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Discussion Starter #1
I am currently undecided. I already bought the dropped pitman arm and am willing to sell it if the knuckle under is the better option. If I go the knuckle under, I will purchase the bushings from BC Bronco or JBG:
http://bcbroncos.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=37_82&products_id=96

Details:
1989 Bronco TTB
Daily Driver - 95%
I bought 4" Superlift w/new rear leafs (stock leafs sagged way to much)
I will run 33" mud terrains (Super Swamper LTB or Radial TSL)
3.55 gears for now
LS rear and open front for now
I do NOT want to break on a trail if I can help it
I do not want to swap in a solid axle

1. Which is prefered for my daily driver? (Saginaw w/ dropped pitman or knuckle under conversion)
a) Is the Saginaw pump needed?
2. If knuckle under, is there a tool or method to ream the knuckle without removing it from the Bronco? I won't take any short cuts. I need to know the correct way.
3. If Saginaw w/ dropped pitman, will this put excessive force on the mounting bracket for the steering box or anything else?
4. Will the LTB's be OK for a fullsize Bronco?
5. Is there a better knuckle under option that is not rediculously expensive?

:popc1:
 

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ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
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8,761 Posts
Youll need a reamer to properly flip the tierods to the top. I cant remember the degree of ford rod ends though, although maybe somebody else does. Gotta be careful with it, its easy to ream a crooked hole. IMO flipping is better, gets the tierods up and out of harms way, although id imagine a drop-pitman arm on a 4" lift would get ya decent steering angles too.

The Saginaw is a pump, not a steering box, so it has no impact on the frame. It just works better than the stock pump. Id run your stocker till it craps out, and then do the swap.
The LTBs are fine. Theyre a little on the soft side, but will work fine. With 33s, unless you lock the front you probably wont have any breakage whatsoever.
 

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FSB warrior
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:stupid LTB's are the worst daily driver wear wise, boggers last longer but are louder
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I guess I wasn't real clear. Which is the better option?

Option 1:
The dropped pitman arm must be 25% to 50% longer than the stock unit in order to get the steering geometry right (I think?). Then you add the extra weight of a 33" to 35" tire pushing on the 125% to 150% longer lever, the load on the power steering pump and the steering box has got to be in the neighborhood 150% more than a completely stock system. I am not sure if I would need the saginaw pump. If I went this route, I would wait until the stock pump crapped out on me before I would replace it with the saginaw pump.

Option 2:
Knuckle under conversion allows you to use the stock pitman arm. The only extra stress on the steering box and the power steering pump is from the larger tires (33" or 35" in my case). If this is the better route, is there a tool/gadget that you can clamp onto the knuckle to ensure that you are reaming perpendicular to the face of the knuckle without removing the knuckle from the Bronco? I would use the tapered bushing in the bottom to remove any slack. This should provide a tapered hole all the way through the knuckle (bigger on top) to install the stock tie rod end.
 

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do the sag swap when you have the extra cash...id def get the dropped pitman arm.,..i can believe you dont already have it....you may still have steering geometry problems w/out the pityman arm and the knuckle under swap...

dc
 

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reptillikus said:
Youll need a reamer to properly flip the tierods to the top. I cant remember the degree of ford rod ends though, although maybe somebody else does. Gotta be careful with it, its easy to ream a crooked hole. IMO flipping is better, gets the tierods up and out of harms way, although id imagine a drop-pitman arm on a 4" lift would get ya decent steering angles too.

7 degree taper
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Could this be a tool to ensure that the reamer is going straight into the knuckle?


I found this doing a search for knuckle under in the SAS forum. What is it and where would I find one?
 
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