi your 19lb injectors are up to the task, 24s would be great though...again just some custom tuning, but upgraded injectors will still require you to upgrade that fuel pump, cheapest, easiest, and time being best route is the inline like I have posted.

Sorry for long post if you have any questions just ask.
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looking again it looks like you have a fuel pressure gauge, so what reading are you getting on that at full throttle..around 1800rpms should be full boost, if in park or neutral you get different readings and your VSS signal box(black black beside your heater core, it's a KB factory part) helps deal with your preload boost levels.
Oh results too, I run 6,8,10psi pulleys on mine with the walbro, crane unit and trc, fmu, hobbs, with a wideband, fuel pressure gauge, boost, etc. and the 8psi is unbelieveable, I pull 96psi FP at full 8 psi running 11* timing on 93 octane with 1* retard and the thing is a beast. Will spin all four 35s MTs on pavement, can run 1/8 without fuel problems, mud runs and the truck still gets home. Remember at 14.1psi which is close to atmospheric pressure you double your engines HP, a stock block is good for somewhere in the 11-13 range.
whew, rebelranger, where to begin. Thanks for so much info. I believe you are right that these SCs were 1.5 or 1.7 liters displacement.

I do have a boost gauge, right on my dash.
I do have a fuel pressure gauge, right on my dash next to the boost gauge.
At wide open throttle I get around 6.5psi manifold pressure, and with the Boost-a-pump set to '30' I think I'm somewhere between 75 and 80psi fuel.

Question: Why would I run the 2 fuel pumps? It makes sense to me to run a single 255lph or a 300lph in the tank at a low duty cycle. Perhaps you know something that I do not.

Then I obviously need to install bigger injectors. I thought 29lb was the next size up, but could be wrong. Then add a wideband and take it to the tuner.

I do have the crane timing retard installed, and it works. Are you suggesting that I install an ignition box and coil like this: to increase spark energy?
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As far as performance, I can imagine the 2.2L must be great. Even this little 1.5 has great torque very low in the rpm range. Its easy to get the Bronco sideways in traffic when I'm not careful with the loud pedal. However to me I feel like there is a little bit of a dead feelign when I'm all the way WOT. Almost like when the EEC kicks into open loop max fuel its not feeding enough fuel. Hence my feeling that larger injectors and a fuel pump with greater volumetric capacity is essential to prep for a good tune. Thoughts?
As has been mentioned already I would pony up and upgrade the fuel pump, injectors & MAF. Then use a moates quarterhorse to tune it.
Call Pete at Wide Open Throttle he is in corona he is a sct dealer and does all his tuning in house he has done a few tunes for me
okay i'll add my 2 cents. you won't need a bigger fuel pump. also if you have a timing retard knob, get rid of it. your computer will fight it constantly and your timing curve will look like a serrated blade. just get a larger maf and 30lb injectors. once you have these installed take it to a dyno and have it tuned.

i was running 7-8 psi on my truck and had a ton of problems (i too have a 96 with obdII). just by tuning i picked up about 80 hose at the rear wheels and my fp had plenty of flow to support my hp. yours will too. i would venture to guess that you setup will produce about 250-280 hpo at the wheels. 30 lb injectors coupled with a prom mass air will do you fine.
just call pro m and tell them what you are running as far as addons and injectors and they will send you a mass air.

the msd boost controller netted me 13 hp just by disconnecting it. it was messing with the ecu badly.

edit: also with your cam profile and heads 4000-4500 is going to give you peak torque and hp. when we tuned mine we "shut off " the rev limiter and found that after 4800 it was just making noise. the power and torque fell off fairly quick. however it builds the boost and power very quickly. i ended up making like 270 at the rear wheels and about 300 ftlbs. i need to find my old dyno sheet to be sure.
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bad96, you are speaking my language. everything you've said makes sense to me.

Thanks for the advice everyone.
the displacement is 2.2L
they had a 1.5L also

Why would I need to get an a9l eec if I can have a local tuner dyno tune and reflash my stock obd2 eec?
Yes, dont listen to anyone saying put in a A9L or chip this chip that, you have OBD II, you can have your truck put on a dyno, have a wire put into the diagnostic port and have your PCM reflashed.... easy as 1 2 3
i should add that even though mine truck is obdII the computer couldn't be programmed to accept my tune, apparently the com can only do so much, so there is a piggyback chip plugged into it. the shop that dyno'ed it did this all. find a shop that specializes in fords, i did (mcnews automotive near harrisburg pa) and i couldn't have been happier. they def know their sh**.
With OBD-II it makes it easier to tune for injectors, cams, heads, etc. The issue right now is you do not have injectors, you are running a FMU, and boost a pump.
The second fuel pump is only on during +x amount of boost via a hobbs switch, if you run to big a fuel pump without your motor needing all the fuel, you heat the fuel needlessly, over work your fuel system needlessly, and cause blowback (causing fuel to find an escape route, weak seals, fuel cap, injectors, etc) If you run the inline system you don't have to tap the fuel tank to get to the intank, and it can easily be taken out of the line if needed for some reason. As in my inline pump picture you can see I can skip the inline and return to stock by undoing two lines.
I do highly recommend the crane box, your link is the one I use, it can be returned to stock if ever needed, keeps the plugs firing and adds many options to your current setup. Do not delete your timing retard box unless you have someone tune your factory ECM to take timing out as your rpms build. Regardless of boost or not your motor advances timing with RPMS you do this on a SC motor without timing retard kiss that motor goodbye, unless running high octane fuel on low boost...110 octane on no more then 6-8psi. Check the forums I think total timing is 24* where base timing with spout connector out is 10* advancing your base timing makes great low power and only slightly changes your total timing, which can only be adjusted via a tuner or sorts.
Injectors come in sizes of 19, 21, 24, 30, 36, etc I know up to 80s have been run and tuned to idle well... max on your setup would be 30s. Your SC isn't going to create any more boost then what is showing on your gauge without better flowing heads and manifolds (lower and upper) you may squeeze out 9psi with alum. heads and a ported polished manifold setup.
Your fuel levels if not dropping off are good with your current boost levels.
Opinion Time: If you have a dead spot in power, it is your factory cam or factory torque convertor(TC), doing that...check out advancing your cam, or get a replacement, this is a hard choice check the forums and be honest with yourself about where you want the powerband then pick a cam. If the TC is the problem, talk to someone else, I like manuals.
Heads your current E7 heads could be swapped and net you a HUGE increase in power from idle to redline, I love AFR 185s they are great choice of torque and HP, they are alum. so your motor can take alittle more timing creating more power....BUT they cost a few bucks, again if you do heads check your combustion chamber number to go with an aftermarket cam if you get one. There has been results of 50-70hp from idle to redline just by changing heads!
Intake your current setup is the factory truck intake for the 351, and it blows. you can get your lower ported and polished to give a few ponies but really not worth it, sorry.
Overall, do the fuel and spark upgrades I recommend, find some empty road, adjust timing run it, adjust timing run it, retard boost, adjust timing run it, play with this combo until you find your happy spot. I was at a dyno tune with a KB SC and saw 40hp come from just adjusting timing and boost retard! Once you find your happy power spot then you have the next issue your Tranny!
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Well my fuel pump finally gave up on me. Luckily I was at home already when it just flat out quit pumping.

I went ahead and ordered a 255 lph Walbro unit and swapped it in. It sure pumps for more fuel than the stock pump however I'm now concerned that the FPRs and return lines cannot support the return flow, or perhaps the boost-a-pump is the culprit, but at WOT pushing air at 6 psi the fuel pressure is maxed on my gauge at 100 psi!

I believe I was accelerating better with the stock pump at 80ish psi of fuel pressure than I am with this crazy high pressure I have now. I'm wondering if I'm actually flowing less fuel through the injectors at this extreme pressure... so I'm going to dust off one of my old fluid dynamics books from college and do a few calcs.

But I think the point is that I'm going to stick a stock fuel pump back in. I really don't need to be pushing that much fuel to the rail when I can't even use it.

The only stock replacements I see are Carter and Airtex. Any opinions or experience with these two?

At the same time I think I like the Moates Quaterhorse for tuning this thing. I need to find a tuner with a dyno in the SoCal area who is an expert with these.
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The FPR and return will be fine.

The biggest problem with these rigs is the ECM is not supported by tuners out there. Most likely you need to find a ECM from a lightning and swap it in. If you are OBD-II you will have better luck getting a tune on it, if SD it is harder. Some tuners even SCT boys will not touch SD rigs.
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