Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

Registered
Joined
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So my 94 5.8 e4od has been running crappy for months. I changed out tps, iac, replaced all vacuum hoses. EOER test threw a 311 code is why I focused on thermactor system. Finally found that my TAB air valve solenoid was bad. Was ready to order a new one when my engine started sputtering so bad it would die while driving. Just replaced bad cat. Now it will start fine until it warms up then while driving it sputters and backfires and dies. I let it sit for a while and it starts up and drives for about a mile and repeats sputter backfire and dies. Any suggestions? Cap and rotor? I'm stumped. I don't think the bad TAB solenoid would cause it to backfire and shutdown? Help...
 

Addicted to Junk
Joined
10,407 Posts
How are the coil and distributor? Not just the cap and rotor, but the bits below that. Theres electrical gizmos in there than can fail.

What I thought was a carb issue turned out to be a bad coil...
 

Registered
Joined
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Any info on how to test?
Also...just went out and ran codes and I guess everything is mint馃憣 cuz code 111 馃槀
 

Registered
Joined
19 Posts
Your ICM (Ignition Control Module) could be the issue. Make sure to use a Motorcraft ICM. The Autzone version is crap. I am running a 93 Lightning 5.8 in my 77 and it did the same as you describe until I finally tried a new ICM. I tried a new fuel pump and distributer prior to trying a new ICM. I was getting no codes. It would just stumble back fire and die. It would restart once things cooled off.
 

Registered
Joined
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the input COBlu. Gonna give that a try before I take it in. I'm guessing something ignition.
 

Premium Member
Joined
34,870 Posts
There's a part related to the PIP sensor that's improperly marked/coded for our rigs by most auto suppliers. They recomend a black one but we need a grey one. Wish I knew more but this one had me wondering. Somebody smarter than me should know what I'm talking about.
 

Registered
Joined
4,613 Posts
There's a part related to the PIP sensor that's improperly marked/coded for our rigs by most auto suppliers. They recomend a black one but we need a grey one. Wish I knew more but this one had me wondering. Somebody smarter than me should know what I'm talking about.
His (@db95bronc )'s truck should have a BLACK ICM. (I think you went through this on your truck. The wrong ICM will cause poor performance as the ignition doesn't advance when told to by the PCM.) The wrong ICM will throw a 212 MEMORY (CM) code. No Check Engine Light either, just the 212.

Interesting in that his "name" infers a 1995 Bronco but he said he has a 1994 Bronco. Not a big deal as both of those years need a BLACK ICM

If the parts places try to sell you a grey ICM (no matter what their computer catalog says), ask them for an ICM for a '95 Mustang 5.0. When they come out with a BLACK ICM, buy that one and try and find a diferent parts place to buy parts.
 

Premium Member
Joined
34,870 Posts
Dammit. I messed it up anyway. Sorry. So... the parts stores recommend the Gray unit but we need the Black, right?

Yea, it was a consideration when my rotor threw the tip and destroyed my PIP sensor. My ICM was fine, so I didn't have to replace it... but it was a noteworthy mention.
Sounds like I'm wrong anyway though... if he's not getting a code for it.

Back under my rock. Good luck with it.
 

Super Moderator
Joined
14,447 Posts
OP, have you swapped in a new ICM/TFI yet? That intermittent stalling is one of the symptoms of a bad TFI, but you'd also see a crank no start problem as well. As @Mikey350 advised you'd see a 212 code. Having said that, I'd be leaning towards a problem with the PIP. I'm not into throwing parts at a problem, but a new dizzy is a relatively inexpensive swap and will at least eliminate that from the equation.
 

Super Moderator
Joined
23,353 Posts
Yo DB,
Backfire, No Codes:
See attached.
When vacuum leaks are indicated, search out and correct the condition. Excess air leaking into the system will upset the fuel mixture and cause conditions such as rough idle, missing on acceleration, or burned valves. If the leak exists in an accessory unit, such as the power brake, the unit will not function correctly. Or Air Conditioning when in MAX mode may switch to Defrost.
See my Vacuum leak test in post #11 incl some jowens126 HVAC Control Panel pics/info @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threads/help-with-dtc-codes-and-idle.206824/
 

Attachments

Registered
Joined
712 Posts
you have a pickup coil to under the dist. i had dodge that had that go out on a dodge and as soon as it was warm it would miss and stall.
 

Registered
Joined
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Ok. I changed out the ICM but unfortunately not the problem. Meisk...I did the vacuum test and my TAB solenoid needs replaced but I figured something else would cause this extreme condition.(Missing real bad now and can't get it out of the driveway without backfire and stall). I've read about the pickup coil/pip sensor. Maybe try the dizzy next before I give in? Any tips on the distributor replace?
 

Registered
Joined
2,370 Posts
There's a part related to the PIP sensor that's improperly marked/coded for our rigs by most auto suppliers. They recomend a black one but we need a grey one. Wish I knew more but this one had me wondering. Somebody smarter than me should know what I'm talking about.
BikerPepe,
When I saw your response, I literally LOL. Black, Grey, IDK but someone who does know, would help out. I too am thinking ICM from the symptoms.
 

Registered
Joined
1,346 Posts
Yo DB,
Backfire, No Codes:
See attached.
When vacuum leaks are indicated, search out and correct the condition. Excess air leaking into the system will upset the fuel mixture and cause conditions such as rough idle, missing on acceleration, or burned valves. If the leak exists in an accessory unit, such as the power brake, the unit will not function correctly. Or Air Conditioning when in MAX mode may switch to Defrost.
See my Vacuum leak test in post #11 incl some jowens126 HVAC Control Panel pics/info @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threads/help-with-dtc-codes-and-idle.206824/
I was gonna say... Backfire was usually vacuum from my understanding...
 

Registered
Joined
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I replaced the smaller one closest to the manifold. The one before the muffler is good.
 

Registered
Joined
1,133 Posts
Normally, when the front cat sh!ts the bed, it blows a bunch of particles into the rear cat, which can clog it up. Run your truck with the rear O2 sensor out . If things improve you'll know it's clogged.
 

Super Moderator
Joined
23,353 Posts
Yo DB,
Do what flomaster suggested.

With no codes, look at the attached Ford Backfiring table of usual perpetrators. Those are the items a Ford mechanic would test.
Here it is again:
150887
 

Registered
Joined
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Isn't there only one 02 sensor on the 94 right before the first cat?
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top