kill switch/ start ideas

14142 Views 15 Replies 8 Participants Last post by Alvin in AZ, Jun 27, 2011

xakpxplaymate08

Discussion Starter · Jun 22, 2011

What are some good ideas for a killswitch / kill start ideas? My bronco has a different steering column and does not need a key to start. What ideas should I do to protect myself?

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

95fsb

· #2 · Jun 22, 2011

take the coil wire with you when you are in a sketchy place?
Or wire a switch into the coil power supply and hide it really well, but be able to get to it yourself

BroncoJoe19

· #3 · Jun 22, 2011

There are a number of circuits that you can tap into and break the connection with a switch.

One that comes to mind which is already inside the cab is the fuel pump inertia switch. It'll crank, but it won't start.

Another low power location would be the fuse that feeds the EEC relay trigger side. It'll crank and get no spark nor fuel therefore it won't start.

xakpxplaymate08

Discussion Starter · #4 · Jun 23, 2011

BroncoJoe19 said:
One that comes to mind which is already inside the cab is the fuel pump inertia switch. It'll crank, but it won't start.

Another low power location would be the fuse that feeds the EEC relay trigger side. It'll crank and get no spark nor fuel therefore it won't start.

So would it be best to find the fuel pump switch? I don't k ow which one the rec relay would be. I can look up all the wiring when I get home
I got the manual at home

pfun41

· #5 · Jun 23, 2011

wire you can disconnect for the fuel pump or eec power relay.

BroncoJoe19

· #6 · Jun 23, 2011

xak........
you didn't post what year bronc you are working on, but for many the inertia safety switch is located inside the cab, high on the firewall by the driver's left foot. If you pop the switch UP that will kill the power to the pump. If you depress it, then the pump will get power. I don't know how good an idea it is to pop that switch every day. I would run a separate switch if I was to go that route.

xakpxplaymate08

Discussion Starter · #7 · Jun 23, 2011

Its an 87 302. I wanna have a secondary switch. I got it today and the connectors. It's a 16A toggle switch

2ndHelping

· #8 · Jun 23, 2011

95fsb said:
Or wire a switch into the coil power supply and hide it really well, but be able to get to it yourself

That's what I did recently. Well hidden without being a PITA for myself to get at. 50 amp toggle that cuts power to the coil. The perpetrator would really have to know what to look for if they wanted to go through all the trouble of popping the hood and tracing out wires for an hour or so. When I use it in public, it appears as though I'm just taking a quick peek at something, it's that easy to reach, but the average joe would really have to hunt to find it. I still want to put an alarm system in, more for break ins & swiping stuff.

miesk5

· #9 · Jun 23, 2011

yo,

Kill Switch Wiring Diagrams; "...The "MAIN KILL" is best if you store the vehicle for long periods and want to keep the battery from draining, or to allow a trickle charger to work. The disadvantage is that all the memories (radio stations, clock) will be lost immediately. The "STARTER DISABLE" will allow the engine to continue running, but won't allow it to be started. This will preserve the clock & radio memories, and confuse most thieves since every other electrical device will work normally. It will appear that the starter is defective. "ANTI-THEFT" is even more confusing since the memory circuits will continue to function normally, but the ignition switch will appear to be defective..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net

Kill Switch; "...These are Hella battery switches with heavy-gauge battery wires, used on 03-up Land Rover Range Rovers & LR3s as transport cutoff switches, rated at 100A continuous; 1000A @12V for 10 sec. The battery terminals are unusual, but also high-quality. The wire with the post is about 17" and the other is about 28". The switch is on when the red key is inserted, pushed in, and turned to lock. The nosepiece of the switch is 1 1/4" long from the mounting face. The wires have heat-shrink wrapping at the switch terminals, but they can be removed easily, exposing posts with nuts. [URL="http://db.hella.com.au/cgi-bin/catalogue.pl?flcmd=preview&flmaint=290"]Hella spec page: ; Wal-Mart is selling the CalTerm chinese knock-off of this switch for ~$10 now..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net[/URL]

HELLA
4650 Battery Master Switch
Description For cars and medium trucks.
Complete with removable key.
Protection Degree of protection IPX4.
Load 1000A at 12V DC for 10 seconds
500A at 24V DC for 10 seconds
50A at 12/24V DC continuous (at a maximum ambient temperature of 80oC with 35mm2 lead connected with ring-type terminals).
Function For interrupting circuits (prevents theft and short circuit).
Accessories & Spare Parts
4652 Key.

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3

BroncoJoe19

· #10 · Jun 23, 2011

miesk5 you're incredible!

Here's another diagram to add to the mix, this would give a No Crank situation, and radio function/memory would be preserved.

Standard transmission equiped vehicles have a clutch interrupt switch mounted on the clutch support. Automatic trans vehicles have the same wiring, but they are jumpered. If you look closely at the above diagram (sorry for the poor quality) the Red/Light Blue circuit is the wire that you want to switch.

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xakpxplaymate08

Discussion Starter · #11 · Jun 25, 2011

BroncoJoe19 said:
xak........
you didn't post what year bronc you are working on, but for many the inertia safety switch is located inside the cab, high on the firewall by the driver's left foot. If you pop the switch UP that will kill the power to the pump. If you depress it, then the pump will get power. I don't know how good an idea it is to pop that switch every day. I would run a separate switch if I was to go that route.

Could I hook up another switch to the power or ground side of the fuel inertia switch

BroncoJoe19

· #12 · Jun 26, 2011

xakpxplaymate08 said:
Could I hook up another switch to the power or ground side of the fuel inertia switch

Yes.
FYI, the power goes in one side, and out the other of the inertia switch. The circuit is grounded on the other side of the pump.

xakpxplaymate08

Discussion Starter · #13 · Jun 26, 2011

So either or wont matter?

BroncoJoe19

· #14 · Jun 26, 2011

that's right, either one, it doesn't matter.
Let us know how you make out.

aussiebko

· #15 · Jun 26, 2011

I think a good idea for a pretty much invisible switch would be to use a simple gate switch that uses a magnet or ferrous object to make the contact. The switch could be mounted say under the cup holder and all you would have to do is leave a magnet/metal sitting in the cup holder above it so that the starter will work, lift the magnet out of the cup holder and the starter is disabled. Since it would only be on the start circuit it wouldn't matter if the magnet moved once the car was started.

Alvin in AZ

· #16 · Jun 27, 2011

aussiebko said:
I think a good idea for a pretty much invisible switch would be to use a
simple gate switch that uses a magnet or ferrous object to make the
contact. The switch could be mounted say under the cup holder and all
you would have to do is leave a magnet/metal sitting in the cup holder
above it so that the starter will work, lift the magnet out of the cup holder
and the starter is disabled.
Since it would only be on the start circuit it wouldn't matter if the magnet
moved once the car was started.

Wow, that's really is a cool idea.

All I did was use an old knife switch in my '75 F150 and it kept it from being
stolen -at-least-twice-! No, kidding they had the wires pulled loose from the
rear of the ignition switch and prob'ly just plugged their own in, complete with
a key. See what they had in mind? Cops told me that's how they do it before
their first attempt on mine, because my father-in-law's '74 Camper Special
was stolen, so I made a point of doing something to mine.

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/knifeswitch.jpg

Used the same type switch on my '91 Bronco but instead of breaking the
positive side of the circuits like in my '75, I broke the grounds on the starter
relay and other relays in the Bronco. Fuel pump relay circuit is broken too.

Isolating the starter relay from the fender was easy using the right materials
and fasteners. It was stuff I had saved from taking things apart.

Just ran
a ground wire inside and under the dash, other side of the switch is ground.

Tinkering fool in AZ

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