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1979 Ranger XLT 400m T18
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172 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well, I'm not sure how much of a build this is going to be, but I think I could benefit from recording my progress over time fixing up my Bronco. I'm going to try to list things I need to work on and then go through and get them done one by one. I've taken pictures of many of these things and I'll come back and try to edit them in. I also plan to cross things off as they are done and add new things as they come up.

Here's what I'm starting with.
 

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1979 Ranger XLT 400m T18
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172 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Important things to do
Fix rust hole


Scratches/rust rear quarters


Holes in roof


Antenna hole


Rust drivers door by mirror


Fix both window cranks


Passenger window regulator? (replaced)

Floors need, carpet, or vinyl, and sound/heat insulation


Hole for clutch rod


Replace or clean seatbelts


Passenger door only opens from the outside (Fixed with new part)


Figure out how to protect and care for fiberglass top


Door weatherstripping


Radius arm bushing


Broken parking brake bracket (Replaced with JY part)
 

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1979 Ranger XLT 400m T18
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172 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Not important
Dents rear quarters

Dents roof

Replace/Fix tailgate lock cylinder (works) (ordered replacement lock cylinders)


Cracked bug guard (Removed)


Broken grill insert (Replaced)


Dent drivers door by mirror


Replace Lock knobs (replaced)


Drivers door card needs attached better (new clips)


Drivers should belt winder box loose and rattles (put some weatherstripping foam under the loose edge. I'm calling that good for now. I can't line up the bottom screw holes because the roll bar is in the way.)


Less ugly radio (replace with aux switches in panel?)


Remove rear sub before children stand on it (removed)


Rear armrests


Headliner warped


Dome light cover (Installed)


Fix/clean sun visors (ordered pin for right side)


Dash crack


Replace shift knob with stock or repro. (OEM knob is so much better)


Replace cig lighter? (put a switch or charger there? find factory piece?)


Bigger tires and new wheels (Got wagon wheels)


Steering wheel logo/horn insert


Get a moon visor (they look cool)
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400/C6 92 K documented miles &1994 Bronco,XLT 85K original miles
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937 Posts
You've got your work cut out for you but other than the rust/body work most of it can be done in your driveway. Get to know Dennis Carpinter, LMC truck and several others. Those radius arm bushings in the suspension photo are common items to replace.
 

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1979 Ranger XLT 400m T18
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172 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Yeah, I'm pretty happy with how nice this one is. I usually see much worse rust. I'm not sure why that one spot got bad whole everything else stayed ok but most of the rust I could just stuff/sand off and repaint and be fine. Most of the "problems" are just parts needed and easy replacements. This thread seems negative but that's just because I needed a list. I've been prowling LMC truck and bronco graveyard already and most things I need are available, some even for reasonable prices.

Let me ask some questions about the things I want to fix first.

I'm assuming something isn't working right but both door locks only turn ccw. So I can only unlock the driver and lock the passenger from the outside. Does that sound like something wrong with the lock it with the internal linkage in the door?

Does anyone have a good picture or diagram of the door weatherstripping? It is different on both my doors and doesn't work well at all. It is VERY NOISY driving on the freeway at 70.

Other than that I need to get the title work and registration taken care of (Which is hard because the office currently won't let anyone in in person). So I can drive and use up more gas before dropping the tank to see why my fuel gauge doesn't work. I'm guessing sunk float.
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400/C6 92 K documented miles &1994 Bronco,XLT 85K original miles
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937 Posts
In addition to M5's post, 1A Auto has videos of installing the trim. Not sure about the locks. They're easy to remove and you're half way there doing the rubber in the doors. I have a post somewhere on here but in doing the door panels use only Dorman PN 700-337 as the ones I've used from LMC will twist the heads off when you twist them into place. While the door panel is off, it's a good time to to add a sound deadner. I use Hushmatt & Noico (Amazon) easy to fit/apply.
 

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1979 Ranger XLT 400m T18
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172 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Ok, well, I got some work done today and made pretty much no progress. :D

So I took both door cards off and checked stuff out. The passenger door lock will now lock and unlock both if I wiggle the key but the drivers still only moves in the unlock direction from the key.

Question 1: Is the tailgate lock cylinder the same as the door cylinders? Can I go find cylinders from a van in the JY and have 3 that match?

Question 2: The ignition key fits in the door cylinders fine, but won't turn because it is a different profile. Is it possible to get door cylinders and pin them to work with my ignition key on a '79?

I'm going to need to get more of those little tabby things that look like bent wire in a wad of gum to hold the panels on. I verified that the passenger door needs a window regulator and the inside door handle mechanism. They are both broken.


Question 3: Should the window cranks stick out of the doors this much? They have a plastic washer to reduce friction between the crank and door card, but there's half an inch of clearance there. The PO said the door panels were from a different year truck, maybe that's why?


Question 4: This spring was between the door and the door card around the window regulator shaft on only the driver's side. What is it for and does it belong?


I tried to remove the bug deflector and bent the tip on my flat blade impact tip. I'm going to need a good supply of penetrating oil for some of these projects. :ROFLMAO: Also while I had the hood open I took a picture of the fan shroud and overflow tank and auxiliary and tertiary fuel filters.






Question 5: Aren't these older trucks not supposed to have an overflow? Is it better to have it despite that?
 

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1979 Ranger XLT 400m T18
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172 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Well, I got out and worked on a couple more things. I figure if I keep doing little bits and bobs eventually I'll have most stuff the way I want and won't lose momentum.

I removed the sub and amp because for me this rig needs to be able to haul the whole family and they were mounted in the back seat foot well. If I had wanted limited passenger space, I could have easily found just as good of a truck for cheaper in my area. Now I need to learn what a good rust preventative, weather resistant fix is for the 5 new holes I've pulled screws out of in the floor.




After that it was on to the passenger seat release lever. I'm not sure what the factory one was like, but I have the remnants of it that were still in my seat. It looked like an easy job to trace it onto some scrap metal I had laying around.




Well, on my third try I got one that worked. The first was too thick because the aluminum stock I used was a smidge thicker than the original piece. Once I dug deeper I found some steel that matched better and cut my edges too close to my holes and ruined it. Here's a picture of the final piece that makes the seat easy to fold forward for back seat access. It is much easier than the old piece that was broken off flush with the seat metal. Now I just need to ponder if there's an easy way to attach a grab handle or lanyard to it, and run it up the back of the seat a little so my kids can reach it from the back and let themselves out.

 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400/C6 92 K documented miles &1994 Bronco,XLT 85K original miles
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937 Posts
Ok, well, I got some work done today and made pretty much no progress. :D

So I took both door cards off and checked stuff out. The passenger door lock will now lock and unlock both if I wiggle the key but the drivers still only moves in the unlock direction from the key.

Question 1: Is the tailgate lock cylinder the same as the door cylinders? Can I go find cylinders from a van in the JY and have 3 that match?

Question 2: The ignition key fits in the door cylinders fine, but won't turn because it is a different profile. Is it possible to get door cylinders and pin them to work with my ignition key on a '79?

I'm going to need to get more of those little tabby things that look like bent wire in a wad of gum to hold the panels on. I verified that the passenger door needs a window regulator and the inside door handle mechanism. They are both broken.


Question 3: Should the window cranks stick out of the doors this much? They have a plastic washer to reduce friction between the crank and door card, but there's half an inch of clearance there. The PO said the door panels were from a different year truck, maybe that's why?


Question 4: This spring was between the door and the door card around the window regulator shaft on only the driver's side. What is it for and does it belong?


I tried to remove the bug deflector and bent the tip on my flat blade impact tip. I'm going to need a good supply of penetrating oil for some of these projects. :ROFLMAO: Also while I had the hood open I took a picture of the fan shroud and overflow tank and auxiliary and tertiary fuel filters.






Question 5: Aren't these older trucks not supposed to have an overflow? Is it better to have it despite that?

Yes but you won't find a new one. I got this idea from Hcodi (Look up his build from a year ago) Use a mid 90's F series overflow/washer reservoir, $40 on Amazon. I had a shop make a simple mounting bracket. Much cleaner and it doesen't look like it came from pep boys.
 

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1979 Ranger XLT 400m T18
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172 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Yes but you won't find a new one. I got this idea from Hcodi (Look up his build from a year ago) Use a mid 90's F series overflow/washer reservoir, $40 on Amazon. I had a shop make a simple mounting bracket. Much cleaner and it doesen't look like it came from pep boys.
Thanks, that looks good.
 

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1979 Ranger XLT 400m T18
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172 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Got some more stuff done. Yesterday I went and paid my money to apply for personalized plates and permanent tabs. I splurged extra to get the temp tag so I can legally drive it while they decide if my personalized plate choice is perverted, profane or otherwise unacceptable. So I moved my stuff over from my Explorer because this is going to be my "daily." If it proves reliable enough I will sell the Explorer in a month or so. I also filled some gaps I saw in my emergency/tool kit (the black pelican case) last time I used it.



I dug out my spare ball mount and hitch pin and put them in the receiver, but I couldn't herk the 2 5/16 ball loose so it looks like I'll have to buy a new (to me) ball and ball mount since my utility trailer and boat trailer both use that size.

I also grabbed a wrench and screwdriver and worked on taking off the broken bug guard. While I like the look, it is cracked in a couple of places and that bothers me so it had to go. My dad pointed out that there were bolts on the top, not just the slotted screws on the bottom last time he looked at it, so I was able to attack it with wrenches and make some more torque/progress. It's dirty back there, but there's just a few spots where the guard mounts rubbed through the paint.


 

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1979 Ranger XLT 400m T18
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172 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Well, got a couple more things done lately. My order from JBG arrived so I had a couple of parts to work with. I replaced the skull door lock knob with some supposedly OEM style black plastic ones. It looks way better. Then I replaced the passenger window regulator to get that window working. Good news is it was already fastened in with bolts (the drivers side is riveted), so I was able to combine the old bolts with the new nuts from the hardware kit and get it in relatively easily. It only took 20 minutes of work and cutting up my hands and arms on the door edges a bunch.

I also dug through my duplicate socket and wrench bins and put together a good toolkit to go in my truck bin where I keep things like a shovel, hatchet, jumper cables, spare oil, tire chains etc. This is the first vehicle I've had that is old enough I can reliably expect it doesn't have a mix of metric and standard fasteners to deal with, so that was nice.
 

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1979 Ranger XLT 400m T18
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172 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
The steering wheel has been slightly crooked since I baught the truck. After forgetting to work on it all the other times I was in there, I got out and adjusted it today.

I built a steering wheel puller out of a metal bracket I had that had a close enough bolt spacing by wacking off everything that didn't look like a steering wheel puller with the angle grinder. ;) After that it was just a matter of a couple of rounds of tightening the bolts with some random scraps and washers stuffed in for shims.




I turned the wheel a spline or two to the right and I may have adjusted too far, but I'll see next time I go for a drive.
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400/C6 92 K documented miles &1994 Bronco,XLT 85K original miles
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937 Posts
Got some more stuff done. Yesterday I went and paid my money to apply for personalized plates and permanent tabs. I splurged extra to get the temp tag so I can legally drive it while they decide if my personalized plate choice is perverted, profane or otherwise unacceptable. So I moved my stuff over from my Explorer because this is going to be my "daily." If it proves reliable enough I will sell the Explorer in a month or so. I also filled some gaps I saw in my emergency/tool kit (the black pelican case) last time I used it.



I dug out my spare ball mount and hitch pin and put them in the receiver, but I couldn't herk the 2 5/16 ball loose so it looks like I'll have to buy a new (to me) ball and ball mount since my utility trailer and boat trailer both use that size.

I also grabbed a wrench and screwdriver and worked on taking off the broken bug guard. While I like the look, it is cracked in a couple of places and that bothers me so it had to go. My dad pointed out that there were bolts on the top, not just the slotted screws on the bottom last time he looked at it, so I was able to attack it with wrenches and make some more torque/progress. It's dirty back there, but there's just a few spots where the guard mounts rubbed through the paint.



OK, so now you have to tell us what you requested for the plate....
 

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1979 Ranger XLT 400m T18
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172 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
OK, so now you have to tell us what you requested for the plate....
CWEGGA. It's been my gamer handle/gamertag and online name since pretty much the beginning of time. Since the cute wordplay things I could think of had already been taken along with my actual name and personalized plates are pretty narcissistic anyway I figured it would be appropriate.
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 12V P-Pump Cummins, ZF5, Dana 60 Front, Sterling 10.25 Rear
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421 Posts
It’s coming along nicely man! I like the slowly whittle away at the list until it’s all done approach. Makes it much more manageable and enjoyable as you get things done.
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400/C6 92 K documented miles &1994 Bronco,XLT 85K original miles
Joined
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937 Posts
CWEGGA. It's been my gamer handle/gamertag and online name since pretty much the beginning of time. Since the cute wordplay things I could think of had already been taken along with my actual name and personalized plates are pretty narcissistic anyway I figured it would be appropriate.
Ok, got it.
 
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