[rmaine30]

I just got a 1996 BRONCO 5.0 E.B. Edition, and i shut it off and it was still running and then i saw a little toggle switch on the dash just under to the left of the steering wheel and when i flipped it, it shut the truck off, so i tried to start it and it woudnt then flipped the switch to on and it started up, so im guessing a KILL-SWITCH??? ( its wired into a black box under the steering wheel with a small white connector end on it with 2 wires)
i was working on the interior so i unhooked the battery to not kill battery from having doors open and when i plugged battery back in, i never flipped the switch back on and it started right up. so i stared it again with the switch on and off and it started , then i shut the truck off with the switch on and off and shut off both times.

so im confused on if the switch itself is bad, or what happened, because the truck starts and shuts off either way now, i even took the switch off and turned on and shut off the truck with the wires disconnected then connected and it didnt do anything but but turn on and off like normal.

any info or thoughts on the switch or anything, the truck starts and shuts off but i want to make sure this wont cause later problems.
thank you!

 

[Mikey350]

Welcome to FSB.
The switch did not come from the Ford factory. Having that knowledge, it is difficult to determine what the Previous Owner did or what circuitry he/she cut in to.
If there are any logos or name on the "black box", I suggest trying to contact the company so to find what was cut/spliced/etc.
The next best course of action would be to trace the circuitry going into the "black box" and find where the "black box" connects to the factory wiring. We may be able to help you restore the ignition system the way Ford built it.
On the outside chance that you know the P.O., ask him/her what that "black box" is.

 

[rmaine30]

Seems like a bunch of the wiring for the truck goes into the black box. It's a rectangular black.box directly under the steering wheel. Ill post a picture of it later today. But just weird the switch worked to where if I shut the truck off it was still running and now the switch and wire doesnt do anything and there isnt any blown fuses or anything.

 

[miesk5]

Yo R,
As Mikey advised, post logo or name of the box's source here.

​

"The "MAIN KILL" is best if you store the vehicle for long periods and want to keep the battery from draining, or to allow a trickle charger to work. The disadvantage is that all the memories (PCM adaptions, radio stations, clock) will be lost immediately. NEVER turn the switch off while the engine is running.

The "STARTER DISABLE" will allow the engine to continue running after it's switched OFF, but won't allow it to be started. This will preserve the clock & radio memories, and confuse most thieves since every other electrical device will work normally. It will appear that the starter is defective.

"ANTI-THEFT" is even more confusing since the memory circuits will continue to function normally, but the ignition switch will appear to be defective. This configuration doesn't require a heavy battery switch since the starter relay only needs a couple of amps to work. This also requires the switch ON for starting, and then it can be switched OFF while the engine is running.

Another option for the Anti-Theft setup is to transfer the Alt & FB feed to the same side of the kill switch as the fuse link, which is effectively the same as the Main Kill, but without the requirement for such a high-capacity switch.

Wal-Mart & some parts stores now sell a Chinese knock-off of the Hella switch linked above for about $10. It's not worth it.

This diagram was created from this set of symbols using MSPaint" by Steve
●□●

Find out if speed control, if equipped, recall work completed by a dealership. Call local dealer or register and view status @ https://owner.ford.com; or @ https://vinrcl.safercar.gov/vin/ ... have VIN ready.
"Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN. THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE."
To confirm current status, use this guide by jowens1126 @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/foru...ruise-control-recalls-repair.html#post6530073
Note that the 93 recall is different than the 94-96 recall.

For any Bronco questions or to chat about it's planned modifications, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (75 posts required to view).

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To save you time and for better responses, please fill out your Signature with location, year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. .
From the navigation, near the upper right-hand corner, click on your avatar and then select “Account Settings” from the drop down menu.

From your “Account Settings” page you will then see more navigation option of the left side. Select “Signature”.

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□
96 Bronco-F-Series Workshop Manual (PARTIAL) via 1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual

96 Bronco Owner's Guide, Maintenance Schedules & Parts and Accessories by Ford @ https://www.fleet.ford.com/partsandservice/owner-manuals/

96 Bronco Dealer Brochure @ https://www.supermotors.net/registry/3549/15947-2 ... scroll down

96 Bronco Quick Tips Brochure Excerpts & some Eddie Bauer options @ http://www.supermotors.net/registry/2742/80431-2

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[rmaine30]

 

[rmaine30]

The Black and white wires hanging down are for the switch. and you can see it plugs right into the black box with a small white connecter end

 

[rmaine30]

it wouldnt start until i put the 2 wires together, and power to the dash lights and door chime, etc wouldnt come on unless they were touching as well, seems like an anti-theft set up.

 

[rmaine30]

could be an EDR black box for manufatureres to learn how their cars performed and it came with a spot to link in a cut off switch? becuase i know alot of vehicles starting in '94 had some type of blackbox installed and was a drivers nightmare because all your cars information could be used against you if you were in an accident, etc.

 

[BikerPepe`]

Like @Mikey350 said, that is NOT OEM. Looks like a piss poorly installed nightmare. I've got an alarm setup in mine and I really don't need it and I don't care for it locking the doors or chirping out now and then but I've left it in place because it's not causing problems and it looks very much like your mess.

 

[rmaine30]

yah, it just seemed odd that it had an actual insert for the connector to go inn like it was manufactured to be some sort of "cut off switch" i was thinking possibly anti-theft system from early 90s which came with a "kill switch"

 

[rmaine30]

ITS A REMOTE CAR STARTER! AND THE SWITCH IS THE ON/OFF FOR THE ENTIRE "BLACK BOX"

LINK IS INFO AND INSTRUCTIONS FOR IT

http://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/ig/designtech/20723_v9.6.pdf

 

[rmaine30]

it also states it can be used as a 3rd party ignition safety cut off that ties into the igniton wire. so mine is tapped in as remote starter and "anti-theft/kill switch"

 

[MojoJojo]

I’d rip that after market stuff out unless you need a remote start and can get a fob for it.

 

[rmaine30]

i was going to look into it to see if it can still be paired to a fob, be nice to start up by remote here in central NY with the snow lol

 

[BikerPepe`]

Just be sure your local LEO's won't ticket you for remote start, or more accurately, a running, un-manned vehicle. Many cities do because of all the easy car theft's when folks leave a running car outside... just beggin' to be snagged by some scumbag who knows enough about the alarms systems.

 

[rmaine30]

Ya we dont have starter/idle laws here. But ya I'm going to mount the switch under the dash so it's not visible. And pull the fuse on the main power to the box so it's not functional