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Discussion Starter #1
I have a Koenig electric winch; I believe it is the 08 Low-mount version.

It leaks oil from places I didn't even think were possible. I will be removing it to disassemble, clean, inspect, and hopefully repair it. The winch came on my Bronco, but I'm unsure if it works.

There's not much Koenig information out there anymore, and much of the information is from old Jeep/LR pages that are 15+ years old and often filled with broken links.

I am decently mechanically inclined, so I think I can start taking it apart, but I love to see a cross-section or exploded view so I can see how to take it apart. I do not have any winch repair experience.

Does anyone have any information related to Koenig winches? I'll even take a PTO version. I'm just looking for something to start with.

If I don't forget, I'll take pictures and document, and perhaps I can finally contribute something of value to the board.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Parts for Koenig Winches

Hope this helps.
Email addy at bottom.
Thanks WD. I have seen that before. It's a good start to the site, but he never got around to filling it out. It also appears he's in Europe, which could get interesting.

Correction - my model appears to be an 08 Upright. I hope to have it out this weekend and perhaps I can confirm some details.

I have grand plans to use this thread as the rebuild thread. So for the three people in the world still rocking these winches, stay tuned! Just don't get in a hurry - quick progress isn't in my DNA.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks WD! I had not found the first two for sure, and I thought I was fairly Google versed. The exploded views will be helpful because, even if it is not my exact winch, most manufacturers use similar methods in their execution. Really provides a leg up on what to expect and when to expect it.

I'm hoping to have it off this weekend and maybe cleaned up enough that I can identify exactly what it is, and perhaps start some disassembly.

Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Some updates:

Today's RKI is not the same as a Koenig winch. They advised that the Koenig winch line was bought by the guy in the Netherlands and he's the sole source for parts. FYI.

The winch is bolted to a structure mounted to the frame horns of the Bronco. It got a little interesting, but winch on the cart. Filthy, which has been the story of this Bronco. Rode hard and put up wet.



First order was to pressure wash it. I thought I may find Jimmy Hoffa under the grime. Much better.



Undo the 9 bolts holding the lower gearbox cover on and remove cover. Yes, those are leftover needles from the outside needle bearing. Looks like I'll be needing a new one.



Pull the motor shaft ball bearing. Mine was a MRC 200S. Still available, and runs about $10-15 bucks. Slide hammer set up with a two jaw puller worked. If my small gear puller had a smaller jackscrew that would clear the bearing ID, it would have worked better. Pull the idler gear - it just sets in needle bearings, nothing holds it in. Remove four nuts and take the motor out the back side of the cover. It's a boss fit and was snug, so some love from my deadblow got it freed up.



The work shaft drive gear will also just pull off the shaft. Be mindful not to lose the key.



Take off the 6 socket head capscrews behind the drive gear and remove the rear cover. It has a long boss fit into the upper gearbox housing, so it was a bit of a chore to get out.




Rotate the worm gear CW to "unscrew" it from the drum shaft spur gear. This bearing set has seen better days. My worm gear shaft has significant corrosion at the oil seal location, so I'll be working on a fix there.



To be continued...
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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that winch looks Beef... how much does that thing weight? is it only an 8K rated winch?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It is beefy. Has to be a solid 80 lbs. It was all I could do to hoist it up on the table.

The 8K rating is based on a similar winch rating provided on the Koenig website, but this winch has no identifiers I've been able to find to date, so it's just an assumption. I figure it's enough to help out the Bronco if I ever get in a bind.

I've got it fully disassembled and in various stages of cleanup. I'm hoping to update this thread with a few more pics in the next day or two. I've got some decisions to make on the rebuild coming down the pipeline.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Opposite drive end bushing was a little stuck to the shaft, so a gentle pull worked it free. Bushing in good shape.



You can see the drum clutch in the previous picture. It slides on some keys and drives the drum when its wings mate with the drum drive pins. Clutch slid off and keys removed. Keys were tight, and I tried a few different techniques for awhile, but the diaganol pliers is the only way to go. Keykeeper is only piece shown left.



My drum removal pics are upside down, so I won't post them. Basically, I then beat the drum shaft out of the drum by hitting the opposite drive end of the shaft. Both drum bushings were stuck. The opposite drive end finally let loose, but the drive end bushing was so stuck I actually drove it out of the drum. Leftover shown below.



The worm gear tapered bearing cups are inaccessible from the rear, so it's near impossible to drive them out. I have friends in high places, so a weld bead on the cup ID shrunk them enough to come out. I'll be posting a whole parts list once I confirm a few more things. Mostly cleaned up below:



Items forthcoming:

1) I'd like to get the worm gear thrust set correct. I didn't measure it before disassembly, but based on a dry set (no end cap gasekts), it was probably in the neighborhood of 0.100". That's absurd, so I'm going to drive it down to just a couple thou, but it will likely require I cut on the worm shaft spacers.
2) I've had no response from the guy in the Netherlands on gaskets. They mic about 0.032", so I'm thinking I could be in the neighborhood of a 1/32" gasket, which I'll have friends in high places help fab. The main gearbox vertical joint has to be appropriately gasketed because the fits for the end covers are determined by gasket thickness.
3) My motor is dead, and the starter guy I use found water and oil inside, and the thinking is that the rotor is shot. So I'm on the hunt for a new one. This one has a 3/4" shaft, a hole for a 1/4" roll pin that drives the gear, a fit diameter right around 2.995" or so, and a bolt circle of 4" with four 3/8-24 studs.

Off for spring break!
 

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'96 XL EEC-V 347 E40D 1356 411 6" lift 35x12.50x15
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You know, one "used" to be able to get kits to rebuild starters w/
bearings, brushes and such. (1970's & 80's )

That motor looks awfully similar to an old starter.
Maybe you could check with an auto electric & alternator shop.?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You know, one "used" to be able to get kits to rebuild starters w/
bearings, brushes and such. (1970's & 80's )

That motor looks awfully similar to an old starter.
Maybe you could check with an auto electric & alternator shop.?
I did. His concern was that the water and oil present inside the stator has damaged the insulation to the point the electricity path is corrupted. There was a lot of sparks and little action out of the motor. It wasn’t totally locked up when tested.

He’s a good honest hand. I’m going to try to locate a spare on his recommendation. If not, I’ll give it back, let him clean it up, and see if we’ve got anything to work with.

Thanks for your suggestions and sticking with this thread.
 

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'96 XL EEC-V 347 E40D 1356 411 6" lift 35x12.50x15
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Cool,
"Good & Trustworthy" guys are hard to come by these days.

Thanks go to You for sharing your adventure. (y)
 
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