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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As these broncos go up in value, I suppose a home grown kill switch would be nice to prevent theft.
I want to place one that falls right to hand when I get in the car
I had an older 5.0L Mustang and I wired switch to the fuel pump roll-over relay (in case car rolls)
It saved car being stolen, the beauty is that it lets car run for 30 sec and THEN it shits the bed!
What crook is going to troubleshoot a dead car in the middle of the street !

At any rate, can anyone thing of any particular item on a '96 bronco that I could do the same with?
I suppose if I kill the fuel pump in any way it may run for a bit

....Any good ideas?
 

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I was just thinking of cutting a switch into the fuel pump relay sense circuit as I’ve got the 460 upgrade harness totally unwrapped. Perhaps even running a light somewhere as a reminder the switch is active. But I’ve not thought about it any more than that.
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Ignition wire wont let it even start. Itll just crank and crank. Same with the NSS or clutch safety switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Is there a wire under dash or inside engine compartment that controls the electric fuel pump in the tank? (I have a '96 with 351)
I like the idea of cutting off fuel supply in that truck will start for a bit and burn residual fuel in the rail and then die (I think)
It creates even more frustration for the in that the noise of the truck starting has been made and/or truck is now in the street....gotta go !
 

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Joisey don't smell funny
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Before the Sniper install, I had a kill switch for the Carter fuel pump. Worked good, but even with a thirsty 460 one could get a block away before it died. I like the idea of killing the hot wire to the Sniper panel. Don't think anyone would know what to look for with that. Anyone who knows Ford, knows how to jump the starter at the relay, so other means of no-go is needed.
 
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Yo para,
Kill Switch Wiring Diagrams; Starter Disable, Anti-Theft & Main Kill
Source: by Steve83 (BANNED) at 1983 Ford Bronco Diagrams picture | SuperMotors.net

"...The "MAIN KILL" is best if you store the vehicle for long periods and want to keep the battery from draining, or to allow a trickle charger to work. The disadvantage is that all the memories (radio stations, clock) will be lost immediately. NEVER turn the switch off while the engine is running.

The "STARTER DISABLE" will allow the engine to continue running after it's switched OFF, but won't allow it to be started. This will preserve the clock & radio memories, and confuse most thieves since every other electrical device will work normally. It will appear that the starter is defective.

"ANTI-THEFT" is even more confusing since the memory circuits will continue to function normally, but the ignition switch will appear to be defective. This configuration doesn't require a heavy battery switch since the starter relay only needs a couple of amps to work. This also requires the switch ON for starting, and then it can be switched OFF while the engine is running.

Wal-Mart & some parts stores now sell a Chinese knock-off of the Hella switch linked above for about $10. It's not worth it..."
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Bingo! I agree 110%
I just need to find 'that wire' ....I suppose anything that stops the fuel supply (fuel pump) to the EFI on a '96
I dont want to kill the juice to the injectors....thats a no start
I want the ****** to think he's getting away and then , "Oh Shit!"
 

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Hot to the distributor , no spark , no start or run … just cranky cranky.
Personally we have always had a big dog and won’t live in big city “hoods”.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
This is a pic of under the hood on a '96 351
Is anything here a good candidate for a kill switch?
Specifically, I am looking for something that will kill fuel SUPPLY to injectors, not the injectors themselves
I want it to run for about 30 sec and then die

180719
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The other part is to keep the switch itself in a real handy spot that falls right to hand
When a passenger gets in, they probably wont even see you do it
 

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The relay sense wire I mentioned earlier would be a low current option, but you’ll have to run a circuit into the cab.

Assuming a ‘96 has the inertia switch in the cab (especially on passenger side), you could cut into that circuit. That would require a switch that could handle fuel pump circuit current. Or either power a switch in the cab that opens a relay to kill fuel pump current.
 

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This is a pic of under the hood on a '96 351
Is anything here a good candidate for a kill switch?
Specifically, I am looking for something that will kill fuel SUPPLY to injectors, not the injectors themselves
I want it to run for about 30 sec and then die

View attachment 180719
Why so they could possibly load it up on a trailer? Best to kill the ignition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes! I had a switch on the inertia switch on another car and it worked perfect !!!
It effectively kills the fuel pump allowing the small amount left in the fuel rail to be burned....then kaput
Is the inertia switch there (under the hood) or under the dash somewhere?
I dont quite understand what you said.
 

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The fuel pump is operated by a relay. The relay is turned "on" by the computer completing the "sense" side of the relay which then pulls the contacts in to pass current through the relay and to the pump. If you interrupt the sense side, the fuel pump relay will never turn "on", and you can do this with a low-current switch. Downside is this wiring is all in the engine bay so you'd have to pull something into the cab. You can also interrupt the current to the fuel pump itself by cutting into its feed. On the '91 van I have experience with, the feed runs from the big firewall connector, through the dash, into the passenger side kickpanel to the inertia switch, then ultimately back to the fuel pump. You could cut into this feed but it would have to be with a higher-rated switch. The computer would turn the relay "on", but you'd still have the switch to interrupt current to the fuel pump. That wiring is likely in the cab and may be more convenient for an in-cab switch, it's just a higher current service.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Packagejr: "The fuel pump is operated by a relay. The relay is turned "on" by the computer completing the "sense" side of the relay which then pulls the contacts in to pass current through the relay and to the pump. If you interrupt the sense side, the fuel pump relay will never turn "on", and you can do this with a low-current switch. Downside is this wiring is all in the engine bay so you'd have to pull something into the cab" I have no problem fishing a wire thru the firewall. Can you identify the part that I need to make the break in? ...The fuel pump relay is right there on top of the manifold ?

2nd Helping: Thats a beautiful description of the completely dead no start no nothing kill switch. I am more diabolical in my intent. I want it to run for a while and then die. Makes a bigger mess for the crook and they are more likely to run. Also a no-start, they know what you are up to. They might burn it just to spite you.
 

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I actually have an ‘80 so I don’t have the relay. But I’m dropping in a ‘91 460 so I’ve been working through the harness and wiring.

Somebody will have to clarify if a ‘96 is similar. If it is, there’s a relay box on the driver’s side fender. The fuel pump relay is a green relay. The smaller gauge wire set would be the coil that pulls in the main contacts for the pump. When I get back to my EVTM I will post a picture.
 
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