Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

41 - 48 of 48 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter #41
I am jumping ahead of myself. Here are some photos of what the engine looks like now.


And just a sidenote when you remove the overload leaf from your springs in sure you claim them prior to removing the center bolt. If not things will get exciting.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
I got the differential back together and under Crossbreed. The pinyon preload is set at 19” lb’s. That is at the top of the range.


This is the Grizzly locker and pinyon


The center section is back in. Torque is 65lb’s not 150lb’s when the caps are torqued that high they stretch and that is bad.


When I ordered the differential cover over a year ago it was to have bearing cap supports. When I opened the box was I surprised, to late now.


These are the disk breaks from James Duff. The breaks look good but the instructions leave much to be desired


I used a furniture dolly to move the diff under the truck it worked great.


And Walla it’s under the truck. Just need to fill the diff, hook up the breaks and bleed them.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Bronco Master
Joined
·
576 Posts
What are you doing for the ebrake on those disc brakes? I ran the El Dorado calipers on mine.

i started purchasing parts for my LS swap recently. I started with Autofab motor mounts and recently got the Edelbrock Pro 4 EFI standalone computer system. https://www.edelbrock.com/pro-flo-4-efi-ecu-engine-harness-kit-for-gen-iii-24x-ls-engines-35711.html Novak has all the parts to keep my T-18 trans for about $1200 minus the clutch itself. I just need to find a decent LQ4, LQ9, or LM7 engine and I‘ll start the swap. I’m hoping to find a decent used engine that doesn’t need rebuilding. I was planning on just redoing the stock harness and computer on the yard engine, but a buddy convinced me the Edelbrock setup would be easier and faster.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
686 Posts
I was planning on just redoing the stock harness and computer on the yard engine, but a buddy convinced me the Edelbrock setup would be easier and faster.
It sounds like you've already bought the Edelbrock setup, but I would give that some serious thought...

Having done an engine swap with an aftermarket ECU (MS3), I can tell you it's certainly not easier or faster than using a stock ECU. One of the most time consuming parts of the process is tuning cold start, idle, and part throttle cruise. These are all things that the OEMs spend thousands of hours getting perfect, and to me that's one of the really attractive things about an LS swap in a 4x4... having idle, off-idle and low end throttle response that's way more efficient and responsive than the 351.

Even if you're building a hot motor, tweaking the factory calibration is easier than starting from scratch. A guy on the Grassroots Motorsports forum recently did a Ford 5.0 with the FiTech EFI. After a summer of trying to get it to run right, he threw it in the trash and bought a carb. My swap will be running for three years this spring, and the cold start is still not really good enough for a street driver, but it's a track car so I just deal with it.

Just something to think about.

Congrats on getting these swaps going, I think it's a great choice for a Bronco, and it's in my plans if I can ever get a bunch of other stuff done.
 

·
Bronco Master
Joined
·
576 Posts
It sounds like you've already bought the Edelbrock setup, but I would give that some serious thought...

Having done an engine swap with an aftermarket ECU (MS3), I can tell you it's certainly not easier or faster than using a stock ECU. One of the most time consuming parts of the process is tuning cold start, idle, and part throttle cruise. These are all things that the OEMs spend thousands of hours getting perfect, and to me that's one of the really attractive things about an LS swap in a 4x4... having idle, off-idle and low end throttle response that's way more efficient and responsive than the 351.

Even if you're building a hot motor, tweaking the factory calibration is easier than starting from scratch. A guy on the Grassroots Motorsports forum recently did a Ford 5.0 with the FiTech EFI. After a summer of trying to get it to run right, he threw it in the trash and bought a carb. My swap will be running for three years this spring, and the cold start is still not really good enough for a street driver, but it's a track car so I just deal with it.

Just something to think about.

Congrats on getting these swaps going, I think it's a great choice for a Bronco, and it's in my plans if I can ever get a bunch of other stuff done.
Rodan,

Thanks for the recommendation. I fully agree with your statement about OEM’s spending the R&D to get it right for the masses vs a small company doing their own development. The Edelbrock system was a cyber Monday impulse buy based on the recommendation of my buddy who has done a few swaps. His buddy used the same Edelbrock kit on a 49 pickup project and is very pleased with it. Part of his recommendation was based on us living in a small town with no dyno tuning available without loading the rig on the trailer and driving 2 hours to Phoenix. The more I’m looking at it the more I’m leaning towards just using the OEM computer with someone’s reworked harness. The other issue in favor of OEM is emissions compliance. I live in a non emission county currently and the truck is ODB 1, so it would get tested on the rollers rather than plugged in if I ever had to smog it again, but the Edelbrock kit is not strictly emissions legal for something newer than 1967. I have 90 days to return the Edelbrock setup if I decide to use the factory ECM instead.

My other plan was to buy a newer L96 6.0 engine and buy GM’s standalone controller/harness for it, about $2800 for the engine and $1600 for the controller. I’m hesitant to want to deal with the VVT or drive by wire on the newer model engine, and the cost is double the LM7 or LQ4.

Looking at what is available for engines, I can get a complete 5.3 LM7 from 99-02 with 120-145K miles for $900 in Phoenix. Unless something else comes up that’s a great deal I’ll probably buy one of those this month. I’m looking for a 6.0, but the difference in power on my manual trans Bronco likely won’t make a significant difference, either engine will have 100 more HP and 100 Tq over my tired 302.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
686 Posts
I also have a two hour tow into Phoenix for dyno time, and it took me a year to get around to it. I thought I had done a decent job road tuning, and using logs from the track.... Nope. LOL In 3 hours on the dyno, the guy who actually knew what he was doing found 20hp. In a car that puts 136hp to the wheels... It was at that point that I realized the only tuning I'm ever doing again will be to get it running to take it to the dyno. :p

IMHO the easy button for the LS swaps is to find a truck where you can get a drop out w/ ECU, then pick up a modified harness for it. I'm not above modifying the harness (I did it on the race car), but it's tedious and time consuming. It's definitely worth the expense to buy a harness. The only good thing about doing it yourself is the experience will help with any potential troubleshooting down the road.

The bad thing is dealing with this... :LOL:


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
@BroncoAZ there is no E-break that was another $300. Since this is a toy I didn’t feel it was needed. When on the trail I have a set of chalks if I need to work on my rig.

Every thing @BroncoAZ and @Rodan are talking about is why I had to have someone else do this swap. Looking at the wiring on your bench made me cringe.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter #48
There are several people who encouraged me to do the LS. A friend here in Young put an LS in his Scout it came from a wreck 05 Silverado 1500 that had very low mileage. He purchased the entire vehicle and swapped everything from the donor vehicle in to his scout.

His vehicle is old enough it has no modern electronics such as ABS airbags or any of the other electronica that complicate modern vehicles. Even though our Broncos are older they still have some electronics that make the job complicated.

Unless you are building a specialty vehicle such as a race car, custom wiring may be needed. If you are not using a new motor a donor vehicle would be a good option. More modern vehicles come with automatic transmissions primarily. Finding a manual transmission may be more difficult. I myself prefer automatics for off roading.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 
41 - 48 of 48 Posts
Top